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C7 Corvette Camber Kit by AMT Motorsport now available

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Old 10-08-2017, 08:14 AM
  #41  
Poor-sha
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I've hit bumps hard enough to bend two wheels and my alignment hasn't moved with the AMT camber kit. Spend the time to learn how to do this yourself and never be reliant on a shop and whether their gear is calibrated correctly. It is a ton of work to get it right but once it's set, it's set.

The only issue I had was that I failed to properly tighten the rear toe link and it started moving at my first track day after I aligned it. I mistakenly adjusted both rear toe links and ended up with my thrust angle off which I tried to fix but ended up with all four wheels toe off. I ended up taking it to DSC Sport/TPC Racing to fix the toe and check my work on the camber/caster. It was slightly different but we had less ballast in the drivers seat and less fuel in the car. We measured the toe curve with the Granitelli links and found that it works better with 1.0-1.5mm of toe-in in the rear.

The other thing I learned since that thread was that the car settles pretty well if you have slip plates and you bounce the car from underneath by pushing up on the cradles to rock it.
Old 10-08-2017, 08:21 AM
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spearfish25
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I’d like to do it myself but my limiting factor and deal breaker is a level surface and 4-Post lift. I’m working on quickjacks in a garage with a few degrees drainage pitch.
Old 10-08-2017, 08:24 AM
  #43  
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"The only issue I had was that I failed to properly tighten the rear toe link and it started moving at my first track day after I aligned it. I mistakenly adjusted both rear toe links and ended up with my thrust angle off which I tried to fix but ended up with all four wheels toe off."

Sean I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about with the toe links. I just installed mine Friday night and got them roughly the same as the factory links and am waiting on the Tenhulzen setup. Don't both links have to be adjusted to get the toe right on each side? Thanks.

ps. I can see how it would easily happen with toe plates just not with the string setup. I want to make sure I fully understand what I'm doing before I start.

Last edited by badhabit_wb; 10-08-2017 at 09:45 AM.
Old 10-08-2017, 09:04 AM
  #44  
spearfish25
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Well after doing the paddock shimmy here at Sebring, I’ve diagnosed that 6 of the 8 eccentrics are below the 125 ft-lb spec. Goddamn frustrating they couldn’t put a f*$&ing torque wrench on them when the car was getting aligned.
Old 10-08-2017, 09:35 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by spearfish25
Well after doing the paddock shimmy here at Sebring, I’ve diagnosed that 6 of the 8 eccentrics are below the 125 ft-lb spec. Goddamn frustrating they couldn’t put a f*$&ing torque wrench on them when the car was getting aligned.
We've installed many of the AMT plates and UCA stud\shim kits. Even when torqueing the eccentrics to spec or just over we had them move on the track. I had an instructor in my car once when one on the rear moved. He was dam sure a suspension piece broke based on the noise it made! Scary to say the least and dangerous!

To answer your question. Yes you can get a bit more negative camber with the plate kit set at 2. It makes it easy to just loosen a few nuts and slide in a couple 1\16th shims in the UCA to get a decent street camber. Make sure you readjust toe it will change, guaranteed!

Sean did I read your post correctly, with the Granatelli bars your going with toe in and a lot of it? That's opposite of what most of us have been doing. Did you go to WG yet?
Old 10-08-2017, 09:46 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Poor-sha
I've hit bumps hard enough to bend two wheels and my alignment hasn't moved with the AMT camber kit. Spend the time to learn how to do this yourself and never be reliant on a shop and whether their gear is calibrated correctly. It is a ton of work to get it right but once it's set, it's set.

The only issue I had was that I failed to properly tighten the rear toe link and it started moving at my first track day after I aligned it. I mistakenly adjusted both rear toe links and ended up with my thrust angle off which I tried to fix but ended up with all four wheels toe off. I ended up taking it to DSC Sport/TPC Racing to fix the toe and check my work on the camber/caster. It was slightly different but we had less ballast in the drivers seat and less fuel in the car. We measured the toe curve with the Granitelli links and found that it works better with 1.0-1.5mm of toe-in in the rear.

The other thing I learned since that thread was that the car settles pretty well if you have slip plates and you bounce the car from underneath by pushing up on the cradles to rock it.
Originally Posted by Mad Dog 24
We've installed many of the AMT plates and UCA stud\shim kits. Even when torqueing the eccentrics to spec or just over we had them move on the track. I had an instructor in my car once when one on the rear moved. He was dam sure a suspension piece broke based on the noise it made! Scary to say the least and dangerous!

To answer your question. Yes you can get a bit more negative camber with the plate kit set at 2. It makes it easy to just loosen a few nuts and slide in a couple 1\16th shims in the UCA to get a decent street camber. Make sure you readjust toe it will change, guaranteed!

Sean did I read your post correctly, with the Granatelli bars your going with toe in and a lot of it? That's opposite of what most of us have been doing. Did you go to WG yet?
Did you have the AMT plates move or the factory eccentrics? Thanks.
Old 10-08-2017, 09:57 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by badhabit_wb
Did you have the AMT plates move or the factory eccentrics? Thanks.
Sorry I wasn't very clear. The factory eccentrics moved on my car and many others. The AMT plates will not move they set within the same grove as the factory eccentrics do. I bet they would hold even if hand tightened

For track guys this is not just a cool mod its a safe mod aside from being able to get more camber and finite quick adjustments.
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:04 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Mad Dog 24
Sorry I wasn't very clear. The factory eccentrics moved on my car and many others. The AMT plates will not move they set within the same grove as the factory eccentrics do. I bet they would hold even if hand tightened

For track guys this is not just a cool mod its a safe mod aside from being able to get more camber and finite quick adjustments.
That's what I thought I just wanted to make sure. When I took mine for an alignment last week I used a different shop. They managed to bend one of my plates and flat out refused to take the wheels off and put shims on the uca's. Needless to say I was not happy. I called AMT and they replaced the bent one and had it to me in 2 days. I'm going to start doing my own alignments and just get it checked by a local shop afterwards to make sure I don't get sideways on something.
Old 10-08-2017, 10:27 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by badhabit_wb
"The only issue I had was that I failed to properly tighten the rear toe link and it started moving at my first track day after I aligned it. I mistakenly adjusted both rear toe links and ended up with my thrust angle off which I tried to fix but ended up with all four wheels toe off."

Sean I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about with the toe links. I just installed mine Friday night and got them roughly the same as the factory links and am waiting on the Tenhulzen setup. Don't both links have to be adjusted to get the toe right on each side? Thanks.

ps. I can see how it would easily happen with toe plates just not with the string setup. I want to make sure I fully understand what I'm doing before I start.
Originally Posted by Mad Dog 24
Sean did I read your post correctly, with the Granatelli bars your going with toe in and a lot of it? That's opposite of what most of us have been doing. Did you go to WG yet?
Originally Posted by badhabit_wb
Did you have the AMT plates move or the factory eccentrics? Thanks.
Sorry I should have been more clear. I failed to tighten the jam nut on the Granatelli toe link and it backed off at the track and the toe for progressively worse on the LR throughout the day. This was largely because I couldn't really get a wrench inside the wheel to tighten the outer jam nut and was too lazy to jack the car back up and pull the wheel.

I knew something was off so when I got home I restrung up the car and checked the toe. It appeared to be off on both sides in the rear because the car was slightly crabbed and I didn't realize that only the LR had moved. I adjusted both sides which then set the car as crabbed and made the front appear to be off. Basically I was chasing my tail at that point because one wheel had moved off significantly and I started adjusting more than just that wheel.

As best I could understand Mike, the Granatelli toe links changed the distance from the end of the toe link to the back of the upright. That changed the geometry of the suspension. Since I was at DSC/TPC we decided to measure the toe curve with the toe links and found that you don't get the toe changes with it that you do with the stock toe links. So we went with 1.0 or 1.5mm (can't remember which) of toe-in on the rear instead of the DSC recommended 0.5 toe-out with the stock setup.

All I know is that getting the rear toe right totally transformed the car. It's amazing what a difference such a small thing can make. The fact that I was able to turn a 1:59.0 at VIR on Cup 2 tires is good enough indication for me that the car is working well.

I'm at Watkins Glen this Friday-Sunday with HOD NE. Looks like a 2:09 is the best time listed in the official lap time thread, have there been any updates on a good lap time to shoot for?
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:31 AM
  #50  
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Sean if you're doing 1:59@ VIR you should be right around the same at WGI. Lap times between those two tracks have always been eerily similar.
Old 10-08-2017, 10:51 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Poor-sha
Sorry I should have been more clear. I failed to tighten the jam nut on the Granatelli toe link and it backed off at the track and the toe for progressively worse on the LR throughout the day. This was largely because I couldn't really get a wrench inside the wheel to tighten the outer jam nut and was too lazy to jack the car back up and pull the wheel.

I knew something was off so when I got home I restrung up the car and checked the toe. It appeared to be off on both sides in the rear because the car was slightly crabbed and I didn't realize that only the LR had moved. I adjusted both sides which then set the car as crabbed and made the front appear to be off. Basically I was chasing my tail at that point because one wheel had moved off significantly and I started adjusting more than just that wheel.

As best I could understand Mike, the Granatelli toe links changed the distance from the end of the toe link to the back of the upright. That changed the geometry of the suspension. Since I was at DSC/TPC we decided to measure the toe curve with the toe links and found that you don't get the toe changes with it that you do with the stock toe links. So we went with 1.0 or 1.5mm (can't remember which) of toe-in on the rear instead of the DSC recommended 0.5 toe-out with the stock setup.

All I know is that getting the rear toe right totally transformed the car. It's amazing what a difference such a small thing can make. The fact that I was able to turn a 1:59.0 at VIR on Cup 2 tires is good enough indication for me that the car is working well.

I'm at Watkins Glen this Friday-Sunday with HOD NE. Looks like a 2:09 is the best time listed in the official lap time thread, have there been any updates on a good lap time to shoot for?
Thanks for the update! I'm guessing that the change had as much to do with adjusting caster on the upper uca's instead of the lower uca's as the Granatelli toe links. I can easily see how that would change the geometry a bit in the rear. I still think that's the best way to do it since it wouldn't even be possible with just adjusting the amt plates.
It should be a lot safer as well. You wouldn't want the camber changing suddenly in a turn like it can with the stock adjusters. I had that happen with a c3 autocrossing 30 years ago and it resulted in a spin. That's not dangerous, typically, when autocrossing like it would be at VIR in traffic!

Last edited by badhabit_wb; 10-09-2017 at 08:42 PM.
Old 10-08-2017, 11:20 AM
  #52  
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Wish there was a decent shop in SW FL that could install these and do a bang up job dialing in the first alignment. Just nothing around here.
Old 10-09-2017, 04:10 PM
  #53  
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Sean with the tenhulzen setup do you center the strings on the center of the wheel. The reason I'm asking is because I don't think the string will be level. With the pads level that I drove up on the center of the rear wheel is higher unless I got something wrong setting things up. Thanks
Old 10-09-2017, 07:44 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by badhabit_wb
Sean with the tenhulzen setup do you center the strings on the center of the wheel. The reason I'm asking is because I don't think the string will be level. With the pads level that I drove up on the center of the rear wheel is higher unless I got something wrong setting things up. Thanks
Correct, the rear tires have a larger diameter than the front. You can either put the front of the string on a lower notch or just adjust which notch you use front and back depending on whether you are measure front or rear.
Old 10-09-2017, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by spearfish25
Wish there was a decent shop in SW FL that could install these and do a bang up job dialing in the first alignment. Just nothing around here.
I'm in Sanibel right now just 30 miles away seem I should of brought my tools with me to help you out, Have you tried to contact the local Porsche club to see who they use for alignments.
Old 10-09-2017, 08:12 PM
  #56  
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As best I could understand Mike, the Granatelli toe links changed the distance from the end of the toe link to the back of the upright. That changed the geometry of the suspension. Since I was at DSC/TPC we decided to measure the toe curve with the toe links and found that you don't get the toe changes with it that you do with the stock toe links. So we went with 1.0 or 1.5mm (can't remember which) of toe-in on the rear instead of the DSC recommended 0.5 toe-out with the stock setup.

All I know is that getting the rear toe right totally transformed the car. It's amazing what a difference such a small thing can make. The fact that I was able to turn a 1:59.0 at VIR on Cup 2 tires is good enough indication for me that the car is working well.

I'm at Watkins Glen this Friday-Sunday with HOD NE. Looks like a 2:09 is the best time listed in the official lap time thread, have there been any updates on a good lap time to shoot for?[/QUOTE]

Next spring I will do another toe curve run with the Granatelli bars. All this season my cars rear was set at .05 to .07 mm out. The back has always felt as the best part of the car. I'm pretty sure I run more rear camber than most so I'm wondering if that effects the curve to work for me.

In August in high 80's temp on well used Cup's 2 I ran 2 back to back 2.03's with my son as a passenger. Surprised me self and my son as he wanted out of the car, had enough! I posted it on the track times with a video I think or maybe it was some 2.06's in the beginning of the year. Have fun, looking forward to your videos and comments. Like you did at VIR I want to get below 2.0 on Cups next year at WGI.
Old 10-17-2017, 07:43 PM
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Sean sorry to keep asking questions but was the 1-1.5 toe per side or total? Thanks.

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Old 10-21-2017, 03:47 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by badhabit_wb
Sean sorry to keep asking questions but was the 1-1.5 toe per side or total? Thanks.
per side
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Old 10-21-2017, 06:11 PM
  #59  
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So toe in if we have the Granatelli bars in the rear?
Old 10-21-2017, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tracer3030
So toe in if we have the Granatelli bars in the rear?
We both have the AMT camber kits as well as the Granatelli toe links. If your's is set up that way 1.5mm per side in the rear works best.


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