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Anyone have aftermarket lug/lock nut sets on their C8? I've used Gorilla sets in the past for other cars such as this:
This would in theory fit the C8's 14x1.5mm thread size, but the Gorilla Automotive website won't confirm when I enter my C8 into their filtering mechanism as the disclaimer suggests. I'm also wondering what else is out there. Looking for something in black, preferably. I like having the key to act as an extension for the socket as well.
imo they won't deter theft and you have to keep up with tool for the rest of your life......and deal with it every time the wheels come off...life is too short for that...
That is exactly the set I just got from Summit Racing. They are much smaller than the acorn lug nut that I currently have on the car. With my aftermarket wheels the face of the wheel where the lug nuts goes onto is bare metal and the wheel is black, so you can see part of the bare metal, which looks like shxx with the black wheels. If you want them, PM me for a price.
imo they won't deter theft and you have to keep up with tool for the rest of your life......and deal with it every time the wheels come off...life is too short for that...
Good luck though....
In terms of convenience... My opinion from experience the socket for Gorilla acts like an extension and makes it easier to remove wheels for me. GM decided to use 22mm lug sizes from the factory which is NOT a common lug size and therefore I'm using a feather touch to avoid beating my wheels up with an impact 22mm every time I remove them because I don't have a 22mm deep regular or thin-wall socket. On my other cars, I've used the Gorilla key just like an extension over my shallow 19mm (supposed to use 3/4 or 13/16 but who actually has SAE sockets, lol). Never lost it, never forgot it when taking cars to the shop. I guess if someone is irresponsible enough to lose it or feels like going out to buy a thin wall 22mm they will use for literally no other vehicle in existence, then this wouldn't be a good idea for them. Leaving it in the car is also a bad idea for obvious reasons.
Now regarding security... I actually did an advanced search earlier but gave up early because I was tired of reading the "I think wheel locks are useless" responses on every thread without any evidence or reasoning. As a person who wants evidence with those types of arguments, I checked out YouTube and found out that one of my favorite channels, Project Farm, actually did a video on this.
I will admit, 2:30 in the video is a good case for the "wheel locks are useless" argument. This is what I posted above in the OP. However, immediately after you can see the Gorilla X2 being a LOT more effective. Its free spinning on the outer portion to try to prevent locking pliers, duplicate keys, drill bit extraction, and extractor sockets from being able to work well. Assuming that one is not inconvenienced by the use of a key, the money spent is really the only downside to having them as opposed to regular lug nuts. https://www.gorilla-auto.com/gorilla...otive-71641xbc
Finally, some general remarks regarding security:
Security controls are not always meant to defeat malicious actors indefinitely. Deterring them from putting in the effort required to achieve their goals in the time they have before a response (or believe they have before a response) to their actions is a perfectly valid goal of a security control. As a wheel thief, ask yourself... do you think you can get all 20 my lugs off and the wheels loaded in your truck before I have a loaded firearm pointed at you and/or the police show up? Are you going to take that gamble or are you going to go look for an easier target with a lower risk of those types of responses happening?
No one security control should be considered absolute independently. A locked garage, cameras, an alarm system with tilt sensors, parking in a well-lit and highly trafficked area are other considerations. I urge anyone being critical of any security control as a concept such as wheel locks to look up the concept of "defense in depth".
And yes, before someone inevitably says it here, insurance is nice to have but that is not a security control, that is a mitigation that I'd consider more of "incident response" since the damage already happened. Some of us already pay out the *** for insurance and don't feel like paying more when we make a claim for stolen wheels and they raise our premiums for the rest of our lives because of it, and would rather avoid the incident entirely.
Oh, and another one before someone says it, "don't park your nice car in a bad area" and "don't buy a nice car if you don't have a garage" don't really have a place in a discussion about security controls in my opinion.
Originally Posted by promethius
That is exactly the set I just got from Summit Racing. They are much smaller than the acorn lug nut that I currently have on the car. With my aftermarket wheels the face of the wheel where the lug nuts goes onto is bare metal and the wheel is black, so you can see part of the bare metal, which looks like shxx with the black wheels. If you want them, PM me for a price.
That's odd, they didn't paint/powder coat the ring where the acorn seats? I can envision what you're saying but would like to see a picture if you have one. I had a set of wheels on my 5th gen camaro that the factory huge lug nuts that looked like these on the C8 did not actually clear, which from the product description sounds like the main use for these small diameter ones. I just like having the key and making potential thieves work harder as discussed above. However it seems like the free spinning ones are a much better choice for that. I'm debating if I want to do the set you have/I posted and then replace one per wheel with a free spinning lock... But I know that if you get the opposite lug from the lock off then you can pry the wheel off so maybe I should do two... And then I wonder at that point might as well just do all 5 so I don't have to deal with two separate keys LOL. Let me think on that and if someone else in the thread wants to jump on it then by all means don't hold them for me.
Now regarding security... I actually did an advanced search earlier but gave up early because I was tired of reading the "I think wheel locks are useless" responses on every thread without any evidence or reasoning. As a person who wants evidence with those types of arguments, I checked out YouTube and found out that one of my favorite channels, Project Farm, actually did a video on this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNYIgoah4dk
.....
Fun informative video! His last statement is one I always use, "Yep I lock my house doors" as it deters thieves. Guess all those that say wheel locks are useless don't bother Yep i know a Pro can get in, but still use my house locks!
Have used wheel locks on all my 7 Vettes. Lets a druggy etc look for another easier car! I had one experience and since my profession is in welding was ready to use that method as other approach didn't work.
I usually use McGard (same as GM sells with their Logo.) Can buy on Amazon for ~$30. But for my S-10 Truck with aluminum wheels was at the local truck accessory store ad bought Gorilla puzzle locks. When I was taking a wheel off the puzzle key broke. Tried hammering on a socket and no luck. That is when I thought I'd weld a nut with my MIG welder. But one last try with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Had used a cheap socket first but this time my quality 12 point Craftsmen socket. It worked. Ruined the socket but worked! That was 80 ft-lb lug nut, no way is it that easy with 140 ft-lbs.
BTW for all those people who "steal wheels," my old company now sells a Li-Ion Battery powered welder. Can weld with >25 stick electrodes on one charge. More than enough to do many cars in one night!
My bodyman once showed me how easy it is to remove lock lugs, as he has to quite often with missing keys. He took a large set of vice grips, clamped them on then simply wrapped the grips with a hammer a couple of times....lug loosened. Thieves will be even faster and rougher.
I usually use McGard (same as GM sells with their Logo.) Can buy on Amazon for ~$30. But for my S-10 Truck with aluminum wheels was at the local truck accessory store ad bought Gorilla puzzle locks. When I was taking a wheel off the puzzle key broke. Tried hammering on a socket and no luck. That is when I thought I'd weld a nut with my MIG welder. But one last try with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Had used a cheap socket first but this time my quality 12 point Craftsmen socket. It worked. Ruined the socket but worked! That was 80 ft-lb lug nut, no way is it that easy with 140 ft-lbs.
Wow, that's some bad luck. What were you doing when it broke? Impact gun? Trying to remove I'm assuming? Gorilla includes a sticker/card with every purchase where you can re-order a substitute key if you need to, but it sounds like you were in a hurry. I wouldn't be surprised if every key for the X2 sets was the same, like the spline on the standard ones. So by that logic if a wheel thief has that key from the set, sure, my locks are useless, but it's an unusual lock and the common methods are ineffective as the video shows.
Wow, that's some bad luck. What were you doing when it broke? Impact gun? Trying to remove I'm assuming? Gorilla includes a sticker/card with every purchase where you can re-order a substitute key if you need to, but it sounds like you were in a hurry. I wouldn't be surprised if every key for the X2 sets was the same, like the spline on the standard ones. So by that logic if a wheel thief has that key from the set, sure, my locks are useless, but it's an unusual lock and the common methods are ineffective as the video shows.
Yep, have used Puzzle Key locks for years, never had a problem. But those were McGard. These were Gorilla Locks and nope was using a braker bar with key perpendicular to lug. Looked like a material defect in the raised part of the key to me.
Any yep with McGard always buy a spare key. Had not with Gorilla but was able to get a spare key for the other 3 wheel locks as I had registered! May have just been my luck but after I only buy McGard.
Looking at my E-Ray wheels the Lock, like Lug, is recessed. No way you're getting vice grips into that recess. And at 140 ft-lbs torque would not be easy to pound a socket on the Lock to remove. Takes time and with 4 wheels rather have a Pro find a Vette where folks think locks are foolish! Also, the damage done to the car as they drop on bocks or rocks worse that the wheel cost.
SIDEBAR
Since you mentioned an air wrench, that is what Discount Tire used on my wife's BMW and sheared the key. The car came from the dealer with BMW Locks. The Discount Tire store manager chastised the Tech. He told to me "They are NOT to use an air wrench removing locks." Since the BMW dealership is a mile away he said, "Drive over and ask them to use their master keys. I'll pay for new locks."
Turns out they don't have master keys but have a device that removes the locks. They used for all 4 locks and sold me a new set. I brought the bill to the Discount Store Manager. It was like $150 to remove the 4 old locks and $125 for new wheel locks. He was shocked and said he was going over and ask for the old locks as he would be asked about the cost.
I called the next day to see what he found. He said sure enough they gave him the removed locks.
Perhaps what they used. $429. Can deal with spinning outer shell.
Anyone have aftermarket lug/lock nut sets on their C8? I've used Gorilla sets in the past for other cars such as this:
This would in theory fit the C8's 14x1.5mm thread size, but the Gorilla Automotive website won't confirm when I enter my C8 into their filtering mechanism as the disclaimer suggests. I'm also wondering what else is out there. Looking for something in black, preferably. I like having the key to act as an extension for the socket as well.
Another thought re the desire to have a key act like a lock extension AND using what a McGard Tech called locks for small foreign cars.
1st found a McGard lock and lugs that "Looked Good" and where small diameter and long. BUT McGard did not say were for a Vette yep had the correct cone and thread. Called Teck. He said the rearon they are sold it sets of 4 versus 5 is they are for 4 lug/wheel foreign cars. The Thread and cone angle are correct for a Vette BUT the inside may not be deep enough, and the wheel stud could bottom. Worse thing is one that just bottoms in the lug nut/lock. You apply the required torque BUT force is NOT on the cone seat but rather on the inside of the Lug and Stud.
Also I put a small extension on the lug socket to allow the breaker bar to just clear the fender! Old Pic made just when I got my 2020 C8, it's 140 ft-lbs. Use a breaker bar to remove and torque wrench to install. I used a small extension on the lug socket to have the wrench just clear the fender. Use two hands on the torque wrench for 140 ft-lbs and don't want an extension that is longer than needed.
Had used a plastic inside lug wrench since my C6 for two C7s but in addition to being expensive may not hold up with 140 ft-lbs. Bought this Titan for my C8 and used 3 times already to have flat's fixed on my 7-month-old E-Ray! It like most is just steel that touches the lug nut BUT has a machined rounded area that does not touch the corners of the lugs/Locks. Removed my 2020 C8 wheels a number of times, lugs were fine. Pic was made when folks were defining the socket needed soon after the C8 release (reason the 22.22 mm measurement.) Removing and installing the rear 13" wheels/tires from my E-Ray not easy. To avoid using my legs to raise the heavy wheel back on, made what I call a Tire Slide. When removing the tire drops ~1/4 inch onto the Slide. Also protects the CCB rotors from breaking is rim hits when removing! To install just tilt slightly with wood block and top-wheel-hole slips onto 8-inch-long lug extension. NO LIFTING! This is how I made Tire Slide for ~$10 and scrap wood: http://netwelding.com/E-Ray_Tire_Slide.pdf
McGard makes quality locking lug nuts, any anti-theft device can be defeated but the idea here is to slow the thief down
Yep, best they pick on Vettes were the owner thinks locks are foolish! Perhaps they don't lock their home doors for the same reason, a pro can easily get in!
1st found a McGard lock and lugs that "Looked Good" and where small diameter and long. BUT McGard did not say were for a Vette yep had the correct cone and thread. Called Teck. He said the rearon they are sold it sets of 4 versus 5 is they are for 4 lug/wheel foreign cars.
I assumed the reason locks were sold in sets of 4 is because most people put one per wheel. Which is ineffective if they decide to just get the other 4 lugs off which are not locking and then just pry on the hub.
Originally Posted by JerryU
The Thread and cone angle are correct for a Vette BUT the inside may not be deep enough, and the wheel stud could bottom. Worse thing is one that just bottoms in the lug nut/lock. You apply the required torque BUT force is NOT on the cone seat but rather on the inside of the Lug and Stud.
I'm intending to get something the same length as the factory lugs. In theory, the inside would be the same depth. I feel like you could try to pull/push on the wheel and see if there is any play to determine if the stud bottomed out in the lug.
I'm not surprised that they didn't say it was for a 2020-2025 Corvette, most lug/lock kits are considered universal provided you don't have studs longer than factory so manufacturers won't bother listing what vehicles they are compatible with and then be held to it if there are weird compatibility issues.
The question is, how did YOU figure out that this initial set wouldn't work? Your wording makes it sound like the first set you wanted wouldn't work and so you found what I assume is in the picture below.
Originally Posted by JerryU
Also I put a small extension on the lug socket to allow the breaker bar to just clear the fender! Old Pic made just when I got my 2020 C8, it's 140 ft-lbs. Use a breaker bar to remove and torque wrench to install. I used a small extension on the lug socket to have the wrench just clear the fender. Use two hands on the torque wrench for 140 ft-lbs and don't want an extension that is longer than needed.
Originally Posted by JerryU
What are those long pins sticking through the lug holes? I'm definitely not buying a 22mm just for the factory lugs; I'm throwing them away as soon as I get aftermarket ones lol. Maybe keeping as back ups for a pinch but that's about it. Thanks for the part number though, someone will undoubtedly find that useful.
I have the gorilla “all lock lugs” on all 4 wheels. They can be defeated but they have to defeat 20 lugs to get all the wheels. It’ll take them a while. That’s the best you can hope for. I think I got them on Amazon for about $150.
I assumed the reason locks were sold in sets of 4 is because most people put one per wheel. Which is ineffective if they decide to just get the other 4 lugs off which are not locking and then just pry on the hub.
I'm intending to get something the same length as the factory lugs. In theory, the inside would be the same depth. I feel like you could try to pull/push on the wheel and see if there is any play to determine if the stud bottomed out in the lug.
I'm not surprised that they didn't say it was for a 2020-2025 Corvette, most lug/lock kits are considered universal provided you don't have studs longer than factory so manufacturers won't bother listing what vehicles they are compatible with and then be held to it if there are weird compatibility issues.
The question is, how did YOU figure out that this initial set wouldn't work? Your wording makes it sound like the first set you wanted wouldn't work and so you found what I assume is in the picture below.
No. Problem is you can't tell if it is very close! Some racing bodies, for race classes, required open lugs so you could see the stud! For my street rod I bought custom lug nuts that had a threaded plastic insert at the end. So if you went to a drag race track you could remove the black plastic. See Pic Below.
I found out by checking the McGard website and not seeing them listed called and talked to a Teck. If I wanted to try I would place a piece of clay on the stud, install the lug nut or Lock and see how much if ant the clay compressed!
Pic of lug nuts I bought from Summit when I built my street rod. Note it has a plastic insert on the end removable with an Allen Wrench. If I were to go to the Drag Strip to pass inspection have to remove the plastic so they could see the end of the stud. At least when I built it in 2000 that was a requirement.
I have the gorilla “all lock lugs” on all 4 wheels. They can be defeated but they have to defeat 20 lugs to get all the wheels. It’ll take them a while. That’s the best you can hope for. I think I got them on Amazon for about $150.
Glad I found someone who thinks like me. I'm thinking about doing this. Sucks because I could get a whole set of the spline drive for $40 but as shown in the Project Farm video, they can be defeated with locking pliers or hammering a socket on pretty easily. It's just hard to justify because the car is either in my garage or under a locked cover in the driveway with the wheels not even visible, unless I happen to go on some trip and spend the night at someone's place, or I'm out at a restaurant or movie parked in a parking garage or public lot, when it would be unlikely someone has the ***** to steal my wheels in that window of time but can't be too careful I guess.
I also worry about frequently taking them off and putting them back on. I imagine if you strip the head on one of the locks, you're in for a world of pain. Breaking the key just means you have to order a new one from Gorilla, but stripping a lock is... I don't even know what you'd have to do. I'm always careful with making sure my sockets are on properly and not crooked and I don't use impact to tighten down, I use a torque wrench after spinning with the impact (not at full power), but things happen.
Was thinking about maybe using two locks per wheel opposite one another so the pry method is ineffective for thieves. But then I would have the spline key and the lock key and it would look weird.
[QUOTE=joeyofblades;1608183730]I assumed the reason locks were sold in sets of 4 is because most people put one per wheel. Which is ineffective if they decide to just get the other 4 lugs off which are not locking and then just pry on the hub.
/QUOTE]
You will never be able to "pry on the hub" to remove a wheel that has one lug installed without destroying the wheel. And then what good is it?
Last edited by Walt White Coupe; Oct 4, 2025 at 08:10 AM.
Aftermarket Lug/Lock Nuts
