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Probably something like this preapplied. I had the same come on my bolts to attach prop zinc on my boat. There is a red version that you do not want to use if you actually want to remove the bolt in the future.
Originally Posted by *C7*
Jerry, do you think those bolt holes are "wet" ?? I would not think they would be.
My thought on why they might supply the sealant material relates to head bolts that go into water jackets. It's a different sealant than standard Loctite. Loctite head-bolt and water-jacket sealantis a black anaerobic paste that is made for threaded fasteners, such as head bolts that penetrate into water or chemical jackets. It lubricates threads and ensures consistent torque during assembly, and it seals and locks bolts to prevent premature loosening.
Would think that water resistant would be different the DCT fluid resistant sealant.
I just had my free oil and trans filter changed last week. One of the techs that I spoke to (not the transmission guy) said they flush 3 times for the process. Was this accurate or was he blow'n smoke?
It took ~10 minutes and all Tech and I did was watch the GM Service Computer connected via WiFi to Tech's PC and my C8 with engine running via OBD port. Heard some things happening. Was it the shift forks moving or just the 14 valves Andy recently posted were in the DCT (that may not have been all of them.) Don't know?
First, I said "Probably something like" not definitely is what was used.
Second, "sealant is a black anaerobic paste" is inaccurate as the 2 products are in fact Blue and red. I do not know what the black stuff is. I've onluy used the red and blue.
^^^
My thought was DCT fluid resistant would be different and why they might supply.
You're right lots of products.
I bought Loctite in stick form some years ago. Applies like Chapstick! When they introduced was discounted BUT now not so cheap. I use Thread Locker in my business and have purchased another stick. Cost almost as much as the kit! Much easier to use than liquid!
Here is the procedure from the 2020 Service Manual. Are the bolts in the red the ones being discussed? It appears, from the images, that the front two bolts holes are outside of the casting that houses the filter, and will be "dry". I would probably remove the cover to see what happened. Seems to me if your torque wrench was accurate, its not likely that anything stripped (I know about the affect of oil on torque readings, but still...). Also, it almost looks like it might be possible to put a nut on the other side of the where the bolt holes are, at least in the front two. Looks like that area is exposed.
^^^
My thought was DCT fluid resistant would be different and why they might supply.
The reason the thread locker is pre-applied to the fasteners is it is cheaper in the long run.
During production it is cheaper to have the fasteners thread locker pre-applied than to have the tech take the time to prep the threads and apply the thread locker in a controlled manner.
During servicing it is cheaper to discard the fasteners and use fasteners with thread locker pre-applied than to pay the tech to clean the threads and apply the thread locker. Plus it removes any doubt of the fastener history.
The bolts are aluminum and come with the filter replacement kit for a reason: "The new filter comes with 4 new aluminum bolts, with blue thread sealer on them. Just make sure you get all the thread sealing compound off the old bolts and clean them up good before hand. Be gentle, those bolts are soft aluminum too."
The other reason is they come with that blue thread sealer "probably" because there is DCT fluid above them. Like cylinder head bolts that go into water jackets needing a sealer it's probably a sealer that is compatible with the DCT fluid.
SIDEBAR
PS: Reminded my modified '67 Corvair. Oil temp was an issue. Would go past 300 F when racing. Installed a finned aluminum pan (and valve covers.) Oil pan also had tapered pin fins inside where they did not hit the spinning crack! Stripped several threads. Used a Helicoil repair kit and installed in all pan holes. Remember drilling and tapping while on my back!
Here's a Factory GM DCT filter kit for the C8.... Here are the Factory GM bolts that come with red locktite on them which provides more permanence..... The bolts in question.....notice something...... They are NOT aluminum!!!
Where do you get this crap from?
The bolts are aluminum and come with the filter replacement kit for a reason: "The new filter comes with 4 new aluminum bolts, with blue thread sealer on them. Just make sure you get all the thread sealing compound off the old bolts and clean them up good before hand. Be gentle, those bolts are soft aluminum too."
The other reason is they come with that blue thread sealer "probably" because there is DCT fluid above them. Like cylinder head bolts that go into water jackets needing a sealer it's probably a sealer that is compatible with the DCT fluid.
SIDEBAR
PS: Reminded my modified '67 Corvair. Oil temp was an issue. Would go past 300 F when racing. Installed a finned aluminum pan (and valve covers.) Oil pan also had tapered pin fins inside where they did not hit the spinning crack! Stripped several threads. Used a Helicoil repair kit and installed in all pan holes. Remember drilling and tapping while on my back!
Here's a Factory GM DCT filter kit for the C8.... Here are the Factory GM bolts that come with red locktite on them which provides more permanence.....Also, notice..."Made in Germany" The bolts in question.....notice something...... They are NOT aluminum!!!
Where do you get this crap from?
Last edited by MAD Matt; Jun 27, 2022 at 11:58 AM.
^^^
My thought was DCT fluid resistant would be different and why they might supply.
You're right lots of products.
I bought Loctite in stick form some years ago. Applies like Chapstick! When they introduced was discounted BUT now not so cheap. I use Thread Locker in my business and have purchased another stick. Cost almost as much as the kit! Much easier to use than liquid!
' didn't know of stick form. Thanks. Been using liquid for so long, application is NBD for me. Need to not use so much and no drips.
Red and Blue are the only thread lockers, Silver and Bronze are anti size (I use a different product for that), white is sealant (I use a different product for that too).
I have a new filter I will be replacing sometime in the near future. I'll have to make sure to take special care with it. Also I was going to say that these things are not aluminum.
If the bolts are steel then I stand by my post #5.
It is very unlikely you snapped the bolts.
Good call....
I'd do the same. Order 4 new bolts before proceeding as the bolts do appear to be TTY (can't confirm) but more than likely being they come in the kit. Start from square one and retrace your footsteps. Some times you need to step back, before you can move forward.
Good call....
I'd do the same. Order 4 new bolts before proceeding as the bolts do appear to be TTY (can't confirm) but more than likely being they come in the kit. Start from square one and retrace your footsteps. Some times you need to step back, before you can move forward.
Personally, I'd feel comfortable reusing the bolts if they appear to be in good shape. They aren't going to be yielded at 53 in-lb in aluminum threads. I'd just clean up the threads and use thread locking compound.
They likely come in the kit so the tech doesn't have to spend his time cleaning the threads and applying thread locking compound.
^^^^
Yep agree a steel bolt that size will not yield at 53 inch-lbs if made the softest steel! But the bolts come with the filter in a kit along with an "O" ring.
Funny the source I quoted that said aluminum bolts and Blue Thread Sealer (frankly did not look to see what color it was Tech used on mine) had your post within his where you state the internal Threads requiring chasing. His post started "He didn't have thread chasers.." It was from another forum so won't post URL but he is from Canada and it gets cold there so perhaps why the blue thread sealer comment!
Is the filter housing removable from the transmission? Perhaps worst case scenario can be removed and repaired or replaced?
I saw a video (Chevy Dude maybe?) that said if you mar or gouge/screw up the filter housing it'd require a new tranny. But looking at your pics it does seem like it's removable.
Here are the Factory GM bolts that come with red locktite on them which provides more permanence.....Also, notice..."Made in Germany"
The bolts in question.....notice something......
They are NOT aluminum!!!
Where do you get this crap from?
Originally Posted by RKCRLR
If the bolts are steel then I stand by my post #5.
It is very unlikely you snapped the bolts.
If the bolts are steel (which they certainly seem to be), this could get expensive. The DCT casing is aluminum, so if anything stripped it's the threads in the housing. Helicoil will be the cheapest option, but make sure they're installed properly and absolutely straight.
