badhabit_wb

Gene I didn't take any pictures but if you'd like I can take some of the parts I was talking about and email them to you. You can pm your email address. I can also post them if others think it would help.

Herman

thebishman

Very simple question, but has anyone had a really hard time getting the OEM unit to un-clip from the holder? I have pushed the two damn clips at the top up as hard as I can, but when I go to try and rotate the unit out at the top the clips always seem to be still holding it in. Hence I can't get the unit out of the holder.

Granted I had not removed the wheel or the inboard retainers but I had plenty of room to get my left arm/hand up to the unit. Guess I'll take the wheel off this weekend and try again, unless someone knows a really easy way to pop that damn thing out of the holder.

Bish

Bullet Tooth

I had a hard time with it at first. Then I stuck a really small and short screwdriver in at the bottom of the stock controller and very gently pried it up while pushing up on the tabs and on the stock unit. It came out very easily.

Due to my issues, I have taken the stock unit out 3 or 4 times now and it is very easy when I do it like this.

badhabit_wb

Take the bottom bolt out of the holder and also move the relay, or whatever it it, that's there and you can just lift the whole thing out and see where the clips are. Once it's out it's really easy.
It only takes a few seconds to get it out that way. RikHek posted instructions and so did someone else.

AmmoVet

Unclip the wire bundle that is blocking the unit by pulling on it til It releases, it is designed to slide on but not off, will come off if pulled hard enough. To remove the stock controller the two screw driver idea works the best for me and I've done two different cars now. One very long fat blade to push up on the top taps and a smaller thin bladed one to pry the bottom side nearest you. I wedge it in there and then work the two tabs with the other screwdriver. I go into the side not the bottom but try Either one to see what works for you. I've got big hands but this method did work for me twice.

phantasms

Thanks! Gene@Leeds.io

Best,
Gene

badhabit_wb

Just sent them.

schaibaa

The holder has a bendy retainer clip at the top and solid tabs at the bottom. I just slide something behind it to add some outward pressure then use my finger to push on the top tab. The top clip has a tab that is designed to be pushed on to release the controller. It will rotate from the top leaving the bottom in place and then it will be free.

The top top clip is sort of T shaped and youboress on the top side of the T.

fmcokc

No, I do not. Please teach me.

dvandentop

having a hell of a time getting any serial port to work with this and i am a computer tech LOL

I flashed the new firmware ok but then after that cannot connect the actual tuning software


i did get wifi to connect but doesnt seem to do anything when i show connect keeps saying it is going to connect and shows other wifi zone.

did anyone have to change baud rate parity for the com port? initially it told me com 17 and i tried but no luck. will try to find new wifi download somewhere mentioned earlier in thread.

badhabit_wb

It works best with 57600 baud rate. Make sure the driver is installed and look in device manager to see which com port. Once you change it you have to close the program, disconnect the device, and then reconnect and open the program. It will work fine then.

Herman

dvandentop

I was using a Windows Vista laptop driver was all ok. Changed the ,,57600 toI9600 since isn't listed on my computer for a port speed. Ended up trying windows 7 laptop that worked and got it all updated and zero leveled. Going to test drive tonight.

BEZ06

Hey Derek - glad to hear you got it all loaded up.

But I'm really looking forward to your report after your drive!!

Bob

.

AmmoVet

Take a look at this: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rol-issue.html. wonder if our controllers are beating this or we are too numb to notice?

Bullet Tooth

I would like to thank Jordan and Mike for helping me with my issue. They went above and beyond to help me. I'll be trying the DSC tomorrow at a track day and I'll report back with my review of the car with it on. DSC does absolutely take care of its customers.

mdz06vetter

Stopped by TPC Racing and talked with Mike yesterday afternoon and he was BUSY! Had a couple of Vipers in the shop they had just completed alignment on with Tractive shock replacement, etc. - both silver and mean looking; also had his Nismo in the shop that he had just returned from testing at VIR and was downloading test results - what an awesome looking machine! Of course, many Poorshas in various stages of work. Mike indicated a "new and improved" update for WiFi would be coming soon, and he would let all know when it was available. Oh, forgot to mention he was also working on his Harley trying to get more low-end torque out of it - very radical redesign on the exhaust, etc.

badhabit_wb

Those guys are a class act. If you have a problem they are ready, willing, and able to help.
H

thebishman

I received an email today about a new software download for the C7. Is it just for cars with the tractive shocks, or for those of us with the OEM MRCs?

Bish

Poor-sha

I just pulled it down and looked. That's the setup we developed on my car this week. It was with the Tractive shocks and with Pirelli slicks in 305/645-18F and 325/660-18R. We added some low speed velocity compression and stiffened the front end up to make the car a little tighter on corner entry so I could trail brake deeper. It's a wonderful setup and I plan on starting a new thread just to share and discuss DSC tunes.

There is one difference in the version they posted from what I ended up leaving in my car. In the DSC posted config you'll see the PTM settings make the front end progressively stiffer in Track Sport 1, Sport 2, and Race (60/70/80 in front). I ended up setting all 3 modes to 70 for the front which is what Sport 2 is set at in the DSC config.

You can't run this config directly on an MR shock car because the shock table voltages have different ranges and actually work in reverse. Stock shocks are full soft at 0 ma and the Tractive shocks are full stiff at 0 ma. However, you could make the same changes to the PTM modes and the velocity table though (we only changed the front compression in the velocity table).

badhabit_wb

I just loaded this into my controller and zeroed the shocks today. Should I adjust it if I'm running cup 2's at VIR. I'm guessing it doesn't need to be quite as firm. Thanks.

Herman