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2300 TVS Heartbeat!

 
Old 01-10-2018, 02:17 PM
  #41  
ScGRaceR
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that blower seems to be the ticket. hopefully a change this summer when its too hot to be out in Mexico
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:42 PM
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Im sure waiting for the new 2650, will be worth !! Patient is a vertue!!!
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:19 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by timmyZ06 View Post
Im sure waiting for the new 2650, will be worth !! Patient is a vertue!!!
I wanted to wait as well but when you go another level over the 2300.
Which can do 800 easy where the 2650 can maybe do a 1000 or more.
Plus the hood stays with the 2300 and that is a big deal! Do not want a huge bubble on my hood.
The supporting mods are a different deal as well and you could incur much higher costs at that 1000 plus level. Then your clutch and half shafts and other issues that may come with the new territory. My goal is around the 720rwhp or the 800hp level. Targeting the ZR1. Just for kicks!

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Old 01-10-2018, 05:22 PM
  #44  
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Doesn't the 2650 have to have the cowl cut to fit in the engine bay?
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:33 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by sammyv View Post
Doesn't the 2650 have to have the cowl cut to fit in the engine bay?
Not real sure but I think GM's 2650 is an GM designed house blower and not the same as the 2650 New Maggy. Same rotors but beyond that are different
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:59 AM
  #46  
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Sorry to put you on tilt. Joe and Nic did all the work on my Z so you can ask him if I own one. The type of forum is irrelevant as being able to speak intelligently is needed when dealing with the public. Like I said, I agree with some of your points on this blower.
I was in Joe’s shop on Friday having a meth pump exchanged and talked to him about doing the same thing with the 2300. I am actually glad you are getting one and I hope you are able to post legitimate “road” results. I hate dyno Queens as I am sure you do as well. People need to show how these things translate to the track or true performance gains. I agree the 1/4 mile is a tough gauge for performance gains when you are traction limited but you need to have some standardizing criteria for comparison.
NicD did his run on DR and skinnies. My HP/TQ is a little less than his with my stock blower maxed out and running E/Meth. I can’t run high 9s. I have stock rubber. My best 60’ is 1.9s, I will never be in the 10s with a 60’ like that. I know my limitations and I don’t speculate on what I could do, just what I can do. I can’t go to the track in Tucson during normal events due to the inspection process according to NHRA rules. I can only go all out there on private rentals, like Joe does. I am only really able to open it up on 1/2 mile and 1 mile events. I don’t do “3 honk” races as I have taken care of too many street racing participants in the ICU. It is stupid and proves nothing.
Again, without verifiable track results all we are doing is speculating on what we would gain with the 2300. “Bench racing” is fun for comparison sakes but it is no more real than playing fantasy football and calling yourself a coach. It is all fantasy. While NicD did some impressive times, it only shows what his car is capable of when he is the driver.
You eluded to the fact that 1/4 mile races are as much about traction as HP/TQ. Not debating that but you need some apples to apples comparison and you aren’t going to find that easily in the real world or on this forum. So speculating that the 2300 and 750+HP should be enough to theoretically beat the new ZR1 is fantasy until put to the test in a controlled environment. Same track, same driver, same conditions.
Now go chill, take a shower from all that hard work and enjoy your Z.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:01 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 3 Z06ZR1 View Post
Have plenty of clue. First clue is about you!
What a guy you are! You sound like a jerk! First you make cracks about others cars can't make 10's on stock rubber. So a poster who knows the car says it was on skinny's and radials. DUH! We know a drag pack is better for the 1/4.
Then you come back on with the insults.
Don't need your 2 cents on what is ok for others
I was running 10.80's on the stock rubber. The drag strip is poor place for the disadvantaged M7 it lends itself to roll racing which tells who has the Hp. The M7 is road car not a drag strip car
Look on the 1/4 mile fast list to see how many M7's you see!


The A8 has 30 percent more TQ to the ground than the M7 in low.

Might as well pay up on your totally BS bet I was in the 10's on about every pass.
With 700hp
Your probably have no skills looks like driving an C5 talking about others driving?
I have the A8 too! They do not require a driver like the M7 does
I keep my manual for highway romps.
Now go play go on the freeway.

Lets see your 10.8 time slips and videos on ‘stock rubber’.
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Old 01-11-2018, 10:16 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Cjunkie View Post
Lets see your 10.8 time slips and videos on ‘stock rubber’.
The slip is posted on the fast list. A few other CF members were at the track as we got together for the event. Nope no video but I had nothing but the stock tires and wheels. I do have a picture of the car there
at the track that day. The stock tires do pretty good but they need a good warm up. Notice off a 1.9 60ft it was still 10.8X
Attached Images  

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 01-11-2018 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:52 AM
  #49  
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What size snout does it come with?

Also, 14psi oem vs 14 psi Heartbeat, no cam no heads, on pump gas, what to gains to expect?
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:54 AM
  #50  
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If the boost is the same at the same engine RPMs, minimal in total output. The gain is in the efficiency of the blower. I don't have my boost numbers, but boost numbers are irrelevant (that is a different discussion). With Joe's upper pulley and a 9% lower over drive, spraying meth and E, I was still about 50HP less than Nic's Z. The other thing is there is a change in the power band. With the 2300 you maintain the TQ longer as the RPMs increase, it doesn't drop off as early as in the OEM SC.
The 2300 blower will not need to spin as fast to make those gains in air flow. Less blower spin, less heat in the SC. Less heat, cooler charge and less reliance on additional cooling mods, i.e bigger HX, expansion tanks, etc. When discussions about this installation were taking place, it was recommended to install a catch can, MightyMouse or otherwise, to insure better crankcase ventilation and relieve pressure on the engine seals.
There are many ways to get you to your output needs. You just need to consider what other supporting changes are needed with each modification. Increased fueling needs (E or meth) will most definitely need to be addressed at some point when you start chasing HP. Every shop/car owner has their own formula.

Last edited by AZGASSER; 01-12-2018 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:08 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Innovate View Post
What are guys putting down with the Heartbeat, ported TB, CAI, and X-Pipe? I am wondering as this would be the route I would go to keep the warranty lol. Hopefully you make close to 700 rwhp, 750 rwhp would be really awesome!
You aren't keeping the warranty with that mod unless you purchase the warranty from Magnuson and that is only for the power train and only original miles I believe. You will need tuning for sure and that means bye bye factory warranty.
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:38 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by AZGASSER View Post
If the boost is the same at the same engine RPMs, minimal in total output. The gain is in the efficiency of the blower. I don't have my boost numbers, but boost numbers are irrelevant (that is a different discussion). With Joe's upper pulley and a 9% lower over drive, spraying meth and E, I was still about 50HP less than Nic's Z. The other thing is there is a change in the power band. With the 2300 you maintain the TQ longer as the RPMs increase, it doesn't drop off as early as in the OEM SC.
The 2300 blower will not need to spin as fast to make those gains in air flow. Less blower spin, less heat in the SC. Less heat, cooler charge and less reliance on additional cooling mods, i.e bigger HX, expansion tanks, etc. When discussions about this installation were taking place, it was recommended to install a catch can, MightyMouse or otherwise, to insure better crankcase ventilation and relieve pressure on the engine seals.
There are many ways to get you to your output needs. You just need to consider what other supporting changes are needed with each modification. Increased fueling needs (E or meth) will most definitely need to be addressed at some point when you start chasing HP. Every shop/car owner has their own formula.
Speaking of seals, I had to change the front one twice so far. Have 15% pulley and the elite CC. Any ideas why I would be having such issues??
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:23 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by HNK View Post
Speaking of seals, I had to change the front one twice so far. Have 15% pulley and the elite CC. Any ideas why I would be having such issues??
I do. Stock pcv will vent enough to not blow a seal. I'll bet your timing is through the roof and it's pinging it's *** off.
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:04 AM
  #54  
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Timing is at 20 deg with torco. I don’t believe I have knock to the extent you are implying but will check. Any other possible reasons??

Last edited by HNK; 01-12-2018 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 03-01-2018, 07:33 PM
  #55  
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So who is going to be the first to HPDE test one of these for heat? I wonder if it'll get any hotter over 30 minute sessions.
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:28 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by HNK View Post
What size snout does it come with?

Also, 14psi oem vs 14 psi Heartbeat, no cam no heads, on pump gas, what to gains to expect?
I'm guessing the 2650 at full boost will require a cam and pumps for more fuel, or a lot of meth and be meth dependent.
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:53 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by AZGASSER View Post
Sorry to put you on tilt. Joe and Nic did all the work on my Z so you can ask him if I own one. The type of forum is irrelevant as being able to speak intelligently is needed when dealing with the public. Like I said, I agree with some of your points on this blower.
I was in Joe’s shop on Friday having a meth pump exchanged and talked to him about doing the same thing with the 2300. I am actually glad you are getting one and I hope you are able to post legitimate “road” results. I hate dyno Queens as I am sure you do as well. People need to show how these things translate to the track or true performance gains. I agree the 1/4 mile is a tough gauge for performance gains when you are traction limited but you need to have some standardizing criteria for comparison.
NicD did his run on DR and skinnies. My HP/TQ is a little less than his with my stock blower maxed out and running E/Meth. I can’t run high 9s. I have stock rubber. My best 60’ is 1.9s, I will never be in the 10s with a 60’ like that. I know my limitations and I don’t speculate on what I could do, just what I can do. I can’t go to the track in Tucson during normal events due to the inspection process according to NHRA rules. I can only go all out there on private rentals, like Joe does. I am only really able to open it up on 1/2 mile and 1 mile events. I don’t do “3 honk” races as I have taken care of too many street racing participants in the ICU. It is stupid and proves nothing.
Again, without verifiable track results all we are doing is speculating on what we would gain with the 2300. “Bench racing” is fun for comparison sakes but it is no more real than playing fantasy football and calling yourself a coach. It is all fantasy. While NicD did some impressive times, it only shows what his car is capable of when he is the driver.
You eluded to the fact that 1/4 mile races are as much about traction as HP/TQ. Not debating that but you need some apples to apples comparison and you aren’t going to find that easily in the real world or on this forum. So speculating that the 2300 and 750+HP should be enough to theoretically beat the new ZR1 is fantasy until put to the test in a controlled environment. Same track, same driver, same conditions.
Now go chill, take a shower from all that hard work and enjoy your Z.
Dyno queen? No such thing on an Lt4 if it makes power on the dyno it should be good. All my Corvette's before were.

The car is the same the engine the same so it is very much apples to apples as far as comparing with the 1.74. My car will not be as fast as NIC'd's his car would walk the ZR1 easy in my opinion. That 9.80's is fast for 3700 da. Plus his DYNO numbers for the A8 will be a lot higher than the ZR1. Stock ZR1 A8 would not be that fast at 3700 DA. I'm doing the 2300. I have 2 inch AR headers, Halltech intake and 93 pump gas. No desire for meth or or e fuels. If can get 675 rwhp I'm happy that sounds like a Zr1 number to me. If if turns out good I'm ordering another one for the A8.

The M7 is lousy 1/4 mile car too tall of 1st gear. Where the A8 is going to 60ft much better. Seems like you know if you 60ft is only a 1.9
I already know yours is an M7. Mine with 636rwhp goes 132.XX @ 10.89 on that 1.9 60ft! If it dyno's more it will be faster!

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-01-2018 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:55 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by irvbulldogs72 View Post
So who is going to be the first to HPDE test one of these for heat? I wonder if it'll get any hotter over 30 minute sessions.
I'll have mine at Nola in April for the Optima Street Car challenge, and many other events around the country this year (Gridlife, Road Atlanta, Barber, NCM, Road America, Charlotte Roval, etc.)

To be fair, I usually do time attack and don't run full 30 minute sessions, more like 15-20.

Current status of mine but I'm doing a little more than just the blower. I also have the GSpeed Stage Zero kit and am building the fuel system to support this level of power along with E85 to assist in cooling. Should work great if all goes as planned. Also not tuning this car for max power. I could not care less what the peak power number is, what is below the line is what matters most for this kind of car, and to be sure it maintains those power levels for a full session. What good is 750whp if it just gets hot and starts pulling timing?


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Old 03-01-2018, 11:14 PM
  #59  
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UPS says It is coming today and it is after 700 pm.
A 2300 and a new Halltech! Install will be soon as I feel better dam flu got me!

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-01-2018 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:34 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 3 Z06ZR1 View Post
Have plenty of clue. First clue is about you!
What a guy you are! You sound like a jerk! First you make cracks about others cars can't make 10's on stock rubber. So a poster who knows the car says it was on skinny's and radials. DUH! We know a drag pack is better for the 1/4.
Then you come back on with the insults.
Don't need your 2 cents on what is ok for others
I was running 10.80's on the stock rubber. The drag strip is poor place for the disadvantaged M7 it lends itself to roll racing which tells who has the Hp. The M7 is road car not a drag strip car
Look on the 1/4 mile fast list to see how many M7's you see!


The A8 has 30 percent more TQ to the ground than the M7 in low.

Might as well pay up on your totally BS bet I was in the 10's on about every pass.
With 700hp
Your probably have no skills looks like driving an C5 talking about others driving?
I have the A8 too! They do not require a driver like the M7 does
I keep my manual for highway romps.
Now go play go on the freeway.

Hate to say it but the Manual is even slower on roll races. I mostly do the same"So Dangerous BLA BLA" type of racing that you do and have always had quite a advantage of the Manual's. Not to mention if you go over to YouTube and watch the C7 Z street races, the auto's are also quicker with whatever setup each different person has. It all has to do with the Auto having a advantage in Torque Multiplication and always being in the main part of the Z's powerband; thus giving it a advantage of being in a higher average horsepower part of the powerband.

For example take say 4k-6500k RPM's and get an average horsepower number. And then take say the average horsepower of a RPM range of 5300k-6500k. Obliviously the later will have a much higher average #.
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