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This is a question for anyone that's installed the kit. I'm installing front and rear. Did you leave the wheel blockers, if you had them, in place or did you remove or alter them. I do have the original shields that were there as well. Here's a photo.
Nah I'm still running oem rims. I went with the 390mm kit that's not out yet so 18's won't work anyway. Hopefully I don't regret that down the road. I love the cups and I just wore out my first set.
Disappointed to hear that 18’s won’t fit. Just traded my 13 GS for a 17 Z and was going to run 18/19 from the GS for track duty.
They won't fit with the wheel blockers but you can take them off easily. The big brake kit also works with 18's unless you get the 390mm discs which you won't need on a GS.
UPS didn't get here until 4:30 so I'll get started on it in the morning. Hopefully they won't be too bad. I'm draining the SRF and putting AP R3 fluid in it as well. The photo shows my caliper after 4 sessions on Tuesday. We didn't push hard because the track was wet and I was on the Pss's. Fluid keeps seeping out of the bleeders. I'm thinking maybe the SRF had something to do with it after reading other threads on here. I'll post back when I'm done.
UPS didn't get here until 4:30 so I'll get started on it in the morning. Hopefully they won't be too bad. I'm draining the SRF and putting AP R3 fluid in it as well. The photo shows my caliper after 4 sessions on Tuesday. We didn't push hard because the track was wet and I was on the Pss's. Fluid keeps seeping out of the bleeders. I'm thinking maybe the SRF had something to do with it after reading other threads on here. I'll post back when I'm done.
At least your calipers are still yellow, mine have turned brown.
At least your calipers are still yellow, mine have turned brown.
Yeah I don't think my problems are heat related. When they are clean they look new. They just leak fluid from the bleeders. I'm afraid I'll end up in a tire wall or worse if I don't fix that so that's why I'm switching. I may not be able to work on it this weekend after all but I will still post back once I get it all done.
Herman
I fitted the wheel blockers on my 2017 with the AP Racing kit without issue. Then I realized my 18" wheels wouldn't fit so I had to remove them. The question though is since you're running the bigger 390mm rotors I would expect the blocker rings to actually block part of the rotor on the inside. I think I'd just leave them off.
I fitted the wheel blockers on my 2017 with the AP Racing kit without issue. Then I realized my 18" wheels wouldn't fit so I had to remove them. The question though is since you're running the bigger 390mm rotors I would expect the blocker rings to actually block part of the rotor on the inside. I think I'd just leave them off.
Thanks Sean. I think I'm just going to trial fit and see what it looks like. If it's blocking the rotor I know that's not going to work well. I'm worried about cooking the ball joints if I take it off completely.
Thanks Sean. I think I'm just going to trial fit and see what it looks like. If it's blocking the rotor I know that's not going to work well. I'm worried about cooking the ball joints if I take it off completely.
Do you still have the original deflector behind the rotor? I thought that blocked the ball joint. I did end up burning out a lower ball joint on one side of my 2015. Dealer replaced under warranty
Do you still have the original deflector behind the rotor? I thought that blocked the ball joint. I did end up burning out a lower ball joint on one side of my 2015. Dealer replaced under warranty
I've got them packed away in the garage but it shouldn't be hard to find them. I think the ccb rotors are 394mm so the blockers might fit fine. I'd probably rather replace a ball joint than let the dealer try.
How bad is the brake line change? I read somewhere the retainer clips are a bitch.
Bad! Essex tech told me the Spiegler lines on a C7 were the most difficult they've installed. I took that as a challenge. It took me 8 hours to do 4 Brake lines, add front AP Kit, and do fluid change. I'd say 4 hours was spent on the 4 retainer clips. I was determined to get them on the correct way.
There is not an easy solution other than trial and error. By the 4th one, I still didn't have a trick to get them on faster. I used a small handheld vice, which helped clamp it with the bracket secured. Initially getting it in position I needed the bracket loose and using a small mirror to see what I was doing. Driver side has more room to maneuver, so I would start there.
I've got them packed away in the garage but it shouldn't be hard to find them. I think the ccb rotors are 394mm so the blockers might fit fine. I'd probably rather replace a ball joint than let the dealer try.
The blockers were only designed for the OEM steel rotors. They say not to use them for CCBs. Not sure if it's because they don't fit or worried about the CCB rotor surface potentially being damaged. I run the wheel blockers with AP kit, 372 rotors, which is the same as OEM steel size. It sounds like you have the right plan and test fit. Let us know if it works.
The blockers were only designed for the OEM steel rotors. They say not to use them for CCBs. Not sure if it's because they don't fit or worried about the CCB rotor surface potentially being damaged. I run the wheel blockers with AP kit, 372 rotors, which is the same as OEM steel size. It sounds like you have the right plan and test fit. Let us know if it works.
Will do. Sounds like the brake lines are going to be fun
I looked at the hardline connection for the brake lines. That chore looks nauseating.
I'm not convinced the wheel blockers do anything. They mostly catch on my wheels when i pull them off and one pulled off a wheel weight. I'd leave them off.
I looked at the hardline connection for the brake lines. That chore looks nauseating.
Has anyone measured the out to see if the lines actually need to be replaced with this kit? Or can the OEM lines actually reach the mounting points on the AP calipers? It might save ya'all a bunch of trouble.
Not sure the stock lines will fit. The big problem is the stock lines have a captured fit where they fasten to the cradle. The aftermarket lines have a round end that sort of fits the oval shape in the stock mount and move around a lot while trying to tighten them. I found it easier to remove the a bunch of stuff around the bracket including the wheel position sensor so I could get my hands and tools into the space to make it easier to tighten the lines and clamp them to the bracket. Rears were easier than the fronts.
06-01-2018, 08:52 AM
AP big brake kit
