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Im thinking about getting a set of wheels and "R" compound tires for my Zo7 and running twistys etc etc. I've been looking and wheels are plentiful but not tires in our stock wheel sizes. (No Cup2's plz) I was thinking of tires like the R888's or R888R's, NT-01's etc.
i even looked at going down to 19" rear wheels but I still can't find the width. My question is also do I really need that extra width?? What are you guys running? Pics would be nice also.
Thanks!
CCW 18x11 front and 18x13 rear with 315 front tires and 345 rear tires. With the ceramic brakes in the front you have run a spacer so the CCW wheel will fit flat against the rotor face. The stock rotor face has a depression the CCW wheel doesn't quite fit into and that keeps the lug nuts from being torqued properly. CCW will make the spacer for you as they know about the issue. The rear wheel is wide enough that the inner part of the wheel will contact the UCA when the car is lifted off the ground. A small spacer moves the wheel out some but you need to depress the suspension (to move the wheel away from the UCA) before tightening the lug nuts or you could bend the wheel.
Here are some pics of the wheels installed on my Z07.
The tires were new R7s when I purchased them last July and they currently have 6 track days on them with about 20 heat cycles and I have at least 2 more track days left before the fronts will cord. The Cup 2s handle pretty close to them but don't last as long and cost about $300 more for a new set. The nice thing about the Hoosiers is that low heat cycle A7s are available at $150 each. They last almost as long as the new tires (minus 1 to 3 heat cycles) and give very good grip as well. That means you can greatly reduce the cost of tires while still maintaining performance.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 04-14-2017 at 07:25 PM.
Was wondering what brand of rim and rim sizes you are running with those tires. Do you need spacers? Any issues with rubbing? I have a Z07 with carbon ceramic brakes, will you're set up clear those calipers? Thx
Last edited by AVETTE; 04-14-2017 at 07:07 PM.
Reason: Info
Was wondering what brand of rim and rim sizes you are running with those tires. Do you need spacers? Any issues with rubbing? I have a Z07 with carbon ceramic brakes, will you're set up clear those calipers? Thx
I'm running Finspeed 18x11F and 18x13R but I'm running the AP Racing brake kit front and stock iron setup on the rear. I believe that they will fit the CCBs as well but I do have the problem with the rears contacting the upper control arm when the car is on the lift. It can make mounting them a bit of a pain and you can see where the wheel is rubbing the UCA if you have one side completely unloaded on track.
I have a set of 18x12 CCWs on order to use as rears because of this issue and also because the slicks I'm running are really too narrow for a 13" wide rim anyway. I'll defer to Bill on the rotor to wheel mating surface issue.
I should also add that the front tires do contact the spats under compression. I just consider them a consumable at this point.
Do you have any issues with rubbing or contacting control arm like Por-sha? Any issues at all? Whats a good contact for purchasing Pirelli slick scrubs (I live near Chicago if that matters) Finally, how do you know when you need to replace your scrubs, thanks
Originally Posted by 5thGear
Frogeline GZ3 that clears Z07 CCB. No spacers needed
18x10 front
18X12 rear
Pirelli slicks scrubs
285 front
315 rear
I get mine from gtracingtires.com and I only replace them when I see cord. Compared to Hoosiers the Pirelli slicks stay remarkably consistent right to the end and tend to wear very evenly.
Do you have any issues with rubbing or contacting control arm like Por-sha? Any issues at all? Whats a good contact for purchasing Pirelli slick scrubs (I live near Chicago if that matters) Finally, how do you know when you need to replace your scrubs, thanks
No issues at all. Maybe because mine is stock wheel width front and rear. Easy to mount and I have Z07. obviously you have to be very careful not to smack the ceramic rotors when swapping wheels.
Same supplier as Poor-sha (GT track days). Run them to the cord. There are wear mark (holes). When the holes disappear then it's time to replace them.
I run Signature wheels, 10/18 fronts, 12/19 rears...
I'm still finding the best scrub tire combo to use, but looks like the Pirelli 305/645/18s up front and Conti full slicks in the rear, 325/710/19, the rears do kiss the liner on some turns at Willow, but nothing too damaging.
I'm super excited to hit Spring Mountain next week, should be a fun day on the 3.1 mile course!!
A 710 is a really tall rear tire. 660 is the same as stock. I ran 680s and it was rubbing on the metal bar behind the rear wheel well that the push pin goes through.
You're also changing the rake of the car by effectively jacking the rear up an inch.
It looks like you mark your tire to rim and the rears slip. Has that been a problem?
I had the same issue with a different car that I tracked.
Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
CCW 18x11 front and 18x13 rear with 315 front tires and 345 rear tires. With the ceramic brakes in the front you have run a spacer so the CCW wheel will fit flat against the rotor face. The stock rotor face has a depression the CCW wheel doesn't quite fit into and that keeps the lug nuts from being torqued properly. CCW will make the spacer for you as they know about the issue. The rear wheel is wide enough that the inner part of the wheel will contact the UCA when the car is lifted off the ground. A small spacer moves the wheel out some but you need to depress the suspension (to move the wheel away from the UCA) before tightening the lug nuts or you could bend the wheel.
Here are some pics of the wheels installed on my Z07.
The tires were new R7s when I purchased them last July and they currently have 6 track days on them with about 20 heat cycles and I have at least 2 more track days left before the fronts will cord. The Cup 2s handle pretty close to them but don't last as long and cost about $300 more for a new set. The nice thing about the Hoosiers is that low heat cycle A7s are available at $150 each. They last almost as long as the new tires (minus 1 to 3 heat cycles) and give very good grip as well. That means you can greatly reduce the cost of tires while still maintaining performance.
I'm running Finspeed 18x11F and 18x13R but I'm running the AP Racing brake kit front and stock iron setup on the rear. I believe that they will fit the CCBs as well but I do have the problem with the rears contacting the upper control arm when the car is on the lift. It can make mounting them a bit of a pain and you can see where the wheel is rubbing the UCA if you have one side completely unloaded on track.
I have a set of 18x12 CCWs on order to use as rears because of this issue and also because the slicks I'm running are really too narrow for a 13" wide rim anyway. I'll defer to Bill on the rotor to wheel mating surface issue.
I should also add that the front tires do contact the spats under compression. I just consider them a consumable at this point.
I also run the same Finspeeds that you do and also feel I need to go with a 12' rear. Would you mind sharing the info on the 18" wheel you ordered from CCW. I really would like to move to a 19" rear, but the last time I spoke with CCW they did not make the wheel I wanted in a 19" so at this point I am thinking 18". I am running the LG drop spindles and have had issues with the rear lower A arm rubbing the inside of the wheel. IMO we don't need a 13" rim on the rear. A 12" rear would help several issues.
I'm running Finspeed 18x11F and 18x13R but I'm running the AP Racing brake kit front and stock iron setup on the rear. I believe that they will fit the CCBs as well but I do have the problem with the rears contacting the upper control arm when the car is on the lift. It can make mounting them a bit of a pain and you can see where the wheel is rubbing the UCA if you have one side completely unloaded on track.
I have a set of 18x12 CCWs on order to use as rears because of this issue and also because the slicks I'm running are really too narrow for a 13" wide rim anyway. I'll defer to Bill on the rotor to wheel mating surface issue.
I should also add that the front tires do contact the spats under compression. I just consider them a consumable at this point.
Spats, fender liners, all consumables at this point. Might not be too long until I add a windshield and ft. bumper cover to that list!
I also run the same Finspeeds that you do and also feel I need to go with a 12' rear. Would you mind sharing the info on the 18" wheel you ordered from CCW. I really would like to move to a 19" rear, but the last time I spoke with CCW they did not make the wheel I wanted in a 19" so at this point I am thinking 18". I am running the LG drop spindles and have had issues with the rear lower A arm rubbing the inside of the wheel. IMO we don't need a 13" rim on the rear. A 12" rear would help several issues.
I just called CCW and said I wanted a set of 18x12 rear wheels for a C7Z. They ended up changing the order once because apparently the initial offset the guy came up with was wrong. Of course, that was four months ago and I still don't have them.
Originally Posted by WhiteSands
Spats, fender liners, all consumables at this point. Might not be too long until I add a windshield and ft. bumper cover to that list!
04-14-2017, 04:28 PM
What are you HPDE and track guys running?
