Shaka

Heck, I was getting all excited. I thought it was an aerodynamic question. Resume normal navigation.OUT.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

When you are ready to lower the car, how do you know that the hydraulics are still functional before you release the locking bar?

Also, can the locking bar be engaged in a position other than the full height?

Mordeth

You don't release the locking bar manually. You engage the hydraulics to lift the car off of the locking bar. There is a metal piece that folds out of the way and then you can lower the car past the locking bar points. So it is a trivial matter to test the hydraulics both up and down before releasing the locking bar. Put it a different way, you can raise and lower the car higher than the locking bar to test it, with the locking bar engaged. The locking bar simply stops the lift from lowering the car past a certain point.

There are two positions for the locking bar. One is at full height (as pictured) and the second is about half of the height pictured. You could also stop the lift at any point in the raise and let the hydraulics hold it if you really wanted. If I were to do that, and I haven't seen the need to, I would have a jack underneath or jack stands as a backup.


The load is dispersed from the lift points (4), through the lift and to the ground. The locking bar simply prevents the lift from going any lower and does carry some load. Once engaged, the lift simply cannot be lowered as long as the overall load threshold is not significantly overwhelmed. From my own testing, I am guessing it is many thousands of pounds more than what it is rated.


I believe the max lateral slope is 3 degrees and max longitudinal slope is 4 degrees. So a slight slope is OK. I would not raise any car by any means on a slope much more than that.

I doubt it. It has wheels on one end and can be rolled around. When up in the air, if you add up the total surface area of the bottom frames which is the contact patch, for me it adds up to more than the surface area of four tires.

You are wrong, and I have already told you this in multiple posts. Please read what I have already written. THE HYDRAULICS ARE NOT USED TO HOLD THE CAR IN PLACE. The locking bar is. You are not under the car during operation (raising and lowering) of the lift. Do you comprehend this simple thing? Stop trolling me, it is annoying.

Mitch84

I understand friend, but don't be so hateful and demanding! I simply disagreed and see this lift as dangerous. We are all on this forum to agree, disagree and learn however, after reading more, it appears this is a good solid and safe lift so thanks for clarifying buddy. Enjoy your lift.

Mordeth

Fair enough. I apologize. It just seems like I am repeating myself. I do admit that the lift looks flimsy in pictures. If I just saw those pictures and knew nothing else I would also question how safe it was. It doesn't appear to inspire confidence. All I can do is report that in person it looks and is much stronger and report my own experience with it. Each piece is quite heavy. I have not weighed them, but they are at least 90-100lbs and feel very sturdy and well built. When I move the frames I need to use the separate handle bars. Nothing is hollow. It is all solid.

Larry M

Saw this the other day, it might be safe to say it will meet its rated weight

Good video, they look a bit less flimsy in this video

Mordeth

Those are pretty good videos Larry. They show the lift pretty well. For someone without alot of room and who doesn't want to deal with a giant 4 post or scissor, I really feel this lift is a good, safe alternative. Money was no object for me. I picked the lift I felt was best for my purposes. One of my Vettes is still sitting on it as I type. I am up early getting ready to crawl underneath her. Gotta wait another hour or so I don't wake the house with all the banging and clanking I am about to create. Snow is coming on Sunday, and I hate having to fire up the loud jet engine salamander heater.

Mitch84

Nice Vid, I'm gonna buy one.

any4xx

Judging from previous pictures here it LOOKS LIKE there is enough room on the Quick Jacks to remove the differential and transmission from a C5 when on the platforms at full-lift.

Can someone confirm that is or is not the case please?

0Fred@ReverseLogic

In addition to clearance I would think you would have to be concerned with shifting the center of gravity when changing out major components.

Mitch84

I agree with Fred, it's still dangerous when doing hard wrenching. Race Ramps offer way better stability when hard wrenching plus I like Fred. Race Ramps is a very viable and good product ... Thanks Fred.

Mordeth

I would think so. If there are any pictures you want to see let me know. My C6 is on it right now.

Mordeth

Why do you continue to say it is dangerous? Have you yourself tested this lift? I have. I have my car on it RIGHT NOW. The car does not move WHAT-SO-EVER when hard wrenching. I have literally attempted to push the car off the lift and it doesn't move. What is hard to understand about this? It is disingenuous of you to say what you are saying when you have never used this equipment. Yes we all have the right to our opinion, but yours is an uneducated, misleading one.

Mitch84

It's very simple amigo, I'm not a Shill, like you! Why are you so angry? I don't agree with you so you are crying now? I gave my opinion that it's a viable product but also expressed serious concerns over safety. Race Ramps cannot fail but Hydraulics can! My advice is stop shilling for Quick Jack because I would not be surprised if you were a paid Shill for Quick Jack. Have a good day my friend.

Dfwz06

Dude, I don't own either. I'm trying to decide on the lift or not. The ramps don't interest me at all. What I can say is that you are annoying to read. You keep saying things about this lift, yet don't own one. I can see where Mordeth is coming from. You spun. Like you own stock in race ramps.

Mordeth

I have absolutely zero affiliation with Quickjack. None. Not one iota. Not in any way, shape or form. I purchased it on my own and paid full price, like everyone else. Got it? You don't even own a Corvette and are here wasting people's time with your nonsensical, uneducated, misleading statements. You are the very definition of a troll. Go away. No one is interested in what you have to say.

Mitch84

You are in error. I own Race Ramps, and proud of the product. Fred is a stand up guy! I simply gave my 2 cents worth that I think it's a little dangerous, nothing more! Whatever you decide, good luck friend.

Mitch84

And you are a Racist by calling me troll, which I am not. It's none of your business but I own two older Corvettes in my Garage now. Honestly, you seem angry like maybe you voted for Hillary? The bottom line, I gave my 2 cents what think so take it for what it's worth and please leave me alone. Have a nice weekend friend.

Mordeth

I have no idea what you are talking about. You are embarrassing your friend "Fred". I am done with you for good.

Larry M

The race ramps do look awesome, but I have a few issues
1) can't do any suspension, brake, or tire work
2) $2k for plastic, seems ridiculous when Rhino ramps are 1/40th to 1/60th the price.
$300 absolutely
$500 ehh maybe, it does make things easier over standard Rhino Ramps
$2000 lol what? Is there a decimal place issue?