C7 Z06 wheels no good?
#1
C7 Z06 wheels no good?
Im getting my new baby soon, Z06/Z07. Living in Massachusetts and seeing some issues people are having with these wheels is starting to make me a little nervous. I mean do they really get bent that easy? We all know here in New England we have shitty roads. I will be driving mostly on Sport mode I think. Thanks in advance
#2
they bend very easily.
I would highly suggest/demand that anyone who buys these cars new get a wheel and tire warranty with zero deductible, with at least 30,000 dollars of total coverage for the 3 or 4 years they own the car.
get the mild to wild exhaust controller, and put your car back into touring mode immediately
should be around 900 dollars for the insurance. If you live on the east coast, they might charge you more, try to get them down to under 1000 and you'll be thankful later. Sometimes you can get it for 300 bucks... ill explain more in a minute...
I would also get the insurance pamphlet and call the insurance company ahead of time and ask them about "aftermarket wheels"... while the contract may say "no aftermarket wheels"... that term, is defined in the contract... and it usually reads "wheels and tires outside of factory spec"
i would then call up cw4l or brixton forged, and tell them you want forged wheels in factory sizes and offsets.. have them send those across to you with part numbers and prices...
i would forward those specs to the insurance company, and ask them if they will cover these wheels if you purchased them... and were to put them on your car immediately at time of purchase with the stock tires still used. Likely, they will respond "yes"... get that in writing, via email, etc, and write it on your contract that they are covered... THEN buy the contract.
IF you never buy the aftermarket wheels, no worries, the contract still covers your stock wheels of course. But if you buy aftermarket wheels at any time, then they will be covered also, and so will the stock tires on those wheels.
most people dont know that you can accomplish this.
I would highly suggest/demand that anyone who buys these cars new get a wheel and tire warranty with zero deductible, with at least 30,000 dollars of total coverage for the 3 or 4 years they own the car.
get the mild to wild exhaust controller, and put your car back into touring mode immediately
should be around 900 dollars for the insurance. If you live on the east coast, they might charge you more, try to get them down to under 1000 and you'll be thankful later. Sometimes you can get it for 300 bucks... ill explain more in a minute...
I would also get the insurance pamphlet and call the insurance company ahead of time and ask them about "aftermarket wheels"... while the contract may say "no aftermarket wheels"... that term, is defined in the contract... and it usually reads "wheels and tires outside of factory spec"
i would then call up cw4l or brixton forged, and tell them you want forged wheels in factory sizes and offsets.. have them send those across to you with part numbers and prices...
i would forward those specs to the insurance company, and ask them if they will cover these wheels if you purchased them... and were to put them on your car immediately at time of purchase with the stock tires still used. Likely, they will respond "yes"... get that in writing, via email, etc, and write it on your contract that they are covered... THEN buy the contract.
IF you never buy the aftermarket wheels, no worries, the contract still covers your stock wheels of course. But if you buy aftermarket wheels at any time, then they will be covered also, and so will the stock tires on those wheels.
most people dont know that you can accomplish this.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-05-2018 at 07:24 PM.
#3
they bend very easily.
I would highly suggest/demand that anyone who buys these cars new get a wheel and tire warranty with zero deductible, with at least 30,000 dollars of total coverage for the 3 or 4 years they own the car.
get the mild to wild exhaust controller, and put your car back into touring mode immediately
should be 900 dollars for the insurance.
I would also get the insurance pamphlet and call the insurance company ahead of time and ask them about "aftermarket wheels"... while the contract may say "no aftermarket wheels"... that term, is defined in the contract... and it usually reads "wheels and tires outside of factory spec"
i would then call up cw4l or brixton forged, and tell them you want forged wheels in factory sizes and offsets.. have them send those across to you with part numbers and prices...
i would forward those specs to the insurance company, and ask them if they will cover these wheels if you purchased them... and put them on your car immediately at time of purchase. Likely, they will respond "yes"... get that in writing, via email, etc, and write it on your contract that they are covered... THEN buy the contract.
IF you never buy the aftermarket wheels, no worries, the contract still covers your stock wheels of course. But if you buy aftermarket wheels at any time, then they will be covered also, and so will the stock tires on those wheels.
most people dont know that you can accomplish this.
I would highly suggest/demand that anyone who buys these cars new get a wheel and tire warranty with zero deductible, with at least 30,000 dollars of total coverage for the 3 or 4 years they own the car.
get the mild to wild exhaust controller, and put your car back into touring mode immediately
should be 900 dollars for the insurance.
I would also get the insurance pamphlet and call the insurance company ahead of time and ask them about "aftermarket wheels"... while the contract may say "no aftermarket wheels"... that term, is defined in the contract... and it usually reads "wheels and tires outside of factory spec"
i would then call up cw4l or brixton forged, and tell them you want forged wheels in factory sizes and offsets.. have them send those across to you with part numbers and prices...
i would forward those specs to the insurance company, and ask them if they will cover these wheels if you purchased them... and put them on your car immediately at time of purchase. Likely, they will respond "yes"... get that in writing, via email, etc, and write it on your contract that they are covered... THEN buy the contract.
IF you never buy the aftermarket wheels, no worries, the contract still covers your stock wheels of course. But if you buy aftermarket wheels at any time, then they will be covered also, and so will the stock tires on those wheels.
most people dont know that you can accomplish this.
#4
Team Owner
I have a 2019 Z06 with the stock chrome wheels. The roads here in many areas are rough and I have inadvertently hit some deep jarring potholes. But no bent wheels or any other issues. In tour or sport mode you should be fine, track mode is another story and should be avoided on the street. You do read about owners having problems with bent rims on this forum but I believe it is more the exception than the rule..
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Snakecharmer383 (08-07-2018)
#5
the wheel and tire warranty will run you 1000 bucks. It will be sold by your finance department when you buy the car. I would use this as an excuse to make friends with the finance guy in advance. Tell him the guys on corvette forum told you to call the wheel and tire insurance place first before you bought the car to verify they will cover specific wheels other than the oem wheels. He will give you a copy of the contract that you will sign, etc, and then you call the provider of the policy. THey are much nicer and bend rules BEFORE you buy the contract. After you buy it, its easy for them to just answer "no" and thats why you want to get it in writing from them so theres no questions later.
On the east coast with potholes, you must have it. Frankly, with these wheels anywhere in the usa, you must have it, but the east coast is the worst.
On the east coast with potholes, you must have it. Frankly, with these wheels anywhere in the usa, you must have it, but the east coast is the worst.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-05-2018 at 07:00 PM.
#6
it has already paid me 6000 dollars worth of wheels and tires.. in 1 year. Its a 4 year contract. They are going to lose money with me, that is for sure.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-05-2018 at 06:59 PM.
#7
I have a 2019 Z06 with the stock chrome wheels. The roads here in many areas are rough and I have inadvertently hit some deep jarring potholes. But no bent wheels or any other issues. In tour or sport mode you should be fine, track mode is another story and should be avoided on the street. You do read about owners having problems with bent rims on this forum but I believe it is more the exception than the rule..
Swing by a wheel repair facility, and have them just test 1 wheel on your car... they usually test 1 free or 20 bucks a wheel... either way, i bet you'll be surprised.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-05-2018 at 07:00 PM.
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TONYCGSR18 (09-17-2018)
#8
Team Owner
I sold my stock wheels and bought the GM cup wheels from 2 different venders. IMO The wheel bending of the stock wheel is over blown. The one time I personally found a bent wheel was a aftermarket forged wheel.
Any of them can bend.
The wide rim is supported on one side so a good hit on the other has leverage to bend it. I drive around the pot holes when I can. Have had 20 sets of stock wheels and bent 0. You can replace one for 350 or less to the door. Nobody says a word unless they bend so you hear of it but it is not that many.
Any of them can bend.
The wide rim is supported on one side so a good hit on the other has leverage to bend it. I drive around the pot holes when I can. Have had 20 sets of stock wheels and bent 0. You can replace one for 350 or less to the door. Nobody says a word unless they bend so you hear of it but it is not that many.
The following 5 users liked this post by 3 Z06ZR1:
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SoCalFinest (08-06-2018)
#9
Team Owner
I have a 2019 Z06 with the stock chrome wheels. The roads here in many areas are rough and I have inadvertently hit some deep jarring potholes. But no bent wheels or any other issues. In tour or sport mode you should be fine, track mode is another story and should be avoided on the street. You do read about owners having problems with bent rims on this forum but I believe it is more the exception than the rule..
#10
Team Owner
ill bet money your wheels are bent and you don't even know it Its very common that people think the road they are on has tiny bumps and its part of the vette ride.
Swing by a wheel repair facility, and have them just test 1 wheel on your car... they usually test 1 free or 20 bucks a wheel... either way, i bet you'll be surprised.
Swing by a wheel repair facility, and have them just test 1 wheel on your car... they usually test 1 free or 20 bucks a wheel... either way, i bet you'll be surprised.
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Mikec7z (08-05-2018)
#11
I sold my stock wheels and bought the GM cup wheels from 2 different venders. IMO The wheel bending of the stock wheel is over blown. The one time I personally found a bent wheel was a aftermarket forged wheel.
Any of them can bend.
The wide rim is supported on one side so a good hit on the other has leverage to bend it. I drive around the pot holes when I can. Have had 20 sets of stock wheels and bent 0. You can replace one for 350 or less to the door. Nobody says a word unless they bend so you hear of it but it is not that many.
Any of them can bend.
The wide rim is supported on one side so a good hit on the other has leverage to bend it. I drive around the pot holes when I can. Have had 20 sets of stock wheels and bent 0. You can replace one for 350 or less to the door. Nobody says a word unless they bend so you hear of it but it is not that many.
so take the wheels out of the equation, and lets just look at tires... 2 flats and you are at the cost of the contract. It also cover's towing and lodging if you get a broken wheel or flat tire and it takes a couple days to get it shipped in. its more than just wheel replacement.
keep in mind, the contract is refundable at a pro rated value... so if you get a 4 year contract, and a year later determine i was wrong and you wasted your money, you can go get 750 of the 1000 dollars back. Also, ask for less than 1000 for the contract, offer them 4 bucks a month or 300 bucks basically. Finance guys have to sell 2 products every customer through their office or they get in trouble essentially when their averages fall. They will take it out of the price of the car if they have to sometimes. It helps them keep their jobs. Keep in mind, if you cancel the contract later, and they only charged you an extra 4 bucks a month for it, it will still refund you back 75% of.... what should have been... the larger real retail number in many cases.
im telling you.. wheel and tire insurance is a no brainer... the people who dont buy it, dont understand what all it does and how to get their money back if they dont use it.
It also covers curbing your wheels, as long as they are not chrome. They have to fix scratches and dings as well. It means you can throw your wife the keys and its okay when she goes through the drive through... its not ww3 later that night.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-05-2018 at 07:15 PM.
#12
Thanks guys...I appreciate all the info u guys just shared here. Take care
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Mikec7z (08-05-2018)
#13
#14
Team Owner
all types do bend... and thats why im saying if he gets the wheel and tire contract... make sure it covers the aftermarket wheels he buys too. Keep in mind, the contract covers nails and debris, which is common in cities as well, stuff falls off work trucks, etc.
so take the wheels out of the equation, and lets just look at tires... 2 flats and you are at the cost of the contract. It also cover's towing and lodging if you get a broken wheel or flat tire and it takes a couple days to get it shipped in. its more than just wheel replacement.
keep in mind, the contract is refundable at a pro rated value... so if you get a 4 year contract, and a year later determine i was wrong and you wasted your money, you can go get 750 of the 1000 dollars back. Also, ask for less than 1000 for the contract, offer them 4 bucks a month or 300 bucks basically. Finance guys have to sell 2 products every customer through their office or they get in trouble essentially when their averages fall. They will take it out of the price of the car if they have to sometimes. It helps them keep their jobs. Keep in mind, if you cancel the contract later, and they only charged you an extra 4 bucks a month for it, it will still refund you back 75% of.... what should have been... the larger real retail number in many cases.
im telling you.. wheel and tire insurance is a no brainer... the people who dont buy it, dont understand what all it does and how to get their money back if they dont use it.
It also covers curbing your wheels, as long as they are not chrome. They have to fix scratches and dings as well. It means you can throw your wife the keys and its okay when she goes through the drive through... its not ww3 later that night.
so take the wheels out of the equation, and lets just look at tires... 2 flats and you are at the cost of the contract. It also cover's towing and lodging if you get a broken wheel or flat tire and it takes a couple days to get it shipped in. its more than just wheel replacement.
keep in mind, the contract is refundable at a pro rated value... so if you get a 4 year contract, and a year later determine i was wrong and you wasted your money, you can go get 750 of the 1000 dollars back. Also, ask for less than 1000 for the contract, offer them 4 bucks a month or 300 bucks basically. Finance guys have to sell 2 products every customer through their office or they get in trouble essentially when their averages fall. They will take it out of the price of the car if they have to sometimes. It helps them keep their jobs. Keep in mind, if you cancel the contract later, and they only charged you an extra 4 bucks a month for it, it will still refund you back 75% of.... what should have been... the larger real retail number in many cases.
im telling you.. wheel and tire insurance is a no brainer... the people who dont buy it, dont understand what all it does and how to get their money back if they dont use it.
It also covers curbing your wheels, as long as they are not chrome. They have to fix scratches and dings as well. It means you can throw your wife the keys and its okay when she goes through the drive through... its not ww3 later that night.
The people that don't use it (did it ever occur to you ) may not deem it worth it?
#15
Cracked rear wheels
In 2 years, about 23,000 miles, my left rear wheel has started losing pressure. Maybe 10 psi over 5 days. Upon examination there were no nails. But when the wheel was examined there were several cracks in them. This has occurred twice, both times after about 10,000 miles were put on it. Both times it was the left rear wheel. These are the stock black Z06 wheels found on the 2016 model.
Has anyone else had an issue with the wheels cracking?
I am wondering if the metal is fatiguing and failing on that wide wheel under the acceleration/torque put on it.
Those wheels are more than a $1,000 each. I got Chevy to warranty the second failure but not the first one.
Anyone else seeing this?
Has anyone else had an issue with the wheels cracking?
I am wondering if the metal is fatiguing and failing on that wide wheel under the acceleration/torque put on it.
Those wheels are more than a $1,000 each. I got Chevy to warranty the second failure but not the first one.
Anyone else seeing this?
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Mikec7z (08-05-2018)
#16
Melting Slicks
I just bought my car 2 weeks ago and got a great price on it and it's a no brainer as cost really nothing by the time you finance it over 4-5-6 years. It does not change your payment much or if not financing like all said a must plus for tires and wheels it's a steal. My opinion
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Mikec7z (08-05-2018)
#17
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they bend very easily.
I would highly suggest/demand that anyone who buys these cars new get a wheel and tire warranty with zero deductible, with at least 30,000 dollars of total coverage for the 3 or 4 years they own the car.
get the mild to wild exhaust controller, and put your car back into touring mode immediately
should be around 900 dollars for the insurance. If you live on the east coast, they might charge you more, try to get them down to under 1000 and you'll be thankful later. Sometimes you can get it for 300 bucks... ill explain more in a minute...
I would also get the insurance pamphlet and call the insurance company ahead of time and ask them about "aftermarket wheels"... while the contract may say "no aftermarket wheels"... that term, is defined in the contract... and it usually reads "wheels and tires outside of factory spec"
i would then call up cw4l or brixton forged, and tell them you want forged wheels in factory sizes and offsets.. have them send those across to you with part numbers and prices...
i would forward those specs to the insurance company, and ask them if they will cover these wheels if you purchased them... and were to put them on your car immediately at time of purchase with the stock tires still used. Likely, they will respond "yes"... get that in writing, via email, etc, and write it on your contract that they are covered... THEN buy the contract.
IF you never buy the aftermarket wheels, no worries, the contract still covers your stock wheels of course. But if you buy aftermarket wheels at any time, then they will be covered also, and so will the stock tires on those wheels.
most people dont know that you can accomplish this.
I would highly suggest/demand that anyone who buys these cars new get a wheel and tire warranty with zero deductible, with at least 30,000 dollars of total coverage for the 3 or 4 years they own the car.
get the mild to wild exhaust controller, and put your car back into touring mode immediately
should be around 900 dollars for the insurance. If you live on the east coast, they might charge you more, try to get them down to under 1000 and you'll be thankful later. Sometimes you can get it for 300 bucks... ill explain more in a minute...
I would also get the insurance pamphlet and call the insurance company ahead of time and ask them about "aftermarket wheels"... while the contract may say "no aftermarket wheels"... that term, is defined in the contract... and it usually reads "wheels and tires outside of factory spec"
i would then call up cw4l or brixton forged, and tell them you want forged wheels in factory sizes and offsets.. have them send those across to you with part numbers and prices...
i would forward those specs to the insurance company, and ask them if they will cover these wheels if you purchased them... and were to put them on your car immediately at time of purchase with the stock tires still used. Likely, they will respond "yes"... get that in writing, via email, etc, and write it on your contract that they are covered... THEN buy the contract.
IF you never buy the aftermarket wheels, no worries, the contract still covers your stock wheels of course. But if you buy aftermarket wheels at any time, then they will be covered also, and so will the stock tires on those wheels.
most people dont know that you can accomplish this.
#18
he should easily be able to add it on... i would go into his office and say "if you can give me a deal on wheel and tire insurance, i would consider buying it IF there is still time to do so" and then just let him talk himself into it. The deal is not finalized yet, takes 30 days usually, so he can easily make changes. I think you can get it at anytime anyway, but its always cheapest at time of sale.
#19
Miles vary on that. I use America's tire which gets me free flat repair I would have lost money over all after 8 Corvette's if I bought wheel insurance and I have curbed 1 rim total and that was 325.00
The people that don't use it (did it ever occur to you ) may not deem it worth it?
The people that don't use it (did it ever occur to you ) may not deem it worth it?
you have to figure, they have at least 2500lbs of the cars weight pushing down on them due to the weight going to outside tires, plus they have another vector of force laterally 1 g, and again we will say only 2500 of the 3500 is 1 lateral g of force, so the 2 perpendicular vectors of force, combined and calculated a2+b2=c2, basic geometry, you have a lot of force per wheel during hard turning, especially under acceleration and braking during the curve... put well over 2000 to 3000 lbs of total weight on a single wheel, and then it hits a bump.. and the inside of the wheel barrel is not spoked, so it bends easily... and with the caster and camber well all run, the inside lip of the wheel takes a lot of impact during bumps... you are probably talking about over 10,000lbs of force on the wheel at the moment it hits a bump... they bend, its simple.
its game over, they will bend if you drive like this daily, i know not all do, but i do.
To the person asking about their drivers side rear, yes, i have cracked mine, not just bent, but cracked. Many here have.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 08-05-2018 at 09:55 PM.
#20
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yeah, i would go into the finance guy, take the car with you so they dont think anything strange is going on, like fraud and existing damage already.
he should easily be able to add it on... i would go into his office and say "if you can give me a deal on wheel and tire insurance, i would consider buying it IF there is still time to do so" and then just let him talk himself into it. The deal is not finalized yet, takes 30 days usually, so he can easily make changes. I think you can get it at anytime anyway, but its always cheapest at time of sale.
he should easily be able to add it on... i would go into his office and say "if you can give me a deal on wheel and tire insurance, i would consider buying it IF there is still time to do so" and then just let him talk himself into it. The deal is not finalized yet, takes 30 days usually, so he can easily make changes. I think you can get it at anytime anyway, but its always cheapest at time of sale.
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Mikec7z (08-07-2018)