jdmdohcpower

Anyone have any ideas how to get the T 30 out? It's starting to strip and doesn't seem to have any give at all. It already twisted the head of my bit and beginning to do the same on another one

dmaxx3500

you need a hand impact driver,,but first try hitting the socket with a hammer,you need to shock it -to break it free

NSC5

I have found with these T series fasteners that a good impact socket is needed EVEN when you aren't using an impact wrench. A decent impact wrench will help since all you have to concentrate on is keeping the wrench solidly on the fastener while the hammering action of the impact breaks it loose.

I am not a fan of this style of fastener head and they are a problem on some of the older GM 2500/3500 series pickup truck brakes.

jdmdohcpower

Ill try the hammer approach. Dont have an impact driver. (at least not yet)

NSC5

If the hammer doesn't work buy an impact wrench, you will find it VERY handy in the future.

I first experienced the joy of using an impact wrench to change the three blades on the finishing mower mounted to my Deere tractor. What had been a major pain turned into a less than 5 minute job. There is no way I could have changed the pads on my GMC 2500HD pickup last year without an impact wrench to break loose the fasteners.

dmaxx3500

''DO NOT-DO NOT'' use an air /battery impact on this,you need to go buy new bolts too after this


you can rent a ''hand impact driver'' that you hit with a hammer from any parts store,or go to harbor freight and buy a $10 one

Warp Factor

Agreed. I've removed multiple fasteners tightened the same, in the same application, and incorporating impact has always proven to be much more successful.

When the loosening torque is high enough to require an air impact wrench, I'll typically start at a very low air pressure, and work my way up, until the muthah comes loose.

Sending shock waves through a fastener will accomplish things that a steady application of torque just won't do.

rikhek

Just did mine this past weekend with same issue on the first side I did. It was stripping using a socket. Hand impact driver hit with a hammer got it out. Had to tap the torx in lightly with a hammer prior to impact to get as much surface contact as possible.

On the second side I did not try the socket first. Tapped the torx on and hit it with the hand impact and came free on first hit. Then used ratchet/socket to remove.

I did not reinstall them. They are not needed. Only there as a convenience to keep the rotor flush when wheels are off. Once rotors are on for a while they stay put without the torx.

jdmdohcpower

got it, I know not a gun for lugs which I have. Dont have an impact drill if you will. My neighbor does so just need to see if he has the t30 when he gets home or if I need to grab one. Also ordered new bolts already

Thx guys hope it works

Bill Dearborn

One of mine stripped to the point I had to drill it out. Once the drill bit got in a short distance on the side of the screw it suddenly came loose and I was able to spin it out the back side of the hub. Damaged the rotor hat a little but not enough to worry about. Once the suckers were out they weren't replaced. The rotor stays on the hub just fine with wheel in place.

Bill

BaylorCorvette

Yup, I agree. Also the same thing happened to my old ZL1 front rotor, head stripped and I had a field day chasing it. Ended up not even using that bolt and like you said, no issue doing so.

spearfish25

Some cars don't use these at all. It's more of a convenience holder screw that becomes an inconvenience. The rotor isn't going anywhere with the caliper in place and wheel bolted on the studs.