Ramps vs lift
11-14-2016, 09:54 PM
#21
What are you going to post next? A black 1990 ZR-1 and 2002 Electron Blue Z06?
11-14-2016, 10:21 PM
#22
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
And Marie below, in all her glory:
Poor girl is all torn apart right now, but getting some much needed love. Neglected her a bit when I bought the C7. I love her the most, I think.
11-15-2016, 11:49 AM
#23
Instructor
How much did these run you? This would be great I assume for winter, and getting the tires off the ground...I notice you are right beside an outside wall in your garage. Is it simply a matter of aligning it on the ground before you drive in, or do you squeeze in between the outside wall and your car to position the quick jack?
11-15-2016, 12:35 PM
#25
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
How much did these run you? This would be great I assume for winter, and getting the tires off the ground...I notice you are right beside an outside wall in your garage. Is it simply a matter of aligning it on the ground before you drive in, or do you squeeze in between the outside wall and your car to position the quick jack?
I have about 3 feet of space on the other side, you just can't see it from the pics.
There are two ways to line it up before pulling in.
1) Have each lift section NOT under the car, but to the side. Then you drive in, and push each section underneath.
2) Have each lift section under the car. YOU DO NOT DRIVE ON TOP OF THEM, but rather over them. That is, the tires are NOT to DRIVE ON the lift itself. So the lift pieces are under the car near the middle and you drive over them but not on them, then you pull each lift under the lifting points.
There are two handy bars that they give you that can be used to quickly attach to the sections and can pull or push the lift into position once the car is situated.
11-15-2016, 12:39 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
Years ago before I had a full lift I had this BendPak low-rise lift in my shop. I found it great for most everything, and it looks substantially stronger than the ones in this thread.
11-15-2016, 07:27 PM
#27
Racer
I hear you. I thought the same when I looked at pictures before I purchased it. Few things to note:
- I am not sure if you know this, but there are two full sections of the lift. In the picture, you can't see the section holding up the other side of the car.
- The unit has locking bars on each section. When engaged, the hydraulics are no longer being used to support the car. In fact, you can unplug the entire unit and disconnect the hoses if you really wanted.
- The unit is rated to 5000lbs
- It looks and is far more sturdier in person than pictures show
- I am very, very concerned about safety under my car. The last thing I want is to kill myself under my Corvette. I used to spend alot of time manipulating jack stands and jacks with back-ups and even back-ups to my back-ups prior to getting this lift. I would never go under a car I did not feel safe under. Not ever.
- I conducted a few non-scientific tests. I do not endorse one tries this, but I did because I simply had to know: With the wheels on the car, I attempted to push the car off the lift. I tried from both sides, and from the front and rear. I was fully prepared for the car to fall off the lift and cause damage. The car was rock solid on the lift and would not budge, and I pushed very hard. The lift did not shift nor even move. I could not push it off. I then jacked the car up on one side completely off of one side of the lift, thereby transferring weight to the remaining side of the lift. I wanted to see if I could reach a breaking point. No matter how high I jacked the car on one side, the QUICKJACK side that was taking the weight did not budge, nor give, nor creak, nor anything. I don't know how much weight was transferred, but the car was significantly higher on the jacking side.
For me, it is far, far safer than the alternative of jack stands and jacks. Also, if I really feel like it I can still back it up with those things. In fact, I was doing so in one of my pictures. Not because I didn't feel safe, but just because I could.
- I am not sure if you know this, but there are two full sections of the lift. In the picture, you can't see the section holding up the other side of the car.
- The unit has locking bars on each section. When engaged, the hydraulics are no longer being used to support the car. In fact, you can unplug the entire unit and disconnect the hoses if you really wanted.
- The unit is rated to 5000lbs
- It looks and is far more sturdier in person than pictures show
- I am very, very concerned about safety under my car. The last thing I want is to kill myself under my Corvette. I used to spend alot of time manipulating jack stands and jacks with back-ups and even back-ups to my back-ups prior to getting this lift. I would never go under a car I did not feel safe under. Not ever.
- I conducted a few non-scientific tests. I do not endorse one tries this, but I did because I simply had to know: With the wheels on the car, I attempted to push the car off the lift. I tried from both sides, and from the front and rear. I was fully prepared for the car to fall off the lift and cause damage. The car was rock solid on the lift and would not budge, and I pushed very hard. The lift did not shift nor even move. I could not push it off. I then jacked the car up on one side completely off of one side of the lift, thereby transferring weight to the remaining side of the lift. I wanted to see if I could reach a breaking point. No matter how high I jacked the car on one side, the QUICKJACK side that was taking the weight did not budge, nor give, nor creak, nor anything. I don't know how much weight was transferred, but the car was significantly higher on the jacking side.
For me, it is far, far safer than the alternative of jack stands and jacks. Also, if I really feel like it I can still back it up with those things. In fact, I was doing so in one of my pictures. Not because I didn't feel safe, but just because I could.
Last edited by Harris; 11-15-2016 at 07:28 PM.
11-15-2016, 09:55 PM
#28
Beautiful collection you have there, I hope to join the party next year!
11-15-2016, 09:58 PM
#29
$1265 shipped with the Corvette Forum discount.
I have about 3 feet of space on the other side, you just can't see it from the pics.
There are two ways to line it up before pulling in.
1) Have each lift section NOT under the car, but to the side. Then you drive in, and push each section underneath.
2) Have each lift section under the car. YOU DO NOT DRIVE ON TOP OF THEM, but rather over them. That is, the tires are NOT to DRIVE ON the lift itself. So the lift pieces are under the car near the middle and you drive over them but not on them, then you pull each lift under the lifting points.
There are two handy bars that they give you that can be used to quickly attach to the sections and can pull or push the lift into position once the car is situated.
I have about 3 feet of space on the other side, you just can't see it from the pics.
There are two ways to line it up before pulling in.
1) Have each lift section NOT under the car, but to the side. Then you drive in, and push each section underneath.
2) Have each lift section under the car. YOU DO NOT DRIVE ON TOP OF THEM, but rather over them. That is, the tires are NOT to DRIVE ON the lift itself. So the lift pieces are under the car near the middle and you drive over them but not on them, then you pull each lift under the lifting points.
There are two handy bars that they give you that can be used to quickly attach to the sections and can pull or push the lift into position once the car is situated.
11-15-2016, 09:59 PM
#30
11-16-2016, 05:49 PM
#32
$1265 shipped with the Corvette Forum discount.
I have about 3 feet of space on the other side, you just can't see it from the pics.
There are two ways to line it up before pulling in.
1) Have each lift section NOT under the car, but to the side. Then you drive in, and push each section underneath.
2) Have each lift section under the car. YOU DO NOT DRIVE ON TOP OF THEM, but rather over them. That is, the tires are NOT to DRIVE ON the lift itself. So the lift pieces are under the car near the middle and you drive over them but not on them, then you pull each lift under the lifting points.
There are two handy bars that they give you that can be used to quickly attach to the sections and can pull or push the lift into position once the car is situated.
I have about 3 feet of space on the other side, you just can't see it from the pics.
There are two ways to line it up before pulling in.
1) Have each lift section NOT under the car, but to the side. Then you drive in, and push each section underneath.
2) Have each lift section under the car. YOU DO NOT DRIVE ON TOP OF THEM, but rather over them. That is, the tires are NOT to DRIVE ON the lift itself. So the lift pieces are under the car near the middle and you drive over them but not on them, then you pull each lift under the lifting points.
There are two handy bars that they give you that can be used to quickly attach to the sections and can pull or push the lift into position once the car is situated.
I can only add that when I bought mine at Carlisle and after talking to the salesman I decided on the 7000 to allow me to also lift my 1/2 ton 4X4 for a few bucks more.
11-16-2016, 09:29 PM
#34
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
- Installed a rear tow hook, with alot of banging around of mufflers and tail pipes
- Removed and inspected the rotors
- Replaced brake pads on all four corners
- Changed the oil
- Installed new Bilstein shocks on all four corners
- Removed entire front fascia
- Installed a splitter reinforcement brace
- Drilled into the frame to install a front tow hook
- Cleaned various areas of the undercarriage
- Jacked the suspension up on all four corners
I still need to finish installing the front tow hook, run my ducting for the brakes and a few other odds and ends. So it will sit up there nice and safe for another week or two. Then another Vette will go on it for other work I intend to do.
The car has not moved, budged, creaked or swayed, other than my movements of the suspension. It sits exactly the way I put it when I raised it up and locked it into place two weeks ago.
You getting all of this done on your "race ramps"? Good luck.
11-17-2016, 09:45 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Mitch is trolling. I am done feeding him. He thinks you can change brakes on race ramps. Or he has never turned a wrench. Likely doesn't even own a Corvette either. Trolling me any way you cut it. No facts. No evidence. Just troll-talk.
I'm happy to answer any legitimate questions if anyone is actually interested though, which I thought was the point of this thread. Don't even know why people bother trying to help on here anymore.
With the quickjack, you can still back-up the entire operation with jack-stands and a jack if you really feel like it. The primary point is that you can raise the car and get all four wheels off and keep it that way indefinitely. And this is done in rapid fashion. Slide ramps, push button. 30 seconds later car is lifted. Makes things a **** ton easier to do alot of things. If you are still afraid to crawl under the car after the 5000lb rated locking bars are engaged, then you can easily slide some jack stands under it and a jack as well in about 5 seconds.
The following users liked this post:
Mitch84 (11-17-2016)
11-18-2016, 06:37 AM
#39
Mitch is trolling. I am done feeding him. He thinks you can change brakes on race ramps. Or he has never turned a wrench. Likely doesn't even own a Corvette either. Trolling me any way you cut it. No facts. No evidence. Just troll-talk.
I'm happy to answer any legitimate questions if anyone is actually interested though, which I thought was the point of this thread. Don't even know why people bother trying to help on here anymore.
With the quickjack, you can still back-up the entire operation with jack-stands and a jack if you really feel like it. The primary point is that you can raise the car and get all four wheels off and keep it that way indefinitely. And this is done in rapid fashion. Slide ramps, push button. 30 seconds later car is lifted. Makes things a **** ton easier to do alot of things. If you are still afraid to crawl under the car after the 5000lb rated locking bars are engaged, then you can easily slide some jack stands under it and a jack as well in about 5 seconds.
I'm happy to answer any legitimate questions if anyone is actually interested though, which I thought was the point of this thread. Don't even know why people bother trying to help on here anymore.
With the quickjack, you can still back-up the entire operation with jack-stands and a jack if you really feel like it. The primary point is that you can raise the car and get all four wheels off and keep it that way indefinitely. And this is done in rapid fashion. Slide ramps, push button. 30 seconds later car is lifted. Makes things a **** ton easier to do alot of things. If you are still afraid to crawl under the car after the 5000lb rated locking bars are engaged, then you can easily slide some jack stands under it and a jack as well in about 5 seconds.
Question: where is the load when the car is resting? I don't quite get the locking bar (well I get it, but the load is not resting on it right?)
Does the ground need to be perfectly flat?
Will this scratch an epoxy floor coating?
11-18-2016, 10:39 AM
#40
Instructor
Maybe I am wrong but it seems to me the hydraulics in that quick lift could fail at any time then you would be crushed to death. Old school jacks will not fail unless the wielding gives out. Maybe I am wrong. Correct me if I am.