C7 ZR1 CCB replacement at 4K miles
02-26-2019, 01:19 PM
#21
Moderator
Duplicate threads merged.
02-26-2019, 02:21 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
something isn't adding up here.. I highly doubt you need to replace the rotors. sounds like the stealership is trying to take advantage of you. did you get the dash message to replace the pads? the rotors should last several pad changes.
02-26-2019, 08:00 PM
#24
Drifting
Your rotors should be fine... the dealer knows 'squat'... you can pull the pads out... and if you have at least 50% or more... just get some 'brake squeal' for the backings... coat liberally, and go back to enjoying your hotrod!
If you have less than 50%, I'm always a fan of replacing the pads if they get that low... just to keep the pistons in the caliper... and more consistent brake feel.
The other item, I don't believe you mentioned if you replaced the GM Factory brake fluid... you need too... it's junk. If money is no object... run Castrol SRF... if you're looking for something a bit more friendlier on the budget as well as quality enough for your track days... Motul, Prospeed, and Redline all make a good DOT 4. (plenty of other good brake fluids out there as well) Just get the oem fluid OUT.
Squealing isn't necessarily a sign of worn breaks on these cars, especially after a track day.. and if you aren't doing cool down laps before bringing the car in... they can get glazed and squeal. If you have tons of pad left on the OEM pads... doing a few 100 mph to 0 mph stops... can also 'cook off' that glazing, and then allow them to cool with a nice drive afterwards.
Best Regards,
Dave
If you have less than 50%, I'm always a fan of replacing the pads if they get that low... just to keep the pistons in the caliper... and more consistent brake feel.
The other item, I don't believe you mentioned if you replaced the GM Factory brake fluid... you need too... it's junk. If money is no object... run Castrol SRF... if you're looking for something a bit more friendlier on the budget as well as quality enough for your track days... Motul, Prospeed, and Redline all make a good DOT 4. (plenty of other good brake fluids out there as well) Just get the oem fluid OUT.
Squealing isn't necessarily a sign of worn breaks on these cars, especially after a track day.. and if you aren't doing cool down laps before bringing the car in... they can get glazed and squeal. If you have tons of pad left on the OEM pads... doing a few 100 mph to 0 mph stops... can also 'cook off' that glazing, and then allow them to cool with a nice drive afterwards.
Best Regards,
Dave
02-26-2019, 08:35 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
If you only have 2mm left of your front pads you should replace them. The rotors are weighed to determine if they need to be replaced. You didn't say why the rotors need to be replaced. Did the dealer pull your wheels? Perhaps they damaged it and don't want to pay for it. Nobody here, I mean no one replaced the rotors after 3 - 15 minute sessions. That is absurd! I would find another dealer ASAP.
02-27-2019, 01:05 AM
#26
Premium Supporting Vendor
Hi guys,
our cars are on track, being driven pretty hard most of the time. We on average will get about 1k to 1500 on them before they need replacing. The rotors have lasted about 4K or so on the fronts...have yet to replace any rear rotors. The rear pads, go usually 2 to 1 to the fronts. Again, these are almost all track miles!
from what the OP described, I would highly doubt the rotors are underweight. As for the pads...that’s a tossup. If they were burnished properly, and dot 4 brake fluid used, I would think they should be fine too. They need to be measured for sure though. As the rotors age, they do wear the pads faster, in our experience. Big thing also is the track being driven on. It is not hard to go 100+ with this beast all the time! Then if a small track, could be a lot of heavier braking as well as tight corners. Cool down lap or laps, with very little braking are always a good thing too!
our cars are on track, being driven pretty hard most of the time. We on average will get about 1k to 1500 on them before they need replacing. The rotors have lasted about 4K or so on the fronts...have yet to replace any rear rotors. The rear pads, go usually 2 to 1 to the fronts. Again, these are almost all track miles!
from what the OP described, I would highly doubt the rotors are underweight. As for the pads...that’s a tossup. If they were burnished properly, and dot 4 brake fluid used, I would think they should be fine too. They need to be measured for sure though. As the rotors age, they do wear the pads faster, in our experience. Big thing also is the track being driven on. It is not hard to go 100+ with this beast all the time! Then if a small track, could be a lot of heavier braking as well as tight corners. Cool down lap or laps, with very little braking are always a good thing too!
With your description of how the car has been driven that doesn’t sound right. I may be wrong but I believe the cars at spring mountain go longer than that and all they see is abuse. Did the pads wear evenly? Did you perform the brake burnishing procedure? Even if the pads are worn it doesn’t mean the rotors need to be. You can weigh them to see if they are still usable.
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02-27-2019, 09:38 PM
#27
Race Director
I can't see how the CC rotors would be shot. I could, however see pads being smoked from the heat like JVP mentioned earlier. I would replace the pads and burnish properly with the appropriate fluid and lubrication.
02-28-2019, 09:51 AM
#29
Racer
Do you have extremely wide feet? Did you drive everywhere with your foot on the brake?
I had a 2016 C7.R Edition Z06 with the Carbon Ceramic Brakes and did 3 days of track sessions during 20,000 miles for mainly freeway miles over more than 2 years and the brakes were still the original pads and rotors and showed no sign of wear.
Sounds to me like something is wrong with your brakes, either not fully releasing or fault materials.
I had a 2016 C7.R Edition Z06 with the Carbon Ceramic Brakes and did 3 days of track sessions during 20,000 miles for mainly freeway miles over more than 2 years and the brakes were still the original pads and rotors and showed no sign of wear.
Sounds to me like something is wrong with your brakes, either not fully releasing or fault materials.
03-01-2019, 11:47 AM
#32
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Hey guys, new to the forums here, I bought Zr1 #992 in November of 2018, and for the past few months have been driving it, id say about 3-4 times a week average. I’ve put 3700k miles on it, and mild sprited driving along with 3 15mins secessions with 1 hour gaps between them, on a small track with light driving (first time on track, was just driving to get used to the car no heavy braking). I’ve noticed a lot of brake fade and I’m hearing a loud squeaking when braking. My front pads maybe have 2mm before they hit metal. I talked to service over the phone and they said I need to replace the rotors and pads at the same time, which is a wonderfully terrible $6,700 repair bill. If GM expects its owners to be paying 7k ever 4K miles then that is baffling. Is this consistent with the CCB’s on any other car? And is there a chance that I can file a warranty claim if I do indeed need to replace the rotors. Thank you all very much and I’m open to any and all help, thank you all.
Update: I also want to note that the majority of the cars miles are on the freeway, mostly because I drive the car sometimes to work and then maybe once in a while go around while my Daily driver is being used by my fiance and not to mention I live some 1000 yards from the freeway, and my work is right off an exit. I'd go as far to say its more of a freeway car than a street or track car! hahah. Regardless, I have an appointment with the dealership this Saturday to discuss a warranty solution if the situation permits it. If they hassle me, I have a friend who works in the escalation department for GM who maybe can help me out. I have no problem paying for brake pads, but rotors at 4k miles?? And not to mention they are trying to tell me I need to replace the rotors if I want to get new pads.
Update: I also want to note that the majority of the cars miles are on the freeway, mostly because I drive the car sometimes to work and then maybe once in a while go around while my Daily driver is being used by my fiance and not to mention I live some 1000 yards from the freeway, and my work is right off an exit. I'd go as far to say its more of a freeway car than a street or track car! hahah. Regardless, I have an appointment with the dealership this Saturday to discuss a warranty solution if the situation permits it. If they hassle me, I have a friend who works in the escalation department for GM who maybe can help me out. I have no problem paying for brake pads, but rotors at 4k miles?? And not to mention they are trying to tell me I need to replace the rotors if I want to get new pads.
When I was still running the CCM brakes on my C7Z I would get about 6 hard track days on a set of front pads and about 12 days on a set of rear pads. Front rotors would last somewhere between 13 and 15 track days while rear rotors would last about 20. With the C7 ZR1 you have the potential of higher speeds on the straights and a heavier car to slow down so wear rates could be accelerated from what I saw. Given that you really didn't push the car hard in those three sessions I would think your problem lies elsewhere.
A couple of questions: Did you do the brake burnishing recommended in the Owner's Manual? When you say 2 mm of pad thickness left have you seen a Brakes Worn or similar warning on the DIC? Have you checked the inside pad where the wear sensor is located?
If you still have pad material showing I don't think you need to replace the rotors. With your light usage I am wondering why you only have 2mm left. It sounds like I used the brakes on my Z06 harder doing the burnishing than you used yours on track as I got quite aggressive long before I reached the required 50 stops. Doing and keeping track of 50 stops in a row is mind numbing and extremely boring so once my pads had started smoking I went to higher speeds and harder stops which really caused some smoking with significant brake fade until I drove a couple of miles to cool the pads.
Bill
03-01-2019, 05:48 PM
#33
Hey guys, new to the forums here, I bought Zr1 #992 in November of 2018, and for the past few months have been driving it, id say about 3-4 times a week average. I’ve put 3700k miles on it, and mild sprited driving along with 3 15mins secessions with 1 hour gaps between them, on a small track with light driving (first time on track, was just driving to get used to the car no heavy braking). I’ve noticed a lot of brake fade and I’m hearing a loud squeaking when braking. My front pads maybe have 2mm before they hit metal. I talked to service over the phone and they said I need to replace the rotors and pads at the same time, which is a wonderfully terrible $6,700 repair bill. If GM expects its owners to be paying 7k ever 4K miles then that is baffling. Is this consistent with the CCB’s on any other car? And is there a chance that I can file a warranty claim if I do indeed need to replace the rotors. Thank you all very much and I’m open to any and all help, thank you all.
Update: I also want to note that the majority of the cars miles are on the freeway, mostly because I drive the car sometimes to work and then maybe once in a while go around while my Daily driver is being used by my fiance and not to mention I live some 1000 yards from the freeway, and my work is right off an exit. I'd go as far to say its more of a freeway car than a street or track car! hahah. Regardless, I have an appointment with the dealership this Saturday to discuss a warranty solution if the situation permits it. If they hassle me, I have a friend who works in the escalation department for GM who maybe can help me out. I have no problem paying for brake pads, but rotors at 4k miles?? And not to mention they are trying to tell me I need to replace the rotors if I want to get new pads.
Update: I also want to note that the majority of the cars miles are on the freeway, mostly because I drive the car sometimes to work and then maybe once in a while go around while my Daily driver is being used by my fiance and not to mention I live some 1000 yards from the freeway, and my work is right off an exit. I'd go as far to say its more of a freeway car than a street or track car! hahah. Regardless, I have an appointment with the dealership this Saturday to discuss a warranty solution if the situation permits it. If they hassle me, I have a friend who works in the escalation department for GM who maybe can help me out. I have no problem paying for brake pads, but rotors at 4k miles?? And not to mention they are trying to tell me I need to replace the rotors if I want to get new pads.
1. Something is very wrong here - there is no way that they could wear out under these circumstances unless there is something seriously wrong with the brakes; I have nearly 50,000 miles of experience with two different cars. One is not tracked, the other is. With only street use, the original brakes should last essentially forever. With hard track use, you can expect to need pad replacement every 3,000-5,000 track miles or so.......this is a SWAG because there are so many variables involved here. I still have 80% remaining on my tracked CCB rotors.
2. The costs you were quoted strike me as incredibly low. $5,000-$8,000 per rotor is more like it; not a place you want to go :-) Pads could be a grand or two per axle.
3. I have no idea how you could experience fade with CCBs given your driving conditions.
4. Find another dealer and get a second opinion/involve GM corporate
03-01-2019, 07:29 PM
#34
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There seems to be several opinions on what procedure to follow when burnishing the J57 brake option. I picked up my ZR1 Dec. of 2018. The insert to the manual states: "From a stop, accelerate as rapidly as possible without activating traction control to a speed of 60mph. Use enough pedal force to completely stop the vehicle in four to five seconds....... repeat 20 times. Should take about 5 minutes. Then drive for 5 miles at 60mph." (not exactly word for word)
03-01-2019, 08:57 PM
#35
There seems to be several opinions on what procedure to follow when burnishing the J57 brake option. I picked up my ZR1 Dec. of 2018. The insert to the manual states: "From a stop, accelerate as rapidly as possible without activating traction control to a speed of 60mph. Use enough pedal force to completely stop the vehicle in four to five seconds....... repeat 20 times. Should take about 5 minutes. Then drive for 5 miles at 60mph." (not exactly word for word)
Last edited by Rinaldo Catria; 03-01-2019 at 08:58 PM.
03-01-2019, 10:39 PM
#36
In all seriousness Southern Son, thanks for giving us a heads up on the revision to the burnishment procedure. I made a joke because it seems bizarre that GM would change the procedure to less than half the stops. I feel I should have rec’d the manual addendum in the mail. As it turns out, I haven’t burnished my brakes yet but am planning to do it this spring before tracking the car. With the snow on the ground in the UP right now, that's not anytime soon unfortunately. Maybe 4th of July. 
Last edited by Rinaldo Catria; 03-01-2019 at 10:40 PM.
03-01-2019, 11:38 PM
#37
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"From a stop, accelerate as rapidly as possible without activating traction control to a speed of 60mph. Use enough pedal force to completely stop the vehicle in four to five seconds....... repeat 20 times. Should take about 5 minutes. Then drive for 5 miles at 60mph."
Ultimately, if you're tracking the car, you can skip the street burnishing procedure. Just do the track one during your first session of thee day and throw it away. You'll be all set.
03-02-2019, 12:26 AM
#38
Le Mans Master
Does the insert claim that that's only for the ZR1? Or for any of the CCB-equipped cars? Given the difference in pads between the ZR1 and the other cars, I wonder if they warm up faster and only need 20 vs 50 stops to begin the out-gassing? Good to know.
Ultimately, if you're tracking the car, you can skip the street burnishing procedure. Just do the track one during your first session of thee day and throw it away. You'll be all set.
Ultimately, if you're tracking the car, you can skip the street burnishing procedure. Just do the track one during your first session of thee day and throw it away. You'll be all set.
03-02-2019, 10:45 AM
#39
Le Mans Master
See post # 26.
We don't know the exact way the OP drives.
There could be a mechanical issue, like a stuck caliper piston, we don't know.
Spring Mountain seems to say CCB front rotors last them 4K mileage.
Front pads last 1.5K miles.
That's the mileage life the OP has.
SM also says CCB rear rotors last significantly longer.
Their rear pads last 3K miles.
I'd say that is strongest evidence as to CCB life is the car is tracked.
GM conclusion for the OP is.... ?
We don't know the exact way the OP drives.
There could be a mechanical issue, like a stuck caliper piston, we don't know.
Spring Mountain seems to say CCB front rotors last them 4K mileage.
Front pads last 1.5K miles.
That's the mileage life the OP has.
SM also says CCB rear rotors last significantly longer.
Their rear pads last 3K miles.
I'd say that is strongest evidence as to CCB life is the car is tracked.
GM conclusion for the OP is.... ?
03-02-2019, 12:03 PM
#40
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