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My E-Ray is now one year old with just over 4000 miles. So first time for me to lift a C8 rear engine vehicle. I installed ACS jacking pucks a year ago when I got the ER home from NCM. I used two floor jacks to incrementally lift the rear at the rear jacking pucks until it was high enough to put Race Ramps under the rear tires. The motor oil drain plug (15mm hex head) and the oil filter were easily accessed from both rear and sides of the car. Unfortunately the drain plug and the oil filter locations are far enough apart that my 12 Qt drain pan could not span that distance to allow me to loosen and drain the oil filter while draining the oil sump. As previously advertised, a factory gorilla installed the oil filter but I was prepared for that with this cast metal filter cap sized for the PF 64. I highly recommend for DIY especially with the first oil change. Ordered from Amazon.
PS - I must have gotten a good drain as the refill took a full 8 qt sized bottles after reaching 175 F oil temp while checking at idle per the owners Manual procedure.
yes but I chose to delay a year and have both oil change and DCT canister filter changed together around 7000 to 8000 miles by a dealer I trust. It is not my long term intention to ever to use dealers for oil changes I can do myself and not have to worry about the incompetence of dealer Quick Lube monkeys. DIY on all my previous vettes for engine, tranny and diff fluid changes.
My E-Ray is now one year old with just over 4000 miles. So first time for me to lift a C8 rear engine vehicle. I installed ACS jacking pucks a year ago when I got the ER home from NCM. I used two floor jacks to incrementally lift the rear at the rear jacking pucks until it was high enough to put Race Ramps under the rear tires. The motor oil drain plug (15mm hex head) and the oil filter were easily accessed from both rear and sides of the car. Unfortunately the drain plug and the oil filter locations are far enough apart that my 12 Qt drain pan could not span that distance to allow me to loosen and drain the oil filter while draining the oil sump. As previously advertised, a factory gorilla installed the oil filter but I was prepared for that with this cast metal filter cap sized for the PF 64. I highly recommend for DIY especially with the first oil change. Ordered from Amazon.
Isn't the idea of ramps to be able to drive onto them rather than use jacks to lift vehicle and then lower onto ramps?
Isn't the idea of ramps to be able to drive onto them rather than use jacks to lift vehicle and then lower onto ramps?
I drove a Honda Accord auto over the top of one once. So I surely did not trust myself afterward with the stick shift c5, c6 and c7 Z cars. I view support with the ramps under wheels to be safer than jack stands and lifting rather than driving up ramps with no one to spot me to be a safer approach. Your results may vary.
Isn't the idea of ramps to be able to drive onto them rather than use jacks to lift vehicle and then lower onto ramps?
With my C5, C6 and C7 vettes, I would lift the entire front end with custom built spreader beams after first driving onto low rise wooden ramps to gain some front clearance for the 3 ton floor jack. Race Ramps then placed under front wheels. Then lift entire rear end and use jack stands as a secondary level of safety in the rear. That got me the elevation to do oil changes on those cars and the easy ability to change the drain pan slope from the rear jack. The C8 does not lend itself to lifting in that manner so hence I used two jacks to lift from each side incrementally.
FWIW, I put 8 quarts in my Stingray after letting it drain for an hour. That got me back to the same level as it was from the factory, about 2/3 of the way to the full line.
FWIW, I put 8 quarts in my Stingray after letting it drain for an hour. That got me back to the same level as it was from the factory, about 2/3 of the way to the full line.
Even after draining for an hour, there is a measurable amount of oil remaining. When my son and I change the oil, we put in 7 quarts. Then I drive home for 45 miles and upon arrival check the oil level. Add 1/2 quart to the full line.
Last edited by Bob Paris; Dec 28, 2025 at 01:26 PM.
My E-Ray is now one year old with just over 4000 miles. So first time for me to lift a C8 rear engine vehicle. I installed ACS jacking pucks a year ago when I got the ER home from NCM. I used two floor jacks to incrementally lift the rear at the rear jacking pucks until it was high enough to put Race Ramps under the rear tires. The motor oil drain plug (15mm hex head) and the oil filter were easily accessed from both rear and sides of the car. Unfortunately the drain plug and the oil filter locations are far enough apart that my 12 Qt drain pan could not span that distance to allow me to loosen and drain the oil filter while draining the oil sump. As previously advertised, a factory gorilla installed the oil filter but I was prepared for that with this cast metal filter cap sized for the PF 64. I highly recommend for DIY especially with the first oil change. Ordered from Amazon.
PS - I must have gotten a good drain as the refill took a full 8 qt sized bottles after reaching 175 F oil temp while checking at idle per the owners Manual procedure.
Good writeup. BUT although the metal socket wrench that fit the PF 64 worked for you, I have had the thin metal filter can round the corners and NOT loosen the filter! For those I used various wrenched BUT most require room on the sides and there is no room for thru the C8 access holes.
BTW, those who question the need and don't buy before you start your 1st C8 Filter change consider: With car in the air and your socket wrench rounds or distorts the thin metal filter shell outside you may have to: 1) remove the aluminum aero/shear plate and then use a method I have had to use some years ago, 2) Pound a long screwdriver thru the filter and use it to turn and unscrew the filter. Messy!
Over 70+ years changing oil and filter (started helping my Dad) I have accumulated many filter wrenches. Most are on my pegboard garage wall. Removed for this Pic! I have one I would recommend that is similar to what the Tech at the Dealer uses. I did all my own oil changes on my Vettes up to my two C7 dry sumps. Didn't trust the dealer. Found a great tech at a small Chevy dealer who did my Courtesy Delivery for my 2020 C8 and E-Ray. BUT still do the change on my street rod!
Had tried race ramps with my C6. One always moved. I gave them to someone who lifts on grass! I far prefer two jacks and wheel stanchions. Made them for my C6 and used for my two C8s. Also used to install side skirts etc. For the C8 can make just like I did from a 8x2, 12 foot long wood board and some plywood.
I still have the 12 inch high commercial wheel stanchions I used when building my street rod when I retired in 2000. Require two step jacking that was fine when I had the SR jacked up for over a month when installing exhaust, wiring, fuel lines etc. Was able to use a creeper. BUT for changing C8 oil and filter 8" wheel stanchions should work fine.
Good writeup. BUT although the metal socket wrench that fit the PF 64 worked for you, I have had the thin metal filter can round the corners and NOT loosen the filter! For those I used various wrenched BUT most require room on the sides and there is no room for thru the C8 access holes.
BTW, those who question the need and don't buy before you start your 1st C8 Filter change consider: With car in the air and your socket wrench rounds or distorts the thin metal filter shell outside you may have to: 1) remove the aluminum aero/shear plate and then use a method I have had to use some years ago, 2) Pound a long screwdriver thru the filter and use it to turn and unscrew the filter. Messy!
Over 70+ years changing oil and filter (started helping my Dad) I have accumulated many filter wrenches. Most are on my pegboard garage wall. Removed for this Pic! I have one I would recommend that is similar to what the Tech at the Dealer uses. I did all my own oil changes on my Vettes up to my two C7 dry sumps. Didn't trust the dealer. Found a great tech at a small Chevy dealer who did my Courtesy Delivery for my 2020 C8 and E-Ray. BUT still do the change on my street rod!
Had tried race ramps with my C6. One always moved. I gave them to someone who lifts on grass! I far prefer two jacks and wheel stanchions. Made them for my C6 and used for my two C8s. Also used to install side skirts etc. For the C8 can make just like I did from a 8x2, 12 foot long wood board and some plywood.
I still have the 12 inch high commercial wheel stanchions I used when building my street rod when I retired in 2000. Require two step jacking that was fine when I had the SR jacked up for over a month when installing exhaust, wiring, fuel lines etc. Was able to use a creeper. BUT for changing C8 oil and filter 8" wheel stanchions should work fine.
My original post was intended to serve as a PSA regarding filter wrenches to get those over-torqued factory and shop tech installed filters off. The thread is finally gone in that direction.
Thanks, just ordered one. The pain is real when someone cranks down the filter and you try to remove it with one of those other wrenches. I had to take a heat gun once to one to get it loose.
First LT2 Oil Change DIY
