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I am letting it idle in the staging lanes once I get fairly close to doing the burn out. Which is still quite a lot of idling so the temps still heat up. The starting and stopping for 30-40 cars ahead seems to keep the temps up too. Only way I have found with so long staging lanes is to have the engine set up so it takes care of itself in terms of temperatures. At my weight and age no pushing the car for me. lol The one time I took my car I only got one pass in too. The lanes got so long just wasn't worth waiting another hour in the lanes trying to get another pass in.
Stock fan doesn't come on until 199.4* and then only 15%. At my launch I was at 136* manifold temp (IAT2) and 208* coolant. At the end of my pass 153* and 210*. And right before shutting down I was logging 15* of advance. Did get up to 18* advance in 4th prior to going into 5th.
That is certainly explains it then, I try very hard to keep the ECT to 150 +/- just prior to burnout... as a result of your elevated temps, there is certainly some timing pull (and loss of power) taking place.
Your observations of us needing to be able to engage the cooling fan are 100% spot on.... I have been trying to solve that riddle (without a tune) for a while now... to no avail.
Will higher octane gas reduce the timing pull, or is it all temperature based?
It is not totally temperature based. Temperature does play a big part as the tune file tables do pull timing as temps rise. But octane is a big factor too.
I have a before and after Torco test on a spread sheet if you care to see. Either post or PM your email and I'll send the two to you.
Hey guys quick question. I'm sure this question will show my absolutely ignorance on the subject but here goes...
I have the coolant, the hose, the funnel, and the Gspeed override switch. I'm 2% hesitant to pop off that piece on top because I wonder what if my car is properly vacuum filled and my opening that port will make it lose vacuum and get screwed up. Is this completely nonsensical?
Hey guys quick question. I'm sure this question will show my absolutely ignorance on the subject but here goes...
I have the coolant, the hose, the funnel, and the Gspeed override switch. I'm 2% hesitant to pop off that piece on top because I wonder what if my car is properly vacuum filled and my opening that port will make it lose vacuum and get screwed up. Is this completely nonsensical?
Thanks!
Best,
Gene
Yes it is complete nonsense. Vacuum fill is only to ensure the coolant gets through the system. You evacuate the system and atmospheric pressure forces the coolant into all the nooks and crannies of the intercooler system. No different then with the normal engine coolant system.
Hey guys quick question. I'm sure this question will show my absolutely ignorance on the subject but here goes...
I have the coolant, the hose, the funnel, and the Gspeed override switch. I'm 2% hesitant to pop off that piece on top because I wonder what if my car is properly vacuum filled and my opening that port will make it lose vacuum and get screwed up. Is this completely nonsensical?
Thanks!
Best,
Gene
I have connected my Sea-Doo's oil change vacuum tank to the 1" hose and sucked most of the air bubble in the innercooler tank out.....kind of hard to hold the hose and vacuum tank up under the hood but it works really fast.......
My my service adviser lent me this. Has anyone used one of these and would it work to achieve the goals of this thread?
thanks!
best,
Gene
It's just a regular radiator fill attachment. It will work just fine if you can create an airtight seal between the intercooler fill opening and the unit.
Remember what you are trying to do is create a vacuum in the intercooler system and then allow atmospheric pressure to fill the system. If you have a leak at the intercooler fill opening then you won't be able to create a suitable vacuum.
The tool isn't a positive displacement vacuum pump. It uses compressed air to speed up air flow past an orifice to create lower pressure, much like the sped up airflow across the top of an aircraft wing causes lower pressure then the bottom surface thereby creating lift
I'm confused and need some help. I see some guys are using a clear 1" hose and others are using a 1" hose with what looks like it has some braided stuff incorporated into the hose. Which hose do I need!?!?!?
I'm confused and need some help. I see some guys are using a clear 1" hose and others are using a 1" hose with what looks like it has some braided stuff incorporated into the hose. Which hose do I need!?!?!?
I had Home Depot cut me a 1 ft. length of clear 1 1/4 od x 1" id hose. Only used about 5". Pushed it onto my Flotool funnel.
Jacked the driver side of my car up a little so the fill was at the highest point. Pushed the hose onto my fill fitting using lubricant. Poured coolant in funnel then turned on my pump with my HP Tuner controls. Engine off. Took a few minutes while refilling funnel to get all the air out but worked like a charm.
You will only get your tank filled to the upper hose without vacuum but with my larger hx didn't feel that the little extra via vacuum would do much of anything to help cooling.
I had Home Depot cut me a 1 ft. length of clear 1 1/4 od x 1" id hose. Only used about 5". Pushed it onto my Flotool funnel.
Jacked the driver side of my car up a little so the fill was at the highest point. Pushed the hose onto my fill fitting using lubricant. Poured coolant in funnel then turned on my pump with my HP Tuner controls. Engine off. Took a few minutes while refilling funnel to get all the air out but worked like a charm.
You will only get your tank filled to the upper hose without vacuum but with my larger hx didn't feel that the little extra via vacuum would do much of anything to help cooling.
I did pretty much the same thing with my Granatelli tank. I used a longer hose though, maybe 1.5". In cold weather, the hose is pretty stiff and needed to be warmed in front of a heater to fit over the fitting. Turning the pump on with a manual switch would cause the coolant to rise in the tube almost all the way to the top. Using a funnel, after a few cycles, most of the air from the system was removed. This won't do anything to decrease the size of the bubble in the stock, plastic intercooler reservoir.
Before I put the Fasterprom tank, I connected my Sea-Doo's oil change vacuum tank to the 1" hose and sucked most of the air bubble in the innercooler tank out.....kind of hard to hold the hose and vacuum tank up under the hood but it works really fast.......
Yes it is complete nonsense. Vacuum fill is only to ensure the coolant gets through the system. You evacuate the system and atmospheric pressure forces the coolant into all the nooks and crannies of the intercooler system. No different then with the normal engine coolant system.
I swapped my blower and I was able to just refill the lines slowly. I didn't disturb anything. When disconnecting the lines at the blower. Kept them up and then reattached them to the new blower
and refilled as much as it would hold several times. All good!
This is the maximum amount of air you want in the intercooler reservoir.
This worked for me to get rid of my intermittent misfire on cylinder #8. Dealer mechanic used the new ZR1 bleed tool to get the air out which took raising the front end of the car about 2 ft to get the air in the reservoir moved toward the outlet so the vacuum could pull it out.
This is the maximum amount of air you want in the intercooler reservoir.
This worked for me to get rid of my intermittent misfire on cylinder #8. Dealer mechanic used the new ZR1 bleed tool to get the air out which took raising the front end of the car about 2 ft to get the air in the reservoir moved toward the outlet so the vacuum could pull it out.
Bill
You finally got rid of the misfire! Congratulations. That's been a problem for you for what seems like ages.
Bill, is that (two quarter size) level of coolant cold or hot?
I appreciate all the good info you are providing on intercooler bleeding!
I recently acquired 17, Z, M7 and will be vacuum bleeding later this week.
Hope my Mighty Vac is up to the task.
Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
This is the maximum amount of air you want in the intercooler reservoir.
This worked for me to get rid of my intermittent misfire on cylinder #8. Dealer mechanic used the new ZR1 bleed tool to get the air out which took raising the front end of the car about 2 ft to get the air in the reservoir moved toward the outlet so the vacuum could pull it out.
04-18-2017, 07:55 AM
