6 Bent OEM wheels, time for a change - help requested
10-06-2018, 11:10 PM
#21
Don't forget to mention getting eaten by a Great White also.
10-07-2018, 06:53 AM
#22
Burning Brakes
I’ve owned 21 Vettes over the past 40+ years and countless regular cars and I don’t remember ever having a bent or cracked wheel. And we live in the pothole capital of the world! I feel bad for you Corvette brother! Best of luck with your new wheels!
10-07-2018, 09:57 AM
#23
I'm not a mind reader and i hate to be the one to say, "i told you so".
But he might wanna keep an eye out for hurricane michael as we speak. It looks like it's heading right towards florida within the next few days.
Like i said, rather bend some wheels and deal with some snow 3-4 months out of the year than to worry about these hurricanes taking out everything i own.
Be safe florida people!
10-07-2018, 04:01 PM
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
So after a healthy amount of reading, post viewing and image searching, I bit the bullet on some new Forgelines from CW4L. I will still get the stock wheels replaced under warranty but moving on to some USA forged metal made the most sense to me right now. The aftermarket warranty coverage will actually cover the new wheels/tires up to the OEM value so while I don't plan on hurting anything further, it's good to know I will have some coverage.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
10-07-2018, 06:14 PM
#25
So after a healthy amount of reading, post viewing and image searching, I bit the bullet on some new Forgelines from CW4L. I will still get the stock wheels replaced under warranty but moving on to some USA forged metal made the most sense to me right now. The aftermarket warranty coverage will actually cover the new wheels/tires up to the OEM value so while I don't plan on hurting anything further, it's good to know I will have some coverage.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
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10-07-2018, 06:35 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
So after a healthy amount of reading, post viewing and image searching, I bit the bullet on some new Forgelines from CW4L. I will still get the stock wheels replaced under warranty but moving on to some USA forged metal made the most sense to me right now. The aftermarket warranty coverage will actually cover the new wheels/tires up to the OEM value so while I don't plan on hurting anything further, it's good to know I will have some coverage.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
Personally, I am not surprised that my Z06 and the new ZR1 have serious traction problems. What would anyone realistically expect when you combine gobs of h/p and torque with ever smaller and more unforgiving sidewall tires, then compounding that problem with making those tires be run flats.
And then I see some folks looking to get even more radical with 21 and 22 inch rims? Why not just wrap a band of rubber around a 25 inch rim? When I was running in a very competitive club series we NEVER considered going over an 18 inch diameter rim. Guess why....
I bought a world class performance sports car. It needs to get lighter (my C6Z weighed under 3100 lbs) and it needs a wheel/tire set-up which better manages its power and torque. People are fixated on adding gobs of power when the car can't put the power it has, as well as it could.
JMO
10-08-2018, 08:38 AM
#27
Race Director
OP. Curious as I have put 6400 or soiles on my Z06 and my buddy over 4k and have not had either happen (yet).
What mode do you drive around in?
what psi do you run?
and have you had the msrc upgrade done yet?
What mode do you drive around in?
what psi do you run?
and have you had the msrc upgrade done yet?
10-08-2018, 08:53 AM
#28
Pro
Thread Starter
I may eventually go the forged wheel route myself. But if I do, I am going tace the 19/20 setup and heavy stiff non flats with much lighter and a bit smaller diameter wheels with lighter and non runflats - maybe Contis, will depend what the best choices are at that time. I am figuring that the new combo will knock off about 40 lbs of unsprung weight (which is about 160 lbs worth of sprung weight equivalent. It will be a major step forward towards my end goal of reducing what I call "functional weight" by about 200 lbs off of its 3525 lbs.
Personally, I am not surprised that my Z06 and the new ZR1 have serious traction problems. What would anyone realistically expect when you combine gobs of h/p and torque with ever smaller and more unforgiving sidewall tires, then compounding that problem with making those tires be run flats.
And then I see some folks looking to get even more radical with 21 and 22 inch rims? Why not just wrap a band of rubber around a 25 inch rim? When I was running in a very competitive club series we NEVER considered going over an 18 inch diameter rim. Guess why....
I bought a world class performance sports car. It needs to get lighter (my C6Z weighed under 3100 lbs) and it needs a wheel/tire set-up which better manages its power and torque. People are fixated on adding gobs of power when the car can't put the power it has, as well as it could.
JMO
Personally, I am not surprised that my Z06 and the new ZR1 have serious traction problems. What would anyone realistically expect when you combine gobs of h/p and torque with ever smaller and more unforgiving sidewall tires, then compounding that problem with making those tires be run flats.
And then I see some folks looking to get even more radical with 21 and 22 inch rims? Why not just wrap a band of rubber around a 25 inch rim? When I was running in a very competitive club series we NEVER considered going over an 18 inch diameter rim. Guess why....
I bought a world class performance sports car. It needs to get lighter (my C6Z weighed under 3100 lbs) and it needs a wheel/tire set-up which better manages its power and torque. People are fixated on adding gobs of power when the car can't put the power it has, as well as it could.
JMO
I think this is all about the road I travel most often to work (287) . There is an area a few miles from my exit where they have patched the road with asphalt (otherwise concrete) in various places. They did not shave down the repair to match the road surface level so effectively it's like hitting a speed bump at 55+ MPH (likely higher....). The asphalt is raised I'd guess an inch or so with no smooth transition. I'm still baffled the left front wheel is still holding up. The rears are bending the barrel area which is to be expected considering how wide they are.
They did this shoddy repair work in all lanes in different spots so while I have the whole area memorized, it's not guaranteed I can switch lanes enough to avoid a problem. It only takes one hit and makes for a frustrating drive to work. I have filed a complaint to the NJ DOT but won't hold my breath on anything happening soon. Maybe the snow plows will smooth things out in a couple months haha.
I could switch up my commute to take the NJ Tpk a couple exits but that would be equally annoying.
I'm doing everything I think I can do to avoid the situation but it's just a bad combination of road surface, commute, speed, etc that don't jive with the cars wheels. I'm willing to bet most folk have a wheel issue but chalk it up to "road feel" from their sports car. If you haven't bent one of these wheels in the NE and drive a considerable amount, I'd consider yourself lucky.
10-08-2018, 09:19 AM
#29
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2015
Location: Darien, IL
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
There is an area a few miles from my exit where they have patched the road with asphalt (otherwise concrete) in various places. They did not shave down the repair to match the road surface level so effectively it's like hitting a speed bump at 55+ MPH (likely higher....). The asphalt is raised I'd guess an inch or so with no smooth transition.
10-08-2018, 10:27 AM
#30
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
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Maybe some production dates are better or worse than others? Quality problems with wheels not meeting specs, and then GM put the screws to the suppliers?
Mine is a '17, and I haven't bent any wheels yet (knock on wood), and Michigan has some really bad roads.
Mine is a '17, and I haven't bent any wheels yet (knock on wood), and Michigan has some really bad roads.
10-08-2018, 10:28 AM
#31
NJ problems lol.
I know the feeling. Well at least you got new wheels on the way. I cant wait to get mine!! Tomorrow!
I know the feeling. Well at least you got new wheels on the way. I cant wait to get mine!! Tomorrow!
10-08-2018, 11:01 AM
#32
Race Director
Yeah. That's some bad luck right there. Only way to get something done at NJ DOT is to contact the commisioner's office and tell them directly
10-08-2018, 11:43 AM
#33
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Huntingdon Valley Pa
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So after a healthy amount of reading, post viewing and image searching, I bit the bullet on some new Forgelines from CW4L. I will still get the stock wheels replaced under warranty but moving on to some USA forged metal made the most sense to me right now. The aftermarket warranty coverage will actually cover the new wheels/tires up to the OEM value so while I don't plan on hurting anything further, it's good to know I will have some coverage.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
The Conti tires will likely get the nod for these and perhaps will use the rest of the MPSS for the occasional track days. I know they aren't the best tire but the grip was pretty decent once warmed up.
10-08-2018, 12:04 PM
#34
Safety Car
Forgestar or any other "rotary forged" are no better than OEM wheels. I bent two Forestar the first day on the car. TRUE STORY. I'm thrilled with the two sets of SIGNATURE wheels I bough. One set in OEM sizing for the street and another in 18" for track.
Outstanding quality for a fraction of the cost of other forged wheels. I don't really give a damn where they're made provided they are a quality product. The Signature wheels quality is as good as any forged wheel on the market.
Outstanding quality for a fraction of the cost of other forged wheels. I don't really give a damn where they're made provided they are a quality product. The Signature wheels quality is as good as any forged wheel on the market.
10-08-2018, 12:12 PM
#35
Team Owner
I actually like the stock cup wheels and have no bending issues.
When they bend the wheels at that rate. There is more than the wheels in play.
10-08-2018, 12:17 PM
#36
Pro
Thread Starter
I keep my stock wheels and tires in the boxes the new wheels and tires come in, that way if I trade the car I put the stockers back on, if I sell it private, it can and has sweetened the deal to sell my cars thru the years too. You will be happy and Gerry is just a good guy to deal with, my buddy.
Forgestar or any other "rotary forged" are no better than OEM wheels. I bent two Forestar the first day on the car. TRUE STORY. I'm thrilled with the two sets of SIGNATURE wheels I bough. One set in OEM sizing for the street and another in 18" for track.
Outstanding quality for a fraction of the cost of other forged wheels. I don't really give a damn where they're made provided they are a quality product. The Signature wheels quality is as good as any forged wheel on the market.
Outstanding quality for a fraction of the cost of other forged wheels. I don't really give a damn where they're made provided they are a quality product. The Signature wheels quality is as good as any forged wheel on the market.
10-08-2018, 12:21 PM
#37
OP congrats on placing an order on the Forgline's. You're going to be extremely happy with them no doubt!
Do you have a photo of the exact model you are referring to? I'll take a look and PM you some options.
10-08-2018, 12:25 PM
#38
Team Owner
I'm not a mind reader and i hate to be the one to say, "i told you so".
But he might wanna keep an eye out for hurricane michael as we speak. It looks like it's heading right towards florida within the next few days.
Like i said, rather bend some wheels and deal with some snow 3-4 months out of the year than to worry about these hurricanes taking out everything i own.
Be safe florida people!
But he might wanna keep an eye out for hurricane michael as we speak. It looks like it's heading right towards florida within the next few days.
Like i said, rather bend some wheels and deal with some snow 3-4 months out of the year than to worry about these hurricanes taking out everything i own.
Be safe florida people!
10-08-2018, 01:55 PM
#39
Forgestar or any other "rotary forged" are no better than OEM wheels. I bent two Forestar the first day on the car. TRUE STORY. I'm thrilled with the two sets of SIGNATURE wheels I bough. One set in OEM sizing for the street and another in 18" for track.
Outstanding quality for a fraction of the cost of other forged wheels. I don't really give a damn where they're made provided they are a quality product. The Signature wheels quality is as good as any forged wheel on the market.
Outstanding quality for a fraction of the cost of other forged wheels. I don't really give a damn where they're made provided they are a quality product. The Signature wheels quality is as good as any forged wheel on the market.
I have had 2 sets of forgestars, (waiting on my 3rd set tomorrow) and those sets were flawless. And that was during the time i didn't really "look out for" symptoms contributing to bent wheels. I only started to be cautious about it more now, because of reading these threads. I never knew OEM wheels were this weak until recently from these threads.
I really think it's the tires that are the culprit. Not so much the wheel itself.
Crappy constructed wheel, tires with really stiff sidewalls, leaving car in sport/track = inevitable bent wheel
I can't wait for my forgestars!
10-08-2018, 04:23 PM
#40
Safety Car
If anyone is interested here's a post I made some time back addressing the bending of the OEM wheels. I did a real quick qualitative failure analysis identifying the many contributing factors:
Causal analysis dictates accidents/undesired events are NEVER the result of a single cause. The theory in failure analysis is the "Principle of Multiple Causes". Specific to bending wheels on the C7Z there are a good number of multiple causes. For a "bad thing" to happen all of the multiple causes are encountered/occur simultaneously. Several of the many multiple causes that pop to mind relative to the topic at hand:
1. Thin sidewall on low profile tires.
2. Stiff sidewall construction.
3. Very wide wheels resulting in a large moment arm at the outside edge of the wheel.
4. Very tall (i.e., 19" and 20") wheels resulting in minimal structural support at the outside of the wheel. large moment arm.
5. Very wide wheels resulting in minimial structural support/strength along the entire barrel.
6. Thin, lightweight wheels.
7. Inadequate mechanical integrity/strength in wheel design.
8. Stiff suspension regardless of what mode you're running.
9. High speed shock compression is very slow to provide performance.
10. Limited shock travel for handling performance.
11. Roads with surface irregularities.
12. Etc, etc, etc.
Dig deep back into your grey matter to the days of Physics classes and the Conservation of Energy principle. Specifically, "energy can neither be created nor destroyed". The energy has to go somewhere when an event occurs. Typically the weakest part of the system as a whole absorbs/dissipates most of the energy.
Test question: Where is the weakest part of the system in the case of a car traveling on imperfact roads at somewhat high speeds with a stiff shock/spring suspension with relatively short shock travel utilizing tall, wide wheels and tires with stiff, thin sidewalls?
Winner, winner, chicken dinner...
Rick
P.S. MUCH too much discussion and significance is being placed on what suspension setting is being used. It really doesn't matter as it's a relatively MINIMAL contributing factor.
Causal analysis dictates accidents/undesired events are NEVER the result of a single cause. The theory in failure analysis is the "Principle of Multiple Causes". Specific to bending wheels on the C7Z there are a good number of multiple causes. For a "bad thing" to happen all of the multiple causes are encountered/occur simultaneously. Several of the many multiple causes that pop to mind relative to the topic at hand:
1. Thin sidewall on low profile tires.
2. Stiff sidewall construction.
3. Very wide wheels resulting in a large moment arm at the outside edge of the wheel.
4. Very tall (i.e., 19" and 20") wheels resulting in minimal structural support at the outside of the wheel. large moment arm.
5. Very wide wheels resulting in minimial structural support/strength along the entire barrel.
6. Thin, lightweight wheels.
7. Inadequate mechanical integrity/strength in wheel design.
8. Stiff suspension regardless of what mode you're running.
9. High speed shock compression is very slow to provide performance.
10. Limited shock travel for handling performance.
11. Roads with surface irregularities.
12. Etc, etc, etc.
Dig deep back into your grey matter to the days of Physics classes and the Conservation of Energy principle. Specifically, "energy can neither be created nor destroyed". The energy has to go somewhere when an event occurs. Typically the weakest part of the system as a whole absorbs/dissipates most of the energy.
Test question: Where is the weakest part of the system in the case of a car traveling on imperfact roads at somewhat high speeds with a stiff shock/spring suspension with relatively short shock travel utilizing tall, wide wheels and tires with stiff, thin sidewalls?
Winner, winner, chicken dinner...
Rick
P.S. MUCH too much discussion and significance is being placed on what suspension setting is being used. It really doesn't matter as it's a relatively MINIMAL contributing factor.