Toddiesel

I just swapped out my C7 stingray for a C7 Z06 last weekend. Took it to the dyno today to get some numbers. Now this is a mustang dyno, so they numbers do run a little lower than a dynojet, but it showed up as 471. Anyone else seen numbers this low? (btw I also took my stock stingray to this shop and it put down 450, which seems way high) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79gX...ature=youtu.be

3 Z06ZR1

Too low!
Something is a miss? A8 or M7 ?

Toddiesel

Yeah, I'm just hoping it's not the car. The car is immeasurably more powerful than my stingray was, so I don't think that's the case. It's a manual trans. Do autos still put down less power to the wheels, or have they engineered that out?

TurboVic

Don't worry too much, just go to a different shop with a dyno jet.

Toddiesel

Yeah, I was thinking about doing that as there's one here in town, but I just wanted to see if anyone else had seen that too. Not that it's a ton of money, but don't really want to waste another 100 bucks if this is a common thing. Also I want to make sure I have an accurate baseline before i throw on mods so that I know exactly what kinds of gains I'm getting

383vett

25 bucks will get you into Wednesday night racing at our local track. You can get at least 5 runs depending on when you are eliminated. The trap speed will be an indicator of your horsepower. Do you have a strip nearby?

Toddiesel

There's an 8th mile strip around here somewhere, but no quarter mile. I have 0 interest in running an 8th mile as it doesn't tell you much. I remember when I got the really high dyno number on my stingray, people said I should check my 40-100 time. Is there a speed range like that for the Z06? 450 is kind of an odd speed for the Z since that's still 1st gear

TXRR

Mr. Gizmo

Mr. Gizmo

Toddiesel

It feels WAY stronger than the stingray. 6th gear pulls harder than 4th in the stingray. I will have the dealership check the fuel pressure and run a diagnostic though!

383vett

1/4 mile would be better, but the trap speed of an 1/8 mile run will work. If you are 102-105 you are in the correct range. if you are below that, find another dyno to confirm. Remember, you are not concerned with et but trap speed.

0Terry@BMS

If it's not a dynojet brand the actual numbers are basically meaningless and can vary dramatically based on load factors, correction factors, and other things that have nothing to do with actual performance.

Toddiesel

Well according to what I've read, Mustang dynos are supposed to be the most accurate (albeit lower) as they provide "real world" scenarios to give you the best possible tuning situation. Now I don't know this first hand, it's just what I've been told. I also don't know jack about running a dyno and I'm given to understand you can change some inputs and have the numbers vary wildly (being mustang or dynojet) and maybe those guys loaded the wrong inputs or something. No idea. One thing I do know is that it feels WAY stronger than 20hp more than my stingray. I don't know for sure that it's at its peak and the folks that have posted about issues themselves makes me want to have a diagnostic run, so I appreciate all that info. I'm dropping it off tuesday to get the android auto update and the new MRC recalibration done anyway. I'll just tell them my dyno numbers were low and I'm worried it isn't putting out its full potential and ask them to run a diag as well.

cheapthrills

" I'll just tell them my dyno numbers were low and I'm worried it isn't putting out its full potential and ask them to run a diag as well. "

Hope your dealer is better then the ones around me, they would say no codes, all's good.

rflow306

A load dyno like the mustang allows the operator to change the drum weight, load, elevation and even have a dynojet correction which inflates the numbers . The dynojets do not allow the operator to alter the drum weight only the elevation. They do read higher but in my opinion they are the best at measuring the delta for different mods. A general rule is to look at the correction factor number, anything above 1.03 is usually to high imo. I always like to compare the uncorrected and corrected numbers.

shopteacher

A dyno is a tool. No one ever won a race on one. Select a dyno, a good operator, and make several runs to establish a baseline. Then modify as you see fit. You will probably need a tune. Using the same dyno and operator rerun and evaluate. When I ran a DynoJet. I usually did a final power check after a tune and a good cool down for bragging rights, running 4 or 5 times back to back to ensure there were no "ringers" either high or low. If you have the money and time, run after each mod and see how each one performs.

0Terry@BMS

MDs are great for tuning on but awful for actual numbers, marketing, or internet comparisons. I'm just warning you to prevent you wasting more money or aggravation. If you want numbers that resemble what you see others post around here then find yourself a dynojet machine. Or better yet, screw the dyno, and hit the local 1/4 mile track.

383vett

Another thing you could do is to bring a buddy with a stock Z06 with you and have him run before or after you in the same conditions. This will give you some reference. Again as mentioned a couple of passes at the strip will tell you all you need to know.

C7/Z06 Man

Just take it to the track! The 1/8 mile is fine, just compare it with others. See post above.^^^ or the one above that.