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C7 ZO6 with Borla Attak with NPP axel back

Old 05-20-2018, 10:08 PM
  #21  
Midwest C6
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I just installed today Atak with NPP and X Pipe. I have all pushed forward as far as I can, and tips are level and centered, but the right side NPP valve actuator touches the rear valance. How much clearance do you have. Mine is 2018 Z06 M7.
Old 05-20-2018, 10:56 PM
  #22  
SnowyATX
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EDIT: I read this as tip not actuator. Not sure, I'd have to look.


Is it touching the bottom of the valance, ie bottom side of tip? I installed the S-Type last week and my right side was too low. Had to push it up like hell while fully tightening the clamp.

Overall I'm not that impressed with the erector set style of the assembly especially the muffler to muffler attach. Very poor design. I know why they do it so it can take up what are probably crappy weldment tolerances. Replaceable NPP tips make sense but the shouldn't be that far off when assembled. Adjustability is nice but not if it makes it a puzzle to get things to line up.

I think I have a little over 1/2" between bottom of tips and the valance. About the same on the sides.

Last edited by SnowyATX; 05-20-2018 at 11:04 PM.
Old 05-20-2018, 11:05 PM
  #23  
Midwest C6
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No, my tips are centered well in the opening. Just the valve actuator touching the inside of the valence. I probably need to loosen all clamps and try again to gain some clearance.
Old 05-21-2018, 02:40 AM
  #24  
sunsalem
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Borla makes great stuff.

I had a Mustang Cobra with a 4.6L DOHC with a Bassini X-Pipe and Borla exhaust.
It sounded like a frickin' racecar.
Old 05-21-2018, 11:11 AM
  #25  
SnowyATX
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Originally Posted by Midwest C6
No, my tips are centered well in the opening. Just the valve actuator touching the inside of the valence. I probably need to loosen all clamps and try again to gain some clearance.
Damn. Thanks for pointing it out. Just checked. Mine does too just a little but they shouldn't touch.
Now it will drive me crazy till I figure it out.
Old 05-21-2018, 12:54 PM
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Midwest C6
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I agree, frustrated! I am going to try again tonight, but I already have it pushed forward so that the small drip hole in the tip will drip right on the lower valance. I think I will twist the tip ever so slightly and hope that provides enough clearance.
Old 05-21-2018, 01:38 PM
  #27  
SnowyATX
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Originally Posted by Midwest C6
I agree, frustrated! I am going to try again tonight, but I already have it pushed forward so that the small drip hole in the tip will drip right on the lower valance. I think I will twist the tip ever so slightly and hope that provides enough clearance.
I bet others have the same issue!

I wonder if pushing the valence out a bit (towards the rear) by putting some shims/washers between the valence and the chassis (1 of 2 screws shown below) would help. I may try that before loosening everything and fighting with it all over again.


Old 05-21-2018, 02:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tray333
here is the cold start in stealth mode npp closed with x pipe.
Thank you for the video. That actually doesn't sound too bad.
Old 05-21-2018, 07:23 PM
  #29  
SnowyATX
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Originally Posted by Midwest C6
I agree, frustrated! I am going to try again tonight, but I already have it pushed forward so that the small drip hole in the tip will drip right on the lower valance. I think I will twist the tip ever so slightly and hope that provides enough clearance.
I looked closer this evening. It was rubbing real bad and starting to gouge the fascia. Its only been on there 7 days!! It would have wore a hole in it.

I loosened both outer tips and pushed them in temporarily. It gave the right side NPP actuator maybe 1/8-1/4" clearance. The left side doesn't need it but I had to push it in to make the tips symmetric. Its ugly but still functional.

Not what I wanted to be working on this weekend!

Not glad that you are having the issue but it made me look at mine and I'm glad I did.
Old 05-21-2018, 09:50 PM
  #30  
Midwest C6
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OP and others, do you have an interference issue as well, or did Rick and I install ours poorly?
Old 05-22-2018, 10:20 PM
  #31  
SnowyATX
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So I'm done messing with it and this isn't my first rodeo.

With the S-Type system I received and with the stock x-pipe here are some basic facts (to the best of my knowledge anyhow):

1. The NPP valves need to be rotated more in the counter clockwise direction on the right NPP tip weldment.

2 More clockwise on the left NPP tip weldment.

3. Without 1 you cannot have all 4 tips with equal spacing (and front of tips co-planar) as shown in Borla literature. The center gap must be larger. Reason being that the right side NPP actuator housing is too close to the inside surface of the facia. IF you push the outer tips (NPP) in a far as the will go AND have the center gap you can have enough clearance to the fascia. But now the tips aren't co-planar (not fugly but also not expected).

4. The left side tip cannot be rotated far enough clockwise (drip hole perfectly down and Borla stamp on top) because it's NPP actuator will hit the underside of the "bumper bricks". It needs a bit of clearance for the exhaust system to move a bit.

So, I ended up with a bigger gap in the middle and the outer tips pushed in a bit. Doesn't look horrible but not what I thought I was buying.

For those of you that slapped the fascia on and never checked clearance to the right side actuator beware! Mine almost rubbed a hole in the fascia in less than a week

Here are some random pics.

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Last edited by SnowyATX; 05-22-2018 at 10:35 PM.
Old 05-23-2018, 04:58 PM
  #32  
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I have the same setup....Here is what mine sounded like on a Dyno Run...

-M



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