Who says our blowers don't whine?
#61
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The taller lid doesn't provide any difference in performance. The rear two cylinders on the LT engines run higher combustion temperatures than the other 6 so GM added more charge air cooling for those two cylinders by tilting the intercooler bricks inside the S/C. Tilting the bricks required raising the S/C lid. If you don't change the bricks there is no reason to change the lid other than looks. Tadge had talked about GM coming up with some sort of an update for 15 and 16 models but I suspect that intent ran into some technical and price challenges. There doesn't seem to be a way of swapping the intercooler bricks and the lid. The complete S/C has to be changed which then prices the GM version out the price range most Customers will pay.
Bill
Bill
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Mikec7z (03-08-2019)
#62
we ordered a blower from them. Bought it off ebay. Came from texas. Never arrived. Supposedly lost in shipping. Then they said they had another with less than 500 miles on it. We backed out of the deal all together and got a refund. spooked us. Had no idea who we were dealing with. Realized we were talking to one of the callaway girls (wife or daughter?)
Then we got new cars awarded for our car troubles anyway, so it all became a moot point to get the updated blower.
Then we got new cars awarded for our car troubles anyway, so it all became a moot point to get the updated blower.
#63
There are a couple of cylinders that run lean with the old one. I'm also getting an occasional misfire that we can't find a cause for. I'm going to give this a shot and see how it does. I don't have a track day scheduled until April 10 so I really won't know if this helps until then. If it causes any problems I'll post them on the forum. I'm just doing a straight swap so hopefully no issues.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 03-08-2019 at 07:37 PM.
#64
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By then the warranty will be gone anyway and if it needs a tune I'll get a tune. I love the car and it doesn't make a lot of sense to take the hit I'd take if I trade or sell it. I'll get a mid-engine when they come out with a z06 or equivalent and probably just keep both.
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Mikec7z (03-09-2019)
#65
Burning Brakes
By then the warranty will be gone anyway and if it needs a tune I'll get a tune. I love the car and it doesn't make a lot of sense to take the hit I'd take if I trade or sell it. I'll get a mid-engine when they come out with a z06 or equivalent and probably just keep both.
I would start there instead of going straight to a blower swap...
#66
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Have you ever tried changing spark plugs and gapping them a little closer? How about making a pass then pulling one of the rear plugs and reading it? What about your coil packs, have you ever tested them to see if one may be going out?
I would start there instead of going straight to a blower swap...
I would start there instead of going straight to a blower swap...
#67
if you plan to tune anyway, i would get the 2300, no?
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badhabit_wb (03-09-2019)
#70
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I'm hoping that this solves my issue and then I'll sell the 2015 blower. I'm guessing all in I'll have 500.00 spent tops. Plus with the factory tune I should be safe engine wise. I don't need any more power until I'm driving as fast as anyone else there on a z06. At this point I just want a stable platform to work on the driver mod.
#71
I thought a 2300 could be had for under 4 grand. And the 2300 actually brings engine temps down, due to a better flow path and bigger interior intercooler bricks, and not spinning so many rpm, so less heat generated. Fuel system can be left stock as well.
The extra top end power is actually just a "bonus" in my book, but not the reason for me suggesting the 2300. It was actually due to the lower temps.
just because that 3z06 guy always preached about them, did not mean he was wrong. My problem with him was he would tell me all of my threads were not correct, and tried to turn every thread into a 2300 and LT header advertisement. But never did i tell him his stats on the 2300 and providing lower temps, were wrong. He is right. But LT headers bring about much more heat, norcal catless pipes are what i recommend, and that used to bother him a bit apparently.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 03-09-2019 at 11:29 AM.
#72
Drifting
I got my 2300 for less than $5000. I did a whole bunch of other things at the same time, H/C, custom intake, etc. Already had the fueling mods done along with a bigger HX, but that was for the OEM route. The 2300 when done with a few extra things can get you in excess of 850HP. I will have my final numbers early next week. Made 22# of boost on its first pulls but had some belt slip issues with the smaller upper pulley so upsizing it on Monday. With the gutted cats/long tubes I assure you that you wont hear the SC whine over the exhaust at WOT.
The custom 5" intake picked up some nice gains over the AFE and Halltech. We ported the snout to take advantage of the 103mm TB.
The custom 5" intake picked up some nice gains over the AFE and Halltech. We ported the snout to take advantage of the 103mm TB.
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Mikec7z (03-09-2019)
#73
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I did the swap and topped it out in 5th without throwing any codes. That just means it's fine on the street. The test will be at VIR on April 10th. If the weather is warm and it all works well I will be satisfied. I'm not trying for more power just reliability. I have my original supercharger taped up and boxed so that if I decide to sell it I can. Not sure yet what I'm going to do but until I get a few track days under my belt I'm keeping it.
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Mikec7z (03-09-2019)
#74
glad to hear no codes or limp modes. It will be an improvement over your last blower, that is for sure. Should solve your misfire in the rear cylinders.
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Mikec7z (03-09-2019)
#76
more than the vac power, is the tilt of the car. You can vac the thing until the system cracks somewhere... but it wont get the air out...
Car has to be on a VERY steep nose upward tilt. Find a loading dock ramp and then still jack the front nose up with a floor jack fully lifted from the middle of the car. Get some blocks behind the back tires. Air comes right out like magic then.
Car has to be on a VERY steep nose upward tilt. Find a loading dock ramp and then still jack the front nose up with a floor jack fully lifted from the middle of the car. Get some blocks behind the back tires. Air comes right out like magic then.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 03-09-2019 at 08:10 PM.
#77
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I actually jack the front up and then take out the fender liner and remove the bolts holding it in. Then I can turn is so most of the air comes out. Last time I did it with the front clip off and it got almost all of the air out. Swapping the supercharger got the air back in. It's a pain but I'll get it out again.
#78
its not the res that has the most air in it though... its the blower cooling bricks.
Trust me on this
Trust me on this
#79
or you can also do it the way you are doing it, once a week or so, hopefully the air makes its way down to the res tank as the car is being driven and the fluid becomes hot, and then you can keep doing your method. Will take many purges however your way, is my belief.
Last edited by Mikec7z; 03-09-2019 at 08:42 PM.
#80
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My vacuum pump broke before I finished pumping the bricks. The tank had one tiny bubble in it. All of that air came from the bricks in the new supercharger. I ordered another vacuum pump so hopefully I can get it all sorted out next week. It will probably take more than once to get it back to where I had it with the old supercharger but I think the swap will be worth it. At this point I'm waiting on the tools. The mityvac self destructed. It was new but I won't every buy another one. Hopefully the Lisle will work better.
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Mikec7z (03-09-2019)