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Should I consider a 2016 without warranty?

Old 01-16-2019, 10:15 AM
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toddhale010
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Default Should I consider a 2016 without warranty?

In my search for a new or nearly new C7 I have stumbled upon a very nice 2016 Z06 A8 coupe that is equipped almost identically to the new car we have been looking for. I've listed all the details below, please express your thoughts and opinions.

My biggest concern is not having a warranty on the car given the A8 and wheel cracking issues that are all over the forum.
Minor details are no ground effects but I can easily add those, and has black calipers where we prefer red but not a deal breaker.

2016 Z06 A8 with 5100 miles priced at $67,600
Torch Red with Jet Black interior
Transparent Top ($995)
Chrome Wheels ($1995)
Carbon Flash hood stinger stripe ($500)
Carbon Flash mirrors ($100)
Black Brake Calipers ($595)
NADA clean trade value is $63,150 with a clean Retail of $66,875

I can order this same car less the black brake calipers with a total MSRP of $90,770 and if I can get the 12% off that most seam to find that puts me at $79,878. That's an extra $12K for the new one but that's not much if I have to replace anything major on the used one without warranty. That being said I personally feel like the used price is too much to consider it even though it would be nice to leave that $12K in the bank for something else.
Old 01-16-2019, 10:55 AM
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6104696
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Buy the new car.

edit: that having been said, if anyone wants my M7 2016 3LZ with 13K miles for $68K.....its theirs (with 4.5 more years of GMEPP warranty). PM me 😎

Last edited by 6104696; 01-16-2019 at 12:40 PM.
Old 01-16-2019, 11:12 AM
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badhabit_wb
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if the difference is only 12,000 get the new car. If it's 24,000 then get the used one. I've had very little warranty work done on mine and it's a 15 that I track.
Old 01-16-2019, 11:38 AM
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jstewart
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If you are scared of not having a warranty no. If you bend or crack a wheel on a new one they probably will not cover it under warranty. Unless you live in the north with terrible winter damaged roads I doubt you will see rim damage. In my opinion the A8 trans issue is way overblown, just make sure the trans fluid on a 2016 or older A8 is changed to the newer spec trans fluid. If you have any intention of modifying the car or even think you might modify it buy the 2016 because of potential warranty issues and they are more readily tunable. The price quoted you for the 2016 is high in my opinion. What ever you choose to do congrats & welcome, there is a wealth of knowledge here.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:01 PM
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xWS6guy
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Wouldn't a 2016 still have drivetrain warranty for approx two more years?
Old 01-16-2019, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jstewart
If you are scared of not having a warranty no. If you bend or crack a wheel on a new one they probably will not cover it under warranty. Unless you live in the north with terrible winter damaged roads I doubt you will see rim damage. In my opinion the A8 trans issue is way overblown, just make sure the trans fluid on a 2016 or older A8 is changed to the newer spec trans fluid. If you have any intention of modifying the car or even think you might modify it buy the 2016 because of potential warranty issues and they are more readily tunable. The price quoted you for the 2016 is high in my opinion. What ever you choose to do congrats & welcome, there is a wealth of knowledge here.
I wouldn't be modifying it at any point but it will be driven regularly. I'm estimating that we will put around 10-15K miles per year on it. Here in KY our roads are pretty good but when we travel I'm certain we'll encounter much worse conditions. I agree the used price seems high and it's their asking price so I'm sure there's some room but I don't know if it would be enough to sway me. Badhabit mentioned $24K and it would probably take very close to that to get me interested. I'm finding plenty of nice used cars with warranty in the 2017-2019 year models but they are pricing them so close to new there's no reason to buy used.
Old 01-16-2019, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by xWS6guy
Wouldn't a 2016 still have drivetrain warranty for approx two more years?
From what little I know it should and the dealer is supposed to be verifying that for me. I'm just not sure what all the fine print is once it's out of the regular 36 month warranty.
Old 01-16-2019, 12:17 PM
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toddhale010
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I think it's about time to start contacting some of the big 3 or 4 dealers up north and get something going. I hate to buy that far from home but I'm tired of trying to haggle pricing with the locals.
Old 01-16-2019, 04:33 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by toddhale010
In my search for a new or nearly new C7 I have stumbled upon a very nice 2016 Z06 A8 coupe that is equipped almost identically to the new car we have been looking for. I've listed all the details below, please express your thoughts and opinions.

My biggest concern is not having a warranty on the car given the A8 and wheel cracking issues that are all over the forum.
Minor details are no ground effects but I can easily add those, and has black calipers where we prefer red but not a deal breaker.

2016 Z06 A8 with 5100 miles priced at $67,600
Torch Red with Jet Black interior
Transparent Top ($995)
Chrome Wheels ($1995)
Carbon Flash hood stinger stripe ($500)
Carbon Flash mirrors ($100)
Black Brake Calipers ($595)
NADA clean trade value is $63,150 with a clean Retail of $66,875

I can order this same car less the black brake calipers with a total MSRP of $90,770 and if I can get the 12% off that most seam to find that puts me at $79,878. That's an extra $12K for the new one but that's not much if I have to replace anything major on the used one without warranty. That being said I personally feel like the used price is too much to consider it even though it would be nice to leave that $12K in the bank for something else.
The B2B may be gone but the 5 year power train warranty should still be in effect till at least July of 2020. How long the Power Train Warranty lasts depends on the In Service Date of the car (which may not be the same as the day it was first sold). The transmission is covered under the Power Train Warranty. The wheels more than likely won't be covered on a new car unless it is proven they have a manufacturer's defect Vs suffering from impact damage. The seller should be able to provide the In Service Date or a GM dealer should be able to tell you if you give them the VIN.

GM's power train warranty is excellent and is transferable to subsequent owners unlike some of the Korean brands 10 year warranties.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 01-16-2019 at 04:35 PM.
Old 01-16-2019, 04:35 PM
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I still have over a year left of the powertrain on mine and it's a 15 that was picked up the day it came in on the truck.
Old 01-16-2019, 07:30 PM
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jstewart
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Toddhale you and I live in the same state Ky. You wouldn't be the guy I talked to at the cars & coffee several months ago in St Matthews would you? That guy was looking at new Corvettes but was very concerned about stock wheel reliability because of what he had read on this forum.
Old 01-16-2019, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by xWS6guy
Wouldn't a 2016 still have drivetrain warranty for approx two more years?

Yes.

3 yr/36,000 mi basic, 5 yr/60,000 mi powertrain

I think the 3 year ends ON the date you take delivery of the car. So if you bought the car in june 2016, the 3 year/36 expires june 2019.

But that's bumper to bumper. Powertrain is good for 2 more years or up to 60k. Whatever comes first.
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Old 01-16-2019, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jstewart
Toddhale you and I live in the same state Ky. You wouldn't be the guy I talked to at the cars & coffee several months ago in St Matthews would you? That guy was looking at new Corvettes but was very concerned about stock wheel reliability because of what he had read on this forum.
No that wasn’t me but yes I’m just a little south of Louisville. We only started Vette shopping last month after attempting to purchase a ZL1 but unfortunately my wife is a little claustrophobic and couldn’t ride in the cramped Camaro. We’ve since driven a GS and she really enjoyed it with no issues. I shouldn’t have said unfortunately because it’s actually a good thing since she can ride in a Vette
Old 01-17-2019, 12:04 PM
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Last year (2018), I bought a used 2015 C7 Z06 3LZ M7 (without Z07), and bought a 10 year Ally Premiere Protection Major Guard warranty with 0 deductible for the car. It's not GMEPP, or truly bumper to bumper, but it covers a lot. (Ally is the new name for GMAC).

Last edited by rcgldr; 01-17-2019 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 01-17-2019, 12:07 PM
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go buy a 3-4 year newer for $12k more
Old 01-17-2019, 12:18 PM
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TXshaggy
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Warranty aside, you could buy new 2016 1LZs all day in late 2016 for low 60s with red tags...so price wise this is high and personally none of the options listed is worth anything now.

Cars.com has several new cars starting at 69...dozens for low 70s.

Skip this one and buy new.
Old 01-17-2019, 01:15 PM
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More than half the 2016s built should still be in the 36 month bumper to bumper. If the inservice date was after 1/17.2016 than they still are. With that number available I would limit my looking to cars that either already have a transferable GMEPP extended warranty or that are still within the B2B so that you can purchase a GMEPP extension yourself. My 16 has an inservice date of 9/20/16 so it is in B2B for 8 more months.
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To Should I consider a 2016 without warranty?

Old 01-17-2019, 01:20 PM
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Parcival
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Originally Posted by TXshaggy
Warranty aside, you could buy new 2016 1LZs all day in late 2016 for low 60s with red tags...so price wise this is high and personally none of the options listed is worth anything now.

Cars.com has several new cars starting at 69...dozens for low 70s.

Skip this one and buy new.

There are better deals out there with similar optioning...
I also agree options are getting squat now...Look at the guy in another thread who reportedly got a '16 C7.R optioned (a $23K package not including the 3LZ part) for just a couple $K over the comparable '16 car.
Old 01-17-2019, 01:24 PM
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And that is another thought. You should be able to get a 2016 3LZ that stickered for well over $100,000 for middle to high $60s now. Why deal with a stripper when you can get all the bells and whistles. I bought my C4s, my C5Z and this C7Z new, but my best deal was buying my 08 C6Z in 2012 for $50k when it had stickered for $80k and it only had 4200 miles on it. I drove that car for 15,000 miles and 5 years for only $10k in depreciation. All my new buys had considerably more depreciation than that.

Last edited by pkincy; 01-17-2019 at 01:32 PM.
Old 01-17-2019, 05:02 PM
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mdolandese
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I'd buy new with the full warranty, or a used 18 or 19 if you don't mind wondering if it was beat to death

Last edited by mdolandese; 01-17-2019 at 05:02 PM.

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