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I have yet to receive my C8 but I purchased a floor jack. The front of the floor jack is 4" high and with the lift pucks installed I will need 4 1/2 " of clearnace to get the floor jack under the C8. I assume there is plenty of room for this. Am I correct? Thanks
That jack ramps up quite a bit behind the lift pad. I would be very careful with that. I have a long reach, low profile jack that is much lower behind the jack pad. Jack pad is 2.7" high when jack is fully down.
Last edited by Driver_WT; Feb 23, 2021 at 07:32 PM.
That jack ramps up quite a bit behind the lift pad. I would be very careful with that. I have a long reach, low profile jack that is much lower behind the jack pad. Jack pad is 2.7" high when jack is fully down.
Although I don't have a C8 (yet) I have used this product with many of my previous vehicles including a BMW, a Factory Five Cobra replica, and my current C6 Grand Sport.
This is a small 5 pound ramp that fits under any car . . . it lifts car 3 inches only. Once you drive up on it you can fit almost any jack underneath. When lowering the car just make sure the ramps are put back under the tires before letting the vehicle all the way down
Thanks everyone !! Pucks are ordered, mobile1 picked up at Walmart and hitting harbor freight this week for the extended reach low pro jack, appreciate the help 👊
Short arm jacks can have issues, like hitting the frame or jack arm if you have side skirts like I do. They also have limited max height and much move in quite a bit to keep the jack saddle under the jack pad!
I bought a long arm jack (Harbor Freight as all of my 4) and to get a low min height number the jack saddle has essentially no lip. Doesn't have to move in much for the same lift as my short arm jack BUT must move in! For it's max lift must move in a lot! For that heavy (95lb) long reach jack I welded a metal saddle lip to bring it up to ~5/8 inches. Helps pull it in as you lift! Works well with my 1 inch high jack pads.
When I used my short arm jack to remove a wheel I used my 2 inch high jack pad as I thought the jack arm of frame might hit my 5VM side skirts. Would have been OK with 1 inch high jack pads!
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Originally Posted by Driver_WT
That jack ramps up quite a bit behind the lift pad. I would be very careful with that. I have a long reach, low profile jack that is much lower behind the jack pad. Jack pad is 2.7" high when jack is fully down.
I agree - I would be much more comfortable with a jack that has a longer, more gently sloped reach to it. Harbor Freight carries some good floor jacks that work well and give plenty of clearance.
Thanks everyone !! Pucks are ordered, mobile1 picked up at Walmart and hitting harbor freight this week for the extended reach low pro jack, appreciate the help 👊
Which Walmart did you find Mobil 1 ESP at? The ones around Vegas only have the Euro formula which won't work.
I bought this long reach/ low profile Harbor Freight jack 5-6 years ago and has worked great for Corvettes and my other vehicles. I particularly like the foot pedal for use in tight areas where jack handle clearance is an issue. I paid a little over a $100.00 then.
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For what it's worth that may be the "right size" for general use. As I note and repeated pic, the short arm race jack I have is fine for removing a wheel where it only has to lift ~1 inch. It's light but only has a 10-inch Lift Arm and limited lift height. My best all-around jack has a 15-inch lift arm (note they don't specify lift arm size, suggest bringing a ruler.) it has a high enough lift for most applications and is a reasonable weight. All my 4 jacks are from Harbor Freight.
Bought the long arm. long reach jack most recently. It's heavy, 95 lbs. I found it was so heavy it was not "moving in" as I was jacking the car. The saddle is essentially flat and was slipping off my jack pad. Had to look after every pump and try to "push in." Wound up modifying the saddle welding a 5/8-inch lip that works on my 1" high jack pad. Frankly it's so heavy I only use occasionally.
Jerry, I've used this jack probably over 50-60 times over the years on a variety of vehicles with no indication of the condition below that concerns you. I agree it is heavy at 95lbs, but rolls easily and I typically never have to lift it.
Originally Posted by JerryU
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For what it's worth that may be the "right size" for general use. As I note and repeated pic, the short arm race jack I have is fine for removing a wheel where it only has to lift ~1 inch. It's light but only has a 10-inch Lift Arm and limited lift height. My best all-around jack has a 15-inch lift arm (note they don't specify lift arm size, suggest bringing a ruler.) it has a high enough lift for most applications and is a reasonable weight. All my 4 jacks are from Harbor Freight.
Bought the long arm. long reach jack most recently. It's heavy, 95 lbs. I found it was so heavy it was not "moving in" as I was jacking the car. The saddle is essentially flat and was slipping off my jack pad. Had to look after every pump and try to "push in." Wound up modifying the saddle welding a 5/8-inch lip that works on my 1" high jack pad. Frankly it's so heavy I only use occasionally.
Jerry, I've used this jack probably over 50-60 times over the years on a variety of vehicles with no indication of the condition below that concerns you. I agree it is heavy at 95lbs, but rolls easily and I typically never have to lift it.
I had watched as I lifted and the jack was not moving into the car unless I tried to push as I lifted. Had the casters properly positioned.
I used it when I added my side skirts as I had to lift high enough to put the wheels on stanchions.
That's what I like about my 1 inch high aluminum jack pads they fit tightly in the GM Oval Slots.
With the 5/8 height I welded on that flat saddle the jack pad assures the jack will move in (actually pulled in) and can't slip off.
Lifted high enough to drill the 6 rivet holes under the rocker panels to install the side skirts.
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Hydraulic Floor Jack Clearance
