Mikec7z

all i know is, the work is cut 1/10th as soon as the car is on steep enough tilt. And the perk is, less fluid has to be pulled out to get the air to come out, so less chance of air coming back in, and it is also a much quicker process.

Might sound like fiction, but at a steep enough tilt, you can literally blow and suck on the clear plastic tube that fits over the filler port, and get the flow of the fluid going back and forth in the system, and the air can come out just from doing it that way. All you are doing is dislodging the air from high cavities in the system... back and forth flow accomplishes that more than vac alone does ironically.

The aggravation ends as soon as the car is on a steep steep incline.

SGT_G

If anyone is still interested in the nx lid, here's a video of mine running through the gears to just under 140.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJv0...ature=youtu.be

badhabit_wb

I'm going to order the factory bleed tools tomorrow and try it that way. I didn't get all I wanted out today so I pulled the fender liner, etc, and took the top hose off the tank and got it bled completely. I had a hard time getting the top line back on and drained the intercooler. All said and done I wound up right back where I was with air in the tank.It would be nice to have a bleed valve in the top of the tank.

Mikec7z

if you dont believe me, maybe BillDeerborn can chime in here, because the factory bleed tool, at the dealership, did not work on his car, until the GM engineers taught the tech that the front of the car has to be lifted to a very steep angle.

Bill is the one who taught me this, and he was correct. There are photos of his car, in a chevy service bay, half on a lift, with the nose lifted, and the back of the car on the ground. Looks sketchy as hell, but whatever. its reality and it works.

Mikec7z

One of my "to do's" is create a high point catch point, for air, that can collect it, and then be bled off easily.

I plan to just run a vertical hose upward, from up by the pump, up to the hood seam area, and im HOPING as fluid makes its rounds, any stray air bubbles that happen to go upward through that T or Y that will be installed, will then get trapped in the vertical hose which is a dead end with a bleeder on the end, and can be bled off easily, while the fill port can then be topped off.

badhabit_wb

I believe you! Honest!

QUAKEJAKE

Does that sound come from a stock vehicle?

Toddiesel

Yeah man. I posted a video in motion as well. It makes it whine that much

badhabit_wb

I used the Gspeed dry brake and pump override tool and that helped a lot. I'm wondering how much more I'll get out of the approved tools. It will be an easy test because I can use the Gspeed stuff and then use the GM tools afterwards and see if I get any more air out.

Mikec7z

like i said, its all in the tilt... i think i can get the air out just sucking on the tube with just my mouth and lungs, once the car is at a steep enough tilt... the tools are not the issue. I used to have videos up that proved this, but its just not a good video to keep up on the internet, know what I mean?

badhabit_wb

What I've been doing is jacking the front of the car up, taking off the wheelhouse liner, removing the brake vent, taking the 3 bolts out holding the tank, and then raising the end of the tank to let the bubbles out. The bubbles will float up out of the tube but still need a vacuum to get completely out of the system. The pump is pushing the fluid in the wrong direction to evacuate the tank. It's pushing fluid into the top and out of the bottom. Switching the direction of flow would help a lot with this. It's a pain to get out all of the air simply because of the design.

Mikec7z

when i release the passenger side blower coolant auxilary HX, i will fix the mess. I came up with a simple way to solve it. Expansion tanks are not the answer unless a person needs a place to put ice at the drag strip.