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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Your input on tires for the street?
I need some input on tires. For those of you that drive your car hard what tires have stuck the best for you? I want to run 19/20 on the street but even on lowest boost the Nitto Invo 285/345 will not hold predictably in 80+ degree weather with fully heated tires.
Is there any tire that would do better on the rear 20 x 12? How are the MP SC tires? I really want to keep my 360 forged 19/20 setup but am hesitant to get into the throttle with the Nitto Invos. Maybe I just need to accept the fact that I now need to run the drag pack if I want to hit the pedal hard. i HATE small wheels.
In my experience the Sport Cup 2 is excellent for road course use, but not great for a highway pulls and high HP street car use. The SC2 takes too long to get to temp on the street (on a warm day and driving fast on the highway, they will still be too cold and spin) and even at temp, SC2 just isn't all that great for straight line. If you really want to keep something in 19 or 20" sizes that can also handle, the R888R is your best bet. Not sure how it will work for 1000hp, but will probably at least allow for 3rd gear pulls. After that, you'll need a drag radial in at 18" or smaller.
I love driving around on my PSS tires and being able to survive a light mist, lol, which is why I'm debating just staying at 650rwhp. If I add big power next year, I'll be in the same situation as well. Always a compromise with big power RWD cars sadly. Best of luck!
The tire situation kind of sucks for 20" wheels, it's why I stepped down to a square 19" setup front/rear. Invos are terrible tires, sport cups are terrible when cold and aren't particularly good straight line, R888R is probably your best bet.
I have had GREAT success with MT ET SS Drags. Unfortunately, they quit producing these for our factory size a couple of years ago. You have to call around to find them
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by jabeasley1
I have had GREAT success with MT ET SS Drags. Unfortunately, they quit producing these for our factory size a couple of years ago. You have to call around to find them
Factory size. 335/25/20. I called no less than 100 places because although you might find a set online, being IN STOCK is a different story. I found my last set in Canada. From my understanding they quit producing these because of OUT OF ROUND issues. For my last 3 sets, I have had 0 issues. I run Nitto Invos on the front and the MT ET SS drags on the rear. I daily drive mine and get about 5K a set. That is with multiple AutoX weekends, Drag Strip Weekends, and roll racing. I can honestly say, if it were my choice, I would NEVER change my setup. I do not play the spinning game like many people do
I run Toyo T1R, rears 345/25/20 100Y
fronts 275/30/19 96Y. 10,000 miles plenty of tread. Run them at the Mojave magnum mile
197mph no issues. $1,100 out the door
If you don't need to go around curves, then MT drag radials.
If you need to go around turns, then the stock MPSS is the best tire for the street.
Grass is not greener on the other side.
Any tire that handles a curve well is NOT going to grip for a car making 900rwhp at 80mph consistently.
As you read in the viper thread, check the rear alignment/caster, and someone who can do it correctly and does not just lie and say they did it (most people have no clue we have found, you'll check the car 5 min later and it will be a different rear caster reading, and they will be too lazy to work on it any further)
Learn to feather the throttle at 80 and enjoy more power at 140.
If a car gets grip at 80mph, it does not have enough power yet
I run Toyo T1R, rears 345/25/20 100Y
fronts 275/30/19 96Y. 10,000 miles plenty of tread. Run them at the Mojave magnum mile
197mph no issues. $1,100 out the door
Since this is just an "ultra-high performance" tire, it's considered lower than "max performance". I ran this tire back in the early 2000s when it was the full triangle tread (no horizontal tread on the sides) on my stealth R/T turbo, but I was like 20 back then and it was all wheel drive with all of about 350 wheel hp, so probably the worst tire in the world would have gripped. I can't remotely speak to it's traction these days in the Z06. What kind of 60ft time are you getting with those? Or 0-60, either way is fine. I would be quite happy to put those on my car as they are cheaper, look cooler, last longer, and guaranteed have better wet traction than ANY drag radial and probably the PSSs too. I can't see that they can put down bottom end acceleration, but man I'm hopeful! Let us know!
Used Nitto Invos for 2 years street driving, they worked good in the rain, GREAT compared to cup tires in the wet, good traction and handling on the street, not good on the track
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by HessViper
If you don't need to go around curves, then MT drag radials.
If you need to go around turns, then the stock MPSS is the best tire for the street.
Grass is not greener on the other side.
Any tire that handles a curve well is NOT going to grip for a car making 900rwhp at 80mph consistently.
As you read in the viper thread, check the rear alignment/caster, and someone who can do it correctly and does not just lie and say they did it (most people have no clue we have found, you'll check the car 5 min later and it will be a different rear caster reading, and they will be too lazy to work on it any further)
Learn to feather the throttle at 80 and enjoy more power at 140.
If a car gets grip at 80mph, it does not have enough power yet
The MT ET R are absolutely amazing. Slip very little on the street at 750-850 and barely on a good prepped track at 850-950. I just hate the 18/18 combo although the car handles surprisingly well with the ET R at 32psi and the fronts at 42psi
I will just have baby it at lowest boost on the street and turn it up a little when I swap the drag pack on.
gas pedal is the ultimate boost controller. It is controlled by the greatest ecu in the car. The boost controller should be at max psi at all times, fuel permitting.
Mike used to own 1000 hp turbo vettes. He can come over to tampa and show you everything is tamable, just takes practice. He can take the turbo car you have the dyno of above, and he can take it around curves just as fast as in the viper thread video. Lose the idea that you should be able to go WOT at any time, and you'll be fine. Its all about feel. Moderation/skill.
FWIW, Ron Fellowes racing school buys cars with the Z07 package, removes the Cup 2s and replaces them with the standard Pilot Sports that come on the non-Z07 cars. They said the Cup 2s would not last long enough, and for what they do the Pilot Sports are fine. They certainly felt great to me, although I probably only took them to about 50% of their ability. --Bob
how do the traction control and other nannies apply to the turbo car, do they still function well? If you notice in the viper thread video, the computer is activating a nanny while he is hitting the curves, he almost has the car into a slight drift, but the acceleration puts more weight onto the rear tires, so they get more grip than they would if the car was not under acceleration.
His fear is if the nannies don't remain properly calibrated on the high hp turbo cars and do something unexpected or unintended.
The thread where the guy at the drag strip runs his z06 into the wall is a perfect example, Mike said he did not believe it was driver error, but rather a mechanical/nanny error where the car "thought" it was sliding out of control due to wheel speed sensor readings, and as a result, attempted to correct vehicle angle, and put him into the wall against his will.
Mike says he has been in vettes that have done this, and he stays far away from them, as he does not know how to remedy it, but he can tell as he starts to push cars when they are "out of sync" so to speak.
He is worried the turbo cars may inherently run into this problem as the power does not apply/build in the fashion GM programmed the nannies to understand, but he does not know this to be a problem for sure, as he has not played with any 1000hp c7's yet.
I run Toyo T1R, rears 345/25/20 100Y
fronts 275/30/19 96Y. 10,000 miles plenty of tread. Run them at the Mojave magnum mile
197mph no issues. $1,100 out the door
Since this is just an "ultra-high performance" tire, it's considered lower than "max performance". I ran this tire back in the early 2000s when it was the full triangle tread (no horizontal tread on the sides) on my stealth R/T turbo, but I was like 20 back then and it was all wheel drive with all of about 350 wheel hp, so probably the worst tire in the world would have gripped. I can't remotely speak to it's traction these days in the Z06. What kind of 60ft time are you getting with those? Or 0-60, either way is fine. I would be quite happy to put those on my car as they are cheaper, look cooler, last longer, and guaranteed have better wet traction than ANY drag radial and probably the PSSs too. I can't see that they can put down bottom end acceleration, but man I'm hopeful! Let us know!
@andreas g. did you happen to see this? I'm genuinely curious as to how the T1R performs nowadays on a launch. They make it in the right sizes for factory wheels on the Z so I'd be very interested in it if it has solid off the line traction.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by HessViper
Mike used to own 1000 hp turbo vettes. He can come over to tampa and show you everything is tamable, just takes practice. He can take the turbo car you have the dyno of above, and he can take it around curves just as fast as in the viper thread video. Lose the idea that you should be able to go WOT at any time, and you'll be fine. Its all about feel. Moderation/skill.
If you say so bro. Driving a stock or bolt on ZO6 is not even in the same universe. I am not an expert driver by any means but have had 17 C5/6/7 cars including H/C, Blower and turbo. What your saying sounds good. Everyone is an expert until the TC button comes off. LOL In a turbo car with port injection on top of DI leavng the TC on does all kinds of weird things that feel like they could damage drivetrain and other parts; hence my quest to find a 20" tire that I could run on lowest boost setting on the street. Now that the temps are dropping from 95/75 to 80/60 this thing can get out of hand QUICKLY.
Last edited by Cajun @ Edgyvette; 11-01-2018 at 11:59 AM.
10-29-2018, 10:55 AM
Your input on tires for the street?
i HATE small wheels.
