DomLS3

For everyone with carbon ceramic brakes, what seems to be the go-to for pad replacement? I've seen a lot of regular brake suggestions, but not much on CCBs. Powerstop and Carbotech seem to be the only names I see mentioned. Does anyone have a part number or anything for what they recommend?

Thanks

fleming23

The OEM ACDelco pad fits 97% of the needs of the car, from street to track. The only 3% isn't doesn't work well for are really fast drivers on track. Stick with OEM, there are really no better options for the CCBs. Pagid or Endless work if you want to get a slightly better track pad.

Bill Dearborn

Stock or if you want a higher performance track pad go to Pagid Racing. No others. I can't say for sure whether or not pads made for iron rotors will hurt a ceramic rotor but I do know that Pagid Racing builds pads specifically engineered to work with CCM rotors and since Pagid Racing pads may be fitted as an upgrade to many standard calipers for high performance vehicles. they work closely with prestige marques, to develop original equipment friction for some of the most prestigious and powerful production cars in the world. http://www.pagidracing.com/en/produc...amily-rsc.html

Here is the Pagid front pad info:




Here is the Pagid info for the rear brakes:



As whether or not Pagid provides the stock pads here are some links to some posts in a several year old forum thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592589890 (fleming23's post)

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592590815 (BEZ06's post)

Here is a link to a post in a Viper Forum: https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post251530

So it looks like the stock front pads are Textar 4300 Compound and the rear pads are Pagid S600 Compound.

Then you see that both Pagid and Textar are wholly owned by TMD Friction so basically they are the single CCM pad supplier to GM, Dodge, Ferrari, Lambo, Porsche, etc.

Bill

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Are you tracking the car?

mcoomer

Rears are definitely made by Pagid. Saw that today and was a bit surprised. If you’re not tracking,or not a lot, I’d stick with oe.

tracer3030

Anyone run the G-LOC brake pads?

Bill Dearborn

Looked at their web page. They like Carbotech are a local company to me. I don't see any place where they make a pad compound specific to work with CCM rotors. If you have the CCM brake package I wouldn't run them unless you had some assurance the pads won't reduce rotor life. With rotors running about $1800 each you need to be sure you don't mess them up. Don't have to worry about that with iron rotors but there is a reason why Pagid makes special pads for CCM brakes and why GM, Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini and others have chosen those pads.

Bill

DomLS3

I am not tracking the car, so sounds like OEM is best route. Should I get them straight from GM or is there any other better place to get them?

DavidC83

I'm curious as to why they need replaced and how many miles you're at. Typically the CCBs will last for a long *** time if not tracked.

DomLS3

The rotors will last probably 100k miles. The pads won't.

mcoomer

What are you at for mileage? Just curious because I have the OE CCBs and wonder what you're seeing for wear on the pads and rotors. Do I need to start saving my pennies for parts?

Thanks,
Mike

DavidC83

Yes I know, I was just curious as to what kind of mileage the pads get with normal street use.

DomLS3

I'm at 22,000 miles. The rotors are fine but I'm starting to hear squeaking noises when I'm stopping.

fleming23

That is not necessarily indicative of pads needing replaced. CCB pads do not have squealers like traditional brake pads, and are known to make much more noise when cold. Your car will have wear sensors that should trigger a warning on the dash when the pads get low.

DomLS3

Well what else would cause brake squeal other than the pads? It's been fine for the last 21,000+ miles until recently.

thebishman

Go and make a couple of consecutive high speed ‘stops’; actually do not come to a complete stop, just let off the brakes around 5 mph and do not engage the ABS system. And make sure the calipers and rotors are free of ‘dust’.

jvp

Right as you roll to a stop or are moving really slowly? If so, it's the anti-vibration material on the backs of the pads. It's likely burned off, and you're hearing the pads vibrate in the calipers. The reason you can't hear it at faster speeds is the frequency is too high for your ears. But as you slow to near stopped, the frequency drops low enough such that your ears can pick it up.

If this is the case, the fix is simple: pad grease. A teeny(!) bit applied to the backs of the pads and you should be good to go. Just bear in mind that as you drive, the brakes get wet from rain and washes, etc, that grease will get washed away. You'll start hearing the squealing again and need to re-apply more grease.

Bill Dearborn

Brake squeal doesn't necessarily mean the pads are worn out. Especially, when the pads don't have mechanical wear sensors that make a scraping/squealing noise when touching the rotor. Those kinds of sensors would ruin your rotors.

Your pads have electrical wear sensors that are located on the top edge of the inside pads in each caliper. When the pad wears down to a certain point the sensor starts to wear and at a certain point the wire inside the sensor breaks and that turns on the brake warning. If you haven't seen that warning your pads more than likely are fine. However, it doesn't hurt to check them the next time you take the wheels off. Pads can always wear unevenly due to some unforeseen circumstance. The ones on my car wore fairly evenly under hard track usage.

It would be a good idea to check them before spending ~$500 for a set of front pads and ~$600 for a set of rear pads.

Price wise always check Amazon.

Bill

Basil2000

Bill,
do you know at what thickness the sensor goes off? I track my car a bit and have a few weekends planned this summer and was wondering at what point (pad thickness) i should change my pads? The fronts look like they may be getting down a bit.

thanks,
ken

thebishman

I always use the 1/3rd thickness rule: when the pad gets that low, replace it on a CCM system or you’ll increase markedly the risk of thermal damage to the rotor; (the really expensive component). I’m talking about for track purposes of course.