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Do I need new pads ????

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Old 11-13-2017, 07:30 PM   #1
TopSpeedNeed
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Default Do I need new pads ????

Was at VIR Labor day weekend, going through tech, was told I need new front pads. These pads are a little pricey, but if I need them, I need them, but these seem to be only about half worn. With nothing to compare them too, can somebody enlighten me if I need new pads, here is pics of both front.
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Old 11-13-2017, 08:54 PM   #2
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Was at VIR Labor day weekend, going through tech, was told I need new front pads. These pads are a little pricey, but if I need them, I need them, but these seem to be only about half worn. With nothing to compare them too, can somebody enlighten me if I need new pads, here is pics of both front.


Just for comparison, this is my 2016 with 45000 miles. (All street) Where did you get the indexing pin on the lug?
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Old 11-13-2017, 11:33 PM   #3
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Just for comparison, this is my 2016 with 45000 miles. (All street) Where did you get the indexing pin on the lug?
45K, Wow! Alright-A driver not a poser.
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:10 AM   #4
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45K, Wow! Alright-A driver not a poser.
I'm wondering the same thing since i as well have the CCB
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:13 AM   #5
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Just for comparison, this is my 2016 with 45000 miles. (All street) Where did you get the indexing pin on the lug?
You can buy them here. https://www.reverselogic.us/phone/index.html
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:52 AM   #6
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Just as a reference, I have just a little under 6K on mine, but my car is not a daily driver. I do about 5 or 6 HPDE's a year.
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:59 AM   #7
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Good rule of thumb... when the friction material on the pad is equal to or less than the thickness of the metal backing plate it's time to replace.
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Was at VIR Labor day weekend, going through tech, was told I need new front pads. These pads are a little pricey, but if I need them, I need them, but these seem to be only about half worn. With nothing to compare them too, can somebody enlighten me if I need new pads, here is pics of both front.
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Old 11-14-2017, 11:09 AM   #8
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Full disclosure-not a tracker-but have seen post of folks who do stating the pads/rotors heat up more rapidly with less pad & fading "may" become an issue. Track safety guys probably have no stock in brake pads, so they are just trying to keep something bad from happening to you & your car in the moment of hard braking (lots of that on track) to experience fade when expecting normal slowing or worse failure.

Last edited by madrob2020; 11-14-2017 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:02 PM   #9
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Your pads look fine for now. You’re gettin close.

Last edited by spearfish25; 11-14-2017 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:52 PM   #10
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Hey Tony

I agree with Alex - they look good for at least 1 track day, and expect you'd get 2 full days out of them at VIR.

Are you gonna be down to Daytona Dec 1-3 for the annual Audi HPDE? Hope to see you there. After VIR you'll definitely need a new set of pads for Daytona!!

Bob
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:46 PM   #11
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My rule of thumb with CCMs are replace the pads when they only have 1/3rd of the pad thickness left, as I consider that a ‘buffer’ to stop rotor damage/increased oxidation. Yours are close but you may get another track weekend out of them. However it depends on what kind of track you’re going to and how hard you use the brakes.
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:22 PM   #12
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They are good until the wear sensor turns on. Then you don't want to use them on track anymore. The wear sensor turns on when there is a fair amount of pad left (which gives the owner plenty of time to get the brakes replaced).

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Old 11-15-2017, 01:42 PM   #13
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They are good until the wear sensor turns on. Then you don't want to use them on track anymore. The wear sensor turns on when there is a fair amount of pad left (which gives the owner plenty of time to get the brakes replaced).

Bill
My front wear sensors were 'vaporized' by the heat of the CCMs and wouldn't have warned me even when down to the backing plates Bill. I'd always recommend visually checking the pads by taking them out if necessary, especially the inner pads. That's a damn site cheaper than buying new CCM rotors.

Bish
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Old 11-15-2017, 03:05 PM   #14
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My front wear sensors were 'vaporized' by the heat of the CCMs and wouldn't have warned me even when down to the backing plates Bill. I'd always recommend visually checking the pads by taking them out if necessary, especially the inner pads. That's a damn site cheaper than buying new CCM rotors.

Bish
Don't disagree with visually checking the thickness of both pads as they can taper as they wear and be thinner in one spot than another. However, when the pad warning appeared on the DIC the sensor on my pads was melted/worn to the point the wire in the sensor had broken leaving just enough pad material for a couple hundred miles of street driving. I suspect most of the time that provides sufficient warning to pull into the pits and change pads.

Bill
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