Anyone using the GSpeed dry break IC bleeder ?
05-06-2017, 12:28 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Anyone using the GSpeed dry break IC bleeder ?
https://gspeed.com/product/dry-break...ler-bleed-kit/
Did it eliminate the air at the top of the reservoir ?
Did it eliminate the air at the top of the reservoir ?
05-06-2017, 01:51 PM
#3
Supporting Vendor
Sadly, it doesnt. It certainly helps, but the design of that OEM tank has many chambers and baffles and its quite short of almost impossible to get the air out 100%.
We have found that if you drain the coolant, and pull a vacuum on the system, you can remove about half of that air pocket, but not all of it.
Our experience is that when you bleed the system, even with that remaining air pocket, the system will still function better than before the bleed.
There was a gentlement at COTA a few weeks ago with a yellow Manual trans 2015, and did have the throttle shut down. Naturally, with 4 C7Zs in our pit, he asked them if they had any issues.
Bleeding the system, it only took about 4oz of water, but it was enough that the car went from poor performance to full power.
Such finicky systems, we recommend bleeding and topping off the blower coolant before every track outing, and this is a great way to do it.
We have found that if you drain the coolant, and pull a vacuum on the system, you can remove about half of that air pocket, but not all of it.
Our experience is that when you bleed the system, even with that remaining air pocket, the system will still function better than before the bleed.
There was a gentlement at COTA a few weeks ago with a yellow Manual trans 2015, and did have the throttle shut down. Naturally, with 4 C7Zs in our pit, he asked them if they had any issues.
Bleeding the system, it only took about 4oz of water, but it was enough that the car went from poor performance to full power.
Such finicky systems, we recommend bleeding and topping off the blower coolant before every track outing, and this is a great way to do it.
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2023 NASA National Champion TT2
"Keeping You on Track!"
http://www.gspeed.com
877-512-5180
Instagram_Facebook_YouTube
GSpeed C7Z Cooling Development
2014 NASA Texas TT1 Champion
2015 NASA Texas ST1 Champion
2018 NASA TTU & TT3 National Champions
2019 NASA ST2 National Champion
2019 NASA Texas TT2 Champion
2020 SCCA Majors COTA GT2 pole sitter
2020 SCCA Trans Am Road Atlanta SGT Winner
2022 NASA National Champion ST2
2023 NASA National Champion ST2
2023 NASA National Champion TT2
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rsilver (05-07-2017)
05-06-2017, 01:54 PM
#4
Drifting
Sadly, it doesnt. It certainly helps, but the design of that OEM tank has many chambers and baffles and its quite short of almost impossible to get the air out 100%.
We have found that if you drain the coolant, and pull a vacuum on the system, you can remove about half of that air pocket, but not all of it.
Our experience is that when you bleed the system, even with that remaining air pocket, the system will still function better than before the bleed.
There was a gentlement at COTA a few weeks ago with a yellow Manual trans 2015, and did have the throttle shut down. Naturally, with 4 C7Zs in our pit, he asked them if they had any issues.
Bleeding the system, it only took about 4oz of water, but it was enough that the car went from poor performance to full power.
Such finicky systems, we recommend bleeding and topping off the blower coolant before every track outing, and this is a great way to do it.
We have found that if you drain the coolant, and pull a vacuum on the system, you can remove about half of that air pocket, but not all of it.
Our experience is that when you bleed the system, even with that remaining air pocket, the system will still function better than before the bleed.
There was a gentlement at COTA a few weeks ago with a yellow Manual trans 2015, and did have the throttle shut down. Naturally, with 4 C7Zs in our pit, he asked them if they had any issues.
Bleeding the system, it only took about 4oz of water, but it was enough that the car went from poor performance to full power.
Such finicky systems, we recommend bleeding and topping off the blower coolant before every track outing, and this is a great way to do it.
05-06-2017, 02:05 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So after the system is properly vac and filled, your dry break bleeder can be used to maintain it . If a system is drained can your dry break bleeder be used instead of the vac system with the same results ?
05-06-2017, 03:15 PM
#6
Supporting Vendor
Depends on the amount drained. If you drain around 30%, it will uncover the tank, and you are back at vac levels.
Keep in mind, it isnt necessary to vac fill, but it helps reduce the air pocket.
Keeping the system maintained is more important than a vac fill.
Vacfill is best, but it can be hard or not feasible for some. 2-3oz low is enough to make a difference in water condition.
Keep in mind, it isnt necessary to vac fill, but it helps reduce the air pocket.
Keeping the system maintained is more important than a vac fill.
Vacfill is best, but it can be hard or not feasible for some. 2-3oz low is enough to make a difference in water condition.
05-06-2017, 05:36 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
2-3oz delta means GM messed up. I have a Stewart EMP in another TT car and it just runs. Hard. This cavitation shut down bs is not good. I'll be buying your bleeder for the short term maintenance program. Long term a better pump without cavitation shut down is the correct answer.
05-06-2017, 07:23 PM
#8
Supporting Vendor
Agreed. You understand the benefits of a proper pump, most dont. We have a new pump in the works, with no shut down. Fitting the stewart pump is difficult, this is a more compact design.
05-06-2017, 07:44 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
That's great news. I'm getting 21GPM through my system with the EMP. It's bad ***. Have to properly size the hoses, fittings, etc. I would not reduce it down to ZO6 stock plumbing spec. Too much pressure head and amp draw. I bet the stock ZO6 is under 5GPM. Make your new pump pnp and I'm in. Even at 5GPM it would sell well without the auto shutdown. Varimax should flow about the same as the Buhler but it only has a thermal shutdown around 120C.
05-06-2017, 07:53 PM
#10
Drifting
Side note, Callaway package removes the lower tank, re-plumbed with different pump (located on drivers side), and mounted a tank with cap just under the hood, drivers side.
I have not tracked the car enough to figure out if it shuts down like the OEM one does. As GSPEED helps me get the car track capable we will see, and share the info
I have not tracked the car enough to figure out if it shuts down like the OEM one does. As GSPEED helps me get the car track capable we will see, and share the info
05-07-2017, 01:21 PM
#11
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: central mountians colorado
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Depends on the amount drained. If you drain around 30%, it will uncover the tank, and you are back at vac levels.
Keep in mind, it isnt necessary to vac fill, but it helps reduce the air pocket.
Keeping the system maintained is more important than a vac fill.
Vacfill is best, but it can be hard or not feasible for some. 2-3oz low is enough to make a difference in water condition.
Keep in mind, it isnt necessary to vac fill, but it helps reduce the air pocket.
Keeping the system maintained is more important than a vac fill.
Vacfill is best, but it can be hard or not feasible for some. 2-3oz low is enough to make a difference in water condition.
05-09-2017, 02:11 PM
#13
Supporting Vendor
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Bad Dad (05-11-2017)
05-09-2017, 04:12 PM
#14
Originally Posted by GSpeed
60-90 days. We have a stock car in for fitment and validation. 
05-09-2017, 09:42 PM
#15
Supporting Vendor
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Bad Dad (05-11-2017)
03-20-2018, 05:02 PM
#17
Supporting Vendor
With out getting into a long drawn out bunch of details, it was less prone to cavitation, but it was a sub par pump that offered no improvement in our eyes.
We focused on the tank solution, and water quality, while retaining the stock pump, which works very well.
We focused on the tank solution, and water quality, while retaining the stock pump, which works very well.
03-21-2018, 01:00 PM
#18
I cracked my intercooler on track and we had to replace it. Have had 2 issues after (about a year a part) where we had no power from the charger. On both occasions, we bleed what we could using this system and the car worked perfect afterwards.
One question I had is, I am assuming when everyone is referring to the “airpocket” they meaning the air pocket in the tank on the lower right front side of the car? Anyone have pics of how big or small that pocket should be? I would say my reservoir tank is about 95%. Full. It’s actaully less than what it was from the factory. I haven’t had any issues besides those two but wondering if I need to fill it up more.
One question I had is, I am assuming when everyone is referring to the “airpocket” they meaning the air pocket in the tank on the lower right front side of the car? Anyone have pics of how big or small that pocket should be? I would say my reservoir tank is about 95%. Full. It’s actaully less than what it was from the factory. I haven’t had any issues besides those two but wondering if I need to fill it up more.
03-21-2018, 01:32 PM
#19
Race Director
...I am assuming when everyone is referring to the “airpocket” they meaning the air pocket in the tank on the lower right front side of the car? Anyone have pics of how big or small that pocket should be? I would say my reservoir tank is about 95%. Full. It’s actaully less than what it was from the factory. I haven’t had any issues besides those two but wondering if I need to fill it up more. [/left]
If you see something like in the picture below, then you have waaayyy too much air in your CAC system and need to either have it vacuum filled, or you can do that procedure in the video posted up here on the forum. The pic below shows too much air:
.
03-21-2018, 02:33 PM
#20
Take a look at your intercooler reservoir - it should not have any more air in the top of it than the small bubbles you see in the picture below:
If you see something like in the picture below, then you have waaayyy too much air in your CAC system and need to either have it vacuum filled, or you can do that procedure in the video posted up here on the forum. The pic below shows too much air:
.
If you see something like in the picture below, then you have waaayyy too much air in your CAC system and need to either have it vacuum filled, or you can do that procedure in the video posted up here on the forum. The pic below shows too much air:
.