shakeydog

Since you are unable to comprehend what happened own your own, let me try to explain it to you. They were unable to support the weight. They were both SUV rated heavy duty ramps. If memory serves me correct both were 5000 lbs rated. The first set were not mine, the owner said he bought them at autozone. I bought the second set at O'Reilly auto. The vehicle on both sets of ramps was a 1996 chevy 1/2 ton pickup, regular cab, short bed, V8, and auto. Well below rated capacity. Bought a set of Rhino ramps after that and no problems. As I said earlier, lucky for you you weren't under them. Hope that clears it up for you. And good luck on your weatherman job.

shakeydog

[QUOTE=Fred@ReverseLogic;1593494434]When you are ready to lower the car, how do you know that the hydraulics are still functional before you release the locking bar? You will not be able to release the safety catches until you lift the car up a small amount. That would show you that the hydraulics are functional. Of course your low profile ramps would be better for loading a low vehicle onto a flatbed towtruck or loading onto a trailer. Not saying your ramps will not work for service work because they will. How ever some of your high end sets are on the same price point as some hydraulic lifts. And when at the same price point, the lifts do have some nice features, such as being EZ to remove all wheels at once and doing suspension and brake work. No hard feelings just stating the obvious.

tracer3030

Call Quick jack they have a black friday deal! 1-888-262-3880 Just ordered one

Mitch84

How do you like it so far? How are the welds?

tracer3030

Just ordered it today so when it comes Ill give some feed back. For me it will work great I have a 4 post hoist for the big stuff. I did get the 3500 and the DC pump so I can use it anywhere. Its made by or for bend pak a big hoist seller

Mitch84

Cool so let us know .....

Mordeth

It is a little bit of a pain to assemble, but not too difficult. Get yourself 3 quarts of Dexron III ATF. You will need it.

And be sure to bleed it. You have to raise and lower it about half way a few times at first to get the fluid through the lines, then bleed at the bleed screws. Also, it will be jerky at first with no load on it - this is normal. The instructions are pretty straight forward. I ran into a few hitches but it all worked out.

CGZO6

How good is the deal? I might have to call from Afghanistan.

Dfwz06

Saw a commercial last light for $100 off

diverman

Yes

BAAD LS2

Is there enough room under the car on this thing to do long tube headers?

Larry M

I think I'm going to order the QuickJack this month, are there any other alternatives I should consider? My garage is a small 1 car, so space is an extreme premium.

If anyone is aware, would I be able to service the fuel line on a 2002 Trans Am (it runs alongside the drive side frame rail)

Mordeth

For the price, safety, space considerations and convenience, I wasn't able to find a better alternative.

As far as the fuel line work, there is a small amount of left-right adjustment available before you lift the car. It will ultimately be determined by the jacking points and the contact point of the rubber blocks they give you. The rubber blocks sit in a cradle on top of the unit, and can be moved to the inner side, allowing you to pull the unit out a small amount. As long as the rubber block makes full contact with the jacking point, you can lift the car. On my Vette, the unit extends under the car 9.5 inches from the edge of the side skirt. 7.5 inches from the outside edge of the rocker.

So I would think 10 inches of unusable space would be worse case scenario. Again, will depend on the jacking point.

jeffinsd

Really sturdy- easy to assemble and make work. Stows away nicely under the car. I repeated the thing the guy did on the video and TRIED to shake the car and it just doesn't budge. It's not balanced on top of the lift it's sitting on the jack points, just where you'd put the pucks. No doubt in my mind you could do just about anything to it. Easily as strong as jack stands.

I think Mitch is just having you all on - or bored out of his mind and looking for a dust up. It's easy to be aggravating when you don't have to face actual people to do it. Respect isn't very interesting but makes things work better. How about a little more of it, ok Mitch? Offer information when you have it, and keep mum when you don't.

nvydvr

This is my first Corvette so this may be a silly question but... does the jack just seat on the frame or do you have to use some pucks? Do they make specifically designed ramps for individual cars or are they generic jacks that work on all cars? Thanks for the help.

Mordeth

Not a stupid question at all. I had the exact same question before I bought mine. As Jeff said above, it lifts at the jacking points.

It does not lift along the whole frame of the car, although it looks that way in pics. What happens is that they supply you with these rectangular, rubber blocks. There are a few sizes. They sit on top of the lift at 4 separate locations and can be moved around. These are the lift points.

So on a Vette, due to the fact that it is low and may have side skirts, you can also use jacking pucks. Using the pucks also makes sure that the rubber blocks don't touch the rockers. So the procedure is to install the pucks on the car, slide the lift under the car, then place the supplied rubber blocks on top of the lift and directly under where the pucks are. So basically the rubber blocks will lift exactly where the pucks are, onto the pucks. It can be done without the pucks as well if your car has enough room at the jacking points.

As far as I know, the ramps are generic and will likely work on most cars. They are rated according to weight. I have the 5000lb rated unit but they also make a 7000lb rated unit with an adapter for SUVs. I've used my lift on my Benz, both my Vettes (C6 and C7), my wife's Acura and my son's Nissan. All with no problem. Just locate the jacking points on the car, and arrange the rubber blocks to be below those points. I've used it with and without pucks.

Larry M

Any adapters needed for pinch welds?

0Fred@ReverseLogic

There are two kinds of pinch welds. American and Japanese cars typically have reinforced pinch welds. For these cars you lift the car directly on the pinch weld. Pinch welds on European cars (like Fiat or Audi) typically do not have reinforced pinch welds. The lift point on these cars is on the inboard side of the pinch weld.

If you are lucky enough to get an emergency scissors jack with your car, you can confirm the type of pinch weld you have by observing the way the vehicle jack engages with the pinch weld. For cars with a reinforced pinch weld, the jack will not have a very deep slot. For European cars, the jack will usually have a deep slot that straddles the pinch weld.

Using the wrong pinch weld adapter can either fold over the pinch weld, or dent the body on either side of the pinch weld.

peacekeeper

Kwik Lift


IMG 6224

Mordeth

Depending on the width of the pinch weld, you can purchase an adapter that can go over it, and serve as the jacking point. Search google for: FIGS JACK JAW Frame Rail Armor

I think this one is good for up to 7mm.