... this mike...

See post #22 revs per mile, and circumference. That’s your answer for t/c issues. Look up the rolling circumference of the tire, the revolutions per mile also for the various tire combos. Should be on the manufacturer’s websiteor tire rack maybe. If the ratio between the front and the back is essentially the same, the wheel speed variance that triggers the various nannies will be same as stock, and despite the speedometer being off if it’s not the same revs per mile, the ratio being correct should make the computers believe the car is behaving the same as if the stock tires are on. I’ve no idea about those tires, but high soft sidewalls don’t sound like a good choice for a car that comes with a suspension tuned for stiff, short sidewalk zp tires. Soft sidewalls that are tall give you a lot of warning before they break free as a rule ( think about any race car tire from nascar to f1, taller sidewalls than our cars by far, so there must be a reason. DR’s flex so they don’t get overpowered by torque load, not side g load) .
I can’t add anything about rim width fitment, other than too narrow a rim for a given will ballon the tire, narrowing the effective contact patch, probably not helpful, as well as increasing the circumference and decreasing the revs per mile.
As far as rub, depends where the rub is, anybody try changing the ride height?
There are so many great looking tires out there that aren’t sized for our cars, but look amazing. Good luck with the trials...
myself, I love the way they look with scrubs slicks on them!

You may not get the tc issue until the car is substantially yawed and the wheel speed variance is occurring in the more liberal drive modes. If the computers get values that aren’t on the maps, or get inputs that lead to incorrect solutions for the situation that could be messy.

So this is a great thread for once, not just silly sniping, some good info. Sorry for the multiple posts, I was adding before reading to the end! A question regarding post #71.
So how can the speed at which you hit the brakes trigger the ice mode? The system samples in fractions of a second for wheel speed, rate of change, brake pedal pressure, line pressure, at least what 60 times a second? Abs specifically samples the differences in wheel speed and modulates the brake pressure at the master for the wheel where it senses lockup or impending lockup- in other words where it senses a tire not turning at the speed expected compared to the others, for what it believes is the speed of the car. People just can’t change parameters so fast as to outrun the computers ability to sample, I’d think. Applying maximum braking pressure, and creating a lock up, or impending lock up scenario, at all four corners would be difficult, due to the forward weight transfer the rears would lock way faster than the fronts as they are substantially unweighted... There’s a tadge comment on this :
“The key to understanding this phenomenon is that a true ‘ice mode’ where specific calibrations are changed due to distinct surface detection doesn’t exist in any way”
I’ve applied the brakes in many cars literally as hard as I possibly can trying to get lock up and have never experienced it ( ice mode), On tracks and the street both. It seems that “ice mode” is an abberancy when inputs are outside the parameters of the abs map, usually due to equipment mods or very confusing inputs to the abs computer from curb strikes, or other sudden unweighting events, during heavy braking inputs.
Thanks for the great pics of different tires and good discussion compared to “buy this bauble” threads

Good thread, will consider some of these.

I too think your wheels are way 😎. I have been watching this thread for some time now thinking the R888s may be my next set. I’m very pleased with my Pirelli’s in the stock sizes but would like the additional traction of the Toyo’s without going to drag radials for the street. When I Autocross and/or track I remount my Michelin Sport Cup2’s on OEM wheels for the extra traction. The Sport Cup 2’s however suck for drag races as I can’t seem to get them hot enough during burn outs prior to the runs and they hold on to gravel picked up on return roads so hard the small stones have to be dug out with a screw driver. Hoping the Toyo’s will be better.