gymdoc

Didn't drive the car for a month and battery went dead. tested it and it showed 9 volts.. tried recharging with trickle charger.. it couldn't handle it.. took the leads off and tried again.. no go. So went and bought a 15 amp smart charger and after a couple of minutes it would show a failure message every time.

Then jumped the car and went for a 10 minute drive and when shut down, tried restarting and still wont turn the engine over.

Anybody else with a total batter failure on a 2 yr old battery?

Thinking its still under factory warranty?

Detroit_Bill

What errors are you getting? Are your battery terminals clean? Don’t you have a battery tender in it?

if you let a battery go dead it can freeze. Don’t know where you are so I am not sure that’s in play.

A 10 minute drive will not charge a dead battery.

capevettes

Every Corvette since the C5 needs to be kept on a battery tender if they are going to sit for prolonged periods of time. There are many systems that are kept alive while they sit. Once a battery is completely dead it really never recovers. I would put a new battery in the car and keep it on a battery tender when it's going to sit.

Doctor Mark

Some batteries can develop an internal problem e.g. dead cell. These will not recover and must be replaced. Any battery can have this issue which is often not age related. The battery cost should be prorated or fully covered. Just replace and move on.

Steve Garrett

You had 17 dead batteries, OP??????


Punctuation is your friend....I've fixed your title to accurately portray what you're trying to say.....

ronsc1985

Any lead acid battery can fail completely at any time and be unrecoverable it it has been completely drained. I had one fail in 6 months on a new MB E550 coupe. It was the battery not anything else like excessive current draw when off.

I have a 2017 and it has many times sat outside for more then a month in sub 35F cold weather and started right up.

After you replace the battery you might want to hook an ammeter in series with the positive battery terminal and the positive battery connection hardware to measure the current draw when the car is off. It should be in the low millliamp range ,something like 20-50ma. Sometimes a bridge rectifier diode in the alternator leaks and drains the battery in a week or less. Once you completely drain the battery it's recovery, by either alternator or external source charging, becomes iffy.

Gary '09 C6

Mr. Gizmo

what is the manufacturer date on your cAr. Then check the date on the battery. It is probably 6 months before the mfg date of car. Battery could be 3 and a half years old. And if you aren’t regularly keeping the tender on it they go bad. I wouldn’t mess around with the battery as a weak battery causes an entire set of mystery issues with these cars and over taxes the alternator. Spring for a new battery or get the car to the dealer and have them replace if under warranty.

gymdoc

Thank you all for the responses. I think I'll just have the local dealer swap it with a new one under warranty, and will start using the tender more often..

khoeysr

Ken Chevy

I have the same problem today - I just bought an AC Delco 48S battery from Auto Zone the yesterday for my 2016 Z51 Stingray, I kept the new battery inside the house to keep it warm (it's about 25F-30F in the garage right now) and I took out the old battery today and put in the new one. I followed on of the videos on You Tube on replacing C7 batteries (although it took longer than the 20min suggested - there's some acrobatics involved in getting the battery into its spot). I checked all the connections including the little grounding wire attached to the Neg wire. There was a little spark at the negative terminal when I made the last connection. And the radio turned on and there were several clicking sounds which I understand you are going to hear while the car resets itself and I heard something like humming from the back end of the car. There were several codes or warning messages that popped up and the side marker lights stayed on. I clicked "unlock" on the fob a couple of times. Among the warning messages there was a check engine light, a security warning, and something about the back axle. I tried to start the car, hoping this would clear everything and it did not. I turned the car off and now I have it on the Corvette battery tender. I have a 900 peak amp Duracell charger plugged into the wall which I'm going to try once it is fully charged up. The original battery was slow in starting the car, and I think it was the original one from the factory - it's was an AC Delco 48PS - I'm not the first owner of the car, but it's been kept in immaculate shape.

Any suggestions?

Ken

Rookieracer

As an alternative,

When the battery finally died in my 2016 Z06, I purchased a lithium replacement from Mamo Motorsports.

The first thing that immediately got my attention is how fast the engine spins before start up. It spins over so fast it’s like it doesn’t have any spark plugs installed.

The second and I feel the best part is the battery is actually two batteries in one. If for some reason you experience a dead battery, the lithium battery has a fob that will bring the second battery online and allow you to start the car. This was a game changer given all the dead battery issues I had with my C5s. It was a pain having to disconnect the battery or remember to put them on the tender when I wasn’t doing them for any length of time.

The third cool thing is the weight savings. (actually the weight savings is why I looked into lithium in the first place) 😋

Of course the price of lithium is not for the faint of heart. But after experiencing the battery for the better part of a year, I would do it again in a heart beat.