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since I will be making a custom shroud now for the back of the cooler, I am interested in smaller, very powerful fans... that flow a ton of air. I can set them in the bottom left or bottom right and have them attached to a tube, that evacuates the air through a 3 inch or 4 inch duct/hose to the opening at the back of the cheek. They would be air tight to the cooler due to the custom shroud im going to have to build anyway most likely. I could compound these smaller fans, and have them in series. Just throwing out the idea in case someone knows of some hyper small fans, or if I should just stay with the large one
Spal Brushless are as powerful for their size as you are going to find.
makes sense. I know I said that the cars would not need any trimming, but I think it is going to be important to cut the opening toward the back of the cheek area, opening larger, by removing some of the floor plane
Since i knew the air was going to have to be moved out that small hole in the back, i was looking at leaf blower fans too Probably not going to work.
forgot to put up the photos of the plasic shroud I have which matches the cooler on 3 of the 4 sides, and the 4th side i would trim and remold, and now also remold to make sure it accepts the fan. Left (passenger) side is the side that would need trimmed and extended.
Thinking way outside the box here... and just thinking out loud... im wondering what would happen if a person put a vent along the wheel arch union to the front bumper... for instance, a quarter inch spacer, which air could flow through, but the vent would have to be after or behind, the wheel well fender spat/flare, as then vacuum would be created. A quarter inch along that whole front half of that wheel arch seam would flow/evacuate a lot of air.
Edit: nevermind, not possible, forgot how it looked in there, its too recessed, and tire would rub.
This has me contemplating on the cutout shape though, the bottom outside quadrant could be used as evacuation, especially on the back side of a dive plane.
Mike, sorry not read everything in this thread as there is soo much! Lol what are you planning on using the aux rad for with the oil cooler setup? Also do you think that 2 massive coolers might be too much? Could you maybe use one for oil and the other as a HE?...
Mike, sorry not read everything in this thread as there is soo much! Lol what are you planning on using the aux rad for with the oil cooler setup? Also do you think that 2 massive coolers might be too much? Could you maybe use one for oil and the other as a HE?...
correct, its all modular and plug and play, im setting it up so that the person who installs them can plumb that cooler into any existing cooling circuit they choose, (trans fluid, blower fluid, engine oil, etc) without cutting or bending any stock lines. Everything can be put back to stock very quickly, when my kits are removed.
As far as the coolers being too big... there is nothing gained by going smaller. All the headache of installing them is the same. The fan still fits on the back of them. They only weight 4 lbs each. Nothing is gained by going smaller, may as well let them cool as much as they can. The goal is to take big bites out of the heat, so that you dont have to spend a lot of money. Existing vendors have people jump through a lot of swap outs, we leave everything else alone and just add 1 or 2 of these, and let the person see where they are.
PS... when you dont read, it causes everyone else who did read... to have to read again, and for me to type again. So everyone works except you... so that we all have to do work... again.
Read the thread, otherwise if im asked questions that have been clearly answered, i will ignore them... for the sake of everyone else who is having to read this... again.
I currently have only welded 90 degree elbows onto the stock oil line, and ran the lines to the front to the cooler, that way.
I am exploring entering in at the braided hose section, as it would give me more room to work, as the hard line section is only about 6-8 inches long.
If anyone knows where I could find an abnormally LARGE DIAMETER hose adapter fitting, please let me know.
I will have the exact micrometer measurements tomorrow, mine is not working at the moment, and probably wont get it fixed before tomorrow. Just know, this line is larger than -12 AN hose. Inside appears to be Teflon.
For those of you curious, a cut and created hose with fittings would be part of the kit. Your stock hose would be removed from the car and put on the shelf in your garage until you needed it to put the car back to stock. Or you can sell it or throw it away... but just know, the damn things are almost 100 dollars with tax and shipping, for 1 of them.
Also, keep in mind, the braided outer shell can be unbraided and pulled back, leaving just the teflon. If there was a hose adapter for just the teflon, i believe it would work fine, as this hose is up and guarded in a location road debris does not hit it, and where the debris might hit is the hard line section, so this would be well off to the side of that location, and receive no tugging or pulling, and since it is not a high pressure system on this return hose, then joining into the teflon alone, I believe should be sufficient.
Found the hose fitting that goes onto the teflon stock line...
But I am more interested in creating monoblocks that then attach to hose of my own, and the monoblocks are to be clones of the blocks that go into the engine oil pan and the oil dry sump tank.
The problem now is finding the seal washer with the rubber in the middle. I have found one so far, but its rubber outer diameter is smaller than the GM stock rubber outer diameter. I think the smaller rubber will work, but would rather keep fishing to see if I cant find something more inline with the stock seal/washer/gasket.
The 1.18 is the OD for the GM rubber gasket/seal section.
so, i win the stupid award... i knew the hose came as an assembly with the seal ring, but I did not check with GM for the seal ring, GM sells them separate of course, so no more scavenger hunt for that ring. Wasted a couple hours of my life worrying about a damn ring i can order from the dealer.
Blue tape where the turn signal/running light reflector was, indicates where material would be cut away from the front bumper cover to make a vent. Also, between the lower part of the vent and the dive plane, that triangle area, could be an additional vent to make the overall vent larger. I realize we could mold existing turn signal lights into the vent shape, and it would sit in behind the dive plane. This would all offer support for the dive plane, and could look good if done right.
I plan to have the oil cooler kit done soon, and the we will continue to work towards the dive plane, and once the dive plane is made, for the car with a closed off, uncut, normal front end, then after that we will work on the cutout shape and duct for the front bumper. Front bumper cut out will likely have a dive plane that wraps up into the cutout itself.
Dive plane makes it easier to have the guts to cut a front fascia of one of these cars, as the dive plane will offer a reference line/shape.
White area is cutout area for exit vent, and the orange is the brace for the diveplane. Huge vacuum will exist behind the dive plane, so this vent would pull air out of the car.
Diveplane not drawn. Running light/Turn signal also not drawn. This vent would be similar to the vent on the side of the car that has the z06 badge currently. The turn signal could exist in a place in the middle just as the z06 emblem does on the fender vent behind the front wheel.
By keeping the stock tab square holes, regular side markers could be added back to this area at any time. The diveplane would not require the front of the car to be cut, but would coincide with the cutout if someone wants to make the cut, and add the rest of the pieces.
something else to understand, by us going into the indicator light area, and bringing the drawn orange struts back across to connect to the under side of the dive plane, we now can accommodate front fascias that have already had cutouts installed from any other vendor. While our kit would not require cutting below the dive plane, the struts would just sit up against the fascia in normal cases....
..but for those who already have a hole cut there, this now allows us to turn that hole into an exit vent, or to be covered and it will look acceptable as the struts will be bonded to that cover, so it will look normal. As time goes on, we will work to make our kit compatible with any existing holes in this bottom/outside corner of the other vendor's square template holes that already exist in so many vehicles.
Made a stronger bracket, It sandwiches on the left outside corner, at the headlight mount point, so it keeps the cooler from moving up or down, and also takes the stress off the small screw at that tab. I will meet with a couple shops who might make it out of carbon, and I will also look into what it takes to build it out of some simple I beams.
I'll drill the holes in the bracket tomorrow, and smooth out the edges. Done for tonight.
Getting ready to go on a long trip, so will have the cooler hung in place and go down a lot of bumpy roads and see if i can get anything to break, but i don't think that's going to happen.
So i figured I would give you guys a little update what is going on. I am currently waiting for the monoblock fittings to be machined, that will plug into the stock oil line female fports at the engine pan and the sump tank.
Once I get those monoblocks, things should start coming together pretty quickly. However, to get the price down on those, per unit made, I have to order A LOT of them (hundreds)
So, that's probably what I'm going to do. (other vendors, if you want some fittings to make your own kits, ill probably be selling them to you as well should you need some.
And so speaking of costs, and keeping them down...
While the aluminum brackets I made out of sheet metal was a fun exercise ... the problem comes when I want to mass produce them. I thought I would have someone who could stamp them out for me, but they too, want me to buy hundreds, and those will cost more than the oil fitting monoblocks will, and even once they are stamped out, I will still have to manually alter them, and they wont look "professional" enough for me to want to release them with our name on them...
So, we've been doing some more research, and we also want this kit to look nice, but we also want to be affordable, more so than any other kit out there, so I am trying to keep the costs down on every component of the kit, and it would be great to find something that is already mass produced that I could use to make the bracket with, without having to manually bend much metal around by hand...
And since I am waiting for the monoblocks to be machined, I have time to experiment some more, which brings us to this....
So i ordered some of this very high quality, pre drilled, aluminum U channel, and some other corresponding connective parts, and I am going to tinker with a much cleaner design, and if all goes according to what my imagination says I can do, then you are most likely looking at the backbone for the oil cooler bracket, moving forward.
Time will tell of course. I am also about to order in another fan than the one I currently have, and experiment with a size larger and see how it fits.
Thanks for all the encouragement along the way, I promise we are getting close, but that stock oil line has caused us some delays since I don't want to release janky looking oil lines to people and have them cutting up their stock oil line, or investing 90 bucks for an oil line for me to cut up for them... so i think the monobocks are the way to go.
I ordered this bumper a month ago not sure if the pic helps. I have a question is Carbon Fiber able to be heated and molded to fit.
Looks similar to Khoa's front at Competition Carbon, but it is different, thicker on the side intakes at the bottom.
Anyway, i dont think you need anymore body work, I think you will just need to add some coolers next. I'm trying to hurry, we are almost there. Want to make sure what is released is the best way to do it, with no regrets later.
Let me know how that bumper works out, it looks very long and low in the front, as the car is still at, what looks to be, stock ride height in the photos.
03-03-2019, 08:28 PM
Probably not going to work.
... the problem comes when I want to mass produce them. I thought I would have someone who could stamp them out for me, but they too, want me to buy hundreds, and those will cost more than the oil fitting monoblocks will, and even once they are stamped out, I will still have to manually alter them, and they wont look "professional" enough for me to want to release them with our name on them...
