AVETTE

I am an intermediate level driver and am only getting 3 to 4 track days out of the 700 dollar front brake pads (550 wholesale plus shipping). This is insane. My Z51 stingray, whose pads were much smaller, lasted longer and were 1/4 the cost.

Is anyone here that has the GM carbon brakes that tracks getting similar results. If I don't upgrade to the upcoming new ZR1 I am thinking seriously about changing over to the AP Racing brakes with 25mm pads. Does anyone out there have experience with the AP Racing setup that replaces the CCB. Another positive of the AP setup is that the rears weigh less than the stock system and the fronts are only 2.5lbs per side heavier.

I was prepared for additional expense but this is stupid. 1 set of the gm pads for the CCB's lasted me 3 track days. At 6 or 700 a pop that is nuts

RandomTask

Are you performing the outgas/bedding process?

From my understanding you should be getting a solid season out of those setups. . .

range96

You may need rotors. As the rotors get used up the pad wear accelerates. You need to remove them and weigh them...

Also, check on Amazon, you will get better pricing...

BEZ06

NO WAY!!!

I got 2 days out of the last set of fronts!!!

I agree with checking the rotors. My rotors are looking kinda worn, so I need to get them off and weigh them, and probably replace them before my next event.

.

fleming23

Your experience is shared by many of us who run/ran CCBs. I swapped away from the CCBs and now have AP Racing front & rear. I never really liked how the Delco pads felt and there were very few options worth even trying. Endless is about the only pad that will last on track but will eat a burning hole in your wallet.

AVETTE

what is endless?

fleming23

http://speedfreaksusa.com/i-17833046...rrari-ccm.html

seamus2154

Welcome to the CCB club. Living with a C6Z I always laughed when guys started complaining about tire wear on the grandsport and how much the tires were, compared to their previous base vette. Welcome to the Zo6 world.! Now the c7 has the CCB option and the same story. Welcome to the Zo7 world. It ain't cheap to be the big guy on the block!!
I have had a Zo7 for a while now and after two sets of rotors(BIG MONEY) and many sets of pads, I gave up. The only great thing about these rotors is street use. No dust, look great, stop fantastic, and a conversation starter at gas stations and car events! Otherwise they suck and are stupid expensive as a consumable if you are tracking.
As we all find out the hard way, DONT TRACK THESE BRAKES, put them on the shelf and buy AP racing brakes, thats what I did! Hate to say it but the AP are better and cheaper to run. I call the CCB jewlery.

Bill Dearborn

I didn't have any performance issues with the CCBs but the replacement cost was outrageous. Is it better to spend $3300 for a set of front pads and rotors Vs $5200 for the Essex AP Racing brake kit? I think the Essex kit wins since the rotors will last at least as long 12 to 13 days but will cost less than half to replace. The pads are about the same price but should last 50% longer than the 6 days I was getting out of the stock pads.

The calculation for the rear is even easier to make. To replace rear pads and rotors you are looking at about $4100. The Essex kit costs $ 3800.

Bill

seamus2154

I bought the Zo7 because the brakes didnt need changing from street to track and found that to be convenient. They are awesome technology. But unless money doesnt matter to you, it just does not make sense if you intend to track your car. I fought it, but then realized why the Porsche guys immediately take them off and shelf them for when they sell the car. I wish I had done that prior to having to buy rotors again as it only added to my costs as I knew not to track them again, and bought AP racing brakes which are insanely great at the track. Bite the bullet as many of us have. Good luck

AVETTE

600 for the fronts only on pads, is that what the ap racing pads cost???

mcoomer

My plan right now is to run the CCBs until they die then go with the AP setup. As noted above, initial outlay is high but subsequent replacements will be less.

Mike

seamus2154

About 400 for Carbotech and ferrodo. But last much longer as do the rotors.

jvp

One of the great things about the OEM pads on the CCB system is that they're good for a very wide range of temperatures once burnished properly. They'll work if it's freezing cold out, and they'll work at the track.

Are there pads folks are using with the aftermarket kits that are similar in bandwidth? Or are people swapping pads as part of their track prep?

seamus2154

If your rotors havent suffered any evaporation yet I would pull them now and put the AP brakes on. Reason being is the AP brakes still get great money used and you can recoup the cost if you sell the car by putting the CCB back on as the Porsche guys do. Wish I had done that prior because your just adding the cost of new CC rotors to the whole mix only to sell or trade the car. Just a thought…...

Batman 357

I'm nervious now boys. I did 35 of the 50 burnish stops. Did a serious track day. Brakes feel good but pads are whitish about half way to the base. Do the CCB pads wear away like regular pads or fade off.

BEZ06

The pads should have that whitish look after burnishing.

The pads wear down and lose thickness just like the pads on a cast iron brake setup.

The rotors have a minimum thickness and a minimum weight posted on the bell, but mine haven't lost any thickness - they only seem to lose weight.

.

thebishman

The CCB rotors oxidize when 'worn' so the correct way to measure when you need to replace them is to weigh them. When they're below the minimum weight they need to go.

I firmly believe that increased amounts of heat placed into the rotor when the pad thickness is low contributes to increased oxidation, so I replace the pads when they're down to 1/3rd remaining thickness for track purposes. You can always pop a worn pad back in for street purposes until they get down further than 1/3rd. Just don't always rely on the wear sensors to warn you when the pads are toast, and never assume that the inner pad looks as 'good' as the outer pad during a visual inspection.

Bish

jvp

Not quite. You're both referencing 2 different things that are both caused by heat.

1. The rotor surface oxidizes due to heat. Once this happens to the surface, the rotor will act as sand paper for the pad and obliterate the pads faster. The rotor is still good to use in this condition, but, again, you'll wear your pads down much faster.

2. The rotor literally evaporates from the inside out. This is also due to heat and is the primary technical reason for needing to replace them.

Again: an oxidized rotor surface is perfectly usable and will continue to function fine. It will just wear down the pads a lot faster. Clearly that's not ideal, so if you decide to swap the rotors at that point, it's up to you.

LagunaSecaZ06

Bish,
Thanks for your response about replacing the pads when 2/3 worn (1/3) remaining. I was just going to ask that question. I have three track days, and 8,000 miles on my CCB pads and about 1/3 left. I was going to risk a 4th track day, and bring a fresh set with me to change at the track. It would not be that fun to change pads at the track. I agree with your thinking that if the pads get too low, it probably contributes to greater rotor wear. I was going through stock pads on my 2013 ZL1 every two trackdays. Laguna Seca and Thunderhill both have 140MPH straights so having a little extra meat in the pads is probably a good idea(although expensive). I just bought the pads from Amazon for $449.

Thanks again.