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Review: Switching from Chamois to Drying Towels forum recommended
The Backstory: I’ve always used real or synthetic chamois, but they perform poorly in cool weather. Today, it finally hit 50°F in Indiana, so I gave the car a bath to test a new method.
The Results: I tried a specific microfiber drying towel and was honestly surprised: amazon.com/dp/B0DPZTLVHL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_t itle
Zero Water Spots: Even with Indiana's notoriously hard water, the finish was perfect.
Clear Glass: The windows came out looking great.
Efficiency: I managed to dry the entire car using just one towel.
Pro-Tip for Laundry: Next time, I’ll use two towels. By splitting the water weight between them, it will help keep the washing machine balanced during the spin cycle! Quick Note: The "hard water" is a huge deal because the minerals in Indiana water (calcium and magnesium) usually leave white spots if the car isn't dried instantly.
We all have our favorites. Adams, Griots, Chemical Guys, The Rag Company, are ones I use. Chemical Guys and Griots PFM being my primaries.
I was in your camp, using only genuine chamois for car drying, but having to soak them and wring them to get them soft and the problem of getting into the tighter places had me looking for a better solution. Then they invented MICROFIBRE!
Review: Switching from Chamois to Drying Towels forum recommended
The Backstory: I’ve always used real or synthetic chamois, but they perform poorly in cool weather. Today, it finally hit 50°F in Indiana, so I gave the car a bath to test a new method.
The Results: I tried a specific microfiber drying towel and was honestly surprised: amazon.com/dp/B0DPZTLVHL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_t itle
Zero Water Spots: Even with Indiana's notoriously hard water, the finish was perfect.
Clear Glass: The windows came out looking great.
Efficiency: I managed to dry the entire car using just one towel.
Pro-Tip for Laundry: Next time, I’ll use two towels. By splitting the water weight between them, it will help keep the washing machine balanced during the spin cycle! Quick Note: The "hard water" is a huge deal because the minerals in Indiana water (calcium and magnesium) usually leave white spots if the car isn't dried instantly.
Just a different way, but I started with a pack (15? 18?) of smaller microfiber towels, 12"x15". Since I'm washing the car by hand in sections (pressure spray with solution, wipe with wet sponge, dry with towel, repeat on next section), moving to a new towel is pretty natural. I have a large microfiber that came with the wash kit I bought with the special sponge and no-rinse washing liquid, but it was easier handling to use the small ones and switch to a fresh one whenever I needed to, which is usual one per section, but might be two if I do a larger section because the weather is conducive to it.
The point is that it's no more work to wash a dozen microfiber hand towels than it is to wash one large one. They go in the wash cycle, cold water, then into the dryer on minimal heat or air fluff, done. So, whichever you prefer to work with. 🙂
I air dried my ceramic coated '21 with an Adams blower then wiped the door pockets with a waffle weave towel. Never had to put a towel on the carbon flash nacelles and they looked like factory new when I sold it last fall. Air dryer got rid of the nagging drips from window trim and mirrors as well and didn't have to worry about swirl marks either. On the list for a '27 GS, so will ceramic coat this one and use air blowing approach on this one too. I am a fan of the waffle weave towels, they do hold a lot of water, and like a chamois, you can wring it out and go again if needed (I do so with my truck).
The point is that it's no more work to wash a dozen microfiber hand towels than it is to wash one large one.
And to me it is just as easy to wash 3 large ones as just one. I like to use one as a quick first pass to get rid of the lakes and ponds and two more for the final pass. Initially I got **** about washing and drying them the way Griot's said to but now I just throw them in with the blue jeans and tidy whiteys and stuff, I can't tell any difference and they seem to be holding up well.
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I think I will have to give the drying towels a try. I currently use an Absorber to get the water off and then follow up with some Adam’s Detail Spray and a microfiber towel. Has worked well, but perhaps I can cut down on the time required for a detail job.
I do a thee towel approach, especially on my trucks. On my trucks, the first towel (CG Woolly Mammoth) I use for everything except the bottom 1/4 of the truck/rockers, the roof, and the door jams. I use the second towel (CG Woolly Mammoth) for the bottom 1/4 of the truck including the rockers and the roof and the third towel (CG Workhorse) I use to wipe down the door jams.
I air dried my ceramic coated '21 with an Adams blower then wiped the door pockets with a waffle weave towel. Never had to put a towel on the carbon flash nacelles and they looked like factory new when I sold it last fall. Air dryer got rid of the nagging drips from window trim and mirrors as well and didn't have to worry about swirl marks either. On the list for a '27 GS, so will ceramic coat this one and use air blowing approach on this one too. I am a fan of the waffle weave towels, they do hold a lot of water, and like a chamois, you can wring it out and go again if needed (I do so with my truck).
Same for me. My car is ceramic coated, so drying is pretty easy. I have a handheld, battery-operated air dryer. I also have the old plug-in Adams handheld air dryer. In my opinion, the Adams dryer is better at getting air out of all the crevices, but only because it has a very narrow nozzle.
I get all the big water spots off, spray some ceramic detail spray on it, and wipe it down with a waffle-weave towel.
I don’t do this anymore, but on my old Camaro (which wasn’t ceramic coated), I could almost “dry” it just by using water from the hose with no nozzle. Then I would spray detail spray on it for a final wipe-down.
Same for me. My car is ceramic coated, so drying is pretty easy. I have a handheld, battery-operated air dryer. I also have the old plug-in Adams handheld air dryer. In my opinion, the Adams dryer is better at getting air out of all the crevices, but only because it has a very narrow nozzle.
I get all the big water spots off, spray some ceramic detail spray on it, and wipe it down with a waffle-weave towel.
I don’t do this anymore, but on my old Camaro (which wasn’t ceramic coated), I could almost “dry” it just by using water from the hose with no nozzle. Then I would spray detail spray on it for a final wipe-down.
good point..I should have added that i also do the same...It hit the car with my backpack leaf blower first and follow up with the towels...
California Water Blade to get off the big stuff and then one big gray Griot's MF towel to finish. I couldn't believe how great the MF was compared to any towel or chamois I had ever used. Nice and dry, but if the sun starts to make spots before I get to a section, there is enough moisture in the towel to remove the spots and dry everything.
Air blower IMO is best for drying.
Yes, I do agree, specialty drying towel over a chamois for another win.
My first job was as a detail at dealerships. Please, please, please, touch your car as infrequently as possible.
A leaf blower, specialty car drying tool, or even a quick drive is best for most washes. Same for the wash. I normally do not touch the paint. I probably only "touch" the paint twice a year. I do have SFM which is super easy to keep clean unlike a black car.
I bought a short attachment for my leaf blower and with ceramic coat it gets almost all the water off. Use micro fiber to get the rest and a couple more for the wheels,door jams and engine bay. I also use a ceramic maintenance spay from the manufacturer every 4 or 5 washes.
California Water Blade to get off the big stuff and then one big gray Griot's MF towel to finish. I couldn't believe how great the MF was compared to any towel or chamois I had ever used. Nice and dry, but if the sun starts to make spots before I get to a section, there is enough moisture in the towel to remove the spots and dry everything.
Ewww…I would never use a water blade. Ouch. Maybe on a cheaper, older car.
You may want to consider a water deionizer system for the final rinse. 👍
Yes, I bought one. I used it all last summer. It did help a some but not enough for me to replace it after I broke the end off of it. It was the type that screwed on the the end of the faucet.
My first job was as a detail at dealerships. Please, please, please, touch your car as infrequently as possible.
A leaf blower, specialty car drying tool, or even a quick drive is best for most washes. Same for the wash. I normally do not touch the paint. I probably only "touch" the paint twice a year. I do have SFM which is super easy to keep clean unlike a black car.
No doubt you are correct in saying, "touch it as little as possible" but that is just not me. I get enjoyment waxing and buffing my car. Actually I might wax it twice and never drive it. Some days I might just do wheels and other days just the interior, engine and so on. It's just how I enjoy my car.
I have a couple dozen of the 12x12 ish ones of different brands that work pretty well on my CC e . Ironic i bought what i thought was a 4 pack of them but it was a single 35x24 .....they work great and i just bought another . One use then they go into the all in one washer dryer normal setting but no fabric softener and i take out before completely dry . I too was impressed how well they work but i do use a leaf blower to get 75 % of the water off first
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