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Have any of you guys owned both C7Z and ZL1 1LE and track both?
How do they compare, I know the cooling on the ZL1 is better. But thats about the only thing I can think of that's better.
C7Z has the weight and grip advantage with the wider setup. I know the C7Z didnt come with a track oriented spoiler, but I'm curious how they compare after multiple laps, not just 1 hero lap.
My instructor at Roebling Rd a couple weeks ago had one. He was surprised to see my 19Z run cooler than his ZL1 1LE. I consistently run a max of 220 water/260 oil. I use 90/10 coolant and 15w/50 oil, that may contribute. He said his oil temps were in the low 280s. He was pushing a little harder than me, but not much.
I rode in the ZL1 for a session. It was like riding in a cave. He drove like a surgeon though, put the car on every rumble strip and curb flawlessly.
If you get the 1LE with the 10 speed auto, with a proper driver, you'll have your hands full in the Z, whether you're driving the manual or an auto Z.
The Z should still have the advantage but GM made the ZL1 1LE pretty damn good, that if a driver knows what he's doing and he has the 10 speed auto, you might be like whoa. Didn't expect that.
Fast tank is perfect 👍
He was fast too. Roebling turn 5 is a tricky off camber left hander. He would drive all the way to the outside curb, rotate the car, and rocket out. We tried over and over Sunday to get me to nail it, but I couldn’t dig out like he did in the ZL1. He did have 315/345 A7s on it so that helped, but it was still some great driving.
The 1le can match a Z06. Its up to the driver at the track. Don't think it's just another Camaro. It's got a real track suspension. Not the half track half comfort the corvettes have and a real wing. A z07 package will take it.
The comment about it running hotter than a Z06? Stock for stock? No freaking way. It runs way cooler. It has more heat exchangers and MUCH better flow through the ones they share with the same engine.
Running 4 seconds faster a lap than my friends 2019 A8, the c7s coolant overheated in under 10 minutes (these have a 50 mm radiator). The Zl1 ended the 20 minute session under 220 peak coolant temp. This is a 1:30 lap. So significant speed difference.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 04-24-2019 at 10:16 PM.
his vette runs cooler because he has the 19 m7 i beleive. The 19 radiator is much larger. Your friend has an A8, so he has lost a radiator
Also, a lot of people with hot vettes did not know to get the air out of the coolant, so he's got 2 advantages most z06 don't have.
Another user on this forum played with adding an oil cooler to his 19z, and he tied in at the lt4 cooling brick location with the thermostatic fitting from Improved Racing...
and a front mount air to oil HX like LG uses.
Much to the users surprise, his oil temps still stayed up high in the 260 270 range, but his coolant fell way down, to 220 or maybe even below while on the road course.
Unfortunately, tying in at that oil cooler brick location takes the burden off the radiator fluid to cool the oil, at that stock heat exchanger brick's location.
but it goes to show you how cool that radiator can bring the temps down on the 19z's.
we have realized that the best place to tie into the oil circuit is on the return line back to the dry sump tank, that way the radiator fluid is still put to work cooling the oil at the stock HX brick under the motor.
Ive got a ton of these fittings showing up tomorrow, if anyone has an air to oil HX already on their car, and they want to see the difference when they tie in at the return line instead of cooler brick location, let me know. I am interested in letting people use these who can give honest/accurate apples to apples data between the cooler brick location and the dry sump oil line tie in location instead for their oil coolers...
Apparently I'm the only one on planet earth with the fittings available, pictured on the right side.
his vette runs cooler because he has the 19 m7 i beleive. The 19 radiator is much larger. Your friend has an A8, so he has lost a radiator
Also, a lot of people with hot vettes did not know to get the air out of the coolant, so he's got 2 advantages most z06 don't have.
Another user on this forum played with adding an oil cooler to his 19z, and he tied in at the lt4 cooling brick location with the thermostatic fitting from Improved Racing...
and a front mount air to oil HX like LG uses.
Much to the users surprise, his oil temps still stayed up high in the 260 270 range, but his coolant fell way down, to 200 or maybe even below.
Unfortunately, tying in at that oil cooler brick location takes the burden off the radiator fluid to cool the oil, at that stock heat exchanger location.
but it goes to show you how cool that radiator can bring the temps down on the 19z's.
we have realized that the best place to tie into the oil circuit is on the return line back to the dry sump tank, that way the radiator fluid is still put to work cooling the oil at the stock HX brick under the motor.
Ive got a ton of these fittings showing up tomorrow, if anyone has an air to oil HX already on their car, and they want to see the difference when they tie in at the return line instead of cooler brick location, let me know. I am interested in letting people use these who can give honest/accurate apples to apples data between the cooler brick location and the dry sump oil line tie in location instead for their oil coolers...
Apparently I'm the only one on planet earth with the fittings available, pictured on the right side.
Neat. I don't think the aux radiator would keep his car from overheating. I am buying a z soon. It's getting twin cheek intercoolers, 2019 radiator and an air to oil hex at the aux cooler location instead of the aux cooler. Something in the 60k btu range (twice the size of the LG oil cooler).
once the oil temps are brought way down, everything else cools down.
The problem is, the people tying their air to oil coolers into the brick location, are experiencing a "wash" so to speak on oil temps, since the radiator fluid is no longer cooling the oil. Radiator fluid drops but not the oil temp... and the oil is the temp that puts the car in limp mode... not the radiator fluid. Obviously its also the oil temp that damages engines.
I hope i can beat you in the time race to show what happens when one single air to oil HX is mounted in the cheek, with a fan behind it, and tied into the dry sump return line.
We have kept it to ourselves because we are not vendors yet, nor do we want every vendor realizing we are onto something and copying us... so our testing has been kept secret for now.
But lets just say, we may or may not be a vendor here in a week or so
Drivers side could be used to cool the blower fluid... but I cant argue with the zr1 blower fluid path being effective....
except, how do you plan to run the crazy 8 system on a lt4 blower? or do/will you have a different aftermarket blower that can utilize the crazy 8 path?
For an lt4, the center HX plus drivers cheek HX added is all that can be used really, the fluid is fully cooled by the time it leaves the 2nd HX.
once the oil temps are brought way down, everything else cools down.
The problem is, the people tying their air to oil coolers into the brick location, are experiencing a "wash" so to speak on oil temps, since the radiator fluid is no longer cooling the oil. Radiator fluid drops but not the oil temp... and the oil is the temp that puts the car in limp mode... not the radiator fluid. Obviously its also the oil temp that damages engines.
I hope i can beat you in the time race to show what happens when one single air to oil HX is mounted in the cheek, with a fan behind it, and tied into the dry sump return line.
We have kept it to ourselves because we are not vendors yet, nor do we want every vendor realizing we are onto something and copying us... so our testing has been kept secret for now.
But lets just say, we may or may not be a vendor here in a week or so
Drivers side could be used to cool the blower fluid... but I cant argue with the zr1 blower fluid path being effective....
except, how do you plan to run the crazy 8 system on a lt4 blower? or do/will you have a different aftermarket blower that can utilize the crazy 8 path?
For an lt4, the center HX plus drivers cheek HX added is all that can be used really, the fluid is fully cooled by the time it leaves the 2nd HX.
Don't need the center hex when you have 2 on the sides. And no, The car goes into limp mode due to coolant temps not oil. The oil doesn't even read past 302°F with a Max of 320. I've hit limp mode several times on my car. 263 °F coolant is what does it. Oil was at 270. That's because I blocked the radiator with the oil cooler.
Don't put an oil cooler in the passenger side unless shrouding is perfect. You don't want that hot air into your intake..
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 04-24-2019 at 11:15 PM.
i see, i agree, they both throw it, but usually for most cars its the oil that throws it first i thought.
i cant believe your car stayed out of limp mode at 302 degrees oil, thats nuts.
So sorry if im still misunderstanding... you are going to remove your center HX for the blower, and instead run through 2 cheek coolers? This will clear up the radiator flow path you are hoping?
Mikec7z, I really like your solution. Since my experience with the Camaros, I came to respect the OEM cooler, and adding an additional cooler by the sump tank would be excellent, when cooling help is needed.
Re: coolant temps: The engine progressively loses more power along with coolant temps (pulls timing), and high coolant temps are usually just as catastrophic as oil temps, so I'd not undermine its importance : )
On hindsight, I'm really happy to have bought a '19 Z06. During damp/cold days I could try so far, the temps were on par with my friend's '17 GS. I'll try again on Sunday, hopefully in dry conditions, and see how it fares, but the ultimate test will be when it hits 95+ degrees in August.
I agree coolant temps matter as well. COT is a calculated value off all of these temps and WOT duration times it seems. So you are correct, the car runs richer as it gets warmer, and then it takes steps to avoid engine knock, and also has to take steps to keep low side fuel pump from being outpaced due to COT fuel ratio requests, so it shuts down TB angle, etc.
By us taking the oil temp down, the coolant temp falls as well as a result... but the 2 figures of oil and coolant are kept pegged to each other, instead of the coolant free to drop while oil remains sky high. They stay bonded to each other because of the stock oil cooler HX brick location.
It will be curious what we end up running on the drivers side cheek in the automatic cars...
In the manual cars, it won't be radiator fluid, as it already has its aux cooler. So it will be blower fluid on the m7 cars.
On the automatics, its a toss up really... blower fluid or radiator fluid. Then there is still the fear that the A8 trans might still overheat if we are able to run longer and harder than previously possible.
We can turn the the drivers cheek into the trans cooler, and turn the chin hx into the aux radiator like the M7 cars do.
Time will tell, but this is why we will run the biggest possible coolers, while still keeping the brake ducts in tact.
one of the guys on here recommended the Spal fans. I did a bit of homework on them a while back, but then never moved forward with them, and kept the fan I already had. Then i noticed their high performance fans, that pump over 1,200cfm. I ordered one of those tonight, should be here by friday.
The oil cooler was already doing a great job with the normal fan, i'm curious what this expensive fan does when placed behind the big setrab oil cooler rated at 67,000btu/hr. Should be pretty wicked for a "no cut" solution
i see, i agree, they both throw it, but usually for most cars its the oil that throws it first i thought.
i cant believe your car stayed out of limp mode at 302 degrees oil, thats nuts.
So sorry if im still misunderstanding... you are going to remove your center HX for the blower, and instead run through 2 cheek coolers? This will clear up the radiator flow path you are hoping?
Yes. This is what G speed and LG do and have tested numerous times. I plan on going with the LG kit.
On my supercharged z51. Removing the oil load from the radiator took my coolant temps down about 20 degrees. That's with the stock skinny radiator and a Procharger intercooler blocking 1/3 of it (not restriction flow, literally blocking it) effectively reducing the radiator size. The oil cooler was not effective behind the radiator but the coolant was much happier.
Since I already have the oil cooler kit, I'm just going to either reinstall it in chin where it's fresh air or double it's size for a couple $$$ and install it so I don't have to do double the work. $300 for a 2019 radiator is also well worth it.
Btw I think only autos get the thicker radiator. Can you double check yours @X25 ? Easy way to check is if your hood duct is bolted to the shroud or radiator.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 04-25-2019 at 07:01 AM.
Yes. This is what G speed and LG do and have tested numerous times. I plan on going with the LG kit.
On my supercharged z51. Removing the oil load from the radiator took my coolant temps down about 20 degrees. That's with the stock skinny radiator and a Procharger intercooler blocking 1/3 of it (not restriction flow, literally blocking it) effectively reducing the radiator size. The oil cooler was not effective behind the radiator but the coolant was much happier.
Since I already have the oil cooler kit, I'm just going to either reinstall it in chin where it's fresh air or double it's size for a couple $$$ and install it so I don't have to do double the work. $300 for a 2019 radiator is also well worth it.
Btw I think only autos get the thicker radiator. Can you double check yours @X25 ? Easy way to check is if your hood duct is bolted to the shroud or radiator.
I took 2 quick pics before I left home for work. Does this help? It looks to be bolted onto the radiator?
I took 2 quick pics before I left home for work. Does this help? It looks to be bolted onto the radiator?
Take a closer look at the two top middle bolts. They either bolt to aluminum or the plastic shroud. Hard to tell but it looks like yours is the original size radiator.
Here's a comparison
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 04-25-2019 at 04:18 PM.
04-24-2019, 12:31 PM
Anyone own a ZL1 1LE and have track both cars?
