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I disagree with the physics of that. The pothole edge pushes the tire and then the wheel up (or up and back). How hard the wheel resists that is a function of many things but shock dampening is among them.
So when you're in Track, you're running a higher risk of denting the wheel. Whether it's a significant risk or a significant change I don't know, but it's not zero, and it is dependent on dampening mode.
I've hit some pretty wicked potholes in Track, so whatever dented this one was worse than those.
Dave
Agreed. If the wheel can more easily, readily move up then the peak force of the impact will be reduced. You could go as far to say that track mode may avoid the wheel falling into the hole as badly too but there are a number of variables at play here.
In general, NJ road are generally poor sans a few areas. I know the roads I travel for the most part but sometimes you are in for an unavoidable surprise. I sprung for the wheel/tire warranty when I got my car so I would never have to use it .
In general you are right however this car should have a forged wheel on it. The strength comparison is significant and the incremental cost for a large manufacturer would have been rather minimal. Hell, they could easily pass that on to the customer. I had a set of aluminum wheels on my firebird that bent if you looked at them funny. I now have a set of forged wheels and they are so much more durable.
I don't necessarily disagree, but on the flip side, the same argument could be said for most any other component on the vehicle. Then a $80-120K vehicle becomes a $150-200K vehicle and far fewer people purchase it.
I don't necessarily disagree, but on the flip side, the same argument could be said for most any other component on the vehicle. Then a $80-120K vehicle becomes a $150-200K vehicle and far fewer people purchase it.
Yes they still have to watch the bottom line. With ~$30k in options able to be tacked onto the Z06, forged wheels really shouldn't be a big swing. Certainly not a direct comparison but even the cheaper Hellcat gets a forged wheel. They will need it more for the 1k more weight dancing around a track though.
I feel tarnished because this wheel isn't manufactured to handle a standard pothole. I'm not sure what people here call potholes, maybe your imagining a giant hole where the wheel crashed in, but what I drove over was a joke.
Did it happen there? Maybe? If so, I'm surprised and extremely disappointed.
By the way, my alignment is as straight as an arrow. If this pothole was in fact so bad, you'd imagine alignment would be messed up.
If I had physical damage and a messed up alignment, sure, I could say it was bad. But I can't see any damage and the alignment is perfect...so yeah, I'm tarnished
I understand your frustration . I have about 32,000 miles on my 2016 Z06/Z07 and have been through several rims. Two of them were bent by them forcefully mounting Michelin super sport tires. Five have been bent by hitting relatively small flaws in the road. The combination of a wide rim and a stiff run flat side wall makes them more vulnerable. This might not make you feel better,however I had a 911S with BBS forged wheels and bent one after hitting a very minor bump. The difference was the Porsche wheel cost $2900 to replace and had to be shipped from Germany. The Corvette wheel can be had for around $500. I would suggest switching to a non-runflat tire if you worry about bending rims. They are much less likely to do so. I have yet to bend a rim with the Perelli Soto zero non-runflat winter tires. (Knock on wood). I have invested in a whole set of rims and tires and I can swap them out and diagnose which rim is bent and have a solution very quickly.(Corvette is my daily driver) Although slightly expensive it makes life much easier to move on.
Larry, I'm very sorry to hear this. It definitely does make someone feel awful and pissed. I'm thinking it's probably best to drive in Tour mode until May - June when all the potholes are filled. I was planning on debuting my Z next Sunday on Easter, but I'll have to go slow and be on the lookout each second for potholes.
I hope everything works out for you. The car is amazing and you will enjoy it more that Spring and Summer is almost here!
That's the shitty part, I was in Touring mode
I'm not going to repair it, I don't see any physical damage anywhere and I drove 200 miles this weekend (a ton for me) and the vibration is really minimal.
The "flat spot" must be so minimal and just beyond the threshold to cause vibration.
It's probably why I'm so disappointed, I know some on the board don't believe me, but I know the likely culprit pothole, I know I wasn't going fast and I know I was in Touring mode. The damage that was caused is not visible and causes a little vibration, which validates why I'm surprised there was any damage.
I now cringe anytime I drove over anything, but whatever, I'm sure I'll get over it.
I understand your frustration . I have about 32,000 miles on my 2016 Z06/Z07 and have been through several rims. Two of them were bent by them forcefully mounting Michelin super sport tires. Five have been bent by hitting relatively small flaws in the road. The combination of a wide rim and a stiff run flat side wall makes them more vulnerable. This might not make you feel better,however I had a 911S with BBS forged wheels and bent one after hitting a very minor bump. The difference was the Porsche wheel cost $2900 to replace and had to be shipped from Germany. The Corvette wheel can be had for around $500. I would suggest switching to a non-runflat tire if you worry about bending rims. They are much less likely to do so. I have yet to bend a rim with the Perelli Soto zero non-runflat winter tires. (Knock on wood). I have invested in a whole set of rims and tires and I can swap them out and diagnose which rim is bent and have a solution very quickly.(Corvette is my daily driver) Although slightly expensive it makes life much easier to move on.
Thank you, I can honestly relate to everything you're saying. Sucks that we're the ones footing the bill, we should have just gotten the right wheel from GM. **** I would gladly pay $500 more...really doesn't matter $100,500 vs $101,000 and GM would address a lot of little annoying problems. I spent almost $10,000 before I got the car, there is some elasticity in the vehicle price.
The Z is also my daily driver, I mentioned before, my commute is pretty darn nice and not the standard in Jersey.
I looked up the cost of a new rim, $450. I'm not going to replace it at the moment.
Before buying a wheel, I'd suggest going to another place and having it balanced again, such as EuroTire with its long reputation. Maybe even have them break the tire off the wheel to see where it was bent if not visually obvious now.
I also know your area roads, and like many places around the country, there are some terribly-maintained spots. My other car when I go up there hits some places that make the car shudder as well as the occupants. Some roads are so poor, there are tires, wheels, and entire cars that can become damaged quite easily. That's just my opinion, but there are whole areas I try to avoid---just not worth it to me. Of course, I recently ran over a piece of metal in the road in Mt. Pleasant, TX and blew out a non-runflat tire very early one morning. Fortunately, there was an NTB right across the highway that was open at 745 am. I barely made it there with the remaining air pressure. The wheel was fine.
Usually an unbalanced wheel and a bent rim have different symptoms. A unbalanced wheel will often be OK until a certain speed around 65 miles an hour and then actually get better when you go faster. A bent rim often is not very noticeable at slower speed and then as you go faster it gets worse and keeps getting worse as you go faster. In my experience it's also hard to tell which side is shaking. Front wheel problems shake in the steering wheel, rear wheel problems tend not to. Best way is to swap a new wheel on there until the problem goes away. Most bends are hard to see. I am planning to build a test jig where I can mount the tire on a hub gently spin it and measure the run out with a dial gauge.
Hi I had a vibration above 80 miles per hour on my C6 (persisted up to 100..not sure after that lol) Mechanic found the wheel to have a very slight bend on the inside edge of the front wheel (forged)which could only easily be seen when spinning on the balance machine while aiming a flashlight at it. No visible damage otherwise. New wheel quote was 1200, I went to Rim Doctor and for 110 took care of the problem, vibration resolved.
I believe that in track mode the compression and rebound settings for the shock absorber are much higher than when in tour mode. The higher the compression is set on the shock the more force that is transmitted to the chassis of the car during a "hit" i.e. will be more rigid. The shock absorbs less energy and the tire, rim and frame have to absorb it instead. Harsher ride and potential for more damage to the wheel.
Lower compression will allow the wheel to move further in the vertical direction and more energy is absorbed into the shock fluid. That will reduce the energy that has to be absorbed by the wheel, rim and chassis for the same "hit".
That's an excellent, well thought out argument, but I'm not sure I fully agree. The "harsh" ride you feel has to do with the forces that made it through the shock without being absorbed and into the vehicle. The tire has long since absorbed what it will and transmitted to the rim.
Originally Posted by RobGZ06
Wait huh?
Not sure if you understand how suspension works man.
I understand physics, mass, mechanical engineering and the order the forces are transferred.
Do you?
Pothole --> tire --> rim --> lug bolts.studs --> spindle --> shock/springs --> chassis --> seat --> you
The suspension doesn't absorb the energy to keep it from the wheel. it absorbs energy to keep it from affecting you!
Evidence that track mode causes more damage to rim is purely anecdotal.
Last edited by Spacewalker; 04-10-2017 at 04:09 PM.
That's an excellent, well thought out argument, but I'm not sure I fully agree. The "harsh" ride you feel has to do with the forces that made it through the shock without being absorbed and into the vehicle. The tire has long since absorbed what it will and transmitted to the rim.
A c
I understand physics, mass, mechanical engineering and the order the forces are transferred.
Do you?
Pothole --> tire --> rim --> lug bolts.studs --> spindle --> shock/springs --> chassis --> seat --> you
The suspension doesn't absorb the energy to keep it from the wheel. it absorbs energy to keep it from affecting you!
Evidence that track mode causes more damage to rim is purely anecdotal.
A perfectly elastic spring absorbs kinetic energy and converts it to potential energy. This energy would then be converted back to kinetic energy. The car would bounce up and down endlessly. The spring is not "perfectly elastic " so the energy is converted to heat and the car stops bouncing eventually. This would be less than ideal so a "shock absorber" works in parallel with the spring to dampen the bounce. It quickly absorbs energy and converts it to heat. Compression and rebound often convert different amounts. The more dampening you have i.e. track mode the more energy is absorbed in the compression phase. The increase dampening results in increased force to compress the spring. Half is felt as a harsher ride and half is felt by the tire and rim. The peak force applied to the rim would be higher with this increase in dampening. This is more likely to cause damage to the rim. A rim could be bent in either mode but I believe track mode is more likely to bend the rim. The 1 foot wide rim on the Z06 makes the interior lip vulnerable to radial displacement. The stiff sidewall of the runflat tire transfers more force to that vulnerable interior lip. I speculate that is why Porsche does not have Runflat tires and would be interested to know for sure if that weighed in on their decision not to use them.
there are companys that straighten bent wheels.google one in your area and get a estiminate.as soon as the run flats go bald,no more runflats for me.
This is quite true and probably your best approach. I worked for a large BMW/Mercedes/Land Rover etc. dealer and they had a wheel repair company that set up in their parking lot and did the work very well and very reasonably, I'm thinking a couple hundred bucks tops. Pretty common problem with used cars taken on trade around here. Handled a lot of pretty big wheels although not Z06 wheels. My BMW 5 series has a bent wheel from a winter pothole that cost me a new tire but still holds air and is balanced, but I still notice a little vibration so I will be taking it over for straightening sometime in the next few weeks. It would be good if what ever company you choose has experience with the difficult to mount Z06 wheels. --Bob
I don't necessarily disagree, but on the flip side, the same argument could be said for most any other component on the vehicle. Then a $80-120K vehicle becomes a $150-200K vehicle and far fewer people purchase it.
Originally Posted by Brmr
Hi I had a vibration above 80 miles per hour on my C6 (persisted up to 100..not sure after that lol) Mechanic found the wheel to have a very slight bend on the inside edge of the front wheel (forged)which could only easily be seen when spinning on the balance machine while aiming a flashlight at it. No visible damage otherwise. New wheel quote was 1200, I went to Rim Doctor and for 110 took care of the problem, vibration resolved.
It's good to hear that you had success with RimDr. fixing your rim. I have thought about sending rims out to be fixed and that pushes me towards that as a good option. Did you ship them out to someone or did you have somebody local fix it?
You can't drive the car like that and going down the road your going is going to literally take weeks - call bob at house of wheels and be done with it - my 2 cents - I say this because i escalated a service issue and it was around a month before a decision not to my favor arrived. Several emails - through this process I recommend calling - easy to blow off an email other than a written record - really depends how far your gonna dig your feet in? I say call bob and put your feet on the gas pedal next week
Usually an unbalanced wheel and a bent rim have different symptoms. A unbalanced wheel will often be OK until a certain speed around 65 miles an hour and then actually get better when you go faster. A bent rim often is not very noticeable at slower speed and then as you go faster it gets worse and keeps getting worse as you go faster. In my experience it's also hard to tell which side is shaking. Front wheel problems shake in the steering wheel, rear wheel problems tend not to. Best way is to swap a new wheel on there until the problem goes away. Most bends are hard to see. I am planning to build a test jig where I can mount the tire on a hub gently spin it and measure the run out with a dial gauge.
You can't drive the car like that and going down the road your going is going to literally take weeks - call bob at house of wheels and be done with it - my 2 cents - I say this because i escalated a service issue and it was around a month before a decision not to my favor arrived. Several emails - through this process I recommend calling - easy to blow off an email other than a written record - really depends how far your gonna dig your feet in? I say call bob and put your feet on the gas pedal next week
I did reach out to Bob, super quick response on a factory replacement and about 30%+ off my dealer quote
But I'm in no rush to repair the wheel, it really is fine driving around and 90% of my driving is on local roads under 40mph where I don't feel the vibration.
On the highway, the vibration picks up but is not bad.
I'm pushing for the dealer to repair the gouge first, whoever ends up repairing the gouge I'll ask for a quote to also straighten. Fingers crossed the tire is not damaged.
What are the chances the tire is damaged? I don't see any sidewall bubbles or anything like that
I did reach out to Bob, super quick response on a factory replacement and about 30%+ off my dealer quote
But I'm in no rush to repair the wheel, it really is fine driving around and 90% of my driving is on local roads under 40mph where I don't feel the vibration.
On the highway, the vibration picks up but is not bad.
I'm pushing for the dealer to repair the gouge first, whoever ends up repairing the gouge I'll ask for a quote to also straighten. Fingers crossed the tire is not damaged.
What are the chances the tire is damaged? I don't see any sidewall bubbles or anything like that
Post up some pics of the tire, rim, etc. Can't tell without pics
Scheduled my oil change earlier in the week as I estimated I would be hitting 500 miles soon. I got to 495 by the time I got to the dealership and had them do my first oil change.
Last week I started feeling a vibration coming from the front of my car. Really didn't know what it was, I hit a pretty insignificant pothole a few days prior, but nothing out of the norm. Nothing that I would think would bend a wheel.
Mentioned what I was feeling and they said they would road force balance my wheels.
2 hours later they're telling me I have a flat spot on my passenger wheel from a significant impact. I'm pretty ******* floored at this point but I know people here have had issues with Mexico's finest and GM replaced under warranty. Paramus Chevrolet wouldn't warranty it though, I understand their position since they said they've never seen a Corvette rim get damaged (hmmm)
Anyway, I'm not paying $1,300 for this crap. I know several of you had issues and addressed through warranty, how best do I approach this?
I've looked closely, I can't find any signs of damage on the wheel, spent at least 5 minutes examining. Planning on pulling it off to look even closer
To add icing on the rotten cake, while inspecting the wheel, it appears the dealership gouged the wheel, how do I address this now?
Were you driving in 'Track' mode when you hit the pothole, I think the on board coputer can verify. Just sayin...
04-10-2017, 11:18 AM
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