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What happens with the coolant line that runs from the block, through the og oil cooler, then through the secondary radiator and back to the main radiator? I think most of the kits block it off.
in mikes thread he explains leaving the stock oil cooler brick in place is ideal.and instead tying the chin oil cooler into the return scavenger line back to the sump tank, while still using a similar thermostatic valve, which bypasses the cooler when the oil is cold. Only when the oil is hot, is the cooler used, and when the oil is hot, there is very little pressure drop on the single pass cooler, so the scavenger pump can handle the load.
the stock oil cooler brick actually warms the oil when the car is cold. This is equally important.
but, relocation of the coolers first. One step at a time here
So where exactly do you tap into that line? I'm guessing somewhere on the passenger side where the tank is? I'm planning to put a cooler in sometime soon.
So where exactly do you tap into that line? I'm guessing somewhere on the passenger side where the tank is? I'm planning to put a cooler in sometime soon.
exactly... the exit line from the block/pan comes out the passenger side and up to the dry sump tank.
the dry sump tank even has a swirl pot system that eliminates the air from the oil.
so there are no negative tradeoffs to running the oil through the cooler.
oil changes take longer of course. Drain the oil lines and cooler by disconnecting at lowest point on the cooler. Refilling oil takes longer. Oil has to get OVER the thermo valve temp to fully refill the cooler. So more oil level checks/top offs are necessary after oil changes.
the exit line up to the tank can be unplugged from the pan, and that line is now tied into after the cooler... at the added thernostatic fitting. A new line is added from the pan to the thermostatic fitting.
2 other new lines added from the fitting to the oil cooler in and out. Do the oil cooler out at the highest port.. so air does not get trapped in cooler and instead works it's way out.
The thermo fitting is basically a 4 port fitting, 2 ins, 2 outs... and will be over on the passenger side of the engine.
the cooler loop/path is the optional path, upon the oil becoming hot enough to activate the thermo switch in the fitting.
advanced racing sells this thermo valve as well
it always flows 15% of the oil through the cooler, even if the car is cold. This is important as it starts warming up the oil in the cooler... so a sudden switch does not occur, and then the dry sump pump encounters a huge load suddenly.
instead, it is gradual and works perfectly.
Last edited by RoxyCarter; 11-22-2018 at 07:31 PM.
So I wouldn't need an additional pump to do it that way? Other than where it connects it's as simple/complicated one way as the other. I saw the valve a couple of weeks ago when I was on their site. I just don't want to end up somehow starving the engine for oil or getting a vapor lock because I tied in in the wrong place.
I know you don't know me from.adam, but we have tested it.
we aren't trying to go into business.
but the people I hang with, solve problems at a faster pace than most.
watch your oil pressure at all times after the mod.
if you see it drop, unplug it all and run it the way everyone else does with the fitting in the stock oil cooler location. Bit of a hassle, but not the end of the world.
you won't have any problems tho.
you can be the first to "prove it works" here on the forum
we are not interested in doing so at this time.
I'll even delete this post.. you can have 100% of the credit. But it does work. I promise.
Last edited by RoxyCarter; 11-22-2018 at 07:20 PM.
I know you don't know me from.adam, but we have tested it.
we aren't trying to go into business.
but the people I hang with, solve problems at a faster pace than most.
watch your oil pressure at all times after the mod.
if you see it drop, unplug it all and run it the way everyone else does with the fitting in the stock oil cooler location. Bit of a hassle, but not the end of the world.
you won't have any problems tho.
you can be the first to "prove it works" here on the forum
we are not interested in doing so at this time.
I'll even delete this post.. you can have 100% of the credit. But it does work. I promise.
I don't care anything about credit. One of my concerns about removing the factory cooler was pressure drop. Sounds like there wouldn't be a lot this way. I'm guessing another couple of quarts of oil but otherwise not a lot of difference. I would almost guess zero pressure drop with it on that side. I'm heading to VIR tomorrow but I'll try to look at it in a couple of weeks. I have a knee procedure being done next week and I won't be able to get under the car. It sounds reasonable and if it doesn't work as well that way all I'd have to do is go back and run the lines down the other side of the engine and replace the factory cooler.
I like the idea of letting the factory cooler warm the oil up. I'd just need to figure out the fittings to go from the factory line to the thermostat and from the thermostat back to the tank.
Exactly, zero engine oil pressure drop. Same as it was stock.
chance of starvation if dry sump scavenger pump fails, but so far, so good. I would venture to say, once warmed up, it's less load through the cooler than the scavenger sump has when car is cold going through stock line.
actually worries us most at cold starts since cold oil has to squeeze through the fitting, so watch oil pressure then.
Fittings are easy. 4 fittings that go into the thermo valve... new.
2 fittings for oil cooler. Figure out what size hose you want to run, and the stock fitting that was used into the pan... buy a new one of those... or cut the line and splice down, and recycle the original fitting to the pan.
hose up the dry sump tank remains untouched, just add the new fitting to attach that hose to the advanced racing 4 way thermo valve.
I'm out for tonight tho.
Happy thanksgiving
Last edited by RoxyCarter; 11-27-2018 at 04:31 AM.
mikes front feed, coolers, are 2 of the setrab coolers shown above by LG.
these front feed coolers replace the bottom flat cooler and takes its place, they don't sit on top.
read to comprehend, not to argue.
no one has what Mike thought up... yet.
DeWitt soon to be released product are 2 small coolers Laying flat.
Mike prefers LG cooler shown above over DeWitts.
he has made that clear.
EDIT:
Mike and Hess say buy 2 of these LG coolers, and removed the flat cooler. Put the 2 LG coolers forward facing.
Blue is where LG puts it.
Red is where Mike puts it.
yellow is a diagonal up plate attached to top of cooler to snag incoming air IF coolers are sitting down too low. If they are up enough, the yellow plate is not needed.
pressure still forces air into the coolers, even if the chin of the fascia is in the way slightly.
below is a side view. Either cooler can be clocked 20 degrees, the second one being clocked 45 degrees in the diagram is extreme. 20 or 30 degree is plenty. Sitting flat is fine also... must be forward facing, not up/down like the thin stock chin hx
Mike says the rear cooler is plugged into the lines of the stock flat laying cooler. The Setrab will cool the auto trans or manual z06 HX, more than the flat laying stock thin one does.
Mike and Hess say to buy 2 of these LG cooler kits, and put them in the bottom... not the top.
They like the product. (There are thicker coolers than the ones LG pictured above, and those work slightly better, not hard for LG to swap to the thicker ones and charge a bit more money)
You only need one of the Improved Racing fittings, as the second cooler is not plugged into engine block, but instead the existing hard lines that plug into the flat stock chin cooler.
LG is right there, inches from perfection compared to the competition... just move it down and sell twice the coolers
Happy thanksgiving everyone
Our products aren't set in stone. Racers modify as needed/per application, if a different location is desired customer would just need to give us a call to discuss set up. We've run dual chin coolers on in house builds and seen great results. The advertised location was chosen for effectiveness and ease of installation.
Originally Posted by badhabit_wb
What happens with the coolant line that runs from the block, through the og oil cooler, then through the secondary radiator and back to the main radiator? I think most of the kits block it off.
You just run the line from the radiator to the secondary radiator and take the OEM oil cooler out of the loop. That's how we set up the NBR car.
I must be having a senior moment. One line to the secondary radiator comes from the main radiator the second line goes to the oem oil cooler and then into a fitting in a freeze plug. How exactly do you route that line to the radiator and what would it do if you did. The way it's routed it flows back into the block from the radiator.
I must be having a senior moment. One line to the secondary radiator comes from the main radiator the second line goes to the oem oil cooler and then into a fitting in a freeze plug. How exactly do you route that line to the radiator and what would it do if you did. The way it's routed it flows back into the block from the radiator.
I was having a junior moment. The point on the radiator that feeds the OEM oil cooler is blocked off and we supply a new freeze plug. I didn't really think about it and responded based on what you said previously.
I was having a junior moment. The point on the radiator that feeds the OEM oil cooler is blocked off and we supply a new freeze plug. I didn't really think about it and responded based on what you said previously.
So so basically the secondary radiator is completely bypassed?
So so basically the secondary radiator is completely bypassed?
No I'm pretty sure the aux radiator ties in to the main radiator hoses rather than the line out to the oil cooler block. I haven't been in the shop as much since we built the black car but we definitely ran the oil cooler and aux radiator on that one though so I know it's possible just can't remember how the lines ran.
[QUOTE=Dane@LGmotorsports;1598383187]No I'm pretty sure the aux radiator ties in to the main radiator hoses rather than the line out to the oil cooler block. I haven't been in the shop as much since we built the black car but we definitely ran the oil cooler and aux radiator on that one though so I know it's possible just can't remember how the lines ran.[/QUOT
Thanks. I'm out of town so I'll crawl back under and look at it when I get home. I was pretty sure it ran back through the oil cooler but it's tight under there so I may have missed something.
No I'm pretty sure the aux radiator ties in to the main radiator hoses rather than the line out to the oil cooler block. I haven't been in the shop as much since we built the black car but we definitely ran the oil cooler and aux radiator on that one though so I know it's possible just can't remember how the lines ran.[/QUOT
Thanks. I'm out of town so I'll crawl back under and look at it when I get home. I was pretty sure it ran back through the oil cooler but it's tight under there so I may have missed something.
Found a time lapse picture from when we were building the black car. You can see a 90 coming off the hose on the top right corner of the radiator.
4 questions, will the LG oil cooler work on a base model Corvette C7 (NONE Z51), what would be the new oil capacity, any PDF instructions soon and is their a place to drain the radiator during oil changes?��
4 questions, will the LG oil cooler work on a base model Corvette C7 (NONE Z51), what would be the new oil capacity, any PDF instructions soon and is their a place to drain the radiator during oil changes?��
Yes it will work on a base model car. If by radiator you are referring to the oil cooler yes you can disconnect the fittings from the adapter block if you would like to drain the cooler.
11-22-2018, 06:47 PM
