Question for the experienced track tech's
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Question for the experienced track tech's
Planning to take my new Z06 to a "track day" in my area next week... car finally has my 1,500 break-in miles and tomorrow I'll be switching out the brake fluid to DOT 4.
My question is this: can I get away with leaving the 5w30 oil in the car or must I change to the 15w50 as per normal track recommendation?
The oil and filter were just changed a couple weeks ago at 500 miles as required. The car will not be pushed hard during the track sessions... mostly I'm looking to do the brake burnish procedure and then a few short sessions to get use to car and track combo (haven't been on this track in almost 40 year).
Ambient temps expected on track day are very cool... only in the low 50's Fahrenheit. I will be manually shifting the auto but short shifting to keep revs well below the limits and allow water and oil temps to stay low.
Given all of this am I safe to keep the 5w30 oil in for this one time?
My question is this: can I get away with leaving the 5w30 oil in the car or must I change to the 15w50 as per normal track recommendation?
The oil and filter were just changed a couple weeks ago at 500 miles as required. The car will not be pushed hard during the track sessions... mostly I'm looking to do the brake burnish procedure and then a few short sessions to get use to car and track combo (haven't been on this track in almost 40 year).
Ambient temps expected on track day are very cool... only in the low 50's Fahrenheit. I will be manually shifting the auto but short shifting to keep revs well below the limits and allow water and oil temps to stay low.
Given all of this am I safe to keep the 5w30 oil in for this one time?
#3
Racer
I don't think you are going to be allowed to burnish your brakes on the track. They aren't going to let you slow to a near stop multiple times with others on the track driving at speed.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Racing/Track Brake Burnishing Procedure (Grand Sport, Z06 with Z07 Performance Package, or Z06 with J57 Ceramic Brakes)
This procedure should only be run on a track and only on dry
pavement.
1. Drive a normal first lap, not too aggressively.
2. Laps 2 and 3 should be gradually driven faster and more aggressively, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
3. Drive Lap 4 near full speed, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
4. Laps 5 and 6 should be cool down laps.
5. Lap 7 should be normal driving or an easy out lap.
Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.
Last edited by Questar; 04-27-2017 at 09:05 PM.
#5
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That's not the track burnish procedure listed in the owner's manual... different procedure for track burnishing.
Racing/Track Brake Burnishing Procedure (Grand Sport, Z06 with Z07 Performance Package, or Z06 with J57 Ceramic Brakes)
This procedure should only be run on a track and only on dry
pavement.
1. Drive a normal first lap, not too aggressively.
2. Laps 2 and 3 should be gradually driven faster and more aggressively, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
3. Drive Lap 4 near full speed, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
4. Laps 5 and 6 should be cool down laps.
5. Lap 7 should be normal driving or an easy out lap.
Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.
Racing/Track Brake Burnishing Procedure (Grand Sport, Z06 with Z07 Performance Package, or Z06 with J57 Ceramic Brakes)
This procedure should only be run on a track and only on dry
pavement.
1. Drive a normal first lap, not too aggressively.
2. Laps 2 and 3 should be gradually driven faster and more aggressively, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
3. Drive Lap 4 near full speed, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
4. Laps 5 and 6 should be cool down laps.
5. Lap 7 should be normal driving or an easy out lap.
Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1588479593
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...urnishing.html
#6
Le Mans Master
In those instructions, why is there brake fade? I don't think I've honestly experienced fade with my steel rotors, so how hard do you have to push CCBs for them to fade?
Or do they only do it when they're new an unburnished?
Or do they only do it when they're new an unburnished?
#7
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Location: Texas Hill Country
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#8
Race Director
With the J57 Carbon Ceramic Rotors, when you do the 0-60-0 fifty times, IIRC somewhere around 30 stops and the pads are doing some serious "out-gassing" (like Higgs says, they're basically on fire), and for a number of stops the brakes just don't work as well as they initially did.
However, around 40 or so they start to get strong again, and by 50 they feel good again. But you still need to then drive around and cool them off before parking. That's the "Street" burnishing procedure.
I always do the Street burnishing before ever going to the track - that way I don't lose a session doing the track burnishing procedure.
The other time that the track burnishing would be required is if you need to swap in a fresh set of pads at the track. Do the track burnishing, but plan to get some fade somewhere during the procedure.
I've swapped in a number of new sets of pads on my ZR1 and C7 Z06/Z07, and I've ALWAYS done the street burnishing before taking them to the track.
Take a look at this thread about the burnishing procedure:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...urnishing.html
In there you can read:
What's the track burnishing procedure for?
Editor note: This part of the post has been updated on 10 April, 2017. New information from GM.
Previously, it was thought by GM that the track burnishing should be done AFTER the street burnishing, IF you intend to drive on the race track. Earlier ZR1 owners manuals called for street burnishing then track burnishing. However, this is now longer required through testing by GM. When they send their new cars to the track, they only track burnish them.
So what does that mean? Following the owners manual, drive seven or eight laps with increasing speeds and then decreasing speeds. The middle lap should be full speed or near to it. Once you've completed those laps, do a final lap or two as a cool down, using your brakes as little as possible, and then park the car for the rest of that session. That should burnish the pads properly for use on the track (and on the street!)
Editor note: This part of the post has been updated on 10 April, 2017. New information from GM.
Previously, it was thought by GM that the track burnishing should be done AFTER the street burnishing, IF you intend to drive on the race track. Earlier ZR1 owners manuals called for street burnishing then track burnishing. However, this is now longer required through testing by GM. When they send their new cars to the track, they only track burnish them.
So what does that mean? Following the owners manual, drive seven or eight laps with increasing speeds and then decreasing speeds. The middle lap should be full speed or near to it. Once you've completed those laps, do a final lap or two as a cool down, using your brakes as little as possible, and then park the car for the rest of that session. That should burnish the pads properly for use on the track (and on the street!)
#9
Burning Brakes
Only when they are new, and only during the burnishing procedure.
With the J57 Carbon Ceramic Rotors, when you do the 0-60-0 fifty times, IIRC somewhere around 30 stops and the pads are doing some serious "out-gassing" (like Higgs says, they're basically on fire), and for a number of stops the brakes just don't work as well as they initially did.
However, around 40 or so they start to get strong again, and by 50 they feel good again. But you still need to then drive around and cool them off before parking. That's the "Street" burnishing procedure.
I always do the Street burnishing before ever going to the track - that way I don't lose a session doing the track burnishing procedure.
The other time that the track burnishing would be required is if you need to swap in a fresh set of pads at the track. Do the track burnishing, but plan to get some fade somewhere during the procedure.
I've swapped in a number of new sets of pads on my ZR1 and C7 Z06/Z07, and I've ALWAYS done the street burnishing before taking them to the track.
Take a look at this thread about the burnishing procedure:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...urnishing.html
In there you can read:
.
With the J57 Carbon Ceramic Rotors, when you do the 0-60-0 fifty times, IIRC somewhere around 30 stops and the pads are doing some serious "out-gassing" (like Higgs says, they're basically on fire), and for a number of stops the brakes just don't work as well as they initially did.
However, around 40 or so they start to get strong again, and by 50 they feel good again. But you still need to then drive around and cool them off before parking. That's the "Street" burnishing procedure.
I always do the Street burnishing before ever going to the track - that way I don't lose a session doing the track burnishing procedure.
The other time that the track burnishing would be required is if you need to swap in a fresh set of pads at the track. Do the track burnishing, but plan to get some fade somewhere during the procedure.
I've swapped in a number of new sets of pads on my ZR1 and C7 Z06/Z07, and I've ALWAYS done the street burnishing before taking them to the track.
Take a look at this thread about the burnishing procedure:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...urnishing.html
In there you can read:
.
Another question, concerning the text about doing track burnish only. If you've accomplished the street burnish do you still need to do the track burnish? Seems like not that big a deal since the first few laps you're typically building speed anyway as you build heat in the tires but if it's not necessary...
Mike
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
you need to street burnish before you track burnish.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1588479593
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...urnishing.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1588479593
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...urnishing.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594496276
So according to GM you can do either method and don't have to do both.
Last edited by Questar; 04-28-2017 at 07:36 AM.
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Higgs Boson (04-28-2017)
#11
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
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That has since been clarified by GM and if you read near the end of the thread (Carbon Ceramic Brake Burnishing sticky) you'll see that jvp has updated is original comments to indicate that his GM contacts confirmed this is an "either/or" and does NOT require BOTH methods.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594496276
So according to GM you can do either method and don't have to do both.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594496276
So according to GM you can do either method and don't have to do both.
#12
As far as the original question is concerned, I wouldn't recommend tracking on 5W30. You'll likely be ok but you will be on questionable warranty ground if you have a motor issue.
Last edited by Poor-sha; 04-28-2017 at 09:01 AM.
#13
Racer
That's not the track burnish procedure listed in the owner's manual... different procedure for track burnishing.
Racing/Track Brake Burnishing Procedure (Grand Sport, Z06 with Z07 Performance Package, or Z06 with J57 Ceramic Brakes)
This procedure should only be run on a track and only on dry
pavement.
1. Drive a normal first lap, not too aggressively.
2. Laps 2 and 3 should be gradually driven faster and more aggressively, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
3. Drive Lap 4 near full speed, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
4. Laps 5 and 6 should be cool down laps.
5. Lap 7 should be normal driving or an easy out lap.
Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.
Racing/Track Brake Burnishing Procedure (Grand Sport, Z06 with Z07 Performance Package, or Z06 with J57 Ceramic Brakes)
This procedure should only be run on a track and only on dry
pavement.
1. Drive a normal first lap, not too aggressively.
2. Laps 2 and 3 should be gradually driven faster and more aggressively, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
3. Drive Lap 4 near full speed, while allowing for reduced brake output and increased stopping distance due to brake fade.
4. Laps 5 and 6 should be cool down laps.
5. Lap 7 should be normal driving or an easy out lap.
Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.