3 Z06ZR1

Seems the factory 1.7 has two brass air bleed screws at a high point already on each line you have over looked them.

Mikec7z

If you would take a factory blower apart and look at it, you will find that these brass fitings are not higher than the coolant bricks, and you would also find that air gets trapped in the coolant bricks as there is a low point in the system between the bricks and the brass fittings, and you would also find, that these fittings are not a reservoir to catch air at its highest point since they are just bleed fittings on a high flow speed line, and you will find if you DID try to put an air res attached to either of the factory ports, it would likely not be in a position to capture or grab air as fluid and air bubbles flowing through that line is flowing very fast velocity, where as when the bubbles go through the bricks, the channels they pass through are thin, which kind of catches the bubbles like a vice from 2 sides. Thus, why the air settles in the bricks, not to mention, the bricks are the highest point in the system.

The air capture res I am speaking of, needs to ensure the bricks NEVER have caught air, standing in the top of the bricks.

Mikec7z

If you can ask Ben what the largest pulley is that can be put on this blower, that would turn down its power. It looks to me like there wont be any clearance issues running a larger pulley on the blower, but i could be wrong.

That is my plan, buy this blower eventually with power turned down so that I can keep up on fueling until i feel i understand the system well enough and the tune well enough to start moving up in fueling capacity and thus power.

Spinning it slower makes MUCH LESS heat than our current setups being over-spun.

This means the timing can be advanced in the engine to make more power as the intake charge will be cooler.

All that being the case... you still have the cut of the window cowl to deal with.

Here are my thoughts...

Its my opinion that the last 2 cylinders by the window, being the first to overheat, on many cars on this forum, which causes knock/predetonation, and thus pulls timing and thus pulls power from the engine....

my opinion of why these last 2 cylinders are the first to get knock... is due to the location and architecture of the bricks. Chevy and everyone else has to keep them as far forward as possible.

Whipples system was not designed around the vette, therefore the bricks locations are not compromised. They WILL keep the back 2 cylinders more cool than other blowers, apples to apples, and thus a person will run safer with more power.

Thats why the windsheild cowl needs to be cut. Tradeoffs, but if I am keeping the car for a while, this is one i would be happy to make.

3 Z06ZR1

You don't need to take it apart. If you did you would see this which is a much bigger issue than your trying to drum up.
Oil debris clogging and

coated intercooler from the factory PVC hurt more than the non issue your reaching for.


I'm going to all 2300 Here is the 2300 inside Looks to have really nice great cooling. I put one on and it runs cooler temps and cooler ITA"S . I think your making a mountain out of a mole hill!

Mikec7z

i saw your thread of the oil a while back. That sucks huh. I check my blower from time to time, all is well.

Anyway that is a good photo of the cooling bricks in the 2300... it looks as tho they DO have the collector at each end of the cooling brick, so one could port the windshield side of the brick, and have a hard line coming out of the blower.

I had a couple good plans with the FLAT lt4 stock blower lid on how to have the bleed lines exit the blower lid and seal it up air tight. The 2300 and whipple, i would have to study, the curved tilted lids make my lt4 blower line escape idea through the lid, not so viable.

3 Z06ZR1

You would have to take the blower off and flip it over to see the intercooler issue. I'm adding the Mighty Mouse Solutions wild Catch can to both my builds
Keeps that oil debris and stuff out. Not sure why your worried about drilling the intercoolers? When it is really a non issue there is not a bunch of air in there hurting any cooling the liquid displaces the air and it is gone. Let them design the intercooler's they work great as they are. So much GM had them flat then tipped them for 2017 in the wrong direction to bleed air how did they do that?? They did that to get a cooler air charge to 7-8 which could be an issue on the 201-2016.

Mikec7z

Ironically, Drew, confirmed my suspicions of potential worse case scenario, just last night as a matter of fact...

i dont know if it happened to his car, or a friend of his' car... but someone's cooling bricks got melted he said, and they have to buy new ones. And they aren't cheap.

I asked how... and I already knew the answer... he went on to explain that the stock water pump for the blower's cooling system... when it shuts off for 3 min at a time... due to air around the pump, causing cavitation...

during that 3 min window, the blowers get scorching hot, and it literally can MELT the solder around the cooling bricks that they are constructed with, and they begin to fail and probably leak coolant and throw solder into the valves and chamber. Or maybe, they just burst as the fluid boils somehow. Either way, Fantastic huh?! lol...

Anyway... the root devil of all of this is AIR near the pump causing the cavitation. The only 2 spots the air slows down and separates well and collects, are in the stock/aftermarket res tanks... and also in the cooling bricks.

So, we need to get it out of the cooling bricks...

To keep air out of the system, the best possible way is to capture it at the system's highest point. So that's when the bricks become the target zone.

Then, as I explained yesterday... you can kill 4 birds with 1 stone...

1. you capture the air to keep it away from the water pump and eliminate 3 min off's from cavitation
2. you now have a perfect place to bleed the system from when you add more fluid to the stock fill port, and can push all the air out of the bricks via the new bleeder setup.
3. you now have a place to install a thermostat that tells you the literal temperature of the coolant inside your bricks. I would put it outside of the blower, but still, so it will be a 20 degrees or whatever lower maybe than inside, but the purpose is not to get an accurate reading, but more of a relativity reading, to know when the system is super hot, vs normal temp... and one could wire an alarm up to that thermostat/kit. Then you know your pump is doings its 3 min off thing, or its failed completely.
4. the cooling bricks operate optimally as they are filled with fluid all the way to their tops, instead of air.. so they do their job better at all times, even when the pump is on.

Some of us drive our cars really hard. These things happen to us, and not other people. So we go the extra mile.

3 Z06ZR1

I don't buy that last line!
People like LG who race the car add the cheek coolers. Then is other members who race with the 1.7 and the 2300 on the Z06. Doubt your running harder than any of those. First I have heard of this issue and doesn't Drew have the 2.9? Then your not sure if it was his car. I'm out on this subject total non issue and not worth the thought about air bubbles in the intercooler.
Good luck with that!

Mikec7z

Thank you

JHEBERT

Mikec7z

So that I don't clutter this thread any worse than I already have talking about how to get air out of ALL blowers, I came over here:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ed-points.html

Mikec7z

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...and-sport.html

https://www.autoblog.com/2018/07/23/...021&yptr=yahoo

How did they get it under the windshield cowl?

vetteZpilot

I think the photo with the whipple is actually from the camaro version.

Higgs Boson

from what I understand the yenko pic is just a mock-up. is there a video showing it running with it under the cowl or are we looking at vaporware?

Mikec7z

i agree with that. I am still curious to know if anyone knew what their plans are.

Ben@WeaponX

I've been following this for a little while and I'll be surprised if these really take off. While I agree the Yenko name did hold clout back in the day, it's been out of the public eye for a long time and I think this kind of price tag on top of a GS, will be a deal breaker for most, esp considering they're using available aftermarket parts, unlike say Callaway for example whom has a proprietary supercharger. But who knows, eyes of the beholder as the saying goes! Its never about what it's worth, but what it's worth to you. I would put money on the short though as far as them appreciating in value.

As for the fitment, that cowl is not OEM, my guess is they spaced the cradle down a little like we do and then did an aftermarket cowl; however, you can only lower it so much and the rest of that room would get taken up by the hood gasket since the hood is OEM and you're relying on the hood to absorb the stress. Look for a video of the hood opening and if it pops a foot off the cowl when pulling the lever, you'll have your answer. Either way cool car and love to see the innovation!

Mikec7z

i agree with what you are saying about it being out of the public eye for a long time...

however, the key here is that a person can order it from a GM dealership and GM endorses the order.

That is a HUGE deal on collect-ability, because now it is still a "production car" that is very rare. Don't ask me why it is a big deal down the road, but it always is.

and if they make less than 25, even better. Usually the most collectable cars are the overlooked, low production cars. Example, the HERTZ corvettes back in the day... they are worth a lot of money these days. They weren't faster, they were just rare. Then GM brought that back, and made a big deal out of it on the c6 or c5, i forget, but once a huge deal is made, its usually not going to be collectable, as people pay too much to begin with.

I am curious to see what front fascia they end up using. The stock nose is not going to cut it for cooling.

I would bet money that Hendrick has already spoken for #01 of 25, and will pay well for it, so i am pretty confident we will see these come to fruition. Jay leno might buy one... this is a car they will make phonecalls to a bunch of old guys with money, and personally invite them to be a part of... and with only 25 units made, they will buy them up. A couple will end up in the middle east, a couple in germany, etc.

Mikec7z

and rest assured, meanwhile, they are following you

Ben@WeaponX

Melted cooling bricks? Not buying that one as they're made from aluminum. For comparison purposes, even on one of my F1X cars, the blower outlet temps were 375* at 32psi, going through an air to air IC and post IC temps were under 100*, using the same type of AL. So, you're talking about a 275* heat exchange.

Aluminum does not melt until over 1220* F.
Water boils at 220*.
Dexcool 50:50 boils at 250*.
Distilled water boils at 212*.
The ABS Tmap sensor would melt at 221*.
If the system had an expansion tank, most caps reliever around 15psi.
Rubber gaskets around the intercooler bricks would melt over 350*.

The fatigue temperature of every other component in the system would be reached before the aluminum bricks would melt.

Removing air from the supercharger system is not difficult. Vacuum filling and pump cycling is all it takes. Think about how many LS and LT superchargers are out there making big power without issue, but this logic is being based around a couple of outliers. We rarely see temps over 130* on 20+ PSI Whipples with our heat exchangers and/or tank kits.

​​​​​​​Answer is simply installer error which happens to the best of us, and while I agree these systems could benefit from some simple bleed ports, they're not flawed to worry current owners.

Ben@WeaponX

lol