Finally talked to a Mobil 1 oil engineer
10-27-2016, 11:06 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Finally talked to a Mobil 1 oil engineer
This is what he said about full time use of 15-50 wt oil. " there is no downside to it's use
year round in the new corvettes." As a matter of fact he said the high levels of ZDDP
is simply and increased margin of anti wear protection for the engine. Yes you notice a minimal drop in mpg. As for shortening the life of the catalytic converters; it may but not eminent. They could last over 100,000 miles.
As for climate, he reminded me that 15-50 flows down to -10C. I live in Southern California. Not an issue. BTW my last C6 Z06 with its third forged motor had 107,000 miles with the ARH cats and they never failed. Sold the the car and have never had a call back about anything. Ran 15-50 in all three motors from start up. In not sure but I think I might run the 0-40 they use in the corvettes in Europe. Since he said it will be the domestic fill within the year. Oh, BTW all this crap about tight tolerances is just that crap. The mains, rods, end play, and piston to cylinder wall clearance are the same for any performance motor. If they were tighter, it would blow up! I'm Hope this info is helpful.
year round in the new corvettes." As a matter of fact he said the high levels of ZDDP
is simply and increased margin of anti wear protection for the engine. Yes you notice a minimal drop in mpg. As for shortening the life of the catalytic converters; it may but not eminent. They could last over 100,000 miles.
As for climate, he reminded me that 15-50 flows down to -10C. I live in Southern California. Not an issue. BTW my last C6 Z06 with its third forged motor had 107,000 miles with the ARH cats and they never failed. Sold the the car and have never had a call back about anything. Ran 15-50 in all three motors from start up. In not sure but I think I might run the 0-40 they use in the corvettes in Europe. Since he said it will be the domestic fill within the year. Oh, BTW all this crap about tight tolerances is just that crap. The mains, rods, end play, and piston to cylinder wall clearance are the same for any performance motor. If they were tighter, it would blow up! I'm Hope this info is helpful.
Last edited by andreas g.; 10-27-2016 at 11:22 PM.
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Popular Reply
10-28-2016, 07:55 AM
Appreciate the post, however the one thing I was looking for, was the engineers comments on running oil temps at 280-300 on track for extended periods of time. If you noticed, many of the track rats who bought the car in 15, are no longer actively tracking the car. Either they have made it street only after many problems or, had a "moment" on track and went ka~boom. By all means, if you are able to talk with him again, please do ask. With all that said (short term) it will be very interesting to see what these high oil temps do to/for engine longevity( long term)
FWIW, I'm at 96 track hours on my motor so I figure I got my money's worth and it's still under warranty.
10-27-2016, 11:25 PM
#2
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Interesting. I've been seriously looking at going 0W-40. Seems to be a better all around combination.
10-27-2016, 11:29 PM
#3
Just like I said andreas. Nice to hear it from the horses mouth.
10-27-2016, 11:52 PM
#4
Appreciate the post, however the one thing I was looking for, was the engineers comments on running oil temps at 280-300 on track for extended periods of time. If you noticed, many of the track rats who bought the car in 15, are no longer actively tracking the car. Either they have made it street only after many problems or, had a "moment" on track and went ka~boom. By all means, if you are able to talk with him again, please do ask. With all that said (short term) it will be very interesting to see what these high oil temps do to/for engine longevity( long term)
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Dabigsnake (03-16-2017)
10-28-2016, 07:55 AM
#5
Appreciate the post, however the one thing I was looking for, was the engineers comments on running oil temps at 280-300 on track for extended periods of time. If you noticed, many of the track rats who bought the car in 15, are no longer actively tracking the car. Either they have made it street only after many problems or, had a "moment" on track and went ka~boom. By all means, if you are able to talk with him again, please do ask. With all that said (short term) it will be very interesting to see what these high oil temps do to/for engine longevity( long term)
FWIW, I'm at 96 track hours on my motor so I figure I got my money's worth and it's still under warranty.
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10-28-2016, 10:46 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
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Jeremy (lawwdogg) is the only person I know of who had a motor replaced, and it was very early on, along with a rear end replacement too as I recall. He no longer owns his car but is the only one I can think would remotely fit this wide accusation.
10-28-2016, 11:16 AM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Another point the engineer said was about oil viscosity. 15-50 hits its high number at around 200 degrees oil temp. It doesn't get any thicker as oil temps climb. Conversely, oil temps below 200 the viscosity is proportionally less. It's a sliding scale. Oil is only as thick as it needs to be. Temp related
10-28-2016, 11:53 AM
#8
Team Owner
10-28-2016, 12:29 PM
#9
Race Director
thanks for info op
i was told by my friend's engine builder to run 10W40 M1 in my LS3 C6 so i did. that's all he uses in non race applications. haven't spoken to him in regards to my new car yet. still have 200 miles to go to 500!!
i was told by my friend's engine builder to run 10W40 M1 in my LS3 C6 so i did. that's all he uses in non race applications. haven't spoken to him in regards to my new car yet. still have 200 miles to go to 500!!
Last edited by 23/C8Z; 10-28-2016 at 12:29 PM.
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10-28-2016, 01:32 PM
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Yep, I've been thinking about using 10W40 once I run out of the bunch of 10W30 I bought some time ago during a great black Friday sale. I already use that in my 383 stroker C4, it will make things easier.
10-28-2016, 02:26 PM
#13
Race Director
it's thin. and mobil 1 runs even thinner than conventional oils of same weight (just my opinion from visual observations, pour some out and watch).
ideally you want the heaviest oil that still runs through the engine without stressing anything. for lubricity.
think of it like this. baby oil is slick but Vaseline makes things much slicker (thin vs thick)
ideally you want the heaviest oil that still runs through the engine without stressing anything. for lubricity.
think of it like this. baby oil is slick but Vaseline makes things much slicker (thin vs thick)
10-28-2016, 03:00 PM
#14
Safety Car
Appreciate the post, however the one thing I was looking for, was the engineers comments on running oil temps at 280-300 on track for extended periods of time. If you noticed, many of the track rats who bought the car in 15, are no longer actively tracking the car. Either they have made it street only after many problems or, had a "moment" on track and went ka~boom. By all means, if you are able to talk with him again, please do ask. With all that said (short term) it will be very interesting to see what these high oil temps do to/for engine longevity( long term)
If GM would approve Motul's 60 weight 300V oil that's what I'd run.
10-28-2016, 04:00 PM
#15
Yeah, because we should just take every statement without facts at face value as long as it's negative.
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10-28-2016, 06:36 PM
#16
Moderator
10-28-2016, 07:16 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Well I heard from a GM engineer and great friend yesterday that after GM completely converts the Corvette to mid-engine, the following generation will go back to front engine with round tail lights.
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phantasms (10-28-2016)
10-28-2016, 10:31 PM
#18
Like some others, I too wondered if I really should be running 5W30 in my '016 Z06 or I could bump the weight up a tad. I don't track the car at all, never will....just use it as a fun driver, a car I drive as often as the weather will allow me to. Not a "garage queen", but close to it! But, I have a feeling I'm not the only nut in the crowd! Anyway, my previous couple of cars and both my Mercedes require Mobil One 0W40. I have heard comments on the Forum that this is the European Spec for the C7 Z06. I tried every angle to find this on GOOGLE....no good. Does anyone know for sure if this is indeed the European Spec? My only reason for wanting to switch is I like the idea of the little more protection a 40 weight can provide in the summer, but in today's world that may be a little old fashion. Thanks for any help[......
10-29-2016, 02:57 AM
#19
Melting Slicks
I have heard the European spec has a different additive package to allow longer drain intervals. People speculate the additives will cause more carbon deposits.
10-29-2016, 07:57 AM
#20
I'm running 15/50 all the time. Just gotta take some time to get some temp in the oil.
My race car has a STRICT procedure: warm the car until water temp gets up, shut'er down and let it heat soak the entire engine (like 30-45 mins) start up again and sit until oil temp comes up to spec. If oil not >150°, no deal.
On my Z, idle until I see the oil temp coming up. (the bearing tolerances are MUCH greater). If I ran it for a daily driver, I'd put an oil heater patch on the tank. Makes a world of difference. Have a little Wolverine on the race car and it's awesome...cuts the procedure time down a lot, as the oil's warm-ish at startup if plugged in night before.
Before the chatter starts about, "Oh, it's not a race car...", the warmer is <$100, not permanent and can be installed in minutes. Heck, I think I just talked myself into putting one on Z.
My race car has a STRICT procedure: warm the car until water temp gets up, shut'er down and let it heat soak the entire engine (like 30-45 mins) start up again and sit until oil temp comes up to spec. If oil not >150°, no deal.
On my Z, idle until I see the oil temp coming up. (the bearing tolerances are MUCH greater). If I ran it for a daily driver, I'd put an oil heater patch on the tank. Makes a world of difference. Have a little Wolverine on the race car and it's awesome...cuts the procedure time down a lot, as the oil's warm-ish at startup if plugged in night before.
Before the chatter starts about, "Oh, it's not a race car...", the warmer is <$100, not permanent and can be installed in minutes. Heck, I think I just talked myself into putting one on Z.