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Old 07-14-2017, 05:07 PM
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How did this get stickied so quickly, but the Road Course Lap Times thread took over 2 months?

Just curious because I know the guy who originally started that thread had worked on getting it stickied forever and it took a while.
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by four0nefive View Post
How did this get stickied so quickly, but the Road Course Lap Times thread took over 2 months?

Just curious because I know the guy who originally started that thread had worked on getting it stickied forever and it took a while.
The quickest way is to hit the report button and make a request or PM a Mod for the section in question direct
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Old 07-15-2017, 01:15 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by four0nefive View Post
How did this get stickied so quickly, but the Road Course Lap Times thread took over 2 months?

Just curious because I know the guy who originally started that thread had worked on getting it stickied forever and it took a while.
To answer the question asked I'm not certain. However, it's possible the process is expedited to just one day when the person starting the thread is a moderator and has the ability to sticky their own thread.

Last edited by rikhek; 07-15-2017 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:42 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by rikhek View Post
To answer the question asked I'm not certain. However, it's possible the process is expedited to just one day when the person starting the thread is a moderator and has the ability to sticky their own thread.
Once again please keep your off topic related comments to messages. Anyone can get a sticky via the process I outlined as soon as someone sees the request and reviews it meets the guidelines. The OP is not even the one who requested the sticky so no way to know what occurred. How about Go enjoy your car! FYI - I had to ask twice to get this
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:03 AM
  #45  
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2017 Torch Red, A8, 10,000km.

There was a dark spot on the passenger rear trunk lid (the flat part on the side). I have informed the dealer and they say they will fix it but I'm thinking of it more like a birthmark and likely wont have them fix it and leave it original. There was a chip at the rear drivers side body panel and rear fender joint which is not a big deal; I just hit it with some touch-up paint.

The the drivers side pedal area gets quite hot after driving for longer periods of time. Again, not a huge issue with windows open or AC on and don't think there is much they can do about that.

In certain light the body panel alignment isn't good. Again, not a big issue, I just don't drive towards the sun when its about to set or rise This is more for the people staring at the car. It doesn't bother me.

The car is solid and I am a very happy customer at this point.

Last edited by Psyence; 07-15-2017 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Re-wording!
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Old 07-15-2017, 01:23 PM
  #46  
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Two days old and this thread already contains a ton of useful information. Once it's really established, it will be a go to type thread for learning about and discussing issues that come up with the car. Thanks OP.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:30 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by DebRedZR1 View Post
If you OWN or have OWNED a Z06 that experienced more than MINOR issues
Please list year of the car, A8/M7, Z07 package/Stage and your location, Briefly list Issue(s) , if still occuring, dealer resolved ( how many fixes involved) , buyback/ lemoned etc.
Please confine your replies to the Subject and please no bashing. This is an information thread, have requested a sticky so we can monitor issues.
2016 A8 /07 option
Love the car
1) Overheating at the track. 3 laps and it goes into limp mode(85 ambient temps). Surprised that GM did not address that issue since it has been going on now for over 2 years. No one has really stated (that I know of) what is the root cause of the problem. I changed the radiator to a DeWitts and the charge air cooler to a DeWitts but have not changed the oil cooler yet. Other friends have and they still overheat.
Then come to find out that Tadge stated that there is a deficiency in the supercharger cooling transfer. I am not convinced that is the only problem. Review G Speed extensive research on this issue.
2) Front right brake sensor wire incorrectly mounted and allows wire to become intermittent (I guess) indicating excessive worn brake (no indication which brake from the driver displayed info). My dealer fixed wire and ordered a new wire to replace (warranty). Will put it on next trip.
3) Had a rattle in the dash which was repaired under warranty. Then developed a rattle in the roof which I think was just the fastening lever being loose, I fixed. Now I have a rattle on the right side front of the roof where it is not held down tight enough. That is going in for repair next week, any adjustment for that must be in the area at the top of the windshield as there is no adjustment in the roof panel.
4) Have a blister in the Right Rear wheelhouse on the front part of the liner, suspect it is related to overheating on the other side of the liner as the Left side has no problem. Saw a 2017 GS with this same problem and only on the right side. Can't tell what unit is in front of it (even in the manuals - lots to review there).

Signed up for the class action lawsuit, just want my car to work like the "track ready" corvette that it was advertised as.

5) One of the problems that can cause limp mode too, is the supercharger coolant reservoir not being bled off enough (too much air). If the pump cavitates it automatically shuts down for 3 minutes which causes overheating in the engine and then you go into limp mode. Review G Speed info on this issue on Corvette Forum.

I will say that all that I have read indicates that they built a beautiful car but never tested it on the track, because if they did then they would have known that it could not run hard for any length of time. There is just not enough cooling capacity in the system. If they new then they were negligent in selling the car with the problem.

I do not notice any problem with A/C and seat cooling... They work fine for me (so far). I do not run the A/C at the track, I would probably only get two laps out if it.
10k miles
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:15 PM
  #48  
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Default 2015 ZO6 Owner response to question

Originally Posted by DebRedZR1 View Post
If you OWN or have OWNED a Z06 that experienced more than MINOR issues
Please list year of the car, A8/M7, Z07 package/Stage and your location, Briefly list Issue(s) , if still occuring, dealer resolved ( how many fixes involved) , buyback/ lemoned etc.
Please confine your replies to the Subject and please no bashing. This is an information thread, have requested a sticky so we can monitor issues.
Supercharger Heat Soak. Resulting in dramatic reduction in Horsepower. With my 2015 ZO6 C7 Corvette.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:11 PM
  #49  
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2017 Z06 M7 2LT WGG 6000 miles

Happy to report no overheating after 2 track days
Seat Memory function works intermittently (always has), no rhyme or reason
Heated and cool function of both seats stopped working this week (comp seats)
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Old 07-18-2017, 04:36 PM
  #50  
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Default Drivers rearview mirror

Outside mirror has mottled like an antique mirror. Dealer is ordering a nw one. Only thing I can think of is that the heating element shorted out and 'burnt'??? the mirror coating?
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:24 PM
  #51  
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Lots of great info being posted, thanks to all, learning some things
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:25 PM
  #52  
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I found this video that might address the overheating issues slightly. I figured I'd share it w/the Zo6 community - (
)

Originally Posted by 2016Z07 View Post
2016 A8 /07 option
Love the car
1) Overheating at the track. 3 laps and it goes into limp mode(85 ambient temps). Surprised that GM did not address that issue since it has been going on now for over 2 years. No one has really stated (that I know of) what is the root cause of the problem. I changed the radiator to a DeWitts and the charge air cooler to a DeWitts but have not changed the oil cooler yet. Other friends have and they still overheat.
Then come to find out that Tadge stated that there is a deficiency in the supercharger cooling transfer. I am not convinced that is the only problem. Review G Speed extensive research on this issue.
2) Front right brake sensor wire incorrectly mounted and allows wire to become intermittent (I guess) indicating excessive worn brake (no indication which brake from the driver displayed info). My dealer fixed wire and ordered a new wire to replace (warranty). Will put it on next trip.
3) Had a rattle in the dash which was repaired under warranty. Then developed a rattle in the roof which I think was just the fastening lever being loose, I fixed. Now I have a rattle on the right side front of the roof where it is not held down tight enough. That is going in for repair next week, any adjustment for that must be in the area at the top of the windshield as there is no adjustment in the roof panel.
4) Have a blister in the Right Rear wheelhouse on the front part of the liner, suspect it is related to overheating on the other side of the liner as the Left side has no problem. Saw a 2017 GS with this same problem and only on the right side. Can't tell what unit is in front of it (even in the manuals - lots to review there).

Signed up for the class action lawsuit, just want my car to work like the "track ready" corvette that it was advertised as.

5) One of the problems that can cause limp mode too, is the supercharger coolant reservoir not being bled off enough (too much air). If the pump cavitates it automatically shuts down for 3 minutes which causes overheating in the engine and then you go into limp mode. Review G Speed info on this issue on Corvette Forum.

I will say that all that I have read indicates that they built a beautiful car but never tested it on the track, because if they did then they would have known that it could not run hard for any length of time. There is just not enough cooling capacity in the system. If they new then they were negligent in selling the car with the problem.

I do not notice any problem with A/C and seat cooling... They work fine for me (so far). I do not run the A/C at the track, I would probably only get two laps out if it.
10k miles
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:53 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by DebRedZR1 View Post
Lots of great info being posted, thanks to all, learning some things
Next, maybe you can find solutions.
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Old 07-19-2017, 08:58 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by djnice View Post
Next, maybe you can find solutions.
That's the goal. The General is aware!
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Old 07-22-2017, 10:28 AM
  #55  
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Third trip to the dealer for A/C issues. They say it's fine and want me to buy window tint. It's not fine. It's a D to C-. Not accepatable for a 100k car with a small interior volume.
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Old 07-23-2017, 04:42 PM
  #56  
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Default seats

Originally Posted by MRHTRD View Post
2016 M7 Z06 / Z07 -

Power steering overheat on the track going into a turn.......steering pretty much locked up. GM had a bulletin and a fix.... that I had to pay for!

A/C - Not as cold as my other vehicles and the seat is cool but not cold on a hot day.

Low Power mode day before yesterday while backing out of the garage. Put it away and will deal with it next week (busy). Go figure. Never happened on the track, just backing out of my garage. That is certain to instill confidence in the product !!

Forgot to mention - most irritating thing about my Z is the seat adjustment. For crying out loud can't we just use a set button and have it move automatically when we get into the car and out if the car?
I get in, push the seat button to get the seat close enough so that I can push the clutch down to start, and as soon as I hit the start button my seat starts going backward......What a FPITA !!! I have to keep my finger on the seat button to stop it from moving back.

Worst part of this is that Chevrolet recognizes this problem and "warns you in advance" in a letter that they sent out to users after the fact. Are you freakin kidding me ? FIX THE DAMN PROBLEM !!!!!
All in all, I love the car !! But come on people, we don't need these little issues in a $110K car !!!!

ummm... if you have the recall buttons on the door then the problem is with the user. it sounds like you have you seats SET to the wrong position. From what i read, you need to actually SET THE POSITION you want the seats in and SAVE them to the number buttons on the door... holding the button down without first pressing set ERASES the seat memory and sends it to its default position allowing you to reset the set position from scratch. the little number on your keyless remote corresponds to the seat position buttons you your door. get in your car with the power on...get the seat into the position you want, press the set button, then press and hold the number on the door corresponding to the number on top of the keyless remote until you hear two beeps. you might need to check your options on your touch screen menu, there is a section labeled vehicle and in it you will find seat options that has "easy exit" that sets action of the seat at the moment of door opening, car start, and power off. read your owners manual.
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Old 07-24-2017, 03:23 PM
  #57  
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2016 A8 here.

Windshield washer pump failed and had to be replaced. Apart from that, pretty solid for now (knock on wood).

With regard to overheating (or lack thereof) -
Ran the car really hard through the backroads of MD this last weekend where it was really hot and humid (93-95). The Oil temp never hovered above 233 at the very worst. On average, it was 215 to 219'. I manually shifted the car during the drive and never put it in D mode. I had the AC and Cooled seats on the entire time. Had no front plates on either which I am sure helped with airflow.

Mods on the car to date -

- DEI Thermal CAT wrap.
- Katech Ported Throttle Body
- BMS Air Filter

Last edited by Checkmate1; 07-24-2017 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:07 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Blake Castille View Post
ummm... if you have the recall buttons on the door then the problem is with the user. it sounds like you have you seats SET to the wrong position. From what i read, you need to actually SET THE POSITION you want the seats in and SAVE them to the number buttons on the door... holding the button down without first pressing set ERASES the seat memory and sends it to its default position allowing you to reset the set position from scratch. the little number on your keyless remote corresponds to the seat position buttons you your door. get in your car with the power on...get the seat into the position you want, press the set button, then press and hold the number on the door corresponding to the number on top of the keyless remote until you hear two beeps. you might need to check your options on your touch screen menu, there is a section labeled vehicle and in it you will find seat options that has "easy exit" that sets action of the seat at the moment of door opening, car start, and power off. read your owners manual.
The seats took me some getting used to, you have to set the exit and driving positions. Sometimes I manually move the seat forward to the clutch or you can HOLD the button in and it will get everything to your set position. It's a learning curve. Every vehicle is different.
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:56 PM
  #59  
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Hi all, newly registered user but not new to forums. Now is as good time as any I guess to post as I'm looking into info about certain issues. I've googled and this forum is usually the first that pops up for info. A few issues that range from minor to somewhat major, in order of the events. Any info on this or follow ups is greatly appreciated:

2016 3LZ A8. Purchased end of August 2016 and currently has just over 1600 miles...

1) misfires in cylinder 1 and 3. When driving it later in the summer last year the CEL flashed at me (was doing more aggressive throttle pulls, but wasn't hammering on the throttle either). Had the 500 mile oil change conveniently scheduled so bad them look at it. Some misfires on cylinder #1 and over 150 misfires on cylinder #3. They cleared the codes and so far so good I think- took it in last week for oil change #2. Google search shows that possibly the plug wires are shat from the factory.

2) squeak/rattle coming from the clear price in front of the instrument panel/gauges. This car I have to admit seems to be VERY solid regarding squeaks and rattles, outside this issue. I also had them check into this at the 500 mile service. Apparently the tech put in some felt surroundings inside the cluster but didn't help any. I know iths the front clear part of the cluster (or something attached to it) since it doesn't rattle or squeak when I put my back hand on it driving over bumps. (Back hand keeps from getting finger prints on it)

3) hope this isn't a sign of things to come, but rear diff has ring/pinion whine. Sometimes it's noticeable, sometimes not as much. Had anoil change scheduled a week ago and had them look into it. Tech confirmed diff whine and it's operation is scheduled for early August to replace diff.

Any info on the above, thanks in advance. Will post more in the future.
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:17 PM
  #60  
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Krazy,

1 - definitely check plug wires. They may be loose, not fully connected, or they may simply need replaced.

2. Can't help you on that one - haven't seen that reported or the fix. Sounds like a patient testing/trying the felt buffer, which they seem to be doing.

3. This has been reported on a few cars. The fix is having the rear diff replaced with a new one, which fixes the issue. A small percentage of rear diffs appear to have gotten the internal ring and pinion gears set up incorrectly at the point of manufacture/assemble by the supplier.
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