New Lithium Battery option from Antigravity Batteries
06-27-2019, 09:22 AM
#41
Safety Car
So while I think you would be okay from a general starting standpoint in regards to cranking power, this would be a small capacity battery to put in any street vehicle and that would be the main concern. Just to expand on your example if perhaps the engine becomes flooded or there's something else preventing the vehicle from running you're left with a very small capacity to work with in regards to getting out of that scenario, yes you have the re-start feature to work with but it's not a huge reserve and we'd always want something in place with a bigger capacity that is going to have the ability to get you restarted. I would lean more so to something like the ATX20-RS at the smallest if you're really looking to stay as small and light weight as possible.
In regards to charging these guys can accept up to 15v but normally your car will be putting out somewhere in the 14v range which is right in the batteries wheelhouse. If it is a concern or you're unsure about what output is the battery tracker would be a great tool to have to keep track of it.
Hopefully that makes sense but please feel free to email me directly if you have any questions chad@antigravitybatteries.com
In regards to charging these guys can accept up to 15v but normally your car will be putting out somewhere in the 14v range which is right in the batteries wheelhouse. If it is a concern or you're unsure about what output is the battery tracker would be a great tool to have to keep track of it.
Hopefully that makes sense but please feel free to email me directly if you have any questions chad@antigravitybatteries.com
https://www.iisd.org/sites/default/f...-recycling.pdf Does this paper interest you from a business point of view?
06-27-2019, 03:07 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
I am looking for a light drop-in lithium battery that resides in an old school built-in fiberglass box behind the drivers seat for my daily driver resto-modded '74.
I had a few questions/concerns:
What battery size would you suggest for a daily driver, slightly modified, 500 HP LS3 with typical electrical accessories?
Your batteries are lithium iron phosphate correct?
What's the max voltage I can apply to the BMS before damage occurs?
Do people install a voltage regulator to prevent this situation?
At what temperature does thermal runaway begin?
Does your internal BMS balance cells?
What's the max recommended charging current to promote extended life? C/2? Does your BMS regulate to this?
I had a few questions/concerns:
What battery size would you suggest for a daily driver, slightly modified, 500 HP LS3 with typical electrical accessories?
Your batteries are lithium iron phosphate correct?
What's the max voltage I can apply to the BMS before damage occurs?
Do people install a voltage regulator to prevent this situation?
At what temperature does thermal runaway begin?
Does your internal BMS balance cells?
What's the max recommended charging current to promote extended life? C/2? Does your BMS regulate to this?
06-27-2019, 04:22 PM
#43
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Being you have 500HP you need some good power. And as a Daily Driver you may have situation where you leave your stereo running without the motor running, or maybe you have some extra accessories? That could play into what Amp Hour Capacity you need is. Amp hours is basically how big the battery pack is inside the Battery itself, and that also translates to the Power of the Battery... but even one of our small Lithium Batteries would easily start the car. So the more capacity you have the less you have to worry about accidental discharge if you have something running or creating parasitic drains. With that being said we prefer to see Daily Driver using 30Ah usually. 30Ah is a solid Amp Hour Capacity, weighs about 11-12lbs and has really great cranking power. Some Performance guys go with the 24Ah model to drop a little more weight, but that requires more of an eye on the battery if you have accessories that create a parasitic draw. But also most older Cars usually have a simple system and do not have a lot of Parasitic Drain which means the batteries can hold a charge very long time if the car isn't driven much. Are you driving in Freezing Weather?
So you have a few options on this front.
We have a Battery called the RS-30, 30Amp Hours which doesn't have the "Wireless Jump Starting", but DOES have a Push Button Jump Starting. So it does the same thing but is not WIRELESS but is LESS expensive, but has the same battery inside.
We have our H6 size 30Ah model with the Wireless Jump STarting. Again 30Ah but has a larger Case Size.
We have a new very compact 24Ah unit that just came out... but does not have the Jump Starting Feature but is less expensive than the options above.
Your batteries are lithium iron phosphate correct? Yes Lithium-Iron Phosphate Chemistry (Lifepo4)
What's the max voltage I can apply to the BMS before damage occurs? Our BMS has an OVER-CHARGE protection feature... but you do not want to be bouncing off that. the Charging system should not be charging above 14.8v Max. And even though we have a BMS that protects form OVER-CHARGE it is not meant to control or modify the incoming Voltage/Current of a damaged or defective Regulator. In other words it is not meant to fix or be a band-aid for a defective Voltage Regulator or protect from a system that is not operating correctly. It is for the occasional spikes that might occur in a vehicles system.
Do people install a voltage regulator to prevent this situation? In most relatively modern cars the voltage regulator was often built into the Alternator, and in some it is a seperate component usually in the engine compartment. Being honest I am not familiar enough with Vettes to know which system they were/are using.... but there should be something in your car doing this already. Voltage regulation is part of a Cars Charging system. But with the RESTO-MOD, I am not sure what changes have been made. But the charging system should be operating and functioning as the stock system does with regulation.... which I have to assume it would be doing in your car. A lead acid battery also required Voltage regulation. But if you have any uncertainty please verify this for sure. I would not recommend installing our battery if your system does not operate just like a stock Cars system.
At what temperature does thermal runaway begin?
Thermal runaway does not start as any particular temperature. The factors that cause this are usually because a Lithium Battery has been severely over-discharged, then put in the position of taking a fast charge. Our Batteries won't allow for the Over-Discharge, it part of our Built-In protections in the BMS.... But to answer you question and assuming someone is using and OLD or Cheap Brand of Battery then Thermal Runaway is cause for mainly the following reason. Say a Lithium battery was severely over-discharged, say to 4v. Then the Car is Jump Started and the Charging system starts pumping in a fast charge into the Lithium battery that is severely over-discharged.... well at some point IF the charge rate is high the batteries start getting very hot... then at some point they may go into Thermal Runaway.... its rare but does happen on Cheap Lithium Batteries or Lithium without a good or no BMS. The other main culprit is using the wrong stand alone charger or the wrong voltage charger on a lithium battery. Again our batteries have all the protections to prevent that. But regardless of our BMS and built-in protections, we don't want the battery in a system that is "Non-standard" or "Custom" because those systems work outside the Standard parameters of a Vehicles Charging system and we have not idea of what the system is doing.
Does your internal BMS balance cells? Yes, as well as short-circuit protection, over-discharge, over-charge protections and thermal protections.
What's the max recommended charging current to promote extended life? C/2? Does your BMS regulate to this? We are a conservative company and say 1C is a fine rate. For people who do not understand 1C charge rate mean 1x the number of Amp Hours in the battery. So a 30Amp Hour Battery could be charged at 30 Amps, a 15Amp Hour Battery at 15Amps. Our BMS DOES NOT regulate this, it has forms of over-voltage protections, but we rely on the proper charging being supplied to the battery. We also expect the battery being installed in a Standard 12v Vehicle system as they are intended for that specific use. We also expect to user to use a brand name Lithium Vehicle Charger if they use and aftermarket charger. As you can see I keep going back to saying our products work in Standard Vehicle 12v systems, and using Standard Aftermarket Lithium Motorsports Battery Chargers, I say this only because we run into quite a few "Do-it yourselfers" who want to make their own chargers, or modify some existing charger to work with a Lithium Battery, or use adjustable alternators from other vehicles, and when that happens we are not talking a controlled or standardized environment. So we stay clear of that type of situation because they can damage our product or create a potential for un-known issues or circumstances.
The following 2 users liked this post by Antigravity:
Black04Vert (06-28-2019),
Shaka (06-27-2019)
06-27-2019, 06:55 PM
#44
Drifting
Lithiums are really cool tech, but they aren't quite ready for the prime-time mass market OEM replacement yet IMO.
Automotive electrical systems are harsh places, and if you treat a lithium like you'd treat a lead battery, it WILL go bad on you.
With lithium:
You hook up a charger with a high amp battery starter feature in it, or just a cheap charger in general. Dead.
You let the battery completely discharge. Dead.
Battery too hot. Dead
Battery too cold. Not enough power.
No internal cell management system: Dead
And when I say dead, I mean the battery is junk. Buy a new one.
Even with proper treatment, Lithium can only be expected to last 6-8 years. If you treated a lead battery this well it would last up to 12 years.
Now AntiGravity seems like a reputable company because they actually put a Battery cell management system on their battery. MANY 12v lithium battery mfrs are crooks and do not do this. And if this system fails it's covered under warranty (prorated) So props to them. However, it's not user accessible so if a CELL fails the entire battery is still junk. You cannot just replace the bad cell.
They also seem to include a partial over-discharge protection system. But over-discharge is NOT covered under warranty.
IMO for a lithium battery to be ready for prime time mass 12v automotive adoption, It would need a thermal management system (for cold climates) a battery cell management system that indicates bad cells, full over-discharge protection, high voltage protection, and voltage spike protection.
You don't want to know how much that battery costs lol.
Automotive electrical systems are harsh places, and if you treat a lithium like you'd treat a lead battery, it WILL go bad on you.
With lithium:
You hook up a charger with a high amp battery starter feature in it, or just a cheap charger in general. Dead.
You let the battery completely discharge. Dead.
Battery too hot. Dead
Battery too cold. Not enough power.
No internal cell management system: Dead
And when I say dead, I mean the battery is junk. Buy a new one.
Even with proper treatment, Lithium can only be expected to last 6-8 years. If you treated a lead battery this well it would last up to 12 years.
Now AntiGravity seems like a reputable company because they actually put a Battery cell management system on their battery. MANY 12v lithium battery mfrs are crooks and do not do this. And if this system fails it's covered under warranty (prorated) So props to them. However, it's not user accessible so if a CELL fails the entire battery is still junk. You cannot just replace the bad cell.
They also seem to include a partial over-discharge protection system. But over-discharge is NOT covered under warranty.
IMO for a lithium battery to be ready for prime time mass 12v automotive adoption, It would need a thermal management system (for cold climates) a battery cell management system that indicates bad cells, full over-discharge protection, high voltage protection, and voltage spike protection.
You don't want to know how much that battery costs lol.
My BMW & KTM enduro motorcycles have lithium batteries that are >8 years old & still work fine with no special fussing.
06-27-2019, 10:47 PM
#45
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,347
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
What battery size would you suggest for a daily driver, slightly modified, 500 HP LS3 with typical electrical accessories?
Being you have 500HP you need some good power. And as a Daily Driver you may have situation where you leave your stereo running without the motor running, or maybe you have some extra accessories? That could play into what Amp Hour Capacity you need is. Amp hours is basically how big the battery pack is inside the Battery itself, and that also translates to the Power of the Battery... but even one of our small Lithium Batteries would easily start the car. So the more capacity you have the less you have to worry about accidental discharge if you have something running or creating parasitic drains. With that being said we prefer to see Daily Driver using 30Ah usually. 30Ah is a solid Amp Hour Capacity, weighs about 11-12lbs and has really great cranking power. Some Performance guys go with the 24Ah model to drop a little more weight, but that requires more of an eye on the battery if you have accessories that create a parasitic draw. But also most older Cars usually have a simple system and do not have a lot of Parasitic Drain which means the batteries can hold a charge very long time if the car isn't driven much. Are you driving in Freezing Weather?
So you have a few options on this front.
We have a Battery called the RS-30, 30Amp Hours which doesn't have the "Wireless Jump Starting", but DOES have a Push Button Jump Starting. So it does the same thing but is not WIRELESS but is LESS expensive, but has the same battery inside.
We have our H6 size 30Ah model with the Wireless Jump STarting. Again 30Ah but has a larger Case Size.
We have a new very compact 24Ah unit that just came out... but does not have the Jump Starting Feature but is less expensive than the options above.
Your batteries are lithium iron phosphate correct? Yes Lithium-Iron Phosphate Chemistry (Lifepo4)
What's the max voltage I can apply to the BMS before damage occurs? Our BMS has an OVER-CHARGE protection feature... but you do not want to be bouncing off that. the Charging system should not be charging above 14.8v Max. And even though we have a BMS that protects form OVER-CHARGE it is not meant to control or modify the incoming Voltage/Current of a damaged or defective Regulator. In other words it is not meant to fix or be a band-aid for a defective Voltage Regulator or protect from a system that is not operating correctly. It is for the occasional spikes that might occur in a vehicles system.
Do people install a voltage regulator to prevent this situation? In most relatively modern cars the voltage regulator was often built into the Alternator, and in some it is a seperate component usually in the engine compartment. Being honest I am not familiar enough with Vettes to know which system they were/are using.... but there should be something in your car doing this already. Voltage regulation is part of a Cars Charging system. But with the RESTO-MOD, I am not sure what changes have been made. But the charging system should be operating and functioning as the stock system does with regulation.... which I have to assume it would be doing in your car. A lead acid battery also required Voltage regulation. But if you have any uncertainty please verify this for sure. I would not recommend installing our battery if your system does not operate just like a stock Cars system.
At what temperature does thermal runaway begin?
Thermal runaway does not start as any particular temperature. The factors that cause this are usually because a Lithium Battery has been severely over-discharged, then put in the position of taking a fast charge. Our Batteries won't allow for the Over-Discharge, it part of our Built-In protections in the BMS.... But to answer you question and assuming someone is using and OLD or Cheap Brand of Battery then Thermal Runaway is cause for mainly the following reason. Say a Lithium battery was severely over-discharged, say to 4v. Then the Car is Jump Started and the Charging system starts pumping in a fast charge into the Lithium battery that is severely over-discharged.... well at some point IF the charge rate is high the batteries start getting very hot... then at some point they may go into Thermal Runaway.... its rare but does happen on Cheap Lithium Batteries or Lithium without a good or no BMS. The other main culprit is using the wrong stand alone charger or the wrong voltage charger on a lithium battery. Again our batteries have all the protections to prevent that. But regardless of our BMS and built-in protections, we don't want the battery in a system that is "Non-standard" or "Custom" because those systems work outside the Standard parameters of a Vehicles Charging system and we have not idea of what the system is doing.
Does your internal BMS balance cells? Yes, as well as short-circuit protection, over-discharge, over-charge protections and thermal protections.
What's the max recommended charging current to promote extended life? C/2? Does your BMS regulate to this? We are a conservative company and say 1C is a fine rate. For people who do not understand 1C charge rate mean 1x the number of Amp Hours in the battery. So a 30Amp Hour Battery could be charged at 30 Amps, a 15Amp Hour Battery at 15Amps. Our BMS DOES NOT regulate this, it has forms of over-voltage protections, but we rely on the proper charging being supplied to the battery. We also expect the battery being installed in a Standard 12v Vehicle system as they are intended for that specific use. We also expect to user to use a brand name Lithium Vehicle Charger if they use and aftermarket charger. As you can see I keep going back to saying our products work in Standard Vehicle 12v systems, and using Standard Aftermarket Lithium Motorsports Battery Chargers, I say this only because we run into quite a few "Do-it yourselfers" who want to make their own chargers, or modify some existing charger to work with a Lithium Battery, or use adjustable alternators from other vehicles, and when that happens we are not talking a controlled or standardized environment. So we stay clear of that type of situation because they can damage our product or create a potential for un-known issues or circumstances.
Being you have 500HP you need some good power. And as a Daily Driver you may have situation where you leave your stereo running without the motor running, or maybe you have some extra accessories? That could play into what Amp Hour Capacity you need is. Amp hours is basically how big the battery pack is inside the Battery itself, and that also translates to the Power of the Battery... but even one of our small Lithium Batteries would easily start the car. So the more capacity you have the less you have to worry about accidental discharge if you have something running or creating parasitic drains. With that being said we prefer to see Daily Driver using 30Ah usually. 30Ah is a solid Amp Hour Capacity, weighs about 11-12lbs and has really great cranking power. Some Performance guys go with the 24Ah model to drop a little more weight, but that requires more of an eye on the battery if you have accessories that create a parasitic draw. But also most older Cars usually have a simple system and do not have a lot of Parasitic Drain which means the batteries can hold a charge very long time if the car isn't driven much. Are you driving in Freezing Weather?
So you have a few options on this front.
We have a Battery called the RS-30, 30Amp Hours which doesn't have the "Wireless Jump Starting", but DOES have a Push Button Jump Starting. So it does the same thing but is not WIRELESS but is LESS expensive, but has the same battery inside.
We have our H6 size 30Ah model with the Wireless Jump STarting. Again 30Ah but has a larger Case Size.
We have a new very compact 24Ah unit that just came out... but does not have the Jump Starting Feature but is less expensive than the options above.
Your batteries are lithium iron phosphate correct? Yes Lithium-Iron Phosphate Chemistry (Lifepo4)
What's the max voltage I can apply to the BMS before damage occurs? Our BMS has an OVER-CHARGE protection feature... but you do not want to be bouncing off that. the Charging system should not be charging above 14.8v Max. And even though we have a BMS that protects form OVER-CHARGE it is not meant to control or modify the incoming Voltage/Current of a damaged or defective Regulator. In other words it is not meant to fix or be a band-aid for a defective Voltage Regulator or protect from a system that is not operating correctly. It is for the occasional spikes that might occur in a vehicles system.
Do people install a voltage regulator to prevent this situation? In most relatively modern cars the voltage regulator was often built into the Alternator, and in some it is a seperate component usually in the engine compartment. Being honest I am not familiar enough with Vettes to know which system they were/are using.... but there should be something in your car doing this already. Voltage regulation is part of a Cars Charging system. But with the RESTO-MOD, I am not sure what changes have been made. But the charging system should be operating and functioning as the stock system does with regulation.... which I have to assume it would be doing in your car. A lead acid battery also required Voltage regulation. But if you have any uncertainty please verify this for sure. I would not recommend installing our battery if your system does not operate just like a stock Cars system.
At what temperature does thermal runaway begin?
Thermal runaway does not start as any particular temperature. The factors that cause this are usually because a Lithium Battery has been severely over-discharged, then put in the position of taking a fast charge. Our Batteries won't allow for the Over-Discharge, it part of our Built-In protections in the BMS.... But to answer you question and assuming someone is using and OLD or Cheap Brand of Battery then Thermal Runaway is cause for mainly the following reason. Say a Lithium battery was severely over-discharged, say to 4v. Then the Car is Jump Started and the Charging system starts pumping in a fast charge into the Lithium battery that is severely over-discharged.... well at some point IF the charge rate is high the batteries start getting very hot... then at some point they may go into Thermal Runaway.... its rare but does happen on Cheap Lithium Batteries or Lithium without a good or no BMS. The other main culprit is using the wrong stand alone charger or the wrong voltage charger on a lithium battery. Again our batteries have all the protections to prevent that. But regardless of our BMS and built-in protections, we don't want the battery in a system that is "Non-standard" or "Custom" because those systems work outside the Standard parameters of a Vehicles Charging system and we have not idea of what the system is doing.
Does your internal BMS balance cells? Yes, as well as short-circuit protection, over-discharge, over-charge protections and thermal protections.
What's the max recommended charging current to promote extended life? C/2? Does your BMS regulate to this? We are a conservative company and say 1C is a fine rate. For people who do not understand 1C charge rate mean 1x the number of Amp Hours in the battery. So a 30Amp Hour Battery could be charged at 30 Amps, a 15Amp Hour Battery at 15Amps. Our BMS DOES NOT regulate this, it has forms of over-voltage protections, but we rely on the proper charging being supplied to the battery. We also expect the battery being installed in a Standard 12v Vehicle system as they are intended for that specific use. We also expect to user to use a brand name Lithium Vehicle Charger if they use and aftermarket charger. As you can see I keep going back to saying our products work in Standard Vehicle 12v systems, and using Standard Aftermarket Lithium Motorsports Battery Chargers, I say this only because we run into quite a few "Do-it yourselfers" who want to make their own chargers, or modify some existing charger to work with a Lithium Battery, or use adjustable alternators from other vehicles, and when that happens we are not talking a controlled or standardized environment. So we stay clear of that type of situation because they can damage our product or create a potential for un-known issues or circumstances.
06-28-2019, 06:26 PM
#46
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Hi David, Yes, the 2019 ZR1 is using the same size as any C7 with the H6 size and you could go with either the 30Ah or 40Ah option pending on how the car is driven.
06-28-2019, 06:30 PM
#47
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Regarding the last paragraph (max recommended charging rate), can you clear up some seemingly conflicting information? I've been looking at the ATX-20-RS battery. The above information says this battery can be charged at 20 Amps. However, looking at this battery on one of your vendor's sites, on the lower left corner of the battery, in small print, it says Max charge rate 8 amps. What's the details here?
I told you our battery can handle a 1C charger rate... but there is actually really no need to state that on the battery itself. For example an ATX20-RS being charged with an 8 Amp Lifepo4 Charger would take about 15- 20 minutes to FULLY charge it because...
1- It is a pretty small Battery in the scheme of things so 8 Amps is an extremely fast charge on a Powersports Size Battery.
2- Our RE-START Batteries always stay in the top part of the Voltage Range since they have the SLEEP MODE if they ever get over-discharged. So they will not go super low in voltage below 12v... so charging from 12v to the 13.8 to 14.6v that most Lithium Chargers charge to is very quick. It is not like recharging a big Lead/Acid Battery....
3- Lithium Charges VERY fast when its above 11.5v. When lithium is above 11.5 volts it can accept a very fast charge efficiently. So again 8 amps would charge it fully very quickly.
4- Overall Lifespan, Safety.... With an 8-amp Charger rate max a Customer can't really even remotely stress the battery at all, meaning its super easy on the BMS,and the Battery, so it a very conservative safe charging all around and sort of makes people wary of wanting to try higher charging rates.... which people will do. We often get calls about putting our batteries on high amp(40A) chargers and always say don't do it just follow the label.
5- Last is just nobody needs to charge faster than 20 minutes except in racing and that is where we will tell people the actual rate if they need to get a battery recharged before another session.... like in drag racing.
So in the end we just want easy, safe, efficient charging. Additionally most any CTEK or Optimate Lithium Chargers have a Max Charging Rate of 5 Amps , though Optimate does make a 9Amp Charger. These work perfectly well with even our 40Ah Auto Batteries and charge them FASTER than Lead Acid charges by about half. So there is no reason for use to state high Charge rates on these smaller Batteries.
So anyway just wanted to be very clear and give others who might read this and understanding of charging a lithium battery.
The following users liked this post:
Shaka (06-29-2019)
06-29-2019, 02:08 PM
#48
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,347
Received 767 Likes
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Ok so here is how that works. As I mentioned we are conservative in all our specs.
I told you our battery can handle a 1C charger rate... but there is actually really no need to state that on the battery itself. For example an ATX20-RS being charged with an 8 Amp Lifepo4 Charger would take about 15- 20 minutes to FULLY charge it because...
1- It is a pretty small Battery in the scheme of things so 8 Amps is an extremely fast charge on a Powersports Size Battery.
2- Our RE-START Batteries always stay in the top part of the Voltage Range since they have the SLEEP MODE if they ever get over-discharged. So they will not go super low in voltage below 12v... so charging from 12v to the 13.8 to 14.6v that most Lithium Chargers charge to is very quick. It is not like recharging a big Lead/Acid Battery....
3- Lithium Charges VERY fast when its above 11.5v. When lithium is above 11.5 volts it can accept a very fast charge efficiently. So again 8 amps would charge it fully very quickly.
4- Overall Lifespan, Safety.... With an 8-amp Charger rate max a Customer can't really even remotely stress the battery at all, meaning its super easy on the BMS,and the Battery, so it a very conservative safe charging all around and sort of makes people wary of wanting to try higher charging rates.... which people will do. We often get calls about putting our batteries on high amp(40A) chargers and always say don't do it just follow the label.
5- Last is just nobody needs to charge faster than 20 minutes except in racing and that is where we will tell people the actual rate if they need to get a battery recharged before another session.... like in drag racing.
So in the end we just want easy, safe, efficient charging. Additionally most any CTEK or Optimate Lithium Chargers have a Max Charging Rate of 5 Amps , though Optimate does make a 9Amp Charger. These work perfectly well with even our 40Ah Auto Batteries and charge them FASTER than Lead Acid charges by about half. So there is no reason for use to state high Charge rates on these smaller Batteries.
So anyway just wanted to be very clear and give others who might read this and understanding of charging a lithium battery.
I told you our battery can handle a 1C charger rate... but there is actually really no need to state that on the battery itself. For example an ATX20-RS being charged with an 8 Amp Lifepo4 Charger would take about 15- 20 minutes to FULLY charge it because...
1- It is a pretty small Battery in the scheme of things so 8 Amps is an extremely fast charge on a Powersports Size Battery.
2- Our RE-START Batteries always stay in the top part of the Voltage Range since they have the SLEEP MODE if they ever get over-discharged. So they will not go super low in voltage below 12v... so charging from 12v to the 13.8 to 14.6v that most Lithium Chargers charge to is very quick. It is not like recharging a big Lead/Acid Battery....
3- Lithium Charges VERY fast when its above 11.5v. When lithium is above 11.5 volts it can accept a very fast charge efficiently. So again 8 amps would charge it fully very quickly.
4- Overall Lifespan, Safety.... With an 8-amp Charger rate max a Customer can't really even remotely stress the battery at all, meaning its super easy on the BMS,and the Battery, so it a very conservative safe charging all around and sort of makes people wary of wanting to try higher charging rates.... which people will do. We often get calls about putting our batteries on high amp(40A) chargers and always say don't do it just follow the label.
5- Last is just nobody needs to charge faster than 20 minutes except in racing and that is where we will tell people the actual rate if they need to get a battery recharged before another session.... like in drag racing.
So in the end we just want easy, safe, efficient charging. Additionally most any CTEK or Optimate Lithium Chargers have a Max Charging Rate of 5 Amps , though Optimate does make a 9Amp Charger. These work perfectly well with even our 40Ah Auto Batteries and charge them FASTER than Lead Acid charges by about half. So there is no reason for use to state high Charge rates on these smaller Batteries.
So anyway just wanted to be very clear and give others who might read this and understanding of charging a lithium battery.
Regarding line #2: If this battery goes into sleep mode at 12 volts, what is the cranking energy (Joules, V x I x t) available before it shuts down (and I assume no more cranking) if the battery is charged to the 14.6v example you mention? I can measure my starter current, so I know what my requirements are (as I mentioned in a previous post, my present 360 CA $29.95 lawnmower battery cranks my engine just fine).
I'm interested in your product, but I need some actual usable information.
Thank you.
06-30-2019, 12:10 PM
#49
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Okay, respectfully, I don't see much point in considering your product if all I get is information on using a battery charger on it. My (quickly fading) interest in your product is for a vehicle (equipped with an alternator!) that gets driven on the street and track, Perhaps my problem is that I'm used to conversing with engineers, and getting a straight technical answer, and here I get the impression I'm talking to salesmen (not trying to be rude, but it shouldn't be this time consuming to just get simple questions answered). If I need to restrict this battery to only being charged (off board) by low amperage/current limited supplies (unlike an alternator), then it's not something that will work in my application (ie: automotive).
Regarding line #2: If this battery goes into sleep mode at 12 volts, what is the cranking energy (Joules, V x I x t) available before it shuts down (and I assume no more cranking) if the battery is charged to the 14.6v example you mention? I can measure my starter current, so I know what my requirements are (as I mentioned in a previous post, my present 360 CA $29.95 lawnmower battery cranks my engine just fine).
I'm interested in your product, but I need some actual usable information.
Thank you.
Regarding line #2: If this battery goes into sleep mode at 12 volts, what is the cranking energy (Joules, V x I x t) available before it shuts down (and I assume no more cranking) if the battery is charged to the 14.6v example you mention? I can measure my starter current, so I know what my requirements are (as I mentioned in a previous post, my present 360 CA $29.95 lawnmower battery cranks my engine just fine).
I'm interested in your product, but I need some actual usable information.
Thank you.
I try to answer questions posed on forums in what are easily digestible statements that I know will not confuse the other readers of my posts if they might be interested in this type of product. If I talk in Joules, 1C charge rates and other "tech speak" it just makes the product seem confusing. My objective is to so show the ease of use and benefits of lithium. I clearly stated you can use the low-output Alternator that you have in your Car, I expressed the safety and concerns of using an aftermarket Lead/Acid Battery on a Lithium Battery which can cause Thermal Runaway, and the battery to swell and potential go into Thermal Runaway. I expressed the Charging rates. I also answered questions in depth that you had on the batteries Chemical make-up, voltage regulation and more.... so I'm a bit confused as to you stating you are talking to a salesman when my answers have NOT been trying to push sales but rather speaking facts.
My theory is "keep it simple". As I said , I have re-read your posts and seen you have said your "360 Cranking Amp Lawnmower Battery" is starting your car fine.... yet you are asking me technical questions that regard specific Cranking Energy at two points of our Lithium Batteries state of charge (which I will explain why it is irrelevant in the paragraph below). But fact is I could make this extremely simple, without confusion, without Joules and other Engineering Speak or specs and and say.... "If you are using the Lawnmower Battery successfully , then this equivalent Antigravity Battery Model "xx" will do it better and save a lot of weight". I will be able to say this because you are already giving me a baseline of what has successfully in your Car, but more importantly because I know what works in V8 Motors at certain Horsepower Ratings. In reality there is only a few options of the battery that will cover your specific application. So I do not need to say our battery has "802 Cranking amps at 14.6v." or throw out a bunch of Tech Specs. As I said, "keep this is simple", Lithium is much more powerful than Lead/Acid, so if I say a specific model will start your car then it will do it exceptionally well from a Full Charge down to its Low-Voltage Cut-Off. If I tell you a particular model has 703 Cranking Amps at 14.6v, its irrelevant except to show you how much I know about batteries. We don't want YOU the Customer thinking you know what will work for your Vehicle based on these Testing numbers, because the testing numbers are just a ball park figures since each size Motor and Certain conditions will draw different current. We have the experience, we are the professionals, we have been doing this for 10 years successfully. We are the ones working with the professional race teams at every level of ALL Motorsports. We are the ones that understand what will damage the product, and what is the best product for your use.. So while I'm not trying to insult you, I'm trying to impress that trying to get really technical will not get you the product you need, my expertise will.
As far as your second question about the the Cranking Power/Energy at the high and low voltage points... I'm sorry but this is why I'm getting a bit confused, not because it's an Engineering type question, but because it does not accurately reflect Real-World Vehicle Starting needs. Let me explain.... A Cranking Amp Test is not relevant after a Full Charge like you asked about, because all Batteries (Lead or Lithium) will settle back to their resting voltage usually within a few hours or overnight after charging, so testing after a full charge would be a false and high number, and the average Customer is starting their Car the next morning, which is at RESTING voltage almost 2v lower. That is where we test our Batteries, at RESTING voltage which is the accurate testing point, then we also have tested at the Low-Voltage Cut-Off point. The reason I don't care about a Cranking Number is because a "number" does not start your vehicle, and that discharge current varies on each start attempt... so numbers don't mean so much. The real-world test is my concern... and the number is just a ball park figure. The real-world and ice-box testing has been done for the Customer by Antigravity.... we are the Professional here. If we say a battery will work for a Car, then it will work, period. You knowing it if provides exactly 602 Amps at its low-voltage point, or 463 Amps at is low discharge point will not make ANY difference because both those currents will start your V8 500 HP Motor because WE know this from Testing.
So I hope you don't feel I am being condescending, I am not trying to be. I'm trying to show that cranking number and specs do NOT tell the full story. The first year doing this in 2010 we had the "Engineers" specing the wiring gauge and interconnectors for the Battery cells.... Yep the "Engineers" know everything.... NOPE... they BLEW IT. They spec'd per "the book" and current handling of certain interconnectors, and they tested in labs and cold rooms.... pretty smart right? Nope, they just didn't understand that the REAL-WORLD needs to consider, how that 5% of Customers beat the hell out of stuff, they use the battery for other uses, they crank the battery for 30 seconds at a time, they didn't understand that each motor can draw different currents in Race Cars due to how tight the motor is built, or type of Starter Motor and many other considerations. That was the LAST time I allowed an "Engineer" to spec certain aspects of our batteries. So that is why you see me not really caring about cranking amp numbers and such because I know the correct Ah and Power required for Starting in every situation through my years of experience actually building Batteries.
Last edited by Antigravity; 06-30-2019 at 12:16 PM.
07-18-2019, 10:38 PM
#50
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,347
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
Sorry you feel you are not getting the information you need. I guess I am missing something because I just reviewed your questions and my previous answers and each time I've answered them in depth, and clearly from my perspective. So I think there is some miscommunication.
I try to answer questions posed on forums in what are easily digestible statements that I know will not confuse the other readers of my posts if they might be interested in this type of product. If I talk in Joules, 1C charge rates and other "tech speak" it just makes the product seem confusing. My objective is to so show the ease of use and benefits of lithium. I clearly stated you can use the low-output Alternator that you have in your Car, I expressed the safety and concerns of using an aftermarket Lead/Acid Battery on a Lithium Battery which can cause Thermal Runaway, and the battery to swell and potential go into Thermal Runaway. I expressed the Charging rates. I also answered questions in depth that you had on the batteries Chemical make-up, voltage regulation and more.... so I'm a bit confused as to you stating you are talking to a salesman when my answers have NOT been trying to push sales but rather speaking facts.
My theory is "keep it simple". As I said , I have re-read your posts and seen you have said your "360 Cranking Amp Lawnmower Battery" is starting your car fine.... yet you are asking me technical questions that regard specific Cranking Energy at two points of our Lithium Batteries state of charge (which I will explain why it is irrelevant in the paragraph below). But fact is I could make this extremely simple, without confusion, without Joules and other Engineering Speak or specs and and say.... "If you are using the Lawnmower Battery successfully , then this equivalent Antigravity Battery Model "xx" will do it better and save a lot of weight". I will be able to say this because you are already giving me a baseline of what has successfully in your Car, but more importantly because I know what works in V8 Motors at certain Horsepower Ratings. In reality there is only a few options of the battery that will cover your specific application. So I do not need to say our battery has "802 Cranking amps at 14.6v." or throw out a bunch of Tech Specs. As I said, "keep this is simple", Lithium is much more powerful than Lead/Acid, so if I say a specific model will start your car then it will do it exceptionally well from a Full Charge down to its Low-Voltage Cut-Off. If I tell you a particular model has 703 Cranking Amps at 14.6v, its irrelevant except to show you how much I know about batteries. We don't want YOU the Customer thinking you know what will work for your Vehicle based on these Testing numbers, because the testing numbers are just a ball park figures since each size Motor and Certain conditions will draw different current. We have the experience, we are the professionals, we have been doing this for 10 years successfully. We are the ones working with the professional race teams at every level of ALL Motorsports. We are the ones that understand what will damage the product, and what is the best product for your use.. So while I'm not trying to insult you, I'm trying to impress that trying to get really technical will not get you the product you need, my expertise will.
As far as your second question about the the Cranking Power/Energy at the high and low voltage points... I'm sorry but this is why I'm getting a bit confused, not because it's an Engineering type question, but because it does not accurately reflect Real-World Vehicle Starting needs. Let me explain.... A Cranking Amp Test is not relevant after a Full Charge like you asked about, because all Batteries (Lead or Lithium) will settle back to their resting voltage usually within a few hours or overnight after charging, so testing after a full charge would be a false and high number, and the average Customer is starting their Car the next morning, which is at RESTING voltage almost 2v lower. That is where we test our Batteries, at RESTING voltage which is the accurate testing point, then we also have tested at the Low-Voltage Cut-Off point. The reason I don't care about a Cranking Number is because a "number" does not start your vehicle, and that discharge current varies on each start attempt... so numbers don't mean so much. The real-world test is my concern... and the number is just a ball park figure. The real-world and ice-box testing has been done for the Customer by Antigravity.... we are the Professional here. If we say a battery will work for a Car, then it will work, period. You knowing it if provides exactly 602 Amps at its low-voltage point, or 463 Amps at is low discharge point will not make ANY difference because both those currents will start your V8 500 HP Motor because WE know this from Testing.
So I hope you don't feel I am being condescending, I am not trying to be. I'm trying to show that cranking number and specs do NOT tell the full story. The first year doing this in 2010 we had the "Engineers" specing the wiring gauge and interconnectors for the Battery cells.... Yep the "Engineers" know everything.... NOPE... they BLEW IT. They spec'd per "the book" and current handling of certain interconnectors, and they tested in labs and cold rooms.... pretty smart right? Nope, they just didn't understand that the REAL-WORLD needs to consider, how that 5% of Customers beat the hell out of stuff, they use the battery for other uses, they crank the battery for 30 seconds at a time, they didn't understand that each motor can draw different currents in Race Cars due to how tight the motor is built, or type of Starter Motor and many other considerations. That was the LAST time I allowed an "Engineer" to spec certain aspects of our batteries. So that is why you see me not really caring about cranking amp numbers and such because I know the correct Ah and Power required for Starting in every situation through my years of experience actually building Batteries.
I try to answer questions posed on forums in what are easily digestible statements that I know will not confuse the other readers of my posts if they might be interested in this type of product. If I talk in Joules, 1C charge rates and other "tech speak" it just makes the product seem confusing. My objective is to so show the ease of use and benefits of lithium. I clearly stated you can use the low-output Alternator that you have in your Car, I expressed the safety and concerns of using an aftermarket Lead/Acid Battery on a Lithium Battery which can cause Thermal Runaway, and the battery to swell and potential go into Thermal Runaway. I expressed the Charging rates. I also answered questions in depth that you had on the batteries Chemical make-up, voltage regulation and more.... so I'm a bit confused as to you stating you are talking to a salesman when my answers have NOT been trying to push sales but rather speaking facts.
My theory is "keep it simple". As I said , I have re-read your posts and seen you have said your "360 Cranking Amp Lawnmower Battery" is starting your car fine.... yet you are asking me technical questions that regard specific Cranking Energy at two points of our Lithium Batteries state of charge (which I will explain why it is irrelevant in the paragraph below). But fact is I could make this extremely simple, without confusion, without Joules and other Engineering Speak or specs and and say.... "If you are using the Lawnmower Battery successfully , then this equivalent Antigravity Battery Model "xx" will do it better and save a lot of weight". I will be able to say this because you are already giving me a baseline of what has successfully in your Car, but more importantly because I know what works in V8 Motors at certain Horsepower Ratings. In reality there is only a few options of the battery that will cover your specific application. So I do not need to say our battery has "802 Cranking amps at 14.6v." or throw out a bunch of Tech Specs. As I said, "keep this is simple", Lithium is much more powerful than Lead/Acid, so if I say a specific model will start your car then it will do it exceptionally well from a Full Charge down to its Low-Voltage Cut-Off. If I tell you a particular model has 703 Cranking Amps at 14.6v, its irrelevant except to show you how much I know about batteries. We don't want YOU the Customer thinking you know what will work for your Vehicle based on these Testing numbers, because the testing numbers are just a ball park figures since each size Motor and Certain conditions will draw different current. We have the experience, we are the professionals, we have been doing this for 10 years successfully. We are the ones working with the professional race teams at every level of ALL Motorsports. We are the ones that understand what will damage the product, and what is the best product for your use.. So while I'm not trying to insult you, I'm trying to impress that trying to get really technical will not get you the product you need, my expertise will.
As far as your second question about the the Cranking Power/Energy at the high and low voltage points... I'm sorry but this is why I'm getting a bit confused, not because it's an Engineering type question, but because it does not accurately reflect Real-World Vehicle Starting needs. Let me explain.... A Cranking Amp Test is not relevant after a Full Charge like you asked about, because all Batteries (Lead or Lithium) will settle back to their resting voltage usually within a few hours or overnight after charging, so testing after a full charge would be a false and high number, and the average Customer is starting their Car the next morning, which is at RESTING voltage almost 2v lower. That is where we test our Batteries, at RESTING voltage which is the accurate testing point, then we also have tested at the Low-Voltage Cut-Off point. The reason I don't care about a Cranking Number is because a "number" does not start your vehicle, and that discharge current varies on each start attempt... so numbers don't mean so much. The real-world test is my concern... and the number is just a ball park figure. The real-world and ice-box testing has been done for the Customer by Antigravity.... we are the Professional here. If we say a battery will work for a Car, then it will work, period. You knowing it if provides exactly 602 Amps at its low-voltage point, or 463 Amps at is low discharge point will not make ANY difference because both those currents will start your V8 500 HP Motor because WE know this from Testing.
So I hope you don't feel I am being condescending, I am not trying to be. I'm trying to show that cranking number and specs do NOT tell the full story. The first year doing this in 2010 we had the "Engineers" specing the wiring gauge and interconnectors for the Battery cells.... Yep the "Engineers" know everything.... NOPE... they BLEW IT. They spec'd per "the book" and current handling of certain interconnectors, and they tested in labs and cold rooms.... pretty smart right? Nope, they just didn't understand that the REAL-WORLD needs to consider, how that 5% of Customers beat the hell out of stuff, they use the battery for other uses, they crank the battery for 30 seconds at a time, they didn't understand that each motor can draw different currents in Race Cars due to how tight the motor is built, or type of Starter Motor and many other considerations. That was the LAST time I allowed an "Engineer" to spec certain aspects of our batteries. So that is why you see me not really caring about cranking amp numbers and such because I know the correct Ah and Power required for Starting in every situation through my years of experience actually building Batteries.
Normally I would look elsewhere at this point, but given that you're a sponsor/advertiser here I feel an obligation to bend my rule a bit. With that, how about a simple answer to a simple question? As I stated before, I have a 427 big block engine, 10:1 compression ratio, 480 hp, (equipped with a gear reduction starter and a 40 amp alternator, 14.4v setpoint) in my car. It's my street/track car (road course tracks) with minimal electronics parasitic current drain. Will your ATX-20 Restart 680 CA battery work well in my car and in this application? My current battery is 16#, and I believe the ATX-20 is 4#. I'm willing to spend some money for vehicle weight loss, but not at the expense of poor reliability at the track or everyday usage.
Thank you.
Mike
07-19-2019, 12:15 AM
#51
Burning Brakes
what about this in the audio realm? I have a C6 with a very nice audio build and is used as a demo vehicle for an audio distributor at big car shows and I help coordinate our North American team. There are quite a few demands on batteries in our neck of the woods. when at shows doing demos the car is plugged into a 80A power supply so you never have to start it. We've used all kinds of batteries over the years and never had issues as long as you use an intelligent power supply...like Stinger or Kinetik and the like. Do you see any issue here or have any knowledge there? ...Or interest in the application?
-john
-john
07-19-2019, 02:19 PM
#52
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
what about this in the audio realm? I have a C6 with a very nice audio build and is used as a demo vehicle for an audio distributor at big car shows and I help coordinate our North American team. There are quite a few demands on batteries in our neck of the woods. when at shows doing demos the car is plugged into a 80A power supply so you never have to start it. We've used all kinds of batteries over the years and never had issues as long as you use an intelligent power supply...like Stinger or Kinetik and the like. Do you see any issue here or have any knowledge there? ...Or interest in the application?
-john
-john
We are working on Audio Batteries... but they are a different Animal being for larger systems they require higher amp hours than our current "Starter Batteries" you see me speaking about. These Starter Batteries have a very good ability to provide the power needed, but they are lower on Amp Hours that a Car Audio system needs. So we are looking in the 60Ah to 100 Ah range for Audio. So these batteries are more for Performance Cars, and our next designs will cover those who want the Audio features which don't need our Built-In Jump STarting feature...
07-19-2019, 02:29 PM
#53
Burning Brakes
thanks! I only use one battery so I've used Optima and Kinetik and Stinger in these situations before. So it will also be a starting battery...but yes, need the extra demand for audio type draw. If you need a test bed, I can find some people. I work with the Team for Focal, Mosconi, and Illusion Audio.
07-19-2019, 02:41 PM
#54
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Normally I would look elsewhere at this point, but given that you're a sponsor/advertiser here I feel an obligation to bend my rule a bit. With that, how about a simple answer to a simple question? As I stated before, I have a 427 big block engine, 10:1 compression ratio, 480 hp, (equipped with a gear reduction starter and a 40 amp alternator, 14.4v setpoint) in my car. It's my street/track car (road course tracks) with minimal electronics parasitic current drain. Will your ATX-20 Restart 680 CA battery work well in my car and in this application? My current battery is 16#, and I believe the ATX-20 is 4#. I'm willing to spend some money for vehicle weight loss, but not at the expense of poor reliability at the track or everyday usage.
Thank you.
Mike
Thank you.
Mike
If you want to leave a deposit for the battery you can try the ATX20 and do as you will with it for 3 months.... if it doesn't work out for you then return it for a full refund. We'll consider you a Tester. We also make an ATX20-HD and ATX30-HD Modles that does have 15Ah and 24Ah. Those are more what I would recommend in your application... but we also don't put the RE-START feature on these HD models it since it more Race oriented and has a lower Low-Voltage-Cutoff point for more useable capacity... but they still have all the protections on the BMS.
We have the SAE Automotive Terminal Adapters that would bolt to both of these...
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...-oem/atx20-hd/
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...tive/atx30-hd/
But you can test anyone you want and I'll offer a refund if it doesn't work...
07-21-2019, 10:02 PM
#55
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,347
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
Mike I would not recommend this battery. You have a 500 Hp 427ci Motor.... I'm sure the battery could turn over the motor easy since you have starter reduction gearing, but over the long run I don't feel it has enough over-head in Amp Hour Capacity. Inside that ATX20 battery is a 10Ah Lithium Battery. I don't like recommending anything less than a 15Ah for any Street Use regardless of what a Customer says. I don't want any call backs on any recommendation I give because Street does have different requirements and situations than a race Car. .
If you want to leave a deposit for the battery you can try the ATX20 and do as you will with it for 3 months.... if it doesn't work out for you then return it for a full refund. We'll consider you a Tester. We also make an ATX20-HD and ATX30-HD Modles that does have 15Ah and 24Ah. Those are more what I would recommend in your application... but we also don't put the RE-START feature on these HD models it since it more Race oriented and has a lower Low-Voltage-Cutoff point for more useable capacity... but they still have all the protections on the BMS.
We have the SAE Automotive Terminal Adapters that would bolt to both of these...
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...-oem/atx20-hd/
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...tive/atx30-hd/
But you can test anyone you want and I'll offer a refund if it doesn't work...
If you want to leave a deposit for the battery you can try the ATX20 and do as you will with it for 3 months.... if it doesn't work out for you then return it for a full refund. We'll consider you a Tester. We also make an ATX20-HD and ATX30-HD Modles that does have 15Ah and 24Ah. Those are more what I would recommend in your application... but we also don't put the RE-START feature on these HD models it since it more Race oriented and has a lower Low-Voltage-Cutoff point for more useable capacity... but they still have all the protections on the BMS.
We have the SAE Automotive Terminal Adapters that would bolt to both of these...
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...-oem/atx20-hd/
https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...tive/atx30-hd/
But you can test anyone you want and I'll offer a refund if it doesn't work...
I looked at the hd models you mentioned above, and disregarding the specs for the moment, I gotta confess my budget can't go that high. My sole reason for these type batteries is for the weight reduction, and the $/# of weight reduction goes up significantly with those models.
The ATX-20-RS is in the $/# reduction range I can justify, and would like to give that model a try if you think it has the possibility of working for my application. I'm open to some further conversation via PM if that is convenient.
Thanks,
Mike
07-22-2019, 11:17 PM
#56
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Well, I'll admit you've got my full attention.
I looked at the hd models you mentioned above, and disregarding the specs for the moment, I gotta confess my budget can't go that high. My sole reason for these type batteries is for the weight reduction, and the $/# of weight reduction goes up significantly with those models.
The ATX-20-RS is in the $/# reduction range I can justify, and would like to give that model a try if you think it has the possibility of working for my application. I'm open to some further conversation via PM if that is convenient.
Thanks,
Mike
I looked at the hd models you mentioned above, and disregarding the specs for the moment, I gotta confess my budget can't go that high. My sole reason for these type batteries is for the weight reduction, and the $/# of weight reduction goes up significantly with those models.
The ATX-20-RS is in the $/# reduction range I can justify, and would like to give that model a try if you think it has the possibility of working for my application. I'm open to some further conversation via PM if that is convenient.
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by Antigravity; 07-23-2019 at 03:12 PM.
07-23-2019, 12:16 PM
#57
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Posts: 18,347
Received 767 Likes
on
549 Posts
I can't really commit to that and climaing its will work. I just don't know, and don't like to make claims that are not slam dunks. But we have a few Mustang Guys with GT350s testing the ATX20HD... So far so good, and I'll check back with them in a few weeks. One is 80% track and he just went to COTA this weekend... the other is daily driver. Both doing fine so far.
.
08-12-2019, 08:23 PM
#60
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Being the Vettes often have high parasitic draws we recommend the 40ah version... but if you do track mostly you can do a 30Ah but it won't have as much capacity as the 40Ah... The power on any of the sizes will rip start the Vette motor.. but what you have to consider mostly i is the Amp Hours since that is the Capacity....
Link to the C7 Drop in fit Batttery Size is here... https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...tive/ag-h6-rs/
We are actually making the Group 75/78 Size , and the T5/Group96r Size in the next month so we will have drop ins for the older Vettes also.