This is just a variation on the other threads already here or linked to before. But I will be a bit more specific than some of the others re: the wiring which is a question I havent seen resolved in the way I did.

parts list:

red LEDs set of 8 (you can get other colors) $20
12v remote relay kit (to allow control via garage door opener buttons) $18
2) blue wiring T-taps (commonly available in packs at any parts store etc.)

2) blue shielded wiring crimp-on male terminals (again commonly available at parts stores etc.)

2) blue crimp on butt connectors (I used ones with heat shrink built in)

T15 screwdriver or driver bit

small zipties and 1 large ziptie

I started by bench testing the LED light strips and the remote relay setup before fooling with the car at all. Then I went ahead and programmed the car remote buttons to control the relay/lights before actually installing them. Note that you need to use 2 of the car's 3 garage door opener buttons to run this relay/light setup, one is on and one is off.

Next I jacked up the car and removed the driver rear wheel. Use the torx bit to remove the 3 screws there and pull back the plastic liner. You'll see a wiring plug and two fat black and red wires. These wires are constant power and ground and suitable IMO for tapping into for this very low draw circuit, and allows you to run the lights with the car/ignition/accessories off if you want.








I put a tap on each one. These are heavy gauge wires with thick insulation, so I "helped" the taps penetrate the insulation by using a razor knife to make a slice through the insulation before snapping the taps in place. The male crimp terminals go on the wires feeding the relay power. Common sense, red power wire on the car feeds to red wire on relay, black to black for ground.






Now the lights need installed in the car. There are 2 strings of 4 each, so I used 4 on the hatch and 4 down low around the engine. I ran both sets of wires to terminate on the driver side and run them down inside the cavity inside the fender toward all the wiring we just accessed.




I used a combination of electrical tape and zipties to route and hold the wires out of the way along existing wiring harnesses and frame rails on the car. I'm sure over time the electrical tape will need replaced due to heat, but this is just to get the lights in the car and working for a while to see if I like them or want to change it up.

Both sets of lights' wiring goes down to the relay and the 12v+ light wire goes to the white wire on the relay, ground to ground, both are crimped and insulated.








Ziptie it all up out of the way being sure to keep everything as far from the exhaust stuff as possible. Note that the black plastic assembly is a big fan motor and you want to keep wires, zipties etc. clear of the blades inside as well.

 

finished product pics in the dark, there's some glare that makes it up into the passenger area and I'll have to do some driving with it on and see if it bothers me or if I need to shade/cover some of the lights etc.

 

That looks amazing! Can it be wired to turn on just when the car is not driving? Seems like a total distraction when the car is moving, but would be cool for car shows or when the car is parked.

 

It's wired to get power anytime you push the button on the visor (or the separate remote that came with the relay kit, if you care to carry it) to turn it on...car running or not. I dont plan to use it while driving much, but I am curious as to whether the light output in the back is bothersome to the driver. Part of the question is because there are not one but two glass panes in the back for light to reflect off of.

 

I went on and got some more of the same LEDs and added more in the side vents and in the front bumper grille openings (I already have the hex grille insert screens). I just extended the engine bay light wiring out far enough for one LED in each side vent, then accessed the power relay's white and black wire and ran an extension wire under the driver side body plastic, above the driver front wheel plastic inner liner, then up inside the front bumper.

The lights look super bright in these pics but it's just the camera exposure. They are pretty subtle and not overwhelming at all as you can see with the pic that the car's headlights are on.

 

The engine bay lighting looks great - a job well done.

For the front fascia lighting, do you have any issues with LEOs questioning the use of red lights in the front end of the car (unless they are not on when driving the car)?

 

Nicely done

 

They're not hardwired to be on all the time the car is running...only if I activate the power relay via the visor garage door controls or the relay's own remote control. To be honest they are dim enough that I'm not sure they would be highly visible while driving in a city setting with other cars' headlights, street lights, signs etc. but I guess time will tell. I remember being relentlessly hounded 20 years ago when I was a teen with neon and those ice blue fog lights they used to sell (this was before bluish HIDs became common), but for the most part LEOs don't seem to give a **** about low level violations like that anymore, at least in my area. I've seen cars pass a cop in the middle of the night with no exterior lighting on at all and the cop doesnt flinch.

 

Thank you so much !

 

Great job. Good easy to access source of power! Looks great! Very good documentation.

 

So I’ve installed my LED’s and ran them under the rear cross frame members and there’s no issue with heat. I test connected them to the back up assist module but failed in making a solid connection when trying to make my permanent connect. The pics here are what it looks like. I’m thinking of using the OP power/ground source once I see how to get to it from the bay.
My kit works on Bluetooth and does every color, brightness, dimmer, flash, strobe and will sync to music
as well all from my phone.

 

what kit did you use. And is that plaque permanent mount? Where did you get it?

 

I looked up the info for Henry Ruggs III when he crashed his C8. It's really amazing the detail DreamWorks Motorsports did in creating the car from wrap to additional lighting. I contacted them about light power sourcing and after a long delay they did reach out to say they had not idea how the car was powered for lighting for the engine bay and other areas. That they had someone in the shop do it and he was out from the shop and it would be a while before they would have contact with him.

Very nice car that was destroyed in an instant. Anyway, I thought I'd share the video their shop has on YouTube. Personally I'd love to just add some accent lighting within the side intake vents to give a soft glow but I'm not capable of taking body parts apart. LOL

 

side intake vents...so like what I posted above lol?

 

Exactly! Prior to seeing yours I saw this video just being curious as to what a NFL player with a lucrative contract would have after seeing his car totaled. I stumbled upon the video and was pretty much amazed! I saw your lighting and was like this is possible and not has difficult as I may be thinking.
I’ve had my car since June 2020 and always envisioned the possibility but the biggest drawback with the C8 is power source. Everyone talks about it and where to find it. Hypntyz, your location by far is the most advantageous spot I’ve seen. Other locations mentioned have been the Backup Assist Module and even more tedious is the fuse box inside the cabin between the two seats behind the ‘waterfall’ which requires going in above the glass, tear out the headliner and getting behind the seats and the area of the waterfall. Lot of work and time consuming. A guy I know here did his that way or should I say a friend of his did it for him and it looked okay, but I was skeptical of having a non pro installer do it. He’s since sold his car back in July after having it since March 2020 and is looking forward to getting the Z06. Anyway, I applaud your ingenuity on coming up with this power source and lead.

The Henry Ruggs III Corvette done by Dreamworks was a pretty spectacular car with lighting. Shame it turned out the way it did with an act of stupidity but that’s another subject matter.

 

Shame? It was a tragedy, The 24-Year-old girl he hit died!

 

Well back on topic.
the wires to tap into are thick! I shaved them down to allow for contact and good connection which I did get. Powered up and my system won’t shut off. 🤷🏽
deleted the app and reinstalled it and same deal, lights constantly on and they’re stuck on purple. Can’t leave like this as it will drain the battery eventually. Plan to snip the ground away from connection and let it ride until later and warmer days come.
Can’t figure it out though as they worked perfectly hooked up to my jump pack a
few weeks back when this thread was hot!

Back to the drawing board but yes, that connection is always hot.

 

mark

 

Are you not using a control relay to switch them? I feel like you didnt read or fully understand what is supposed to happen here. If you just hook up the lights to the wires without a control relay of course they will stay on all the time.

 

Yeah I just tapped into the source thinking that my control module which gets its messaging from the app on the phone would make them do what they’re directed to do. I’m wondering if there is issue with the module or even the app itself.
When I connected them to my jump pack they have constant power and do as they should, so this power supply would be the same with a constant source.
Why I feel it’s the kit control module is because there is no functionality with the lights constantly on and no control over what they do by staying stuck on one color and when the install of the app to the phone it didn’t allow me to even select a light kit as before saying “no device detected@.
Your source and info is good on this for something to tap into for sure. I am curious what it’s for though, to be a constant. Just wondering….