jdmdohcpower

I boiled motul 660 twice at WGI this weekend. Went up with new fluid and cooked it and had to flush again with 660 and cooked in 1 session with a soft pedal 10 min in.
Looking for the best replacement for track purposes

SRF
Torque
Endless

fleming23

Any of the above, but only one of those. I've used Torque and liked it as much as SRF but they had some pretty major supply issues a year or two ago. SRF is tried and tested. I will continue to use it.

thebishman

This won't be close

TrackAire

Although all brands listed are good, I'm wondering if you have some other issue to cause the Motul to boil that quick. I've used Motul 600, Torque and SRF....never had a boil or soft pedal issue with either.

I have heard of calipers getting uber hot if they are getting hung up or the traction control system is kicking in too much. Any chance of a mechanical issue contributing to this?

Let us know what you find out.

Bill Dearborn

The dry boiling point on that fluid is 617 degrees if you boiled it you more than likely would have boiled the others. SRF only has a 590 degree dry boiling point its claim to fame is a 518 degree wet boiling point which is useless if you are looking for as high of a dry boiling point as you can get. Maybe your containers weren't sealed properly and the fluid was already compromised with moisture when you put it in the system.

You need to look somewhere else for why it boiled. Air supply to the brakes, pad thickness, which pads you were using, etc. When I was there 10 days ago I was using Ferodo Brake Fluid and have successfully used Wilwood 600 Plus EXP there. The Ferodo did very well at VIR this last weekend.

Bill

jdmdohcpower

rear pads were low but fluid was from new bottles.
Pads seem to have worn evenly so I dont see any other issues there. I was told that the wet boiling point is the most important number on the brake fluid bottle. SRF has the highest but I always just looked at dry. Going to try srf but never had this issue anywhere else and wont be back to the glen for a while

BEZ06

I used to use Motul RBF 600 with great results. But it required getting new fluid flushed in a couple times during the season.

I switched to Castrol SRF a couple years ago, and I run it all season with only minor bleeds every 2 or 3 events when I'm swapping in some fresh pads.

I'm gonna stick with the SRF!!

BTW - I flushed in SRF a year ago before my first track event in the car, the NCM HPDE at VIR.

I just flushed in new SRF this morning, so I'm good to go for another year! I'll probably get in about 12-15 track days in the next year.

Below is a picture of my Motive Power Bleeder when I was flushing Castrol SRF into my old C6 Z06 a few years ago. I used it again today to flush in fresh SRF into my C7 Z06. I don't put fluid into it - basically any left over fluid in the jug is garbage, so I just use the Motive for pressure. After each caliper I need to add fluid to the reservoir (actually, after the right rear is 1/2 done I add fluid to the reservoir - the other calipers don't need to be bled quite as much). Today it took 1 liter of SRF, then I needed a few more ounces to bring the level up in the reservoir.



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cvp33

SRF. Dry boiling points are just chest-pounding for us mere mortals. Consider all cars that are street driven to have 'wet' fluid. Never had an issue, flush once per year, bleed in between.

ElCid79

When you change your fluid immediately before an event dry boiling point is important.


Brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning that it absorbs water.

The wet wet boiling point comes into play after it is either installed in the system or the bottle is open and it starts to absorb moisture. The rate at which it becomes "wet" is dependent upon too many variables to eyeball. How often do you change your fluid? How long had it been installed. Did you bleed the ABS system at the same time?

****It is possible that you had the oem fluid in the abs system and managed to lockup your brakes a little. If you expelled that regular fluid it would boil instantly under track conditions.

I agree with Bill on this one. Sounds like something else is going on.

FYREANT

Please don't take this the wrong way, but how much track experience do you have? Novice level drivers tend to "ride the brakes" for far too long on the track causing the fluid to boil much sooner than it should..

jdmdohcpower

The fluid was new before going up there as I said before. Whenever I do a full flush I go to a gravel parking lot and get the abs to kick a few times then bleed again. I bleed them after every few events there after which is about once a month
As for my experience, I think the 2.06 time at the glen says I'm not a novice

Greg00Coupe

I agree. If you brake in the turns you are doing it wrong!!! Also jump over to the track section of the forum for more topics around this.

Poor-sha

I mentioned this before I think it might have gotten missed. I'd try another type of pad. RS4EVA had the same issue with XP20 pads and I believe in his case it was only an issue when running those pads.

Like others have said, I would just spend the extra tank of gas worth of money and put SRF in. Also, I'd put the 2017 additional brake scoops on if you haven't already as they seem to help.

I'm curious why everyone is suddenly critiquing your driving. On most slower corners I brake all the way to the apex. It allows you to carry more speed longer and helps the car turn.

Mordeth

I've boiled Motul 600 at WGI in my C6Z on Carbotech 24 pads/OEM calipers once pads got low. Switched to SRF and installed some cooling ducts and no issues. As for those criticizing your driving - ignore them. 2:06s at WGI are superb times. I turn 2:07s -2:08s in built C6Z in the advanced groups and I'm hauling. I also trail brake a few turns. Try SRF, ducts and fresh pads.

thebishman

Not sure if you're talking to me, but I've been driving in HPDE's since 1995, and in the Advanced run group pretty much all of that time. I am not what you'd call a 'novice'.
Bish

thebishman

Are you familiar with the term 'Trail Braking'? If not, look it up.
Bish

FYREANT

I was not actually referring to anyone, but rather "asking" the OP. He clarified that he is not a noob, and that was all the info I was looking for. No foul play..

jdmdohcpower

Its called trail braking and its deff not wrong. Its loading the wheel with weight thats turning the car. You're statement makes it obvious who is wrong

jdmdohcpower

Thanks for the info guys. Like I said I never had an issue before the Glen so I doubt Ill see it again but new pads and SRF on the way
Ducts and backers already on there.

jdmdohcpower

I saw RS4EVA's calipers in person at our dealer. I dont know how the hell that happened. They were melted down, I mean the cast material of the caliper was melted. To say he drove so hard that the calipers couldn't handle it, i dont know never seen something like that before. Also we're they CCB's?