Prop Job

I've had some requests for this info so figured I'd post up a thread about it. This info is in several other threads as well but I will consolidate all the info here as it took me hours of scrolling through multiple threads to get an understanding of how to do this properly. That overpriced ZR1 tool is unnecessary. This will cost you about $50 in parts, assuming you have access to a steep hill/driveway and about 1.5 - 2 hrs of your time.

Look at the reservoir directly below your passenger side hood hinge. You want as little air as possible in this tank, ideally two bubbles the size of half dollars or less.

To get the air out you'll need the following parts:



18" section of:
https://m.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-1-1-4...ing/1000180575

https://m.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALV...amp/1000340347

The process:

Start by finding a steep hill/driveway or put the front wheels on the tracks of a 4 post lift and raise it to get the rear bumper all the way to the ground.

Once you have the front inclined you're ready to start bleeding. Install the vacuum setup as pictured below on the intercooler fill port. The cap has a retainer clip that is easily removed with a 90 degree or u shaped pick. Then the cap just pulls out.

Pull as much vacuum as you can with the pump, 25"+. Initially you will probably only get to 15" or so before you are getting close to sucking fluid up in the pump but as you bleed out more and more air you will be able to pull more vacuum. Forcefully squeeze and release the two lines coming out of the supercharger one at a time, multiple times, until you get all the air out. You will have to do multiple cycles of vacuum, line squeeze, release vacuum, add distilled water, repeat, until you've gotten all the air out.

Ideally you will end your final cycle with about 1/2" of fluid in the tube coming out of the fill port so when you disconnect it will spill very little and not risk taking in any air.

Replace the fill port cap and retainer clip. You may have to do this process one or two more times after driving for a bit so keep an eye on your reservoir over the next few drives to see if it needs it again.

I built the intercooler pump jumper wire to cycle the pump during this process but after doing this a couple times I don't think cycling the pump is necessary.

To get the most air out you need an incline of 15 degrees or better.

Updates in posts 7, 17, and 22.

Scoobydoobydoo

Thanks bud, nice write up

BKorsaire

There are several methods, without, as you said, selling an arm or a loin ! Another method, you just need a transparent tube and a funnel.

Thank you for publishing

ronsc1985

Good write up.

I would point out that if you have a better jack like an Arcan Low Profile jack you can almost get the rear bumper on the floor as the Arcan lifts to 24+ inches vs the Harbor Freight at 19+.. The bad news is that the Arcan is currently going for 275 or so on Amazon. When I bought mine three years ago the price was a bit under 200 shipped.

Prop Job

I would be extremely surprised if this system can be bled without being under vacuum. Unless you are talking just adding fluid to an already bled system. The top of the reservoir is several inches higher than the highest hose attached to that reservoir. So gravity bleeding will do nothing for you there.

I wouldn’t recommend using a jack to get the front as high as it needs to be.

atljar

Another suggestion.... Put a thinner piece of pcv within the hose. This will prevent the hose from collapsing on itself and allow more room for the coolnt to pull upwards before it starts getting into your hand pump

Prop Job

I haven't bled with this setup yet but I recently bought this tube to prevent the hose collapsing and give me more to work with before I'm getting close to sucking fluid with the pump. Now I just have a 2" section of the vinyl tube with hose clamps on each end to attach this tube to the fill port. I didn't include it in the write up above because I was trying to keep it as simple and cheap as possible.

badhabit_wb

I use an ac jack which will jack it up 29" which makes it easier.. If I drive the car up on a couple of boards I can start out in the center without stacking the jack on boards.. I got more air out with the zr1 bleeder but you got enough out that you shouldn't ever have a problem. I got frustrated when my mighty vac broke the 4th or 5th time I used it so I purchased the zr1 bleeder. I didn't realize until I got it that I also needed an electric vacuum pump. Thankfully I had one of those.

Prop Job

I saw those several reviews about the pump breaking prematurely but it seemed like they were in the minority. I figured for $20 I'll give it a shot and if it takes a crap on me I'll go get the electric pump loan-a-tool from Autozone. I've only bled it twice and so far, so good. I'm in the middle of the 2300 swap right now so I'll have another bleed due here soon.

eddie-d

Thanks for sharing!
I found this incredibly helpful and timely as I'm preparing for a track day and AutoX in the coming weeks.

Warp Factor

Darb, what's the approximate angle of the car while you were bleeding? If I can, I'd rather find a steep hill to do this on, so I wouldn't need to do all the jacking, and would also have better access to the engine compartment.

badhabit_wb

It worked fine for a while and then the pin that pulls the plunger back flew out and I couldn't find it. I got a better pump and ordered the zr1 stuff at the same time. I didn't realize that I needed an electric pump as well but we do hvac work so I had one of them. I also got more air out by taking the bolts out of the tank and tilting it and shaking it with the pump running. There are no air bubbles visible from under the hood on my tank but there are a couple at the back of the tank that are visible with the fender liner removed.
Jacking the front up as high as possible is a big help. I don't think it's possible to get that much air out without doing that.

Prop Job

I'm out of town until the 13th. I'll be finishing up the 2300 install when I return home. I'll measure the angle on it when I do that bleed and edit the first post to include it.

I'll prob do the same as you, badhabit, and unbolt the tank to get every bit of air out while I've got the front off.

badhabit_wb

[QUOTE=darbadocious;1599191674]I'm out of town until the 13th. I'll be finishing up the 2300 install when I return home. I'll measure the angle on it when I do that bleed and edit the first post to include it.

I'll prob do the same as you, badhabit, and unbolt the tank to get every bit of air out while I've got the front off.[/QUOTE
. I think it will save you a lot of trouble down the road.

8850

Here's my set up. Much the same as yours except I did not have to remove the 1" tube to the fill port on the engine. Once assembled, fill the cup with coolant. Draw the 25" of mercury (Hg) with the cup upright. With the 25" drawn close the valve to the pump, turn the cup upside down so it draws coolant as you open the vent valve slowly. Coolant will flow into the tube and into the system. When the cup is empty just unscrew it and refill. Start again with 25" of vacuum. With the system previously gravity filled it will take about 2-3 cups to fill depending on how full you got it with gravity.



I did not raise my front end nearly as high and filled the tank about the same level. Maybe lucky! lol With my system it does take two people to hold the set-up to keep the lines from kinking.

The two valves were $8.66 delivered. They held tight as a drum! Rest of the parts you have outlined except for maybe hose clamps. I used the hose that came with the kit and found them to collapse with vacuum but still worked. Stiffer hose would be better. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OCSParts-MT...72.m2749.l2649

us3rname

Gonna give this method a try hopefully this weekend if the stuff comes in. Just put in a larger HX and I know it's no where near full or air free. Thank you for posting this up!

Prop Job

Update:

I did the bleed for the 2300 install today and have a few additions.

1. If filling a dry system and bleeding, the pump jumper switch is useful but I don't think it's really necessary for bleeding an already filled system.

2. The angle of the incline was about 14 degrees.

3. I cheated on this bleed and unbolted the reservoir since I had the bumper off for the heat exchanger and secondary radiator installs. With this incline and a few more degrees on the tank I was able to get almost every bit of air out of the system.

4. The polycarbonate tube worked great.

Let me know if you guys have any other questions.

Alex

badhabit_wb

If you still have the front end off set the car down and let the engine idle for a few minutes. Then check the air again. I had to bleed it more than once to the point you have it because of air trapped in the intercooler bricks. It's virtually impossible to get it all out on the first try. I think Bill said the bubbles had to be smaller than a quarter and I ended up with less than that.

Mikec7z

he can also start the car while the nose is up in the air, and circulate the pump that way. Getting in the car to start it is a bit sketchy, but it makes for a fun adventure.

Cant tell if they are or not, but make sure you put blocks in front of and behind your back tires

BKorsaire

yes, as you told us Mike, and thank you again, just a piece of transparent hose and start the pump, simply