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Anyone using Eibach Lowering bolts?? (Z07)

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Old 02-17-2018, 09:52 PM   #41
Jsilvester81
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Originally Posted by timmyZ06 View Post
funny how a 1/4 cut bushing is changing geometry!! Geometry isnt suposed to change for the travel from top to bottom, unless there is linkage to do so! Now, that 1/4 cutted of the bushing will reduce travel by ...1/4. Is it the absolute best thing, not really, are you going to notice a decrease on bumping absorbtion, less travel causing bottoming out, a pro racer sure, a novice rider, hell no! Liquid displacement inside the shock remains the same, the only difference is the lost of the travel by 1/4 of the cutted bushing. Leaf arent pressured more in any ways! So if trying to feel better about your 3K wasted litteraly only for LOOK!! If you were going to track the hell out of the car, then it would be another story! Try rationalise it the way you want, but stop telling all kind of stuff, that you clearly dont understand to others! BTW I would never do aftermarket bolts, because THOSE are taking away too much travels! there is a margin between 1/4 to 1/2 to almost a full inch less! Suspension stiffness is dedicated but stifness of the spring(leaf) and damping and rebound is controlled by valvings, oil viscosity pistons, bypass and much more with the MRC. There is a lot of good reads about, you should take a look!

Timmyz06

i am happy with my car on drop spindles, sorry that effects you.

cutting bushings was never part of the OP


have a good day timmyz06 Boom!!!
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Old 02-17-2018, 10:00 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by timmyZ06 View Post
funny how a 1/4 cut bushing is changing geometry!! Geometry isnt suposed to change for the travel from top to bottom, unless there is linkage to do so! Now, that 1/4 cutted of the bushing will reduce travel by ...1/4. Is it the absolute best thing, not really, are you going to notice a decrease on bumping absorbtion, less travel causing bottoming out, a pro racer sure, a novice rider, hell no! Liquid displacement inside the shock remains the same, the only difference is the lost of the travel by 1/4 of the cutted bushing. Leaf arent pressured more in any ways! So if trying to feel better about your 3K wasted litteraly only for LOOK!! If you were going to track the hell out of the car, then it would be another story! Try rationalise it the way you want, but stop telling all kind of stuff, that you clearly dont understand to others! BTW I would never do aftermarket bolts, because THOSE are taking away too much travels! there is a margin between 1/4 to 1/2 to almost a full inch less! Suspension stiffness is dedicated but stifness of the spring(leaf) and damping and rebound is controlled by valvings, oil viscosity pistons, bypass and much more with the MRC. There is a lot of good reads about, you should take a look!
That's the problem. Deal with the 3/4 inch max drop with cut bushings or get the drop you want past that with AM bolts or spindles or coilovers. Pro's and con's with all of them.
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Old 02-17-2018, 10:15 PM   #43
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After 2 days of driving, I can't tell much of a difference in ride quality versus stock....

Lowered my C6 Z06 the same way and drove it 3 years / 30k miles with no issues.
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Old 02-17-2018, 10:44 PM   #44
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My ride quality did not change when I went with AF bolts 4 years ago from stock height when it was like a jeep.
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Old 02-18-2018, 02:10 AM   #45
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Exactly how do I retain the original rake of the car when cutting the bushings?
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:47 AM   #46
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Silvester81 your car looks menacing. Especially in that first pic at night.

If I liked to burn money or had endless sums of it, I’d go with spindles. But lowering on stock bolts myself for free vs $3-4k I gotta go with lowering on stock bolts. If they wear out in 10k miles (which would be like 5yrs for me) I’ll just replace with more stock bolts
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:54 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Jsilvester81 View Post



Timmyz06

i am happy with my car on drop spindles, sorry that effects you.

cutting bushings was never part of the OP


have a good day timmyz06 Boom!!!
you're funny dude!
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:40 AM   #48
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Silvester81 your car looks menacing. Especially in that first pic at night.

If I liked to burn money or had endless sums of it, Id go with spindles. But lowering on stock bolts myself for free vs $3-4k I gotta go with lowering on stock bolts. If they wear out in 10k miles (which would be like 5yrs for me) Ill just replace with more stock bolts
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:35 PM   #49
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After 2 days of driving, I can't tell much of a difference in ride quality versus stock....

Lowered my C6 Z06 the same way and drove it 3 years / 30k miles with no issues.
That's lowered? Still looks stock.
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Old 02-18-2018, 01:35 PM   #50
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That's lowered? Still looks stock.
Stock was really high
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Old 02-18-2018, 01:45 PM   #51
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Stock was really high
I see!

Wow! If that's acceptable, by all means, don't spend any more. It's those that want next to no gap that need to go the next step and make that big decision.
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Old 02-18-2018, 04:07 PM   #52
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my next step was AF bolts and it got me this 9 times cheaper then dropped spindles




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Old 02-18-2018, 04:13 PM   #53
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That's lowered? Still looks stock.
Stock is like a Jeep 4x4.
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Old 02-18-2018, 05:12 PM   #54
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Stock is like a Jeep 4x4.
it really is!! How come GM did this, this is no WRC car!!!
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Old 02-18-2018, 08:28 PM   #55
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it really is!! How come GM did this, this is no WRC car!!!
It's frickin' ridiculous....
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Old 02-19-2018, 01:44 AM   #56
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my next step was AF bolts and it got me this 9 times cheaper then dropped spindles


That's lower than where I was and then a leaked shock along with shitty traction steered me astray.







Maybe MRC shocks react differently when compressed to ****. Even Lou's road race car isn't slammed that much because it's important to have some travel remain. Just as DSC recommends stock ride height. I wanted something in between. I think it was a valid, although expensive solution lowering as much as AM bolts could without compromising shock integrity and handling characteristics practiced by experienced racers.

I ended up raising it up a half in. because I was scraping up my driveway and work garage. Also, wheel offsets stick out a bit further so tucking is difficult on stock PSS tires. I just got some Nitto Invo's yesterday that are a bit rounded instead of squared so i'm revisiting LG this Fri. to see about lowering back down a quarter inch with a bit more negative camber to try and tuck the fronts in a bit.

This is where it sits now.


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Old 02-19-2018, 01:27 PM   #57
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Honestly you really cannot blame being lowered as the cause for a shock to leak. There was a forum member on the other forum where he had his shock replaced due to leaking when his car was at a 4x4 level. Things just break, it happens in life.
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Old 02-19-2018, 02:06 PM   #58
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Honestly you really cannot blame being lowered as the cause for a shock to leak. There was a forum member on the other forum where he had his shock replaced due to leaking when his car was at a 4x4 level. Things just break, it happens in life.


A lot of people have that misconception, a shock wont be more ''pressed regardless where is placed in is stroke course. Spring or leaf will be pressed! Confusing coilovers usually shitty ''drop aftermarket springs or worse yet, cutted OEM springs! THIS is why you shouldn't cheap out on suspension, and get real coilovers to do it right! But with corvette leafs suspension set-up, its a whole different game! Regardless of the bolts length, Leafs wont be compressed at all! and shocks doesnt compressed oil in it, its jaut a series of bypasses throught valves, pistons and ETC that will ''slow down'' strokes of the pistons itself, hence damping and rebound. Magnetic shock are basically electronic oils that could change viscosity! Its a very ruff explanations, but you get the point!
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