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Having had a battery decide to crap out on my C5 after 2 1/2 years, 300 miles from home, then on my C6, after my experience with my C5 replaced the battery at 3 years with a red top Optima battery which lasted for the remaining 6 years I owned the car. My C7 I replaced the battery at 3 years and the service writer came back to me and said the stock battery was only a 36 month battery. Later that 2nd battery died in my C7 but the dealership replaced it for free and that was on the car when I sold it in 2021. So I have come to the conclusion that to just replace the battery every 3 years is a cheap maintenance procedure just like changing my oil every year whether it needs it or not on my C8. BTW here in SW Florida if you're going to replace the battery make sure you get one labelled for "High Heat". Heat takes more wear on batteries than cold.
Funny I replaced my C6 OEM battery because it leaked. I picked a Yellow Top Optima since the car was Yellow!!
GM knew there was a leak potential AND the battery shelf in the engine compartment had an opening and Duct in the middle Just In Case. The Service Manual said it was there because there were wires right under the battery shelf and IF the battery leaked the duct was placed so battery acid would not harm the wires! Their words.
Funny I replaced my C6 OEM battery because it leaked. I picked a Yellow Top Optima since the car was Yellow!! GM knew there was a leak potential AND the battery shelf in the engine compartment had an opening and Duct in the middle Just In Case. The Service Manual said it was there because there were wires right under the battery shelf and IF the battery leaked the duct was placed so battery acid would not harm the wires! Their words.
Very interesting. That was a notorious problem on the C5 - and I had the problem on my 1998. As far as I know there was no such protective duct on the C5 - if there was - it must have been added in later model years. But the acid would leak right down on a computer module. Apparently I caught mine in time. I noticed the clear acid on the garage floor and immediately addressed it by removing the battery and flushing the area with water. And, I put the yellow top battery in my C5 when that happened.
I think ended up having all the C5 issues - the horn button failure, clutch hydraulic system failure, harmonic balancer failure. I pre-emptively circumvented the steering column lock issue.
What should be "identical" batteries in the same vehicles used in the same fashion can (and, all too often do) give widely varying results. If your car starts doing "weird" things that have no obvious mechanical explanation, then change the battery ASAP. Btw, happening to see the Optima pictured above, I used Optimas in everything with total success for years... until the company was sold. Indeed, the last two I bought were both bad brand new!!! You read that right. NO more for me. But, of course, you mileage may vary.
Having purchased many, many Optima battery's over the years for hot rods, Today they are the worst battery you can find.. They won't be available much longer.
Having purchased many, many Optima battery's over the years for hot rods, Today they are the worst battery you can find.. They won't be available much longer.
So - what do we want to get now? I do not want an 800 dollar antigrav battery.
Then replace it before hand.
Since you're going to replace it, you might as well get a good battery. The junk GM installs at Bowling Green, is just that.
Start looking for a deal on "ANTI-GRAVITY" batteries, w/ RESTART technology.
(They take a specific battery tender, so don't ruin it with a crappy tender that's NOT designed for lith-Ion batteries.
How long is the battery warranty good for? Has anyone had to change there battery in there C8? Mine is 2 1/2 years old now but am now starting to worry because my wife's Cadillac has had to have it replaced twice and both were under 3 years old.
A battery that matches or exceeds power requirements specified by the vehicle's manufacturer, vehicle's charging/starting system has been and is in good condition, battery trickle charged (battery tender) when stored, installed in a vehicle used/stored in a moderate climate (batteries will not last as long in HOT <especially> or cold climate) should last 5-6 years.
Good idea to start looking to replace at 5 years old. If you had to replace the battery in your wife's Cadillac twice and both were under 3 years old you've got something else going on other then just battery problems.
I base the above opinions on my owning/operating a chain of auto parts stores over 16 years and buying/selling/warranting literally thousands of batteries over the years. This is my recommendation for a replacement.
Having purchased many, many Optima battery's over the years for hot rods, Today they are the worst battery you can find.. They won't be available much longer.
Where do you get your information on this? Opinion?
Having had a battery decide to crap out on my C5 after 2 1/2 years, 300 miles from home, then on my C6, after my experience with my C5 replaced the battery at 3 years with a red top Optima battery which lasted for the remaining 6 years I owned the car. My C7 I replaced the battery at 3 years and the service writer came back to me and said the stock battery was only a 36 month battery. Later that 2nd battery died in my C7 but the dealership replaced it for free and that was on the car when I sold it in 2021. So I have come to the conclusion that to just replace the battery every 3 years is a cheap maintenance procedure just like changing my oil every year whether it needs it or not on my C8. BTW here in SW Florida if you're going to replace the battery make sure you get one labelled for "High Heat". Heat takes more wear on batteries than cold.
Hey Mike, Yes, I'm coming up on the 3year anniversary of the delivery of my '20 C8...might be a good idea to check that battery out...Oh btw this is Tony in Port Charlotte. We've talked before.
taking my 2021 HTC in tomorrow for a battery check. I have a weird problem as the ctek charger or my battery tender will not charge the battery now ? car is at 12.7 volts and will start.
Where do you get your information on this? Opinion?
Fact is Optima was a probate company making batteries in US. Believe the 1st I bought for my 23 year old street rod was made in Colorado. Then company sold to Johnson Controls who were big in battery business (sold a few years ago to a Canadian company.). They moved manufacturing to Mexico and quality deteriorated.
But Johnson Controls are a big, smart company and fixed the situation. I had built a hold down for my Street Rod that fit their round cell design. When I bought my 2nd battey years later, a Yellow Top, I called Jegs an Summitt and another who sell them. They told me problem had been resolved.
But reminded of the now not politically correct joke I’ll repeat about the famous engineer/architect. Designed the world’s best bridge, world’s highest building etc. Was he every called the woril’d best bridge builder NO but….. leave off the ending!
Bought a replacement ~5 years about and it was 9 years old. It worked fine but it is inside my Street Rod that only has electric doors. If if failed when at a show would be aPIA to get into the car or jump start so bought another just in case. Would I buy another for the street rod? Yep. Would I buy for my C8, nope! Too many other good AGM batteries that fit perfectly,
See, this is where I was asking for the source of the quality control deteriorating. I'm still seeing reviews that are quite positive for Optima. I, also, see the negative reviews. Just really curious how Optima won't be around for much longer. I have them in my 2003 C5 and my wife's Camaro and so far have never had a problem with them. Whether I put it on the C8 when the time comes is a question I'll have to answer hopefully in 4-5 years.
My 2016 C7 was connected to a Deltran Battery Tender when parked in my garage and the battery was still good when i traded it in back in May 2023 !! I started doing this with my first 1987 C4 and have had batteries last 10 years !!
New car technology can cause battery voltage loss more quickly that previous generations. I know my Porsche liked to eat batteries. All these blinky lights and stuff.
I always put her on a tender. Never had an issue after that. Just check that battery tender option box and mount it on the wall beside your new sweetheart.
Then replace it before hand.
Since you're going to replace it, you might as well get a good battery. The junk GM installs at Bowling Green, is just that.
Start looking for a deal on "ANTI-GRAVITY" batteries, w/ RESTART technology.
(They take a specific battery tender, so don't ruin it with a crappy tender that's NOT designed for lith-Ion batteries.
Plus you will need to change to an alternator designed to charge Lithium Ion.
modification is not required for anti-gravity battery
Originally Posted by speedlink
Plus you will need to change to an alternator designed to charge Lithium Ion.
This is copied from a post I made in another thread:
Since there was still some discussion about this, I contacted info@antigravitybatteries.com, using the contact link on their website, and asked the question. The answer is no, you will not need to modify you car charging system when you switch from lead acid to this particular lithium ion battery. I would not assume that this applies to all brands - it might - but I would not assume that based on this information alone. Here is the exact email exchange which includes my question and the answer provided:
Info Staff <info@antigravitybatteries.com>
Thu, Mar 9 at 7:20 PM
Hello,
Thank you for reaching out to us.
There is no need to modify your vehicle's charging system as the charging voltage is in the required range. Both lithium and lead-acid car batteries are charged in the 13.2 to 14.8 V range.
The voltage regulator has to be upgraded only in some older motorcycles.
Have a great day, and please let me know if you have any additional questions.
On Tue, Mar 7, 2023 at 4:23 AM wrote:I am considering the
Antigravity H6/Group-48 Lithium Car Battery
in the 60 amp size for my Corvette. Your literature, video, and FAQs says this battery will just drop in and charge just fine with the cars existing charging system. Some have asserted that since this battery has a different charging profile (the voltage for a given level of charge) differs between the lead acid and lithium ion batteries, that the charging system needs to be modified to provide the proper charging to the lithium battery. So, the specific question:
When the lithium ion battery is installed a car that was designed for a 12 volt lead acid battery for starting, will the charging system in the vehicle need to me modified, set for a different battery type, or anything like that?
New car technology can cause battery voltage loss more quickly that previous generations. I know my Porsche liked to eat batteries. All these blinky lights and stuff.
I always put her on a tender. Never had an issue after that. Just check that battery tender option box and mount it on the wall beside your new sweetheart.
It's fine to use a tender. Agree they do extend battery life.
BUT to set the record straight. Bought the GM equivalent for my 2014 Z51 and seldom used it, NIT needed as I drive 3 to 4 times a week and most drives 50 to 60 miles round trip to town. Didn't use it on my 2017 Grand Sport and don't on my C8. All have circuits that shut down all significant power in ~10 minutes. Want to test, open Frunk, Truck and put on interior light. Come back in ~10 minutes and all off!
Member tested the c8 which is even better than the C7s. He measured the parasitic current flow after 10 minutes and it was ~15 milliamps. For those math challenged that is like a 0.2 Watt Bulb!
Went on vacation last year for 3 weeks and did not plug use my CTEK. Had done the same often in the 8 years I had my C7s. (BTW, my reason is in NE SC we have lots of lighting in the hot summer. Where my charger is plugged in also have my sprinkler system control plugged in. It is on a surge protector. On my 3rd new control, fried by lighting power surges. Lots of other things voltage spikes have destroyed. Why risk even minor wiring issues with my C8, although very low probability NO NEED car starts fine.)
Your car your choice BUT the C7 and C8 Vettes have great very low current draw when parked!
The system wakes up periodically though, as discussed in that same thread, so it is not always that low. That said, I tend to think that the C8 parasitic draw is pretty low compared to what was expected even in the recent past.
I'm not making a case either way for the battery maintainer - but I keep mine connected at all times when its in the garage.
The getting to know your corvette guide recommends using it if not driven for more than a week.
It will not likely discharge to the point of not starting for much longer time.
The target state of charge when the engine is running is 80% - so its starts to decay from there.
Here.s a chart from the Service Manual showing days to discharge from 80% to 50%, though I do not the think the example battery is exactly what is in the C8. Still, it give an idea.
I believe that once a lead acid battery goes dead/flat, it is never the same again.
C8's get a new fresh battery at pretty much the end of the assembly line. From there it may go to a parking lot to wait for a car carrier,.....how many days/weeks?..... and once on a car carrier maybe iit goes another week in transit, to a car dealer where once again it may sit for a week or so. All this time, I don' t think the battery sees a battery maintainer. It seems very likely that during this time of the battery's life, it could go dead. If so, the battery won't last too long after the owner picks it up and keeps it on a maintainer. It's easy to imagine such a battery being unreasonably labelled a piece of junk for apparently prematurely failing.
BTW here in SW Florida if you're going to replace the battery make sure you get one labelled for "High Heat". Heat takes more wear on batteries than cold.
Funny I replaced my C6 OEM battery because it leaked. I picked a Yellow Top Optima since the car was Yellow!! 
