New Z06 Owner! Track Day Next Week!
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
New Z06 Owner! Track Day Next Week!
Hi,
I'm happy to just sign up in this Huge Forum! I purchased a C7 Z06/Z07 Pack! Taking the car to the Track next Week (can't wait) And i have some questions and i need your support:
1) I know That CCB disks and pads are extremely expensive for a guy who would use the car in trackdays! What are the best steel brakes replacement option!
2) planning to buy Finspeed F110's (18x13 - 18x11), will they fit the CCB Brakes?
3) heard alot about the Heat Soak issues, any recommendations before hitting the track?
The Car is Manual, all fluids changed, running CUP2 Tires, Camber ( -2) front and rear,
i'll make sure to record the lap and post it
thanks
I'm happy to just sign up in this Huge Forum! I purchased a C7 Z06/Z07 Pack! Taking the car to the Track next Week (can't wait) And i have some questions and i need your support:
1) I know That CCB disks and pads are extremely expensive for a guy who would use the car in trackdays! What are the best steel brakes replacement option!
2) planning to buy Finspeed F110's (18x13 - 18x11), will they fit the CCB Brakes?
3) heard alot about the Heat Soak issues, any recommendations before hitting the track?
The Car is Manual, all fluids changed, running CUP2 Tires, Camber ( -2) front and rear,
i'll make sure to record the lap and post it
thanks
#2
Melting Slicks
Best replacement option is probably the AP racing brake kit. I have a full front/rear set for sale, private message me if you want details. The pads with the AP kit last way longer than stock because they are almost twice as thick and the rotors are only $350-$400/ea to replace.
if you have a manual it will be very hard to overheat it, especially 2017+ many of us have tracked these in 90+ weather and no issues.
as far as alignment goes the most critical component is rear caster, that needs to be at +.7* to +1.0* this is what DSC sport recommends. If you have a 2015-2018 z06 you can run the dsc controller which oddly enough I’m selling as well.
if you have a manual it will be very hard to overheat it, especially 2017+ many of us have tracked these in 90+ weather and no issues.
as far as alignment goes the most critical component is rear caster, that needs to be at +.7* to +1.0* this is what DSC sport recommends. If you have a 2015-2018 z06 you can run the dsc controller which oddly enough I’m selling as well.
Last edited by Pacembellum; 12-02-2018 at 10:42 AM.
#3
Also, I'd go with 18x12 rear wheels but you might get away with 18x12.5. The 18x13 will contact the upper control arm at full droop which makes mounting them more difficult to do correctly and you can also wear a groove in the control arm.
#4
Le Mans Master
Make sure the brakes have been burnished before you go if you’re going to use the ccb for the track day. Like poorsha said I’d go a little smaller on the rear wheel.
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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Best replacement option is probably the AP racing brake kit. I have a full front/rear set for sale, private message me if you want details. The pads with the AP kit last way longer than stock because they are almost twice as thick and the rotors are only $350-$400/ea to replace.
if you have a manual it will be very hard to overheat it, especially 2017+ many of us have tracked these in 90+ weather and no issues.
as far as alignment goes the most critical component is rear caster, that needs to be at +.7* to +1.0* this is what DSC sport recommends. If you have a 2015-2018 z06 you can run the dsc controller which oddly enough I’m selling as well.
if you have a manual it will be very hard to overheat it, especially 2017+ many of us have tracked these in 90+ weather and no issues.
as far as alignment goes the most critical component is rear caster, that needs to be at +.7* to +1.0* this is what DSC sport recommends. If you have a 2015-2018 z06 you can run the dsc controller which oddly enough I’m selling as well.
The AP Racing Kit is probably your best bet. If you do a lot of track days you will break even on the front kit price once you reach the point you need to replace the rotor rings. You will reach break even on the rear kit the day you purchase it.
As for the wheels I have run 18x13 in the rear without any UCA wear issues. Yes, the rim will rub the control arm at full droop but I only find that to be an issue when installing the wheels and torquing them. Before torquing the lug nuts I make sure the suspension is depressed some so the rim lifts off the uca. Another way to prevent issues is to run a small spacer (about 0.3 inches works fine).
Bill
#6
Former Vendor
As for the 18" wheels, the F110 will clear your stock brakes as well as the AP kit due to the forging profile we use. 18" is a good choice as there are a lot more tire options from you to pick from. Depending on what lightening options you chose, the F110 is going to end up around 9-10 lbs lighter per wheel than the OEM. It has significantly better moment of inertia, has far better deflection numbers, and will be substantially more robust. Not only do we do FEA simulation on our wheels in ANSYS, our wheels are lab tested to extremely high load ratings using racing slicks, not street tires.
Keep us posted!
Last edited by Finspeed; 12-05-2018 at 07:18 AM.