454 big block
#2
#3
Race Director
You would most likely be better served by posting this here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ale-wanted-57/
#4
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If this is a what’s it worth? Thread asking for input on pricing, I’ll move this to the general discussion area.
This is the parts for sale section, where you need an asking price to sell items.
Please do not sell in the general discussion area. Please do not list parts in the parts section that aren’t for sale yet, without prices.
This is the parts for sale section, where you need an asking price to sell items.
Please do not sell in the general discussion area. Please do not list parts in the parts section that aren’t for sale yet, without prices.
#5
Drifting
How many engines do you have? It’s difficult to tell from your pictures. Step back a bit and take separate photos of the engines. More light will help too. Take a picture of the front of each engine. As you face it look in front of the cylinder head for the pad on the block that has the numbers that identify the engine. Big block Chevy engines start with a T and a series of numbers followed by a two or three letter code that indicates what type of vehicle it originally came in. On the same pad to the right of the previous numbers is a partial VIN that shows the Chevy plant where the car was built. Quite often the pad will be blank as rebuilders deck the block and erase the numbers. If there are numbers on the pad and it has been painted you can use paint thinner to remove the paint. Don’t use anything abrasive as that can destroy the numbers stamped at the factory.
#6
1967 Pedal Car Champion
After the early '70s, the big blocks were relegated to trucks and large vehicles. I don't see any casting date prior to 1975 in your pics. The one pic of the rear flange with the casting number 361959 indicates a '73-'85 design. Also on the rear flange, opposite the casting number, there should be a casting date code.
Can you post pics of all blocks you have showing these two sets of numbers?
Pics of the pad stamps on the front of the blocks that Sullyman describes would be helpful too, but I think we're going to see that they are later blocks* than would have been originally set up for performance applications.
* In this case, the value is the bare block itself and not the intake, water pump, or exhaust manifolds. Those would be limited to scrap iron value. I suspect the heads would also fall into this category given the lightweight aluminum aftermarket performance heads that are readily available.
Can you post pics of all blocks you have showing these two sets of numbers?
Pics of the pad stamps on the front of the blocks that Sullyman describes would be helpful too, but I think we're going to see that they are later blocks* than would have been originally set up for performance applications.
* In this case, the value is the bare block itself and not the intake, water pump, or exhaust manifolds. Those would be limited to scrap iron value. I suspect the heads would also fall into this category given the lightweight aluminum aftermarket performance heads that are readily available.
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OMF (05-11-2024)
#7
Old Pro Solo Guy
Looks like late 70s truck blocks.
$3-500 a piece.
Nothing too special.
Bad heads, no special parts other than good steel cranks.
They built millions.
I paid $400 for a bare 4 bolt '80s Marine block. And $300 for a a forged steel crank.
If it has the big 8" diameter dampner on the front it should have a steel crank.
A four bolt block is worth a little more than a 2 bolt, it has very large hex plugs in the block by the oil filter.
Most buyers would want to know if it is still standard or how far it has been bored out, and you probably do not want to do that.
But I saw an original date water pump, so it could still be standard bore??? Maybe??
Try a drag race site, or facebook.
Here are the big threaded holes that indicate a 4 bolt main block above the oil filter.. (Usually have plugs in them.)
$3-500 a piece.
Nothing too special.
Bad heads, no special parts other than good steel cranks.
They built millions.
I paid $400 for a bare 4 bolt '80s Marine block. And $300 for a a forged steel crank.
If it has the big 8" diameter dampner on the front it should have a steel crank.
A four bolt block is worth a little more than a 2 bolt, it has very large hex plugs in the block by the oil filter.
Most buyers would want to know if it is still standard or how far it has been bored out, and you probably do not want to do that.
But I saw an original date water pump, so it could still be standard bore??? Maybe??
Try a drag race site, or facebook.
Here are the big threaded holes that indicate a 4 bolt main block above the oil filter.. (Usually have plugs in them.)
Last edited by leigh1322; 05-13-2024 at 01:50 PM.