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OP, can't hurt to check your SC coolant bottle located under the air intake box passenger side. Its hard to see but there should only be a small bubble like the one in this picture. Over the years a few were not filled properly at the factory and those cars had issues especially on the track. This is our 15 Z that has been heavily tracked and never a over heat or even limp mode so this bubble should be considered normal.
Changed to 80/20 mix today. Drove 35 miles tonight. It's 72F out, warm night in January, but not usual here. Took it super easy. Water never went below 210F, oil did drop as low as 196.
Ran on I-95 for about 12 miles with the cruise on in 7th gear. This seems fine for street driving. On the track though, this is a terrible place to start.
Will try to burp air out of the radiator tomorrow.
212F water, 196F oil
Your car seems to be right in the same range with many of us.
I don't know if you've seen this older thread about tracking & coolant temps but since you're considering tracking your car you might want to check it out. The 2017 is an M7 Z07, the 2016 is an M7 Z06, & the 2015 is an A8 Z07.
anything under 222 degrees is NORMAL. Where between about 190 and 220 your car runs is completely due to variability in location, driving style, and other variables. This isn't much different than arguing about dyno numbers done on different dynos in different locations on different days in different weather.
There is going to be variance. 190 and 220 are the exact same temperature when you are trying to define NORMAL.
Last edited by Higgs Boson; 01-03-2019 at 08:46 PM.
update...
Ran it at idle with the radiator cap off and plastic over the electrical box next to the overflow tank. Took about 15 minutes to get to 210F, gurgling more as it got close. Fan came on at 210F, and I shut it off just as a few drops overflowed. Let it cool down for about 2 1/2 hours with a towel over the opening where the cap should be.
Added close to a quart of water to bring it back up to the “cold fill” line. Capped it off and will drive it today.
I notice on my 2016 Z06 A8 that if I am running in Drive my temps tend to stay in the 195-205 range. When I change to paddle shifting in Manual mode the temps almost always run in the 215-225 range. I surmise that it is related to rpms. When In Drive it automatically shifts to a higher gear lowering the rpms to maybe 1200-1500, When I use paddle shifters I always am shifting at maybe 2500-3000 or holding the car in a lower gear than the Drive mode would. If I manually shift up to a higher gear and lower the rpms the temps drop. Maybe being a manual you are simply keeping the engine at a higher engine speed and therefore generating the higher temps. Still, as several have noted, your range is still within normal operating range. As an experiment on a drive you might try shifting up enough to keep the rpms in the 1200-1500 range and see if it makes a difference. --Bob
anything under 222 degrees is NORMAL. Where between about 190 and 220 your car runs is completely due to variability in location, driving style, and other variables. This isn't much different than arguing about dyno numbers done on different dynos in different locations on different days in different weather.
There is going to be variance. 190 and 220 are the exact same temperature when you are trying to define NORMAL.
well the problem is anything about 194 ECT and the engine is pulling timing: -1 at 194, -3 at 212, -5 at 230 (according to the tables I saw a long time ago while we were discussing cooling upgrades). How can you say that 190 and 220 are the same. So you're saying while highway cruising in 60 degree weather, the car is down on timing and that's normal?
Same for IAT >130. What IATs are you seeing cruising on a stock z06?
Agreed with Mad dog! You need to checkout the Coolant tank. If it is only half full, do an Intercooler purge. Worked for me on track!
Intercooler tank is a separate system. I checked the “bubbles” after my test drive, before I bought the car. They were small. The intercooler tank is clearly bigger than a friend’s 17 Z06. I think they made it larger for ‘19, same part as the ZR1.
The issue is that water temp during light driving is high, not a good place to start.
Cooling did appear to jump in quickly when I’ve driven it hard. I did a bunch of 50-120 runs(a friend of a friend owns an airstrip nearby) and temps stayed down, water under 220F. That’s a good sign. Won’t really know until I get to the track in mid February.
1. well the problem is anything about 194 ECT and the engine is pulling timing: -1 at 194, -3 at 212, -5 at 230 (according to the tables I saw a long time ago while we were discussing cooling upgrades).
2. How can you say that 190 and 220 are the same.
3. So you're saying while highway cruising in 60 degree weather, the car is down on timing and that's normal?
4.Same for IAT >130. What IATs are you seeing cruising on a stock z06?
1. yes it pulls timing over 194, however, don't forget the multipliers.....
2. I said 190 and 220 are the same when defining what is normal operating temperature. I didn't say 190 and 220 are the same temperature.
3. this is an interesting statement. you say it is "down on timing" cruising but how can you say it's down on timing when there is no baseline reference timing value? It is not down on timing, it is running as much timing as possible without knocking at all times. The ECT and IAT tables are proactive, not reactive, so even though they pull a couple degrees the overall system still raises spark to the point of knock then backs off a bit. If you think the baseline for spark is the Hi Octane table, well it's not, it is just one piece in the puzzle of final spark, it's only a starting point. If you zero all the modifiers (IAT, ECT, VVT, lambda, etc etc) and disable the knock sensors and run off the stock Hi Octane table only the engine will knock. the whole argument for manipulating the modifiers is academic and primarily a tuning practice to gain more control over spark output when you have a modified engine (not just bolt on mods) and MBT for a given load and RPM has changed. you don't want something messing with your work while you are working on it. The OEM has no interest or benefit in running LESS than optimal spark timing, especially at cruise.
4. doesn't apply to me, I have a whipple and cam, etc.
well the problem is anything about 194 ECT and the engine is pulling timing: -1 at 194, -3 at 212, -5 at 230 (according to the tables I saw a long time ago while we were discussing cooling upgrades).
My understanding is that reducing timing advance at higher temperatures doesn't necessarily sacrifice power. The speed of combustion is higher at higher temperatures, so combustion needs be initiated a little later, to achieve maximum cylinder pressure at the same piston and crankshaft position.
My understanding is that reducing timing advance at higher temperatures doesn't necessarily sacrifice power. The speed of combustion is higher at higher temperatures, so combustion needs be initiated a little later, to achieve maximum cylinder pressure at the same piston and crankshaft position.
Higgs, if I'm off on that, please correct me.
you are correct however I think in this specific case GM is just trying to avoid preignition and detonation.
What kind of temps are normal for the car just idling for a while? I've never paid attention to that. I haven't driven my car in 2 weeks so I thought I'd let the battery charge for a bit & left it idling in the driveway around 5pm today. It was 65 degrees outside & coolant climbed up to 203.
That sounds very normal, my car is warmer idling than cruising.
Originally Posted by Oneslackr
What kind of temps are normal for the car just idling for a while? I've never paid attention to that. I haven't driven my car in 2 weeks so I thought I'd let the battery charge for a bit & left it idling in the driveway around 5pm today. It was 65 degrees outside & coolant climbed up to 203.
What kind of temps are normal for the car just idling for a while? I've never paid attention to that. I haven't driven my car in 2 weeks so I thought I'd let the battery charge for a bit & left it idling in the driveway around 5pm today. It was 65 degrees outside & coolant climbed up to 203.
190-220 is normal as described above. the outside ambient temp has less to do with it than one might think.
Tested it in water on the stove. Didn’t start to open til 208-210, right as water started to boil. Not sure how accurate my cooking thermometer is, but this sure matches my water temps on the street.
01-03-2019, 08:51 AM
