CPR's C7Z expansion tank now available!!
#1
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
CPR's C7Z expansion tank now available!!
We have finally fully released our C7Z expansion tank and we feel that we have built some very nice key features into our tank that separates ours from the rest.
Key features:
1) Uses OEM quick connect fittings for an extremely easy install and removal of lines should you need to later on
2) The only tank that has a built in mounting bracket for a mighty mouse catch can (our preferred can here) no longer do you have to pick one or the other, or figure out a custom bracket to make it work
3) Still very easy plug access to cylinder #1
4) one of the fastest install times of any tank on the market
Pricing is set to $600 + shipping and you can add in our popular heat exchanger for a package deal and have the ultimate in bolt in IAT management.
**dealers welcome**
Key features:
1) Uses OEM quick connect fittings for an extremely easy install and removal of lines should you need to later on
2) The only tank that has a built in mounting bracket for a mighty mouse catch can (our preferred can here) no longer do you have to pick one or the other, or figure out a custom bracket to make it work
3) Still very easy plug access to cylinder #1
4) one of the fastest install times of any tank on the market
Pricing is set to $600 + shipping and you can add in our popular heat exchanger for a package deal and have the ultimate in bolt in IAT management.
**dealers welcome**
__________________
Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
Owner of AZ's premier LSX/LTX motorsports shop
http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
www.facebook.com/cordesperformanceracing.com
joe@cordesperformanceracing.com
480-359-5914
Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
Owner of AZ's premier LSX/LTX motorsports shop
http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
www.facebook.com/cordesperformanceracing.com
joe@cordesperformanceracing.com
480-359-5914
#4
Race Director
Does your unit solve the air gap issue that occurs in the factory reservoir?
TIA
TIA
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,088
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Based on what GM Engineering has told the dealer mechanic trying to resolve my random on track high rpm misfiring is the air gap to be concerned about is where the arrow is pointing:
If the coolant level isn't into the vertical part of the T below the cap the level is too low. From what I understand a new tool is being released at the end of January to make it easier to get the proper fill.
Bill
If the coolant level isn't into the vertical part of the T below the cap the level is too low. From what I understand a new tool is being released at the end of January to make it easier to get the proper fill.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 01-12-2018 at 04:29 PM.
#6
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
add's additional capacity to the supercharging cooling system to help reduce
attached a pic. the pic w/ the mm can on it i can't find on my phone sadly. but in our product pic you can see the mount and it's easy to see where it would go.
the air gap can be removed by flipping the lines on the hx and changing how it fills the tank. oem fills from the top, you need it to fill from the bottom. even with oem style connection you will not have any risk of the pump cavitating as this tank makes it so easy to get all the air out that causes that issue.
attached a pic. the pic w/ the mm can on it i can't find on my phone sadly. but in our product pic you can see the mount and it's easy to see where it would go.
the air gap can be removed by flipping the lines on the hx and changing how it fills the tank. oem fills from the top, you need it to fill from the bottom. even with oem style connection you will not have any risk of the pump cavitating as this tank makes it so easy to get all the air out that causes that issue.
The following users liked this post:
MarkRacerX (01-12-2018)
#7
Drifting
Joe, what is the pic with the arrow supposed to represent? I don't understand what you mean by reversing the lines and filling from the bottom to remove the air gap. Can you please elaborate. Thanks!
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,088
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That is a picture of my Z's intercooler plumbing. The cap is the fill cap. The reservoir with an air gap is down at the bottom of the system and accessible through the right front wheel well. It is difficult to get the air gap out of the reservoir since the outlet is below the top of the reservoir. The air gap is there to provide room for the coolant to expand when it gets hot.
However, based on what GM Engineers have communicated to the dealer mechanic working on my car there should be no air showing in the horizontal lines that are under the cap on top (when I checked the FSM the wording on how full was considered full wasn't clear). If there is air in those lines (can check by removing the cap) the intercooler will provide insufficient intake charge cooling for the rear two cylinders of the engine. The arrow points to where you need to check for proper intercooler fill and that point is somewhere in the range of 12 to 18 inches above the top of the reservoir. The air gap at the top of the reservoir may be perfect but if there is air in that horizontal line the system isn't filled properly.
Bill
However, based on what GM Engineers have communicated to the dealer mechanic working on my car there should be no air showing in the horizontal lines that are under the cap on top (when I checked the FSM the wording on how full was considered full wasn't clear). If there is air in those lines (can check by removing the cap) the intercooler will provide insufficient intake charge cooling for the rear two cylinders of the engine. The arrow points to where you need to check for proper intercooler fill and that point is somewhere in the range of 12 to 18 inches above the top of the reservoir. The air gap at the top of the reservoir may be perfect but if there is air in that horizontal line the system isn't filled properly.
Bill
The following users liked this post:
Gonzo (01-14-2018)
#9
Drifting
Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
That is a picture of my Z's intercooler plumbing. The cap is the fill cap. The reservoir with an air gap is down at the bottom of the system and accessible through the right front wheel well. It is difficult to get the air gap out of the reservoir since the outlet is below the top of the reservoir. The air gap is there to provide room for the coolant to expand when it gets hot.
However, based on what GM Engineers have communicated to the dealer mechanic working on my car there should be no air showing in the horizontal lines that are under the cap on top (when I checked the FSM the wording on how full was considered full wasn't clear). If there is air in those lines (can check by removing the cap) the intercooler will provide insufficient intake charge cooling for the rear two cylinders of the engine. The arrow points to where you need to check for proper intercooler fill and that point is somewhere in the range of 12 to 18 inches above the top of the reservoir. The air gap at the top of the reservoir may be perfect but if there is air in that horizontal line the system isn't filled properly.
Bill
However, based on what GM Engineers have communicated to the dealer mechanic working on my car there should be no air showing in the horizontal lines that are under the cap on top (when I checked the FSM the wording on how full was considered full wasn't clear). If there is air in those lines (can check by removing the cap) the intercooler will provide insufficient intake charge cooling for the rear two cylinders of the engine. The arrow points to where you need to check for proper intercooler fill and that point is somewhere in the range of 12 to 18 inches above the top of the reservoir. The air gap at the top of the reservoir may be perfect but if there is air in that horizontal line the system isn't filled properly.
Bill
#11
Race Director
PM sent. Thanks.
#12
Drifting
I have the LMR tank on my car, I recently added a Mighty Mouse can because I blew a front crank seal while on the road course. It was nearly impossible to find a place to mount it, I ended up fabricating brackets and mounted it partially under the expansion tank. I am still not happy with the way I had to mount it.
I look forward to you posting a picture of the Mighty Mouse Can and how it mounts along with your tank.
I look forward to you posting a picture of the Mighty Mouse Can and how it mounts along with your tank.
#13
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
I have the LMR tank on my car, I recently added a Mighty Mouse can because I blew a front crank seal while on the road course. It was nearly impossible to find a place to mount it, I ended up fabricating brackets and mounted it partially under the expansion tank. I am still not happy with the way I had to mount it.
I look forward to you posting a picture of the Mighty Mouse Can and how it mounts along with your tank.
I look forward to you posting a picture of the Mighty Mouse Can and how it mounts along with your tank.
#14
Drifting
#16
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
No lines to the heat exchanger get disconnected unless you're also installing our heat exchanger. You simply cut one line and put onto the hose our quick connect fitting. It then clicks into our tank.
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silver ls2 (01-20-2018)
#17
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
here are some more pictures of a coated tank with a mighty mouse installed. these come w/ gm quick connect fittings and line to make this without a doubt one of the easiest tank's to install on the market. We currently are making another batch of 20 so if you're looking to get one just shoot me a pm, email, or call the shop.
#18
Burning Brakes
Did you replace the intercooler bleeder? The very last pic shows no bleeder and the pic with your tank on a earlier post shows bleeder present. Any combo sales looking to buy larger intercooler and Tank.
Thanks Marc
Thanks Marc
#19
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
We do combo deals with tank and heat exchanger. Normally $600/ea but the pair would be $1100 shipped to the lower 48.