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@X25 for the front endlinks, you can also grind down the flat spacer part on the conical spacers, could get about 1/2" more clearance and still have full rotation of endlink. Im sure you could do cleaner than I did but I only had a handheld grinder on hand. I was able to make the endlinks work with shock in other orientation and the spring has less room to work with compared to when inverted with shock body down at the bottom.
Picture of bolt shows where I started grinding one spacer compared to an untouched one and then the other picture shows install. I could have ground both evenly and left a bit more material on one closer to bolt head.
What is the part number for that new neck? On another note, would you have tried the DSC controller on the stock mag ride if it were available, before going to coil-overs?
Any idea why the DSC shock controller hasn’t been released for the C8?
They mentioned some kind of encryption in communications as the culprit. It looks like they are finally releasing it, though, but it will be a piggy back system as far as I understand.
Yes, I finally got ot test it out last weekend, and it seems to work well! I was not worried about the rear end movements during my shakedown. That said, I still need to find the right settings for best lap times, and I want to wait on having a final verdict until then, since behavior at limits is of utmost importance.
Here's a short test video from the day (my best lap is 2:12 with C7 Z, and 2:15 with C8 Z for now):
I intend to go back there and start working on the suspension settings (especially high speed rebound) to see what I can do.
My alignment:
Camber / Caster / Toe
-3 / +8.1 / 0 Front
-2.6 / 0 / 0.05 Rear
I asked for -2.5 rear camber, but for whatever reason, the technician settled at -2.6 at the rears.
I'm hoping to visit the track again next week or so;I'm hoping to post much better lap times. We'll see!
In other (small) news, I also installed L-track covers right where the tires are. You can easily see where the tires rest by the mark they leave on the floor.
These 40 cm strips don't let the L-track dent into the tire thread.
... and it works well; yay!
In other other news, now I have 4 sets of 18"/18"wheels!!!! I'm planning to sell my BC Forged wheels (pictured above) to make up some space in the garage...
@X25 for the front endlinks, you can also grind down the flat spacer part on the conical spacers, could get about 1/2" more clearance and still have full rotation of endlink. Im sure you could do cleaner than I did but I only had a handheld grinder on hand. I was able to make the endlinks work with shock in other orientation and the spring has less room to work with compared to when inverted with shock body down at the bottom.
Picture of bolt shows where I started grinding one spacer compared to an untouched one and then the other picture shows install. I could have ground both evenly and left a bit more material on one closer to bolt head.
Mike, this is not a bad idea, and makes me think I could just use washers to make that spacing it needs to articulate, and I'd not even need that expanding diameter on that spacer. Anyway, I'll look into this next time I'm checking on heights; thanks for the suggestion!
I'm hoping to "test and tune" later this week. I'll practice with my oldest set (R7 295 / 345s with 17 heat cycles and ~131 laps) with the disappointing Trofeo Track Race tires as backup if they don't last whole day, on day 1. I plan to start the second day with the newest tires (R8 315 / 345s).
My auto calculated # of laps and heat cycles on my current sets (well set 1 actually no longer exists). R7s drop off after first 5-8 heat cycles, so they'll not be as fast as they used to be. They should also cord, soon.
I'm just IN LOVE with these Hofmann Type 380 wheel weights. They are more heat resistant than regular wheel weights, and they LEAVE NOTHING when they're removed. Cleaning up the residue of regular wheel weights is a huge hassle, not to mention all the hassle of them moving around when they overheat at the track. Also observe the metal bridges between the weights. They stay 'together' on the wheel..
Modern trucks are also amazing in terms of rear space. I was able to put a third set of wheels into the cab (besides the one mounted on the car and another set in the truck bed).
I will switch to these new tires after experimenting on the older tires on day 1 with various suspension settings and/or lines at the track. This way, hopefully the laps wouold be more worth it to use the new set.
Gonna get some of those wheel weights! My motorcycle wheels are covered in residue and I need to finally clean them off. And then give these to the tire guy at the track when I do track tire swaps!
Gonna get some of those wheel weights! My motorcycle wheels are covered in residue and I need to finally clean them off. And then give these to the tire guy at the track when I do track tire swaps!
In other news, I finally got the safety (fuel filler neck) recall certified at my local small dealer! They were kind enough to get it done (certified) while my car was on the trailer (on my way to track). The service manager said this is the first time ever that they've serviced a car while it's on a trailer : P
I got them from All Tire Supply as I have gotten some stuff from them before. Comes out about the same as Phil's but their shipping is cheaper and I got a few other things I needed at the same time.
How many of those weight strips does one need to balance 4 wheels? Want to bring some in to discount tire when mounting my RE-71RZ.
Depending on how imbalanced your tires are, you might need up to 10-12 weights per tire (especially on Hoosiers). Every strip has 12, so 4-5 strips should be more than sufficient for a set.
The advantage of stiffer bushings is less deflection under heavy loads and dynamic transitions. When deflection occurs, your alignment changes. That change can cause reduced traction, extra tire wear, even possibly less/loss of control.
I have a z51 with Z06 lower control arms and AMT monoball bushings and camber kit. Trade off is NVH is transmitted more. If Delrin bushings were available I might have tried those first.
The lower front control arm is not monoball because they reported power steering was unhappy with amount of vibrations it received.
End result was for track, more consistent tire wear, more control, more safety, easier to recover at thresholds. In fact, I don't think I've had a spin out since I made the change.
For street only, I would expect slightly better steering response from stiffer bushings. So certainly could replace front lower control arms with Z06, but wouldn't bother with the others (because basically the same). NOTE: alignment would be required if swapping.
One addition: Actually, I compared all Z51 and Z06 control arms, and both front and rear LCAs looked like they had a different bushing than Z51s. The UCAs looked the same to me.
One addition: Actually, I compared all Z51 and Z06 control arms, and both front and rear LCAs looked like they had a different bushing than Z51s. The UCAs looked the same to me.
Excellent point! I probably didn't notice as going to monoball in rear lower control arms. So would it be your advice to replace both front + rear lower control arms, if doing any?
Interesting, thank you both. My car is dual duty street/track so this may be a worthwhile upgrade over the Z51 arms. Did you both find the car to have better control / be less edgy with the Z06 arms?
