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Got around to checking lugnut torque after 5700 miles. Only the wheel locks which were installed by the NCM staff were correct. Factory installed lugnuts were all less than 140 ft-lbs.
Its normal on aluminum wheels for the torque to back off. Aluminum wheels should be checked and retorqued at 100mi, 600mi and then every couple thousand.
I check them on every new car I purchase as well as the tire pressures. Many techs who do PDI don’t really follow the instructions for the specific vehicles. My wife’s new Grand Cherokee had the tire pressures set to 50 all around when the door jam sticker clearly states 33 front and 36 rear. Some of the lug nuts were over-torqued and many were way under-torqued. I checked them as soon as we got the vehicle home. We live < 10 mi from the dealer so these items weren’t due to driving excessive distance.
I check them on every new car I purchase as well as the tire pressures. Many techs who do PDI don’t really follow the instructions for the specific vehicles. My wife’s new Grand Cherokee had the tire pressures set to 50 all around when the door jam sticker clearly states 33 front and 36 rear. Some of the lug nuts were over-torqued and many were way under-torqued. I checked them as soon as we got the vehicle home. We live < 10 mi from the dealer so these items weren’t due to driving excessive distance.
It's generally a good idea to have a torque wrench of reasonable quality (not a Harbor Freight special) and a set of sockets. Technically you are supposed to re-torque the lugnuts after about 50 miles after every tire rotation or change. Few do it, but I have found lug nuts that were way too loose a few times, twice even one I could turn with my fingers. You could go back to the tire service after 50 miles or you can and should do it yourself. Its doable even for people without wrenching experience. Set the torque wrench to 140 lb-ft and just re-torque them in a star pattern (always jump one lugnut until you have hit all 5). It can't hurt, but it could save your life.
^^^^
Hmm, felt that subjective way when I assembled the 502/502 BB Chevy Crate motor from for my street rod 21 years ago. So although I had a HF Torque wrench bought a much more expensive Craftsman (when Sears Craftsman was considered a good source of tools, mostly what I own) to torque the heads, manifold etc.
But I have read a number of reports that say HF torque wrenches are fine and meet the allowed tolerances. Just watched a very good video comparing a $100 Harbor Freight Torque wrench accuracy with a $390 Snap-on. Snap-on are considered professional quality tools (Just expensive.) In multiple tests of both the Snap-on missed one torque level outside the allowed range and HF none! The HF was within the specified tolerance for all 4 torques tested. In a 10 time repeatability test the ICON was slightly better than Snap-on as well.
I use my 21 year old Craftsman to torque my C8 wheels. Probably still my old subjective feeling! I do keep both unloaded at their lowest setting when stored. That is important to maintain accuracy.
A while back there were some discussions here that multiple people recommended using beam torque wrench only, and not to use the click type, so I went ahead bought a beam torque wrench based on the online review/ratings. But after using a click type torque wrench borrowed from my son, I felt it was much easier to use than my beam type. Now all I see you guys talking about are the click type, making me wonder if I made the wrong decision in getting a beam type which is harder to use compare to the click type, and maybe I should just get a click type from HF as Jerry's comparison above shows that it's just as good...
A while back there were some discussions here that multiple people recommended using beam torque wrench only, and not to use the click type, so I went ahead bought a beam torque wrench based on the online review/ratings. But after using a click type torque wrench borrowed from my son, I felt it was much easier to use than my beam type. Now all I see you guys talking about are the click type, making me wonder if I made the wrong decision in getting a beam type which is harder to use compare to the click type, and maybe I should just get a click type from HF as Jerry's comparison above shows that it's just as good...
I would be very wary of using HF torque wrenches for critical work. I know a guy that cracked an aluminum oil pan using a HF torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Consider the possible consequences and subsequent expense of overtorqing that nut or bolt to save a few bucks. It's just not worth it.
That's the one I am about to use. I have some older beam type, but they seem to be missing. I have seen some fancy digital ones lately, they look pretty nice too.
I would be very wary of using HF torque wrenches for critical work. I know a guy that cracked an aluminum oil pan using a HF torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Consider the possible consequences and subsequent expense of overtorqing that nut or bolt to save a few bucks. It's just not worth it.
how freaking hard was he cranking on it?? at some point common sense says, "this seems like something is off" were talking 20-25 ft pounds....did he add a 0?
Check lugnut torque
I check them on every new car I purchase as well as the tire pressures. Many techs who do PDI don’t really follow the instructions for the specific vehicles. My wife’s new Grand Cherokee had the tire pressures set to 50 all around when the door jam sticker clearly states 33 front and 36 rear. Some of the lug nuts were over-torqued and many were way under-torqued. I checked them as soon as we got the vehicle home. We live < 10 mi from the dealer so these items weren’t due to driving excessive distance.
